Sega CD Model 1 Blown

[pixelmischief]

Found an "as-is" Sega CD Model 1 on eBay for a tolerable raping, so I took it. But you know what "as-is" means. Some dip-shit plugged an NES power supply into it and blew it up. These things are as rare as hens' teeth, so I am committed to fixing it. Below is a pic of the most obvious damage and another showing how it "should" look. I'll start with replacing whatever was at C22 and C23. Any idea what those are?

 

 

 

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Usually items marked with C for the label..means capacitor. I don't know the values right off hand but I'm pretty sure those would have been caps. Have to look up the schemes on the model 1 power board to be sure.

 

According to the schemes...they were SMD ceramic 100pf 50v caps.

 

Page 92 (handwritten) here:

 

https://console5.com/techwiki/images/1/16/Mega-CD_Maintenance_Manual%2C_Export%2C_August%2C_1992%2C_Rev_A.pdf

Edited August 22, 2018 by -^Cro§Bow^-

[Shawn]

Replace the fuse and voltage regulator too when you replace those blown caps. Most times this will fix a Sega CD unit. I've seen many where it was just the fuse and\or voltage regulator blown from doing something stunned like plugging it in with the wrong power supply. Sometimes the fuse just pops as well but seeing as it's inside the unit most people just think it's fried and toss them.

[Shawn]

One other thing, the drive track could be off as well. Check that both sides are in line with each other and re-grease it. The door getting stuck is another super common thing on model 1s. It's normally the track, the teeth or the motor. All pretty easy fixes unless it's teeth broke off the tray and not one of the cogs.

[pixelmischief]

Thanks for the info. Will this work for the caps? Figured I'd scrape away the board a bit, expose the traces, and solder the legs down to them. Can't imagine there is much reason to suffer through that tiny little smd anymore.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_2?ie=UTF8&adId=A04743583ELH5W5COHC7O&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FProjects-B-0002-B07-Ceramic-Capacitor-100pF%2Fdp%2FB00E6PJOZC%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1534943230%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26keywords%3D100pf%2B50v%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1534943230&id=6058172427835511&widgetName=sp_atf

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Thanks for the info. Will this work for the caps? Figured I'd scrape away the board a bit, expose the traces, and solder the legs down to them. Can't imagine there is much reason to suffer through that tiny little smd anymore.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_2?ie=UTF8&adId=A04743583ELH5W5COHC7O&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FProjects-B-0002-B07-Ceramic-Capacitor-100pF%2Fdp%2FB00E6PJOZC%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1534943230%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26keywords%3D100pf%2B50v%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1534943230&id=6058172427835511&widgetName=sp_atf

 

Yeap,

 

Should be fine and that is likely what I would do as well LOL as I believe I have some of these on hand from doing 5200 4-port power mods.

[pixelmischief]

Excellent! And while I'm at it, here are the regulator and fuse I picked up for the job. All look good?

https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Voltage-Regulator-Linear-Positive/dp/B07BDFMQF6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1534944451&sr=1-1&keywords=MCIGICM+15pcs+ic+7805+Voltage+Regulator+L7805+Linear+Voltage+Regulator+IC+Positive+Fixed+1+Output+5V+1.5A

 

https://www.amazon.com/10Pcs-Littelfuse-Pico-Fuse-2-5A/dp/B013OXXQWS/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1534944510&sr=1-1&keywords=10Pcs+Littelfuse+Pico+Fuse+2.5A+2.5+Amp+125V

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I'd have to double check on the fuse again, but I've been putting 2am output rated VRs in systems that I still use VRs in. They tend to run cooler than the original 750ma and 1amp output 7805s originally used. Those 1.5amp should be find though and that is good price for 15 of them. I pay about 1.50 or so for the 2amp versions each. Even more if I go with DC-DC converters. Those run about $6 - $8 or more each depending on who has the best deal on them at the time.

[Karrolls56]

@pixelmischief did you get this to work? I have the exact same problem.

[pixelmischief]

@Karrolls56 I'm afraid not.  In the end, I bought two broken Model 1's - one with a bad drive and another with a bad board - and combined them.  Yeah.  I'm about $250 deep into that thing.  I have to say, though, it was totally worth it.

[paul zemanek]

funny i got one with this same issue. i was thinking it was the caps but not i think its the Murata 200 part on the other side but have removing it and fixing this c22 and c23 and turing it on same area is burning through. im guessing those 2 through holes are working anymore after the first short and i need to run some jumper wires. maybe it will work this time.