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Cool, my new eyes are working good. Can't wait to build one :)

Cool :thumbsup: . Glad to hear all went well with your eye surgery.

 

But don't fire up the soldering iron just yet, because this thing isn't ready for release yet. Heck I still need to stuff and solder the first board myself to see if any magic smoke escapes. And unfortunately I won't get time for that until early January.

 

Then I need to create a BOM, send out boards to the beta group, allow them time to build their own, and finally if they give it a clean bill of health then it will get released.

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I was going to hold off on saying anything until I had a fully assembled working board, but me bad :grin: .

 

I just did the first 1088XLD board run, with all of them destined to go to beta testers (sorry :( ). So far everything appears to be a drop-in fit into a 1050 case ( :thumbsup: :) ). The only case mode required will be to enlarge the former drive select switch hole to allow for plugging into the audio/video DIN-13 connector. BTW that connector spits out Composite, S-Video, Stereo Sound, and if equipped with a Sophia or VBXE, will also pass thru the RGB/Component video. And for those talented at case mods, it looks like Sophia's DVI connector could fit above one of the SIO ports, only requiring a rectangular hole be made to accommodate it.

 

msg-42561-0-88972100-1545336115.jpg

 

The I/O interface puts the connectors where they make sense. It'll have an extended pin male header, as well as a female header on the main board. And although this I/O interface board would work, I'm seriously contemplating doing a new layout with tabs and holes that capture the front two floppy drive mounting pins. It would likely add a lot more rigidity when plugging stuff into the connectors. Also thinking of making a second stacking board to go above it for the MIDI DIN connectors and the CF2IDE adapter, which would benefit greatly to have the 1st board locked in place.

 

msg-42561-0-68966900-1545336130.jpg

 

Front View peeking through the original brown bezel. So the idea is to have a 3rd level with the CF slot to the left, and the MIDI DIN connectors to the right. Then a custom machined 4 mm thick panel with engraved labeling will fill that hole left by the original floppy drive mechanism.

 

msg-42561-0-51201300-1545336147.jpg

 

View without the bezel. I was playing around with Dropcheck's Cartridge extender board plugged into the cart edge card connector. Nice to see it will fit. My initial plans don't include a Cartridge Port, but at least we see that is a feasible option.

 

msg-42561-0-48312400-1545336154.jpg

 

Yes folks things are definitely happening :) .

Looks like I picked a good day to quit sniffing glue (err, I mean move furniture in 3 rooms to finally have my own dedicated work office)!

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Looks like I picked a good day to quit sniffing glue (err, I mean move furniture in 3 rooms to finally have my own dedicated work office)!

 

I still have (only) my existing cluttered workbench, but I do have a DOA 1050 with a butchered drive mech and a near pristine case that would be much better purposed with one of these boards. :)

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Didn't expect this to arrive before the 30th :)

post-20947-0-56766500-1545924670.png

 

I have never soldered something this small. Hope it all works out.

 

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I need magnifying glasses just to see that chip!

 

LOL, yeah, I just went to InterToys and got myself this:

post-20947-0-61393400-1545928535.png

 

Eventually I might buy one you can wear on your head/glasses, but for now this should at least be good enough to check solder joints and bridges.

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Good luck with soldering that chip :) .

 

Will you be redesigning that board for a smaller form factor down the road? I know from previous discussions, that on this initial layout you gave yourself plenty of extra space. Just curious if you intend to take it beyond this initial design.

 

If this wave blaster concept based on that chip works well, I think I know someone over here in the US that has the means to build these, and can be a distributor as well. Be nice to see this as a viable alternative for use in the 1088XLD, or for use in the XEL with the MIDI-XEL board. But it would be much better to have it closer in size to the Dream Blaster S2 board to make that more practical.

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Good luck with soldering that chip :) .

 

Thanks. Have been watching a few video's on YouTube. Reckon I should just try it it. I have three chips and ten boards to fiddle with :)

 

Will you be redesigning that board for a smaller form factor down the road? I know from previous discussions, that on this initial layout you gave yourself plenty of extra space. Just curious if you intend to take it beyond this initial design.

 

If this wave blaster concept based on that chip works well, I think I know someone over here in the US that has the means to build these, and can be a distributor as well. Be nice to see this as a viable alternative for use in the 1088XLD, or for use in the XEL with the MIDI-XEL board. But it would be much better to have it closer in size to the Dream Blaster S2 board to make that more practical.

