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Yet Another Masterplay Clone

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I made this a couple weeks back, but haven't got around to making a video about it yet:

 

post-65374-0-84919400-1539392061_thumb.jpg

 

post-65374-0-54779600-1539392077_thumb.jpg

 

It's based on a design I found here on the forum by low_budget, using a DG413DJZ quad switch IC, readily available at digikey (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/renesas-electronics-america-inc/DG413DJZ/DG413DJZ-ND). There's a couple pots for adjusting the centering of the stick. As an alternative to my other projects, on this one I chose to put the buttons on the opposite side of the pcboard from the components, for what I hoped would be a cleaner design, once mounted in some kind of case.

 

Atari 2600 joystick plugs into the small DB connector, and a 15-pin 5200 extension cable plugs into the larger DB connector.

 

The black button is the second fire button, in case the 2600 stick is of the single-fire-button variety.

 

Scott

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I made this a couple weeks back, but haven't got around to making a video about it yet:

 

attachicon.gifmasterplay_clone_top.jpg

 

attachicon.gifmasterplay_clone_bottom.jpg

 

It's based on a design I found here on the forum by low_budget, using a DG413DJZ quad switch IC, readily available at digikey (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/renesas-electronics-america-inc/DG413DJZ/DG413DJZ-ND). There's a couple pots for adjusting the centering of the stick. As an alternative to my other projects, on this one I chose to put the buttons on the opposite side of the pcboard from the components, for what I hoped would be a cleaner design, once mounted in some kind of case.

 

Atari 2600 joystick plugs into the small DB connector, and a 15-pin 5200 extension cable plugs into the larger DB connector.

 

The black button is the second fire button, in case the 2600 stick is of the single-fire-button variety.

 

Scott

 

SIGN ME UP FOR A PAIR OF BOARDS!!! :D

 

Building your thumbstick controllers this past week actually had me thinking about trying to learn a PCB design program and laying out something like this myself. I'd even considered messaging you to ask if you had something stashed away I might use.

 

Seriously, when you've got a design finished and ready, I'm dying to get hold of a pair.

Edited by DrVenkman

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I made this a couple weeks back, but haven't got around to making a video about it yet:

 

masterplay_clone_top.jpg

 

masterplay_clone_bottom.jpg

 

It's based on a design I found here on the forum by low_budget, using a DG413DJZ quad switch IC, readily available at digikey (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/renesas-electronics-america-inc/DG413DJZ/DG413DJZ-ND). There's a couple pots for adjusting the centering of the stick. As an alternative to my other projects, on this one I chose to put the buttons on the opposite side of the pcboard from the components, for what I hoped would be a cleaner design, once mounted in some kind of case.

 

Atari 2600 joystick plugs into the small DB connector, and a 15-pin 5200 extension cable plugs into the larger DB connector.

 

The black button is the second fire button, in case the 2600 stick is of the single-fire-button variety.

 

Scott

What did you end up using as the controller pinout? Is it the Genesis configuration?

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These are available in the states around 7 dollars and on ebay and aliexpress for around 3 dollars. Probably would work out better for an enclosure. Also I think it's the same keypad used in the atariguy1021 masterplay clones.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-4-Matrix-Array-16-Keys-4-4-Switch-Keypad-Keyboard-Module-for-Arduino-LATEST/152875096171

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These are available in the states around 7 dollars and on ebay and aliexpress for around 3 dollars. Probably would work out better for an enclosure. Also I think it's the same keypad used in the atariguy1021 masterplay clones.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-4-Matrix-Array-16-Keys-4-4-Switch-Keypad-Keyboard-Module-for-Arduino-LATEST/152875096171

 

The 4x3 array with the start, pause and reset separated is my personal preference.

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The 4x3 array with the start, pause and reset separated is my personal preference.

 

Ditto. I also much prefer the microswitch switches Scott typically uses rather than membrane bubble-type contacts on those integrated keypad units.

 

Now, if one want's to "build for a case" using Scott's PCB, a search in Digikey shows literally THOUSANDS of switch types. It would probably take a bit of work, but I know there are switches with removable buttons that could be used instead. Find a pair of buttons/switches that raise up enough to extend above the top of a case and you're good to go.

Edited by DrVenkman

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Ditto. I also much prefer the microswitch switches Scott typically uses rather than membrane bubble-type contacts on those integrated keypad units.

 

Now, if one want's to "build for a case" using Scott's PCB, a search in Digikey shows literally THOUSANDS of switch types. It would probably take a bit of work, but I know there are switches with removable buttons that could be used instead. Find a pair of buttons/switches that raise up enough to extend above the top of a case and you're good to go.

