HOME AUTOMATION Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 "This @&#$!&% Keyboard" ...obviously meant affectionately! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 "This @$!&% Keyboard" ...obviously meant affectionately!Yeah trying to get Soarer's converter to work with this Decision Data C1401A Bon of a Sitch. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 1 hour ago, HOME AUTOMATION said: "This @&#$!&% Keyboard" ...obviously meant affectionately! LOL oh yes. My first foray into older keyboard conversion ended with total frustration. (Comfort Keyboard Systems) .. 3 piece keyboard interchangeable sections. modular positioning. Really interesting! Couldn't get the darn thing to work at all ... spent 3 months on it. Finally gave up ... then I got this: Decision Data 120+ keyboard.... also 6p6c rj25? Model C1401A Trying to get Soarer's Converter to work with it (Pro Micro Atmel "MEGA32U4") I think I got it right this time. it says it is programmed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamchevy Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 I suppose it depends on whom you are loving. ...leeWhoops, I meant living in a Hotel. But yeah it does depend! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) -- ♫♪ Since I have a hammer ♪♫ -- ------ ♫♪ I did some hammering this morning! ♪♫ -- (Who else on here gets to claim that they took a hammer to their PEB, and that it was a GOOD thing? LOL) The deformation was more extreme than I initially thought too. The divider inside that covers the PSU was bend a good 15 degrees in one location, and the screw mount leg was torqued about 20 degrees. It took pretty extensive hammering to get it back "this nice". Now instead of crushed in in the corner, and taco-ed in the back, it is merely rippled and scuffed. The back actually looks correct now. The cards appear to have survived, but I have not done a power on test yet. The plastic part of the top is pretty damaged; Not sure if I can reasonably fix it. I will probably have to manufacture a replacement part. Edited January 20, 2020 by wierd_w 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) Am terribly sorry that it had to come to that... it looks damn nice though! Wait.... that's a Carpenter's reference.... (to himself : "how did I know that?") Edited January 20, 2020 by Mehridian Sanders 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 The sad part, is that the post office says that I have to file online, and that *I* have to fill out the damage claim form. The DHL form, clearly says it is the post office that is supposed to fill it out. Gotta love those bureaucratic catch-22s. Sure, here's a form that can't be filled out. (rolls eyes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 The sad part, is that the post office says that I have to file online, and that *I* have to fill out the damage claim form. The DHL form, clearly says it is the post office that is supposed to fill it out. Gotta love those bureaucratic catch-22s. Sure, here's a form that can't be filled out. (rolls eyes)The sad part the last time I did that was they told me I have to give them the item to get compensated for the damageSent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Set that P-Box up as a tower case and you'll never notice the damage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 I have measured the plastic top part, and have created a quick and dirty CAD model. Segmented it into 8 sections. Looks like the hole pattern will work for me without issues. Gonna start printing soon. Material will be black PLA. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 5 hours ago, wierd_w said: I have measured the plastic top part, and have created a quick and dirty CAD model. Segmented it into 8 sections. Looks like the hole pattern will work for me without issues. Gonna start printing soon. Material will be black PLA. Is there any chance your completed design could be added to the 3D Printer designs << HERE >>? You know, what I (and a few others) would REALLY like to see? A 3D printed piece that looks like the top of the PEB... but for the bottom. Some of us use the P-Box in a tower arrangement and having both sides match (as much as possible) would be fantastic!! ? Once all the pieces are assembled, a guy could apply some color matching spray paint and then attach it for a more aesthetically pleasing P-Box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, --- Ω --- said: Is there any chance your completed design could be added to the 3D Printer designs << HERE >>? You know, what I (and a few others) would REALLY like to see? A 3D printed piece that looks like the top of the PEB... but for the bottom. Some of us use the P-Box in a tower arrangement and having both sides match (as much as possible) would be fantastic!! ? Once all the pieces are assembled, a guy could apply some color matching spray paint and then attach it for a more aesthetically pleasing P-Box. My ghetto chinese knockoff i3 is hardly the fastest hunk of junk in the galaxy you know. Still printing the first of the 8 sections. Since I intend to use the attachment point screw holes to hold it down (and each section conveniently has at least 3 holes already!) I did not add any tabs or anything. It's just 8 rectangular(ish) slabs that sit next to each other, that then form a complete PEB top. Like I said, quick and dirty. The bottom will be... Hmm... You know some of the screws that hold the PEB together are on the bottom, right? The only real way to accomplish that is gonna be to abuse some of the thru holes with longer screws, which I don't think I have. OK, you want STL files for the quick and dirty model? Here they are. First up-- If somebody happens to have a great big 3D printer that can do this monolithically... monolithic.7z and here it is divided into the 8 tab-less sections (For people with more consumer grade printers) PEB TOP sectional.7z AND-- If somebody wants the CAD data... PebTop.stp Edited January 21, 2020 by wierd_w 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 For the bottom: Since it's essentially a veneer, so what about Velcro Command Strips? 