AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariBrian Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 It could be that switch box . One that I had , I would have to keep moving the box with the wires plugged in while I kept hit the power button . I would have to find that sweet spot on how I had that wire bent . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 A few possibilities are the transistor inside the switchbox, or the small IC near power switch on the board. That handles the power on/off and distribution to the logic and video sides of the system. A 3rd possibility is the LM193 voltage comparator IC in the switchbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Q9 and Q10 are also suspects, switches straight in the power rail. Do you have a multimeter? We’ll need to check some voltages to take this much further. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 A few possibilities are the transistor inside the switchbox, or the small IC near power switch on the board. That handles the power on/off and distribution to the logic and video sides of the system. A 3rd possibility is the LM193 voltage comparator IC in the switchbox. how would I check if any of these components are functioning?, sorry for the stupid question but I'm not very electrically skilled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Q9 and Q10 are also suspects, switches straight in the power rail. Do you have a multimeter? We’ll need to check some voltages to take this much further. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I do have a multimeter, I can definitely check those components, i just don't know where they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 It could be that switch box . One that I had , I would have to keep moving the box with the wires plugged in while I kept hit the power button . I would have to find that sweet spot on how I had that wire bent . I tried that and unfortunately had no luck. I am pretty sure the power supply and switch box function fine since they were both advertised on ebay as fully functional. The 5200 is really scratched and seems to have had a hard life so the actual console is my main concern right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 The transistors are highlighted in this image. You’ll want to get voltage checks on collector and emitter junctions, and see if they’re shorted or open circuits. Prior to this, verify the switchbox and power supply are good (sounds like you’ve got that covered) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Downstream of Q9, Q10 is the 4013 that Zylon has mentioned. It could be the culprit, or it isn’t getting fed. This flip-flop is the on/off switch, in reality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 UPDATE: I was just absentmindedly pushing the power button and the red LED came on!! I must have pressed the button at least 100 times before it finally came on. unfortunately no video or audio still but at least I know power is getting to the button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 When you say no video, is the TV just snow? Or is it black? Or garbled junk? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 The transistors are highlighted in this image. You’ll want to get voltage checks on collector and emitter junctions, and see if they’re shorted or open circuits. Prior to this, verify the switchbox and power supply are good (sounds like you’ve got that covered) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It sounds like I'm gonna need a walkthrough of exactly where to measure the voltages. I only understood like half of what you said and I'm very afraid of breaking something. I'm not well versed in electronics as you can probably tell haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 When you say no video, is the TV just snow? Or is it black? Or garbled junk? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk just snow, absolutely no response to the console being turned on and off or being plugged in on both of my TVs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Okay. As Zylon stated, the 4013 is suspect then. You may not have to do anything fancy. It should be socketed. I would invest the .85 for a new chip and swap it out. Don’t do anything more, as there is little to mess up. Just make sure to orient the chip in the same direction as the original. There is a “notch” indentation that indicates how to orient the chip. Copy that. There’s a 80% that’s it as the flip-flop is print to discharge and has at least 14V on it—the old one probably crapped out. Try that and report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atari-dna Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 (edited) Here’s what you need. It’s fifty cents. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CD4013BE/296-2033-5-ND Also, make sure you’re on channel 3 or 4 as the console expects. It might be that simple...especially if you’ve had as much eggnog as I have... Edited December 25, 2018 by atari-dna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Here’s what you need. It’s fifty cents. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CD4013BE/296-2033-5-ND Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Will do, Thanks so much for your help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Here’s what you need. It’s fifty cents. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CD4013BE/296-2033-5-ND Also, make sure you’re on channel 3 or 4 as the console expects. It might be that simple...especially if you’ve had as much eggnog as I have Doesn't it expect channel 2 or 3? I have been alternating between channels and the setting on the back of the console and it makes no difference. But then again, I've had way too much eggnog as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masschamber Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Here’s what you need. It’s fifty cents. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CD4013BE/296-2033-5-ND Also, make sure you’re on channel 3 or 4 as the console expects. It might be that simple...especially if you’ve had as much eggnog as I have... I'll third this one, I've had this ic keep 3 different 5200's from working. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Also make sure the switch on the box is not set to "stand by". I can admit having done that at least once in testing stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Also make sure the switch on the box is not set to "stand by". I can admit having done that at least once in testing stuff. I tried it on both modes and unfortunately no luck still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 Ok, I got the chip in the mail today, eagerly took it out of its package, put it in the Atari, and..... nothing. I tried every mode, every channel, everything to get this think to work. I am stumped, I dont know whats next. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. This thing might just end up in my closet forever if I cant fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 I'd look into the little IC inside the switch box itself. I believe LM193 or something similar. Does the box make a "click" when system turns on, or at least when plugging it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 I'd look into the little IC inside the switch box itself. I believe LM193 or something similar. Does the box make a "click" when system turns on, or at least when plugging it in? I don't think it clicks when I plug it in or turn the system on, but I can't be sure since I am not currently at my dad's house (where the Atari is), I will check when i get back to his house on Thursday though. It does definitely spark. I sort of doubt it to be the switch box since I bought both that and the power adapter on eBay and both were said to be working perfectly. I think the problem is the console, it has scratches all over it and the controllers are disintegrating and covered in dirt. the whole thing must have been in a shed for a long time. Do you know where I can get the little switch box IC? It might be worth trying out if it's cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zylon Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pieces-of-Ti-LM393-Dual-Differential-Comparators-DIP-8-sockets-US-seller/131928961045?epid=1603940091&hash=item1eb7943015:g:55wAAOSwoudW3hyS:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true The switchbox I use currently, didn't even click until I replaced that IC. Then I had a playable system, but had to unplug for box to switch back to TV. Replacing the transistor as well fixed that issue and it works perfectly. You might also want to use contact cleaner on the board switch as well, if it's as dirty as you say. Edited January 14, 2019 by zylon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+-^CrossBow^- Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 Wonder if there was ever any update to this? I'm asking because I have one sent to me that the owner complained they couldn't get controllers working properly with it. I was able to get the pokey set and one controller of theirs calibrated and working and then shut everything off. I came back about 30min later to check another game the owner specifically wanted me to check and when I powered it one, I had nothing but a dark green screen? Powered it off..back one..same thing. I then tried a different cart...same thing. Tried a third and then no power at all?! Found out it was apparently my PSU as that wasn't ready any voltage on it now?! I plug in another 5200 PSU and same thing...dark green screen only. Changed out the 4013...no change. Changed out the main chips with a donor test board...and no change either. I can tell you I'm not the first person who has been in this 5200. I know this because it was missing the top RF shield completely and shows lots of black crud around many of the components. When I removed the 4013 (soldered to the board btw), it was nasty under it and the crud was almost like sand? So I'm guessing this sucker has been in water in its life. Either way cleaning that up and changing out the 4013 hasn't changed anything. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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