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R0ger

2 button joystick ?

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Out of curiosity what sort of cost is there to print a case this size?  I assume that the filament is the only consumable involved?

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Out of curiosity what sort of cost is there to print a case this size?  I assume that the filament is the only consumable involved?
I get most 1KG spools for under $15 and it looks like I could print several of those with a 1KG spool. I'd probably add some reinforcement ribs on the inside which work as open infill, then print the top somewhat thin and without infill.

Problem for most 3D printers is the bed size. I don't know if that would fit on the popular Creality Ender-3 (value king for the last year-plus) but it would definitely fit on the larger and more expensive Creality CR-10 and variants.

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I buy my filament for on average about $20 a kilo, so I use that in Cura for costing. I threw all three pieces on the print bed and sliced, obviously you wouldn't do that in real life you'd print in two or three jobs but for working out the time and cost its ok. 

 

All your print settings will impact the print time, amount of filament you use, and the cost along with it. This is .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer height, 100% infill, 50mm/s, no supports, no bed adhesion. 

 

1307720876_Screenshot2019-12-17at09_13_58.jpg.2f370ddbf4b977297b5542c94be1835a.jpg

 

My printer is a (now very modified) Ender-3, the print area is 220x220x250. This case is 210x180x50 so it fits but you'll need to print the bottom cover and cable strain relief separately.

 

If you were to get someone to print this for you, expect them to add in costs for time, printer wear and to cover failed prints. The amount people value their printer time varies a lot from person to person. 

 

 

Edited by Mr Robot
Variable costs

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So filament cost-wise it doesn't seem that bad, the killer just seems to be the print time.  Especially if a problem occurs at some point during the cycle, and the partial needs to be scrapped and restarted.  

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4 hours ago, CZroe said:

I'd probably add some reinforcement ribs on the inside which work as open infill, then print the top somewhat thin and without infill.

To save filament? Or time?

 

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2 hours ago, doubledown said:

Especially if a problem occurs at some point during the cycle, and the partial needs to be scrapped and restarted.  

Imagine how much filament gets recycled during the development of these things!

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To save filament? Or time?

To increase strength/thickness with only one wall (the top side). Basically, convert that enclosed infill you see into structural ribs that are exposed on the inside (no need for a wall there). Just a design consideration based on what I've seen from similar products over the years.

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Yes I’m really happy with how they feel to use. I intended to add some weights to them but I don’t think they need it. 

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13 hours ago, Mr Robot said:

Yes I’m really happy with how they feel to use. I intended to add some weights to them but I don’t think they need it. 

What does on one of these cost ;-) for those of us printerless?

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I'm not selling these, I don't want to tie my printer up for the length of time they take to print. You can take the stls to somewhere like https://i.materialise.com/en and get an instant quote, my guess would be that it would be cheaper to buy an Ender-3 and print your own than get 2 of these printed.

 

I just remembered that @Gavin1968 has just started up a 3d printing service, maybe his rates will be more affordable?

Edited by Mr Robot
Add stuff about Vintage Computer Center

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I ordered octagonal restrictor plates for my Sanwa compatible joysticks. I think that these are much better than the normal square ones for the 4 way or 8 way joystick games of the 80s. Maybe (or maybe not) the normal square restrictors are better for the arcade fighting games of the 90s? What do you think? After all, does everybody here use Sanwa compatible joysticks? Alternatives?

 

sanwa-gt-octagonal-restrictor-plate_1_4f

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I personally prefer happ joysticks but all the cheap knockoffs on eBay are sanwa style so I end up with those. 

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For experimental reasons, I printed out an octagonal restrictor with a resin printer. Fascinating! The result is usable, but I had to rework the snap-in holes a bit. In the end it is still better to simply order a finished part. ;-)

WhatsApp Image 2020-01-14 at 22.33.15.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-01-14 at 22.33.15-2.jpeg

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Problem with these is that sometimes the diagonal directions don't work properly. You basically limit both switches to about 70% deflection. That might not be enough to trigger them both.

It can be tuned by carefully bending the switch lever, but It's much easier with square limiter plate, as the dead zone will be also square. Even with those some tuning is useful, I usually want the dead zone to by symmetrical and same for all the switches and directions.

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On 1/6/2020 at 9:35 PM, biobern said:

These should also work: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015174

 

Update: No, it doesn't! The octagonal hole is too big. It does not restrict anything in the 4 main directions. Better order a commercial octagonal restrictor where all 8 directions really feel the same. Big advantage! I had an instant highscore in Atari Defender with 3 Button patch. 4 way games (Pacman, Donkey Kong...) also work great now.

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On 1/16/2020 at 3:24 PM, R0ger said:

Problem with these is that sometimes the diagonal directions don't work properly. You basically limit both switches to about 70% deflection. That might not be enough to trigger them both.

It can be tuned by carefully bending the switch lever, but It's much easier with square limiter plate, as the dead zone will be also square. Even with those some tuning is useful, I usually want the dead zone to by symmetrical and same for all the switches and directions.

Sorry, but there is no lever to bend. Do you know how a Sanwa Joystick is built? The microswitch is pressed directly without an additional lever. And the (very normal) microswitch has enough tolerance after clicking. Since I finally have a commercial restrictor (and not my self printed one), it works perfect, even with my cheap Sanwa clone stick. This constnuction is proven by Sanwa for a long long time. There simply is no problem.

 

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSo9HDPra6UhrrtpF2SjpDHUc6xBEju7zU1b-NOcaJNFW-65yvv&s

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1 hour ago, biobern said:

Sorry, but there is no lever to bend. Do you know how a Sanwa Joystick is built? The microswitch is pressed directly without an additional lever. And the (very normal) microswitch has enough tolerance after clicking. Since I finally have a commercial restrictor (and not my self printed one), it works perfect, even with my cheap Sanwa clone stick. This constnuction is proven by Sanwa for a long long time. There simply is no problem.

 

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSo9HDPra6UhrrtpF2SjpDHUc6xBEju7zU1b-NOcaJNFW-65yvv&s

Hmm .. I've never actually seen Sanwa original. I use some copy, I think it's Zippy. And that uses the force limiting levers. I've seen this solution on some other copies as well.

I can see how this direct method will result in much tighter dead zone.

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17 hours ago, R0ger said:

Hmm .. I've never actually seen Sanwa original. I use some copy, I think it's Zippy. And that uses the force limiting levers. I've seen this solution on some other copies as well.

I can see how this direct method will result in much tighter dead zone.

Original Sanwa and my cheap copy look the same. Like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSo9HDPra6UhrrtpF2SjpDHUc6xBEju7zU1b-NOcaJNFW-65yvv&s

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My cheap Sanwa copies look the same too, I feel they have too much travel, at the top of a balltop its quite a long swing to push the microswitch button. Sanwa make stronger springs for people who prefer a stiffer action, that may make it feel a little more Happ like but really I think the ring on the end of the joystick rod that touches against the microswitch buttons needs to be a little bigger so the buttons are already half pushed.

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