1) They will be forgiving it not placed exactly correct. 2) They can be removed easily without damaging the P-Box. 3) You'll not be able to see the fasteners. 4) They are inexpensive. 5) It could be accomplished by anyone with the pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 I will have to modify the data a bit to make a back section like that. (For starters, the "step" in it needs to be removed-- AND it has to be mirrored after that so it matches...) Velcro is not my first choice. Neither is double-stick tape. The 8 thru holes that hold down the card slot backplane (and alignment grid) could have longer machine screws put through, that could then reach into the sections on the back. A modified plastic skid-plate for the floppy bay that has recesses (for screws to go the OTHER way through) could give a few more. I need to think about it more to come up with other clever holding that could be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrhodes Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Sometimes i wonder, if the zombie apocalypse happens, should i just hang out at my work place? Surely does not seem to be any brains there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 I know the feeling, but my workplace would probably be real bad to try that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 9 hours ago, wierd_w said: I will have to modify the data a bit to make a back section like that. (For starters, the "step" in it needs to be removed-- AND it has to be mirrored after that so it matches...) Velcro is not my first choice. Neither is double-stick tape. The 8 thru holes that hold down the card slot backplane (and alignment grid) could have longer machine screws put through, that could then reach into the sections on the back. A modified plastic skid-plate for the floppy bay that has recesses (for screws to go the OTHER way through) could give a few more. I need to think about it more to come up with other clever holding that could be done I dunno, removing those rubber feet and replacing it Velco strips to hold the panels seems like it would do a fairly decent job. It would sure look more professional than a piece of silver poster board cut out to fit. I'm also thinking on the top and bottom pieces where it extends out from the back could be printed a little thicker with grooves for added support. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 I need to make revisions. (this is kinda why I typically hold off on posting quick and dirty models.) Issues: 1) The retention spring tabs in the back have no allowance for operation in existing model(s). 2) the holes, while in the correct locations, lack sufficient depth to give good grip in any place except the thick ledge in the back. Proposed solutions: 1) Make cutout notches in impacted areas 2) Replace hole pattern with "Peg" pattern, use half-moon clips on interior side to retain mechanically, except the holes in the thick ledge, which work fine. The holes in the metal portion of the PEB top are 7mm across. I will produce 6mm diameter pegs, which should be plenty stout at the slicer settings I am using. I will make them tall enough to slip a 3D printed half-moon clip (2mm thick minimum) through a notch in their diameter, and still have enough "beef" to have good mechanical holding. The metal is .063" thick. I can model in a radiused reduction in the diameter to 5mm, that is 2mm tall to facilitate this. I will then reprint the corner piece I printed today with the changes, and test fitting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 You know what would be PERFECT for the bottom of the P-Box? One gigantic refrigerator type magnet of a photo of the top of the P-Box! I wonder where you could get something like that made and for how much? Possibly a place that makes magnetic signs for vehicles. Hmmm, I think I'll look into this some more. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) Cafe Press? Nope. Not big enough. I will see if I can get magnet sheet by the roll. (That, plus rolled shiny sticker paper, would let me make such things, since I happen to have *dun tish* a large format printer) Edited January 22, 2020 by wierd_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 7 minutes ago, wierd_w said: Cafe Press? Possibly. << THIS PLACE >> at first glance looks like a possibility too. The obviously have big enough sizes, you can upload a photo, and they even do PayPal. Their designs have "rounded corners" so one might need to order a little larger and trim it down to fit the P-Box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 1 minute ago, --- Ω --- said: Possibly. << THIS PLACE >> at first glance looks like a possibility too. The obviously have big enough sizes, you can upload a photo, and they even do PayPal. Maybe.. PEB top is ~ 11" x 17.375" Would need trimming at the closest mat size at 12" x 18" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) But now that I think about it.. Magnet is a pretty slick idea for holding. I could print little round recesses for standard disc size neodymium magnets. Say, these little monsters. 4 per section in the corners. Held in with epoxy. Wait... Floppies + neodym == bad idea. Edited January 22, 2020 by wierd_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+arcadeshopper Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Magnets and disks and crts oh mySent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) Nothing some additional paramagnetic shielding tape could not overcome, but that would just increase installation complexity and unit cost. Nope, not suitable for neodym. Edited January 22, 2020 by wierd_w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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