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1088XLD - Custom A8 Computer in 1050 Drive Case


mytek

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All those YouTube videos make it look so easy, but trust me, it's not. Hadn't seen this method, yet. He only uses the solder mask to somehow get it to stick after ten minutes. I reckon I better wait for the solder paste to arrive :)

 

But gozar, thanks anyway for this link. It's something I could consider if all else fails.

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All those YouTube videos make it look so easy, but trust me, it's not. Hadn't seen this method, yet. He only uses the solder mask to somehow get it to stick after ten minutes. I reckon I better wait for the solder paste to arrive :)

 

But gozar, thanks anyway for this link. It's something I could consider if all else fails.

 

He is not using solder mask. What he is doing is taking his soldering iron and with a sweeping motion. putting solder on the trace pads. (essentially priming the pads with solder ahead of time.) After doing that he places the smd on the board with the legs sitting on each of the pads. Then when he uses the hot air iron.he is is causing the solder that is already on the pad to melt. thus allowing the legs sitting on top of the solder to slip down into the melted solder onto the pad. And when the heat from the hot air iron is removed, the solder cools and solidifies. thus soldering the part's legs into place.

 

One thing though, when using a hot air iron to solder a part to a PCBA, especially ICs. you need to hold the part in place until enough of the part is solder in place. Or the part could very likely fly off to never never land. Like what happened with the second IC he started to solder into place.

Edited by The WABBIT
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You guys do know what solder mask is? :-D

 

Basically it's what keeps solder from sticking where it's not needed or not wanted. I think the term you were actually looking for is called "plating". Speaking of which, I've had good success just using solder paste and allowing the plating to re-flow to create the bond. Although I have my boards made with a lead based plating which I'm sure plays a big role in the success of this method. Really sad and stupid that they have eliminated the lead from most electronic solder, because in this form it is a very stable element, is the best for the application, and despite claims of ground contamination, is actually pretty benign if tossed into a landfill.

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You guys do know what solder mask is? :-D

 

Basically it's what keeps solder from sticking where it's not needed or not wanted. I think the term you were actually looking for is called "plating". Speaking of which, I've had good success just using solder paste and allowing the plating to re-flow to create the bond. Although I have my boards made with a lead based plating which I'm sure plays a big role in the success of this method. Really sad and stupid that they have eliminated the lead from most electronic solder, because in this form it is a very stable element, is the best for the application, and despite claims of ground contamination, is actually pretty benign if tossed into a landfill.

 

You're right. I guess the confusion is because the layers are called (B|F).mask in KiCad and English is not my first language (yeah, lame excuse ;)). But it's indeed the plating, although I call that solder pad finish :)

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You're right. I guess the confusion is because the layers are called (B|F).mask in KiCad and English is not my first language (yeah, lame excuse ;)). But it's indeed the plating, although I call that solder pad finish :)

 

Yeah its also called "tinning" as well, and I think that comes from the practice of making your own PCBs and using a tin plating solution to protect the bare copper. I sure don't miss those days ;) .

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Well, I worked as a SMT Operator and Reworker for 10years. So, yes, I do know what soldermask is. And what you are referring to as plating is not what is actually defined as plating in the industry.

https://www.sunstone.com/pcb-manufacturing-capabilities/detailed-capabilities/plating

Plating on a PCB refers to the electrochemical process by which a metal is deposited onto the surface of the circuit board, and inside the plated through-holes. The most common plated metal in PCB fabrication is copper. Copper plating serves two purposes, it increases the copper thickness of the surface pads and conductors as well as providing a robust copper connection from layer to layer through the plated through-holes.


But, it doesn't matter. What matters is that you guys are making to beautiful motherboard for new Atari 8-bit computers.

Ah, ok. I didn't watch the whole video (seen enough of them) but briefly skipped through it and never saw him apply any solder or paste.

 

As for never see the guy apply solder to the board. That's what happens when you skipped through the video.

 

All you need to do is watch the video to see how the guy soldered the SMD to the board, which is the first thing he does. At that point you do not need to watch it further.

Edited by The WABBIT
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I always refer to it as tinning as well, just showing our age I guess.

