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Any way to UN-retrobrite an Atari 400 case?


Starglider01

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Hi guys, I was retrobriting the components of my case and the cartridge flap sank to the bottom of the hydrogen peroxide which I think caused it to retrobrite much faster in today's 90 degrees California sun.

 

Option 1: I could spray the whole case. Any idea of a color code?

 

Option 2: Is there any way to reverse this, other than leaving it in the sun for 35 years? [emoji2357]

 

Thanks! 11a4bb27b51ca3af02395ce80e87c869.jpg6224e8f4024796a9ff0d9682df6b7f62.jpg

 

Thanks!, Starglider aka ԹҽɾíƒɾɑϲԵíϲ's RҽԵɾ๏ RҽϲíԹҽs

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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I don't know if it will be good idea in this case, but I know one reverse method. I didn't try it yet, but I was reading on some guitar forum, that some people puts a white guitar pickups into strong black tea or strong cofee for a few hours to look them older. I think maybe it is good idea to try it with a small unnecessary piece of plastic for test the method. It's simple to test it.

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I've done the tea trick on guitar parts. It might work; guitar guys know it only works on ABS, which is the kind of plastic that yellows too. So I'm guessing the 400 case is made from it.

 

Tea works much better than coffee, no matter how strong it is.

 

I can't guarantee that the resulting color would match the rest of the case, though. Just that it'd probably be darker than it is now.

 

Of course, in my experience, if you wait like 6 months it'll be back the way it was anyway. Everything I've retrobrited has gone yellow again ridiculously quickly.

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Thanks guys!

 

I'm starting to dislike retrobriting more and more, in favor of a very light paint spray.

 

I went to Lowe's (American for "Homebase") and they knew the exact color match for the Atari 400, somehow. Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/GjFoicKos9KEFvBZA

 

Here's the end result! Full details coming up in my next video at my little channel. Thanks again friends! 584fbe674a94ba83472ce27b34fb9c2d.jpg

 

Thanks!, Starglider aka ԹҽɾíƒɾɑϲԵíϲ's RҽԵɾ๏ RҽϲíԹҽs

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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That looks great. One thing I did discover when working on the machine featured in this video (which was very yellow before treatment) was that if we assume the aftermarket keyboard's base plate was a good match for the original colour, the 400 (and 800) plastics were a lot less beige than many assume:

 

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That looks great. One thing I did discover when working on the machine featured in this video (which was very yellow before treatment) was that if we assume the aftermarket keyboard's base plate was a good match for the original colour, the 400 (and 800) plastics were a lot less beige than many assume:

 

https://youtu.be/FILXpqTrXdE

Yes, this paint matched the inside color of the case which hadn't seen UV. It's still pretty beige I'd say and seems to match the commercials of the time.

 

Thanks!, Starglider aka ԹҽɾíƒɾɑϲԵíϲ's RҽԵɾ๏ RҽϲíԹҽs

[emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic

[emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic

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I thought they were always a little on the "orangey-yellowy" side and not straight grey.

 

The C64 is the same way. Some say brown/tan, some say grey.

 

I wouldn't try to retro-brite a 400 or 800- they were from the 70's, and earth tones were the thing.

Edited by R.Cade
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The yellowing tends to return to the same level within 6-12 months, it does not take 30 years to get really yellow again. Also depends where you have it stored. I had a 65XE that was very yellow get pretty yellow again in less than a year.

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Jon:

 

The colorimery of the above picture is mostly messed-up because of incidence of (at least) two sources of light with disparate white-balance / temperature points.

 

The hints are the in BACK "garage" door,shows as "BLUE" (but, in reality, there is no such thing, as it is WHITE) and, second, the faceplates of the 810 and 820, which are more of a deep-dark brownish / charcoal (but show up as greenish/blue under RGB readings in Photoshop).

 

I remember all these machines when working as a kid in my favorite electronics / tech. shop, selling them day-in, day out. The following pictures resemble (closer) what I have in memory, starting with yours (WB-corrected) and one of mine, today (but under different sources of light):

 

post-29379-0-50828100-1540824433_thumb.jpg

 

post-29379-0-63697000-1540824439.jpg

 

post-29379-0-43967900-1540824830_thumb.jpg

 

post-29379-0-85281300-1540824836_thumb.jpg

 

post-29379-0-43458700-1540824850_thumb.jpg

 

In any case, these machines WERE NOT a definitive "gray" or light-gray, etc. Instead, more of a pleasant, tan / slight brownish-cream color... and made out of superior construction and plastic / materials than ANYTHING that later came out of Atari (fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it).

 

One key clue, as to evaluate how well preserved (and true colors of the exterior case) is the look on the left and right edges right UNDER the cart-lid (not the lid itself, but the actual main body) and compare to their immediately adjacent externally-exposed surfaces. Right there, color should match VERY CLOSELY (there should not be any significant deviation), and also provide a strong clue to the original exterior color of that particular unit. Furthermore, what you see there, should ALSO match the color observed when taking apart the case panels, and inspecting them on their reverse (e.g. the surfaces that remain facing INSIDE, not visible).

 

In any case, these are the "real McCoys". ;-)

 

Cheers!

Edited by Faicuai
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