 

I like all the button options from the microswitches, carbon dots on pcbs to the membrane keypads. The membrane layered ones can be tricky if they are not quality builds though. I just had one with broken traces between the layers arrive the other day.

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What did you end up using as the controller pinout? Is it the Genesis configuration?

 

I used the standard 2600 pinout, and wired the second fire button to pin9 on the connector. If you wanted to wire the second fire button somewhere else, you could probably hack that change in.

 

Here's the current order list, let me know if I've missed anyone:

 

DrVenkman - 2 boards

Airshack - 2 boards

 

If I've missed anyone, please let me know. Cost is $10 per board, plus shipping. I only have a limited quantity on hand.

 

Keep in mind these are bare pcboards only, you will have to source all components (almost everything can be had from a place like digikey).

 

BOM and schematic are up on my blog, at http://www.smbaker.com/yet-another-masterplay-clone

Edited by smbaker
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I used the standard 2600 pinout, and wired the second fire button to pin9 on the connector. If you wanted to wire the second fire button somewhere else, you could probably hack that change in.

 

Here's the current order list, let me know if I've missed anyone:

 

DrVenkman - 2 boards

Airshack - 2 boards

 

If I've missed anyone, please let me know. Cost is $10 per board, plus shipping. I only have a limited quantity on hand.

 

Keep in mind these are bare pcboards only, you will have to source all components (almost everything can be had from a place like digikey).

 

BOM and schematic are up on my blog, at http://www.smbaker.com/yet-another-masterplay-clone

 

Like this? That would be the same as an Amiga, although pins 5 and 9 would be analog, rather than digital, on the amiga itself (for POTA and POTB)..

 

Pin

1 UP

2 DOWN

3 LEFT

4 RIGHT

5 N/C

6 FIRE1

7 +5V VCC

8 GND

9 FIRE2

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neato it just needs a mono earphone jack for an aux button or just a header

 

and a switch to have the x Atari paddle on pin 5 as analog on the x-pot of the 5200.

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I used the standard 2600 pinout, and wired the second fire button to pin9 on the connector. If you wanted to wire the second fire button somewhere else, you could probably hack that change in.

 

Here's the current order list, let me know if I've missed anyone:

 

DrVenkman - 2 boards

Airshack - 2 boards

 

If I've missed anyone, please let me know. Cost is $10 per board, plus shipping. I only have a limited quantity on hand.

 

Keep in mind these are bare pcboards only, you will have to source all components (almost everything can be had from a place like digikey).

 

BOM and schematic are up on my blog, at http://www.smbaker.com/yet-another-masterplay-clone

 

I'll take two as well, I like the microswitches, too.

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The list is now

drvenkman - 2 boards

airshack - 2 boards

john_q_atart - 2 boards

protestarti - 2 boards

swami - 2 boards

 

Scott

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Is there any way or need to adjust up/down and left/right resistance values? I built a 2600 to 5200 adaptor years ago. I can't find the source, but there are 2 pots for adjusting those values.

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Is there any way or need to adjust up/down and left/right resistance values? I built a 2600 to 5200 adaptor years ago. I can't find the source, but there are 2 pots for adjusting those values.

 

If you check out the pics and/or Scott's blog post, you'll see two small pots to adjust the X- and Y-axis centering.

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I really hope someone starts selling completed units ready for use. <<<<<< HINT HINT! icon_biggrinwink.gif

I hope that was obvious enough.

 

This shouldn't be hard to put together at all. The parts for 2 devices, absent the caps, diodes and resistors which most hobbyists buy in bulk, come to about $20.

 

That would come down in larger quantities. If Scott made arrangements for someone to sell authorized builds - using his board design and paying some $$ per board as a royalty or something - this would be a big seller in the 5200 community. That's entirely up to him, of course, but there are a few folks in the AtariAge community already doing stuff like this in the A8 and 2600 world (e.g., Marlin Bates, 'MacRorie').

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This shouldn't be hard to put together at all. The parts for 2 devices, absent the caps, diodes and resistors which most hobbyists buy in bulk, come to about $20.

 

That would come down in larger quantities. If Scott made arrangements for someone to sell authorized builds - using his board design and paying some $$ per board as a royalty or something - this would be a big seller in the 5200 community. That's entirely up to him, of course, but there are a few folks in the AtariAge community already doing stuff like this in the A8 and 2600 world (e.g., Marlin Bates, 'MacRorie').

 

 

I'll be here, waiting to see what develops. I only need one device myself.

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