Iwantgames:) #701 Posted November 21, 2014 Lol nah works great Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #702 Posted November 22, 2014 There is an INTERESTING WEBSITE that has all kinds of photos of the TI, P-Box and other stuff in various states of disassembly. If you are a newbie that's never done more than slap a card into the P-Box, check this site out. You'll see the the TI is not so scary opened up. Who knows, you might finally tackle replacing that loud fan someday. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iwantgames:) #703 Posted November 22, 2014 There is an INTERESTING WEBSITE that has all kinds of photos of the TI, P-Box and other stuff in various states of disassembly. If you are a newbie that's never done more than slap a card into the P-Box, check this site out. You'll see the the TI is not so scary opened up. Who knows, you might finally tackle replacing that loud fan someday. What fan did you put in yours? Will any pc fan work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #704 Posted November 22, 2014 What fan did you put in yours? Will any pc fan work? Got it off of eBait... You might want to look at this MAINBYTE LINK for the procedure if you've never opened up a P-Box before. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #705 Posted November 23, 2014 Don't forget to swap 'em when it's open... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iwantgames:) #706 Posted November 23, 2014 Will this fan work? http://m.ebay.com/itm/221587451479?nav=SEARCH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+OLD CS1 #707 Posted November 23, 2014 Don't forget to swap 'em when it's open... The blue LED has a forward voltage rating of 3.3V to 3.4V. Is it bright enough? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+InsaneMultitasker #708 Posted November 23, 2014 Don't forget to swap 'em when it's open... That's funny... when I run across blue diodes I replace them with amber 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #709 Posted November 23, 2014 The blue LED has a forward voltage rating of 3.3V to 3.4V. Is it bright enough? Seems plenty brite to me, you tell me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #710 Posted November 23, 2014 On another off-topic subject, I made a post on Reddit today and then my blog EXPLODED with activity. My Lantronix entry got it's 1000th hit today. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+OLD CS1 #711 Posted November 23, 2014 Seems plenty brite to me, you tell me. Okay, then! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #712 Posted November 23, 2014 That's funny... when I run across blue diodes I replace them with amber Yeah! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #713 Posted November 23, 2014 Okay, then! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #714 Posted November 23, 2014 My Internet provider is driving me NUTZ. I seem to be getting a lot of this lately... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRetrogamer #715 Posted November 23, 2014 That's funny... when I run across blue diodes I replace them with amber I just replaced the LED in my frequently-used console with a nice, Blue diffused LED which is an odd move for me as I'm not into this whole Blue LED fad. I had the thing open to clean the cartridge slot and edge connector, saw the Blue LED sitting at the top of my parts-bin and had a brain-fart. It looks good just now but I can see myself replacing it again at some point in the future. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRetrogamer #716 Posted November 23, 2014 My PEB is one of the earlier 4 models with a push on/off switch. Is there anything I need to look out for, or are they as reliable as the 4/a ones with the flick-switch power? Any other differences? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #717 Posted November 23, 2014 My PEB is one of the earlier 4 models with a push on/off switch. Is there anything I need to look out for, or are they as reliable as the 4/a ones with the flick-switch power? Any other differences? A few as you can see from this first image, the metal part of the card guides goes clear to the top, this was deemed not good as it damaged some cards. If you use a P-Box with the metal guides going to the top, use some electrical tape to protect the card. This style of box USUALLY had a fuse holder on the back (which is a very good thing). The later rocker switch type, looks better, and they have the 'improved' card slot, but instead of a fuse holder, they have a fuseable link builit into the transformer as a cost-saving measure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRetrogamer #718 Posted November 23, 2014 Thanks for the info. I'm not likely to be inserting or removing any cards (unless, maybe if a PEB Speech card ever appears) so no real disadvantage, then... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #719 Posted November 23, 2014 You know, just looking at the back side of the P-Box, it just occurred to me, that would be the perfect spot to permanently mount a Lantronix UDS-10... right behind the disk bay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ksarul #720 Posted November 23, 2014 BTW, if you look at the little square plate next to the power cable on the newer PEBs, you will find out something interesting if you actually open it up--it is also the fuse holder. . .so there is an external fuse in addition to that fusible link in the middle of the transformer. Its normal function is to change the input voltage, but it is also the fuse. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tursi #721 Posted November 23, 2014 Ohm's picture made me wonder, there are some big electrolytics on the TI mainboard. They're very old. Has anyone seen a board where they are starting to fail yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+--- Ω --- #722 Posted November 24, 2014 Ohm's picture made me wonder, there are some big electrolytics on the TI mainboard. They're very old. Has anyone seen a board where they are starting to fail yet? Good question! I'm wondering if I should replace the capacitors in my backup box for the eventual day when the PEB in use finally fails. Anyone have a list or a link to a list of the SPECIFIC ones to order? I'd really rather not have to open it up just to find out. Hopefully those of us who decide to do this can get just the parts we need without having to order 100 of each from China. If not, maybe a replacement kit could be put together and sold by someone. I'd be interested in a package deal that would allow me to replace all the caps on all the original cards as well as the PEB. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ksarul #723 Posted November 24, 2014 Unicorn Electronics is your friend when it comes to small-volume orders. They have a low minimum order size ($25 before shipping) and a very wide selection of parts at more-or-less reasonable prices. I only say more-or-less due to the fact that the prices are higher for low-volume stuff--their quantity prices are usually pretty good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tursi #724 Posted November 24, 2014 Likewise for Digikey and Mouser, no minimum orders and, if I may borrow your phrase, more-or-less reasonable prices. I buy most of my components from one or the other. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+arcadeshopper #725 Posted November 25, 2014 Likewise for Digikey and Mouser, no minimum orders and, if I may borrow your phrase, more-or-less reasonable prices. I buy most of my components from one or the other. I use Mouser mostly, though my biggest problem is i forget something and have to pay shipping again Greg 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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