 

Eventually, I plan to create a smaller form factor for both boards (CS board and VS board), but first I'll have to see whether this board works at all :) As for building and distributing in the US, that would be great! Boards go from China straight to the US. Depending on the interest, one might also opt for assembly in China.

Edited by ivop
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OK, it took me just over an hour to ruin my first board and chip. Had the part properly aligned, corners fixed, two sides worked fine (drag soldering w/ flux) but I messed up at the third side. Had to clean bridges and pushed way to hard with my soldering iron. Bend pins and what not. Totally ruined :) Used the fourth side for practicing and messed that one up, too. This is even harder than I expected. Tried using my phone on a tripod to magnify (which works surprisingly well) but it's a whole different way of moving your hands and soldering as every move you make is magnified, too. Think I'll leave it for today and try again tomorrow.

 

Edit: and while tidying up, I burned my hand :( I should get another hobby ;)

Edited by ivop

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I found this (and the embedded links) an interesting read but I still haven't been brave enough to have a go at it myself. I have a couple of smt boards and the required components to practice on.

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I found this (and the embedded links) an interesting read but I still haven't been brave enough to have a go at it myself. I have a couple of smt boards and the required components to practice on.

 

I think you forgot a link? ;)

 

I have done TSOP and 0804 in the past without problems, but LQFP48 might be beyond my capabilities.

Edited by ivop

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Good luck. I can't see well enough to solder anything but DIP anymore.

 

:)

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Between my 2.00 bifocal lenses and these, I can handle the tiniest through-hole stuff with no issue, but I have zero desire to ever tackle SMD stuff, ever.

 

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MH1047L-Illuminated-Flip-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1546054881&sr=8-4&keywords=magnifying+headlamp+with+light

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Anyone use something like this? Might help to see, but I think my hands would still shake too much. https://www.gearbest.com/microscopes-endoscope/pp_009651338410.html?wid=1433363

 

I did something similar with a small tripod and my phone and it's really difficult to adjust your movements to the magnified view. That's what surgeons have to practice for years.

 

Edit: is gearbest trustworthy? looks like a nice gadget ;)

Edited by ivop

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I've ordered one thing from them and recieved it no problem. My credit union did question the purchase however. I also used paypal and credit card for the purchase.

Edited by chevymad

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Thanks for the tip, although I'm also afraid my hands will shake too much.

 

Perhaps I'll get some solder paste and a syringe first and try my hand at baking in a small oven. I already have a digital thermometer that goes way beyond what's necessary. Maybe I'll try the skillet method, too.

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I remember doing some fairly small pitch SMD components about 12 years ago, where I would dab a very tiny amount of solder paste on the pads with a syringe, then drop the component on top. Then I used a hot air gun (purchased at hardware store) with a DIY concentrating tip fashioned from a reducing copper fitting that was slid over the end of the heat nozzle. I then moved the end in a circular pattern around the SMD Integrated Circuit (a 24 pin PIC chip), concentrating on the pads as I slowly moved it closer with each pass (I started from high up above). When I saw the paste melt and flow, I removed the heat. Worked like a charm!

 

Of course that was when my eyesight was still good, and I could see very small stuff without glasses. And it was with a TSOP packaged component.

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I used an airgun to clean up the mess and salvage the chip :) Have borked another board today ;) I have also investigated getting it assembled in China, but even with a New Year's coupon, it's still at least 75 USD for five boards with only the LQFP48 chip soldered. Whole boards will easily set me back over hundred euro. I can't afford that. Especially because I'm not even sure the circuit is working. OK, my previous board worked at the first iteration, but you know what they say about success in the past. If I knew it would work, I could sell the four spare boards and recoup some of my money, but if they don't....

 

Anyway, I ordered syringes and solder paste. Should be here in about two to three weeks. Patience... :)

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Didn't expect this to arrive before the 30th :)

attachicon.gifaavs1053.png

 

I have never soldered something this small. Hope it all works out.

 

Sry I haven't posted before, but i have been following all of you guy's great work. And i plan on eventually building my own 1088XEL and 1088XLD.

 

But, I have experience soldering this size pitch, and even smaller, by hand for where I used to work. Believe me, it took a lot of practice to do it right the first time. I could do it, if I had the equipment and solder and flux (which i don't). So, i'll have to look into getting the equipment first. Then look into the right solder and flux.

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