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Omega-TI

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Off-topic PC question.

 

My PC got flaky, and finally would not boot Win10 from SSD.  My old Win7 hard drive (HD) is still there.  Recently, Win10 kept asking for repair media, so I left the USB install media connected. But that no longer helps.

 

Spent hours checking inside the PC, fiddling with BIOS...  It is 10 years old but was top-of-line then.  I did not yet replace the CMOS battery.

 

I was able to boot to Win7 by removing the SSD and original USB install media.   What I think was going on: only the HD had working boot loader code.

 

I made a fresh USB Win10 installer, and it booted to my Win10 desktop. It seems to have repaired something.  

 

I'm ignorant about PC boot loaders.  How I make sure that my SSD has what it needs to boot?  I want to keep the Win7 HD to use sometimes (legacy apps). 
 

 

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SSDs have a read write expense life. Just like a USB thumb drive. So I'm thinking it might be that, but again, try everything. I just had a thumb drive with a similar problem, but it's just an access issue for me, as I can read and write to it, it just can't boot an is install anymore... switched USB thumb drive and I'm good again..

https://ssd-life.com/

 

Edited by GDMike
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50 minutes ago, FarmerPotato said:

Yeah, I tossed the first USB stick. It has been heavily used for 10 years. 
 

the SSD is practically new Samsung 870 5 year warranty. I mounted it on my Macbook and looked through it, it seems fine, but I don’t know what to look for. 
 

 

I think to go to their website and look for a program that can diagnose that model. There's probably a look up by serial for warranty info too 

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3 hours ago, GDMike said:

I think to go to their website and look for a program that can diagnose that model. There's probably a look up by serial for warranty info too 

The Samsung SSD Magician can run diagnostics on the drive, update firmware, handle over-provisioning, &c.

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I would see about using some of the various boot catalog utilities on the offending drive.

 

After XP, Microsoft switched away from NTLDR based booting, to a more complicated and byzantine "boot catalog" based boot loader.  This method requires much more data to be available, and that data is stored in that special OS partition that rides alongside the primary system volume.

 

For a rundown, this is how win7 boots.

https://social.technet.microsoft.com/wiki/contents/articles/11341.windows-7-the-boot-process-explained.aspx

 

The name Microsoft uses for this boot catalog is "BCD". Or, Boot Configuration Data. The tool that is provided by MS is called BCDEdit

https://southjerseytechies.net/blog/modifying-the-windows-7-boot-loader-with-the-boot-configuration-data-editor-tool/

 

There are various GUI tools that offer automation.  Since this process is very.... Fragile... and very easy to screw up with fiddling... I would recommend using an automated tool, rather than trying to prod at it manually with BCDEdit.

 

Hilariously, this is what "Startup repair wizard" does (or tries to do).  However, because MS are such paranoid cranks, they wont/dont allow you to just fix a horked up BCD entry for an OS install from the recovery media. If the recovery media thinks it is not a valid windows installation for some reason, it wont touch it. 

 

That's where the 3rd party utilities come into play, as they can identify installed versions of windows that lack suitable BCD entries in the hidden system partition, and then create them for you. (allowing them to boot.)

 

 

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I'd rather be working on SNP today, and yesterday. But instead, I've been working on a 2005 Toyota Camry. Changing power steering pump, and anything else in the way. 

It's been a very hectic week, as only yesterday was able to remove the pump. Will even miss work this weekend because of the crappy way they put this car together. 

Last year I pulled the serpentine belt, harmonic balancer, water pump, alternator all within 30 minutes on a 1990 Oldsmobile trofeo. But here I'm still working on installing the new PS pump on this Toyota after a week Long ordeal, with 1 support bolt on the new pump installed yesterday after a week of trying to remove it.

Work continuing today, trying to thread the lower Mount bolt, once I do that it'll be downhill.

 

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I've finally got my pump installed. Whooohoo.

Waiting on a $150 motor mount and a $130 tensioner for the serpentine belt. How ignorant a high price for crap. 

But my son has to have his car running.

Of course I was trying to figure out how to inject something that can be as strong as the rubber that eroded from that motor mount, and glue it back together. But I've got nothing that can replace the rubber in the dog bone.

And the tensioner is just a 4" gas filled shock absorber, strut or whatever you call it. That's how Toyota does it. And this old one is just locked up. Can't have just an ordinary tensioner that is spring loaded anymore, it's gotta be this crap.

I can't wait to get far away from Toyota and back to my Oldsmobile again and programming SNP.

Edited by GDMike
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13 hours ago, RickyDean said:

Polyurethane

I think it has to be pliable. Wouldn't that just break upon movement, that's Why it's filled with rubber? Doesn't matter now, I couldn't fill it anyway. I did find one at O'Reilly's for$157 or something like that, maybe it was$137...I didn't buy it yet. It's an easy component to replace, I'm just trying to get the car running first then we'll see.

I finished the pump installation, I've got to put the new tensioner on today, belt add fluid to the reservoir and the motor mount (temporary), and fire it up. Hope no leaks, I did end up breaking the pressure switch yesterday after being careful not to during removal. Originaly i was able to remove it, put it on the new pump without breaking, then yesterday after cleaning one hose up and crawling underneath to put that on, I saw it.. the wire hanging down. WTH

I was dreaming last night I was trying to figure out dsr routines on the TI-99, - oh, I'd rather be doing something else, than messing with a Toyota.

Edited by GDMike
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1 hour ago, OLD CS1 said:

Oh, man... WHOLLA

We Beat that up last week or two ago...I have no clue what that means. ? But I finished the power steering pump in the Toyota Camry today. Congratulations ?? to me and anyone else doing that job. Just make sure you jack the engine up and insert midget at each Mark according to the manual.

Then get in line to sue Toyota for being stupid.

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On 4/2/2022 at 11:36 AM, GDMike said:

I think it has to be pliable. Wouldn't that just break upon movement, that's Why it's filled with rubber? Doesn't matter now, I couldn't fill it anyway. I did find one at O'Reilly's for$157 or something like that, maybe it was$137...I didn't buy it yet. It's an easy component to replace, I'm just trying to get the car running first then we'll see.

I finished the pump installation, I've got to put the new tensioner on today, belt add fluid to the reservoir and the motor mount (temporary), and fire it up. Hope no leaks, I did end up breaking the pressure switch yesterday after being careful not to during removal. Originaly i was able to remove it, put it on the new pump without breaking, then yesterday after cleaning one hose up and crawling underneath to put that on, I saw it.. the wire hanging down. WTH

I was dreaming last night I was trying to figure out dsr routines on the TI-99, - oh, I'd rather be doing something else, than messing with a Toyota.

Reothane 2-part urethane (60A Shore hardness) to rebuild mounts and bushings

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3 hours ago, jedimatt42 said:

Happiness is...

 

Wondering why your soldering iron power supply was under the mail on the end table at the couch... after successfully searching for it. 

At least it wasn't in the fridge.. but it may have been working it's way there... haha ?? 

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