 

I remember when I first tried to do wave soldering at home with a block of solder, some flux and a metal tray and a hotplate, getting the solder liquid, jiggling the tray to cause a few waves and then just barely dipping the boards into the solder. Health and safety would have an aneurysm now if we tried to do that!

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Well, I worked as a SMT Operator and Reworker for 10years. So, yes, I do know what soldermask is. And what you are referring to as plating is not what is actually defined as plating in the industry.

 

https://www.sunstone.com/pcb-manufacturing-capabilities/detailed-capabilities/plating

"tomayto, tomahto" whatever you wish to call it makes no matter. However I do think we established that it isn't the same as solder mask. And when I brought it up I was only jesting (note: smiley face), and knew exactly what ivop and yourself were referring to.

 

 

But, it doesn't matter. What matters is that you guys are making to beautiful motherboard for new Atari 8-bit computers.

Why thank you, it is appreciated :thumbsup: :) .

 

A single board has been assembled, and testing has commenced. So far so good.

 

 

Given that he heated a part the size of my pinky nail for a solid 10 minutes, it's not unwise to think it would have melted through and stuck to the solder mask :)

 

Yeah I too thought that the total time spent applying heat was excessive :ponder: .

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1088XLD First Tests Looking Very Good

 

Over the last couple of days I've been bringing up the first assembled board piece by piece, and slowly testing different aspects as I go. So far it's been a wonderful and satisfying experience to see things are actually working, with only a few minor and easily fixable issues popping up. Sorry I didn't do a first power-up video, but that was the last thing on my mind when making the decision to apply power and switch it on.

 

Features

  • Made to drop into a 1050 case with minimal modification.
  • U1MB runs the show, and now that Lotharek has replaced the right angle headers with straight ones, it's a simple matter of plugging it into the 1088XLD motherboard.
  • Dual on-board PAL/NTSC primary crystals selectable with a jumper block.
  • PS/2 keyboard.
  • PS/2 Mouse.
  • Dual SIO ports.
  • Dual Pokeys for stereo sound.
  • Built-in MIDI controller, as well as Wave Blaster (or equivalent) support.
  • New Improved built-in IDE with dual CF card support (now with fully buffered data and address bus).
  • +5 and +12V regulated power, available from the SIO ports or a 4 pin header.
  • Precisely regulated color adjustment that doesn't shift with temperature.

New TK-II keyboard firmware with XLD related hot key assignments...

 

ALT+M = toggles the mouse port selection similar to the push button on the XEL mouse select board. This assigns a given joystick port to the PS/2 mouse (which emulates an ST mouse).

ALT+N = set swap latch for "next" disk. Used by XEL Loader with multi-disk ATRs, to initiate next disk to boot.

 

https://youtu.be/KebCiXjjh4o

 

Edit: On Friday I got the rest of my missing parts, and fully populated the board. So this gave me a working CF drive and MIDI playback. I'm happy to report everything now looks to be 100% functional :) .

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Re the LQFP48 package, besides ordering syringes and solder paste, just now I ordered a(n) (L)QFP48 to DIP48 socket! They used to set you back at least 50 dollar (some are over 80 dollar US), but now I found one for "just" 11 euro. At least, in theory, it should allow me to check the circuit's working on a bread board :)

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Anyone use something like this? Might help to see, but I think my hands would still shake too much. https://www.gearbest.com/microscopes-endoscope/pp_009651338410.html?wid=1433363

That looks great. Is it lag free? I always liked the ring fluorescent tube circling the lens (all on a swivel arm) type magnifier.

Is this good for working on iPhones? It's getting really difficult for me to work on iPhones.

 

He installed [forced me to] LED lights in the store that are the high frequency blueish white that distort the vision, and have been PROVEN to cause Macular Drgeneration.

https://www.macular.org/ultra-violet-and-blue-light

 

Sorry for the off topic, I was ranting about my employer [owner].

:)

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lets do it with an XF551 now.

Problem is finding even a broken one at a decent price. I only have one in my collection which will eventually be getting one of Dropcheck's replacement boards installed, whenever I find the time to do it.

 

And then there's the issue of creating yet another motherboard to fit. Probably not going to happen on my watch :) .

