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13 hours ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

This often happens when one is in close proximity to a quantum singularity.?

...don't eat any!☢️

:-D

 

I reinstalled the HRD3000, removed batteries, etc. then both SWAN and DRAGON (different resolution are okay in MYART).

 

But the problem with EXB80DEMO exists, my gut feel is to do with the GBS8200 (v4) device not be able to sync. properly in this text/graphic mode when in GPL (TIMODE).  In MDOS i tried different  Mode 40, 60, 90, 80 all working fine when doing a directory listing.

 

 

 

 

20210110_080106.jpg

20210110_081745.jpg

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7 minutes ago, globeron said:

But the problem with EXB80DEMO exists, my gut feel is to do with the GBS8200 (v4) device not be able to sync. properly in this text/graphic mode when in GPL (TIMODE).

Your XB demo looks as if it is in 26.5 line mode.  What version of GPL are you using?  The version number will display on the GPL start screen, before the TI press any key screen.

 

When at the OS command prompt type: 

"MODE 80"

"DIR"

 

Then try: 

"MODE 90"

"DIR"

 

Any change in sync?

 

 

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3 hours ago, InsaneMultitasker said:

Your XB demo looks as if it is in 26.5 line mode.  What version of GPL are you using?  The version number will display on the GPL start screen, before the TI press any key screen.

 

When at the OS command prompt type: 

"MODE 80"

"DIR"

 

Then try: 

"MODE 90"

"DIR"

 

Any change in sync?

 

 

 

Hmm. Are there different GPL versions? I did not know that, maybe that is the issue. Need to figure out where the different software is. GPL,GPM,GPN,GPO. Maybe hijack of @mizapf disk as there it is working.  My MDOS is 6.5

In MDOS Mode 40,60,80,90 are all the DIRs okay.

 

 

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1 hour ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

GBS8200 (v4) ...Dunno.:ponder:

 

LTT 10380, LHS 1050, ...I'm your man!?

 

Dragons And Swans...

  P.S. No offense if you're a big fan of swans or dragons.:-D

Interesting game. Need to try it out.  I am going to change my startup loader 'as it was a Dragon' to get this Geneve 9640 up running till now. Very stable now. Only this latest graphic issue.

 

And was wondering if there is memory issue

As my has the upgrade. 

20210110_081842.thumb.jpg.8a28265f8565e0672318e761fb8f8d87.jpg

 

 

But I see a different number here in the manual in CHKDSK in bytes free  (my total memory is okay) see

http://www.mainbyte.com/ti99/geneve/geneve32k.html

 

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3 hours ago, InsaneMultitasker said:

What version of GPL are you using?  The version number will display on the GPL start screen,

GPL Interpreter version 6.50

Modified June 30, 1996

 

(Ignore the errors on the screen, thats fixed after resetting all)

 

20210109_170959.thumb.jpg.d4bd72c670a1bc79fb3359b0412f775a.jpg

Edited by globeron
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I think it is he GBS8200 device having issues with the sync. (I also used the GPL of the MAME). see video it first shows okay for a split second, then it syncs. to the corrupted one.

 

@shift838 can you check EXB80DEMO with your GBS device to see if it works at your side? Otherwise maybe I will try to replace the VDP9938.

 

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10 hours ago, globeron said:

I think it is he GBS8200 device having issues with the sync. (I also used the GPL of the MAME). see video it first shows okay for a split second, then it syncs. to the corrupted one.

 

@shift838 can you check EXB80DEMO with your GBS device to see if it works at your side? Otherwise maybe I will try to replace the VDP9938

Are you using the standard firmware that came with the GBS control unit or the newer gbscontrol firmware?

 

 

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On 1/11/2021 at 2:46 AM, Shift838 said:

Are you using the standard firmware that came with the GBS control unit or the newer gbscontrol firmware?

 

 

Confirmed it is a GBS8200 issue. I have the 80 mode working in Extended Basic (on stock firmware).  But spent a lot of time upgrading the D1 mini. And trying out, but now i cannot get a stable screen anymore and one in a while loose the signal. Looks like a lot of fine tuning to get it stable again. Will try another GBS board.

 

16106300595081993173893709077623.thumb.jpg.bcd1fb5c577fe3643641cf9a47103f20.jpg

 

 

Edited by globeron
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/7/2018 at 8:01 AM, RickyDean said:

Well I've still been working on the card I got from Tim and still haven't gotten it fired up yet, will try to work on it some this weekend. I have however been cleaning up the scanned images from 1987, using Photoshop and have cleaner images to follow traces and such, a lot on man hours over Labor day weekend.

