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My homemade 5200 controller

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I think I will 3D print the buttons, because I can have them at required length.

The problem with buttons is that they have to be at a certain height, and the height is determined by the analog joystick.

The hole for the analog joystick needs to be a little bit wider then the top of the joystick which determines the height of the to shell, and the buttons.

 

So, the height of the buttons needs to be around 12mm, so this button might be perfect https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-switches/2-1825910-7/450-1642-ND, it's too bad I soldered mine already.

 

As far as the left/right configuration. I made a drawing in FreeCAD of the button layout that can be flipped and then subtract the holes in the shell.

 

I'm confused - do you plan to 3D print buttons or use the ones from Digikey? Or do you mean, just print the ones for yourself since you already built your controller, but others could use the taller buttons? That would make sense.

That said, if you finish your models and they print/work well, I'd actually be up for building two new boards (presuming Scott makes them continuously available) with taller buttons, and then having some shells printed to fit. :)

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I'm confused - do you plan to 3D print buttons or use the ones from Digikey? Or do you mean, just print the ones for yourself since you already built your controller, but others could use the taller buttons? That would make sense.

That said, if you finish your models and they print/work well, I'd actually be up for building two new boards (presuming Scott makes them continuously available) with taller buttons, and then having some shells printed to fit. :)

I will make both sets, one for us who already made the boards with small buttons, and another with tall buttons.

The tall button design is more elegant / professional looking.

However, I will make the 2 fire buttons custom so they can be wider (about 12mm radius) and more comfortable to play with, unless, someone finds taller and wider buttons that fit in those boards.

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Animan99, that case looks really cool! I hope you can do a writeup someday on 3D printing. It's something I've never had the time (or the equipment) to get started in.

 

DrVenkman, I have more pcboards on hand now.

 

Scott

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yea that is realy good work the top looks hard to make i guess you are going to make the numbers s,p,r flex buttons(3 cut outs and spacer) and have open areas for the fire button key caps

 

i hope you line up everything ok

 

i guess you are going to print it face down with concave numbers(for colorfill) i would make it a flat face with right angle walls unlike the back

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Animan99, that case looks really cool! I hope you can do a writeup someday on 3D printing. It's something I've never had the time (or the equipment) to get started in.

 

DrVenkman, I have more pcboards on hand now.

 

Scott

I have a full page of tips and tricks for my ANET A8 3D printer. Some people hate the A8 and some love this printer, I love it. It's not for ordinary people, but for us tinkerers it's fine.

It's a cheap printer that you need to assemble it yourself.

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yea that is realy good work the top looks hard to make i guess you are going to make the numbers s,p,r flex buttons(3 cut outs and spacer) and have open areas for the fire button key caps

 

i hope you line up everything ok

 

i guess you are going to print it face down with concave numbers(for colorfill) i would make it a flat face with right angle walls unlike the back

I will not print labels on the shell, printing the first layer is ALWAYS pain in the butt. I may try to print the labels on the buttons and see how it looks.

In the future, for the ones who use the taller buttons, maybe we can somehow stamp in the labels?

 

I'm reusing the back shell for the front, to make it smooth, the right angles may not be comfortable to hold. I could experiment later on with right angles on the top shell.

 

I don't understand this statement: "s,p,r flex buttons(3 cut outs and spacer) and have open areas for the fire button key caps" (s,p,r = start, pause, reset)

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DrVenkman, I have more pcboards on hand now.

 

Scott

 

Scott, I'll buy another board (just one this time) on Friday when I get paid again and can slip it past the family financial manager (aka "MrsVenkman" :P) I'm probably going to hold off buying the parts though until amiman99 is done with the top shell design. I'd like to be sure the taller buttons will work. I also expect printing the shell won't be super cheap, either. I have a buddy who will be able to print me one, but he's done me enough favors that I want to pay him for this one.

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The top part printed fine and it fits well. Made a small mistake with the fire buttons, they are skewd up/left a bit. The start, pause and reset could be bigger. Other then that it's good.

 

 

 

I do have technical problem.

The analog joystick is not working properly. When I press left, it goes to up/left, and when I press right, it goes down/right. Up/down does not do anything.

 

anyways to troubleshoot?

EDIT: ME BIG DUMMY! Forgot to solder 3 pot pins on the joystick. I will do that first and see if it works.

EDIT #2: It works fine! Tested with Robotron.

post-24138-0-33350000-1541471954_thumb.jpg

Edited by amiman99
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The top part printed fine and it fits well. Made a small mistake with the fire buttons, they are skewd up/left a bit. The start, pause and reset could be bigger. Other then that it's good.

 

 

 

I do have technical problem.

The analog joystick is not working properly. When I press left, it goes to up/left, and when I press right, it goes down/right. Up/down does not do anything.

 

anyways to troubleshoot?

EDIT: ME BIG DUMMY! Forgot to solder 3 pot pins on the joystick. I will do that first and see if it works.

EDIT #2: It works fine! Tested with Robotron.

