ziggaboogi Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 SUCCESS! So it turns out that after everything it was in fact the ICs, it turns out when I did my janky install I managed to make it somehow miss the one trace that controlled the Up button group. So now I got a set of new chips, installed it properly and left it connected for over two hours and it still works great on AvP, Zool 2 and hoverstrike! So for any future reference, try replacing the 74HC04 and 74HC14 chips if you have weird controller behavior like I did. Total cost of the project: $30 for controller and parts, several hours, part of my dignity. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Moss Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 The IC's have the pins bent. What you see is the bottom of the chips not the top. Well spotted than man. SUCCESS! So it turns out that after everything it was in fact the ICs, it turns out when I did my janky install I managed to make it somehow miss the one trace that controlled the Up button group. So now I got a set of new chips, installed it properly and left it connected for over two hours and it still works great on AvP, Zool 2 and hoverstrike! So for any future reference, try replacing the 74HC04 and 74HC14 chips if you have weird controller behavior like I did. Total cost of the project: $30 for controller and parts, several hours, part of my dignity. Glad to see you got it working, although what possessed you to fit the IC's on the wrong side of PCB in the first place? That makes soldering more difficult for the inexperienced potentially giving rise to bad joints fitting the IC's being the wrong way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziggaboogi Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 It was mostly a product of laziness and convenience. I didn't realize the solder wick I had was really poor quality which did not help at all when trying to remove the original chips. Because of that I just opted to cut off the original chips, bend the pins on the replacements and install from the bottom. You can imagine my surprise when somehow I managed to recreate the exact same symptoms of the up/*/0/# buttons not working, which caused me to rule out the initial chip installation as the cause. Anyways, I went out and got proper wick and a second set of replacement chips, got all the first replacement chips and the original pins removed, installed the new chips, reconnected any traces that came off during the process, and here we are with a working pro controller! So like my old boss always said "the lazy one always has to work twice." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignGuy81 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Glad you got the pro working. The other you mentioned where you have to press down on the end of the cord is probably going to need a new cord with the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziggaboogi Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Yeah the other one most likely needs a new cord. I'll get around to it but it's not as urgent seeing as I'd have to convince a second person to actually play the jag just to need it lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ave1 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 I have this exact problem with my ProController. Up doesn't work. I'll have to see if the keypad keys are working... My issue may be identical to the one your controller had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ave1 Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 (edited) I checked and it looks like my controller problem is definitely 100% identical to your's with the bottom keys on the numpad not functioning... I know what to do What is the best source for getting these two ICs? Edited June 22, 2018 by ave1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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