But in the process I did have a chance to examine my PFM+ machine, last night and found that the wire circled was not attached to the chip leg, but just laying very near it. When I soldered it back and plugged the Genny into the PEB she came up with the boot screen, The third time in 20 years, I was a happy camper.

Tim are there any schematics, drawings or other info as to the blacked out chips and wire paths for the PFM+ and I believe 384mb mod, maybe wrong there though?

post-41593-0-33686400-1536321676_thumb.jpg

post-41593-0-56902600-1536321696_thumb.jpg

In post 65 of this thread I have asked about a wire that had come loose on my Geneve PFM+. I taliked about a circled wire, but it seems that the pic was never attached to the post. So I am posting the picture of the back of my card here, as soon as I figure out why Atariage is not letting me choose files from my phone. This is so that the InsaneMultitasker can look at the wires on the back.

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1 minute ago, RickyDean said:

Tim, I'm sorry, at the moment, when I try to click on "Click to choose files" to attach pics, nothing happens. I know I have uploaded before with this phone and at the current time, that is the only way I can communicate on AtariAge. Let see if I am doing something wrong.

No problem.  Snap a few closeups of the front and back of this chipstack as well, and lift the wire that is disconnected and tell me (if you can) where it leads to.  

 

I pulled out my PFM+/384K Geneve and it does not have the same configuration, for example, on mine there is a resistor on the top chip (which should be the LS139) from pins 2-8, which matches my old hand-drawn schematic.

image.png.26a0094371b9c45d06511f26b91ec798.png

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Here is what mine looks like.  

The LS139 controls the two 29c010 Atmel chips. 

The chip underneath is a LS138 which controls the three 128K SRAM chips.

The resistor in my picture may be located on the back of the card, attached to pin 32 of the 9901. I seem to recall making changes for future servicing and moving the resistor would have made it "easier" to remove that triple stack.

I mentioned flying wires earlier -- there always seemed to be a need to remove the triple stack or the memory/pfm stacks when people did something bad to their cards. I have a graveyard of 128K chips and triple-stack chips... Anyway, once we know where that wire leads I can in theory tell you where it should be attached.

 

E76BF554-C5BE-4A5E-B46C-27B9B2C11469.thumb.jpeg.391b66e34a7463e03995bd12542ab83c.jpeg   65995ED2-C7B9-4CB4-8BAB-0AEC4EF29727.thumb.jpeg.bb20a3bf38c5fd9079af2219c6e9a6cc.jpeg   4365517D-BE0D-4501-854F-904DAA3404A1.thumb.jpeg.d98d70970321d7d46849b32a1003f84d.jpeg 

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25 minutes ago, InsaneMultitasker said:

Here is what mine looks like.  

The LS139 controls the two 29c010 Atmel chips. 

The chip underneath is a LS138 which controls the three 128K SRAM chips.

The resistor in my picture may be located on the back of the card, attached to pin 32 of the 9901. I seem to recall making changes for future servicing and moving the resistor would have made it "easier" to remove that triple stack.

I mentioned flying wires earlier -- there always seemed to be a need to remove the triple stack or the memory/pfm stacks when people did something bad to their cards. I have a graveyard of 128K chips and triple-stack chips... Anyway, once we know where that wire leads I can in theory tell you where it should be attached.

 

E76BF554-C5BE-4A5E-B46C-27B9B2C11469.thumb.jpeg.391b66e34a7463e03995bd12542ab83c.jpeg   65995ED2-C7B9-4CB4-8BAB-0AEC4EF29727.thumb.jpeg.bb20a3bf38c5fd9079af2219c6e9a6cc.jpeg   4365517D-BE0D-4501-854F-904DAA3404A1.thumb.jpeg.d98d70970321d7d46849b32a1003f84d.jpeg 

That blue wire on the backup at the top of the top resistor, that would be the same , I suppose as the red wire on mine. That was the loose wire on mine on the other end, not the resistor end, and I tied it to the wrong point, if it is supposed to be arranged like yours. This is probably the culprit then as I tied it to the bottom leg of the 7805, above the VDP,  as the wire reached there, and since it was red, I thought maybe a "hot" wire. If it is supposed to route lime yours let me know for sure and I'll change it tomorrow sometime and see if it tries to boot and not just freeze at the initial screen. When I say top resistor, I mean if you flipped the board around, with the contacts at the bottom.