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1088XLD First Tests Looking Very Good

 

Over the last couple of days I've been bringing up the first assembled board piece by piece, and slowly testing different aspects as I go. So far it's been a wonderful and satisfying experience to see things are actually working, with only a few minor and easily fixable issues popping up. Sorry I didn't do a first power-up video, but that was the last thing on my mind when making the decision to apply power and switch it on.

 

Features

  • Made to drop into a 1050 case with minimal modification.
  • U1MB runs the show, and now that Lotharek has replaced the right angle headers with straight ones, it's a simple matter of plugging it into the 1088XLD motherboard.
  • Dual on-board PAL/NTSC primary crystals selectable with a jumper block.
  • PS/2 keyboard.
  • PS/2 Mouse.
  • Dual SIO ports.
  • Dual Pokeys for stereo sound.
  • Built-in MIDI controller, as well as Wave Blaster (or equivalent) support.
  • New Improved built-in IDE with dual CF card support (now with fully buffered data and address bus).
  • +5 and +12V regulated power, available from the SIO ports or a 4 pin header.
  • Precisely regulated color adjustment that doesn't shift with temperature.

New TK-II keyboard firmware with XLD related hot key assignments...

 

ALT+M = toggles the mouse port selection similar to the push button on the XEL mouse select board. This assigns a given joystick port to the PS/2 mouse (which emulates an ST mouse).

ALT+N = set swap latch for "next" disk. Used by XEL Loader with multi-disk ATRs, to initiate next disk to boot.

 

https://youtu.be/KebCiXjjh4o

 

Edit: On Friday I got the rest of my missing parts, and fully populated the board. So this gave me a working CF drive and MIDI playback. I'm happy to report everything now looks to be 100% functional :) .

 

 

That is one of the horniest video's I watched this week.......... :-D :-D :-D :-D

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That is one of the horniest video's I watched this week.......... :-D :-D :-D :-D

 

LOL I didn't realize my projects were that sexy ;-) .

 

I'm glad you liked it :-D .

 

Working on round two for the 2nd beta run of boards, and have reverted to the UAV as the video driver instead of my DIY version. Just wasn't happy with what I was seeing, especially when I started previewing on other monitors. Really hard to beat what Bryan created.

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  • 2 weeks later...

1088XLD Final Version Board Set: First Assembly

 

In order to best take advantage of the open space where the floppy drive once lived, a strategy of a main board combined with 2 satellite boards was adopted. The Level1 board is pretty much a must have, whereas the Level2 board is optional, or might have variations created to suit different requirements.

 

The UAV has been reinstated as the main video drive. Just can't beat what Bryan developed in this board, and now that MacRorie has taken over production, the supply has resumed.

 

I also show a Sophia RGB board installed with it's signals routed to the DIN-13 Audio/Video jack on the back via an RGB pass through header. This jack provides all of the video possibilities (composite, S-Video, and RGB), as well as the stereo audio outputs (these outputs are also available on the front side 3.5 mm stereo jack). Enlarging the former drive select switch hole allows access to the DIN-13 jack. So far this is the only external modification to the 1050 case.

 

The Level1 board is solidly anchored to the case by reusing the original floppy drive posts, and inserting threaded rods with nuts and washers. This allows for plugging in and out the various connectors without any of the boards being torqued in the process.

 

post-42561-0-28420300-1548446502_thumb.jpg

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post-42561-0-47590000-1548446548_thumb.jpg

 

All I'm missing is the custom front panel ;) .

 

BTW, this project was proposed 6 months ago. Take that AtariBox :grin:

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The XE version for sure. Although the XL one would likely work as well , but it could get in the way of a Rapidus.

 

I don't have either (just too many other things wanting my wallet), so I'll be reliant upon you and the other beta testers to let me know :) .

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1088XLD Custom Front Panel

 

Started working on this a couple of days ago, first in DeltaCad, and then in Front Panel Designer. Really don't think I could of squeezed much more into this area, but luckily what is there is spaced fairly well.

 

post-42561-0-90059700-1548967537_thumb.png

 

Now I just need to figure out the best way to relabel the case. Thinking of some sort of stick on metallic label that just covers the "1050" and respecify it as "1088XLD" instead. I just don't want it to look cheesy :-D .

 

post-42561-0-43709300-1548967896.jpg

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