 

Wow, can you make a 3D template for right handed thumb stick :)

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The top part printed fine and it fits well. Made a small mistake with the fire buttons, they are skewd up/left a bit. The start, pause and reset could be bigger. Other then that it's good.

 

 

 

I do have technical problem.

The analog joystick is not working properly. When I press left, it goes to up/left, and when I press right, it goes down/right. Up/down does not do anything.

 

anyways to troubleshoot?

EDIT: ME BIG DUMMY! Forgot to solder 3 pot pins on the joystick. I will do that first and see if it works.

EDIT #2: It works fine! Tested with Robotron.

 

The tall buttons would work fine I sure as they would have the support of the shell backing them up. You would probably need to make them round like you have for your start, pause and reset though as I'm pretty sure they are going to be round. Digikey has tall ones that would work depending how tall the shell is.

 

EDIT: Or do you have plungers in mind already that are square?

Edited by Shawn

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Hi, I hope no one ordered the 12mm swithes, I made my final measurements and 3D printed the buttons, the final height of the buttons is around 17mm.

for those who may want to use the taller buttons instead the printed ones then this button from Digikey is the correct one: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-alcoswitch-switches/3-1825910-1/450-1643-ND/1632529

 

For the tall buttons I would want to verify the diameter of the button, from the datasheets it looks like it's 2.8mm wide on the top. I could make the holes for the keypad at 3-3.2mm for it to fit.

 

I will post final design soon

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Ok, It took alot of work, but here it is:

(The round edges are not perfect, because I printed w/o supports to make it faster)

 

post-24138-0-52241200-1541609561_thumb.jpg

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Can that shell be sanded smooth with the filament you use?

 

Also can anyone with a board from the first batch confirm if I need to close SJ2 and SJ3 with a left handed setup?

I forget now as I don't have any left from the first batch aside from this one I'm setting up for someone else. I've

gotten used to the new pcb which doesn't even use these anymore. I think they might have been test spots but

I want to confirm before testing. I'm pretty sure I left SJ2 open before but I totally forget about SJ3.

post-7107-0-24206600-1541622044.jpg

Edited by Shawn

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Another angle...

Needs a little sand paper here and there....

 

I think the 2 color scheme looks nice, I did not like the top silver too much so I switched to white, looks much better.

 

I played few games with it and it plays very nice, I wished the 5200 Frogger had an option to play it with out pressing the fire button, but I did find out that you can play Frogger with the keypad.

 

post-24138-0-92323700-1541621693_thumb.jpg

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Another angle...

Needs a little sand paper here and there....

 

I think the 2 color scheme looks nice, I did not like the top silver too much so I switched to white, looks much better.

 

I played few games with it and it plays very nice, I wished the 5200 Frogger had an option to play it with out pressing the fire button, but I did find out that you can play Frogger with the keypad.

 

 

Wow, Do the printed buttons just rest on the button switches underneath?

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Wow, Do the printed buttons just rest on the button switches underneath?

Yes, they just rest on top, except the fire buttons, they have small hole that they fit into loosely.

I added a brim, so they won't pop out.

post-24138-0-52664500-1541627832.jpg

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You can.

But, I was taking some shortcuts and printed w/o supports. When the overhang angle is greater then 45degrees then you should use supports. The problem with supports is that sometimes it's hard to remove, adds more filament, and have more post processing (cutting, sanding etc).

Can that shell be sanded smooth with the filament you use?

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Yeah, that's pretty great! I really like the fact that you were able to print the buttons, though of course, a modified version that can accept the existing press-on Fire button cap pieces as well as "tall" keypad switches would be cheaper and faster to print for those of us without access to our own printers.

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Another angle...

Needs a little sand paper here and there....

 

I think the 2 color scheme looks nice, I did not like the top silver too much so I switched to white, looks much better.

 

I played few games with it and it plays very nice, I wished the 5200 Frogger had an option to play it with out pressing the fire button, but I did find out that you can play Frogger with the keypad.

 

 

Will this case & the 3D printed buttons work with my current controller without having to do any soldering and leaving all the switches as stock?

Meaning that the 3D printed buttons just sit on top of all the stock buttons as in the picture below? Thanks.

post-38693-0-32646700-1541635193_thumb.jpg

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looks great individual buttons make much more sense i was thinking you would have the buttons be part of the mold like the old moto razr but it would be tricky to line up the height exactly right it would have to be within a millimeter with individual buttons they can be higher or lower and its no big deal

 

if you have auto/rapid fire capability it makes frogger work pretty good

Edited by bohoki

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looks great individual buttons make much more sense i was thinking you would have the buttons be part of the mold like the old moto razr but it would be tricky to line up the height exactly right it would have to be within a millimeter with individual buttons they can be higher or lower and its no big deal

 

if you have auto/rapid fire capability it makes frogger work pretty good

 

Just get the hacked version of frogger so you don' t have to press fire to move. Makes it much more enjoyable to play.

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