Edited by RickyDean
added info.
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48 minutes ago, RickyDean said:

bottom leg of the 7805, above the VDP,

Ouch, hot! Some color-coding was done so that we could tell at-a-glance some specifics about the card. The meaning has, well, lost meaning over time.  There is no +5/ground color coding for these mods.

 

See below, is the wire you refer to 1 or 2? (should be 1)  Test continuity of the wire with pin 31 as shown on the 29c010.  If that wire is indeed connected to 31, then you want to solder it back to that resistor lead.

 

Tying to +5 would definitely inhibit operation of the PFM.  

 

   image.png.4294b26f0b691ecaba231adf0edc7651.png

    image.png.fd3c9ffcc2626c43c3a21cd9dd9c9583.png

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10 hours ago, InsaneMultitasker said:

Ouch, hot! Some color-coding was done so that we could tell at-a-glance some specifics about the card. The meaning has, well, lost meaning over time.  There is no +5/ground color coding for these mods.

 

See below, is the wire you refer to 1 or 2? (should be 1)  Test continuity of the wire with pin 31 as shown on the 29c010.  If that wire is indeed connected to 31, then you want to solder it back to that resistor lead.

 

Tying to +5 would definitely inhibit operation of the PFM.  

 

   image.png.4294b26f0b691ecaba231adf0edc7651.png

    image.png.fd3c9ffcc2626c43c3a21cd9dd9c9583.png

Okay, I don't think it's 1 that's my problem. 2 is the wire I mentioned and it is the one I soldered the other end to the reg leg, a couple of years ago. When I pulled this Geneve out of storage, shortly after, joining Atariage, the 2 leg of the resistor had been pulled out of the jumper hole it had been fed through, and the end of the wire close to the resistor was broken loose. I thought it had broken loose from the pulled out resistor, but from your pic, #2 is supposed to be at the hole below the end of the resistor that is facing up. So it looks like I'll have to redo both ends. Does that end feed through and attach on the other side?

Edited by RickyDean
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Check for continuity between Atmel pin 2 and SRAM pin 2.  

The resistor is a pull-up to +5, so basically what you did is to connect the 5v from one regulator to the 5v from another. It isn't clear to me where that wire should go, as the connection point I originally considered is a jump for AMA, however, it wouldn't be pulled up to +5.  I'll chew on this a bit more tonight, though I may not be able to help without asking you to do some careful disassembly and tracing of each wire and connection point. 

 

To the best of your recollection, please confirm that the wire was originally connected to that resistor lead and the other wire was floating loose on the back of the card.    

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2 hours ago, InsaneMultitasker said:

To the best of your recollection, please confirm that the wire was originally connected to that resistor lead and the other wire was floating loose on the back of the card.    

As I said, when I pulled it from storage the wire was broke off and floating, at the same time as that resistor was pulled out of the jumper hole. I do not know if it was originally connected to that resistor or not, thought when I "fixed" it the Geneve seemed to work and boot. But somewhere in that process,  the other end came loose and as I did not take pictures, I didn't know where it went. I looked over the points and tried to picture which solder point it had been attached to, so as it looked like it could have been attached to that point at the regulator, I attached it there. That's how I believe I remember it.

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I think mine had 2 before heading to Chris. I know one thing those wires need epoxy, or something that doesn't interfere with the circuit but bonds and is completely removable. I'm not sure if a glue gun glue fits that, but THIS is why these trace wires fall off other than just pulling from the solder joint.

I hate handling these myself, just put them in and leave em, take photos prior to install.

Edited by GDMike
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1 hour ago, dhe said:

Tim,

 In theory, what's the minimum number of jumper wires for a geneve? ?

 

It's directly proportional to how many times the card has been shipped. ;)

 

1 hour ago, GDMike said:

but THIS is why these trace wires fall off other than just pulling from the solder joint.

For these mods, the cards were always intended to be kept inside their respective cases, and nearly all 384k/pfm modified Geneves started with their own case. Back in the day, a case was added if the customer did not have one. Many customers removed the cases because of past overheating problems, even after replacing the regulator and heat sink made doing so unnecessary.

 

Wires do not just fall off for no reason.

 

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