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What dumb little tech repair have you done recently that felt good anyways?

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I replaced the clock capacitor in one of my original XBox consoles. Nothing major, I'm sure, but I just started learning to solder and that was my first project, so pretty proud when I booted it up and the darn thing actually worked.

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Over the weekend I finally installed the NESRGB into my ORIGINAL NES from 1985.  It all worked perfect after a 72 pin upgrade. 


Well, I installed it with with a Nintendo Multi-out, wired it to do composite, S-Video and RGB.  connected it to my Framemeister via a SCART cable to my 65" 4K TV....


BLOWN away... PIXEL perfect on my TV, I walked to and looked from 2" from the TV and still blown away.  Waiting for the last parts to come in to finish up, doing the stereo mod in it before putting it all in the case. 

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I fixed my Famicom's strange no audio issue after a few years.

Sometimes when you'd turn it on, it was fine, and other times there was no sound. I tried everything: checked the voltages, continuity, replaced all the caps...

It wasn't until recently when I pressed on the on/off switch a little while turning it on that I noticed the sound came back on when I applied pressure to the switch.

So I cleaned the switch, put it back together and now it works flawlessly.

I can only imagine that the issue was caused by the dirty switch providing just enough current to run the system but not enough to power the audio signal.


Such a simple solution to a bizarre problem.

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This month I worked on two really jacked up GBC/Ps and worked on a project third of my own.  


GBP was a visually thrashed disaster so it got the screen speaker and board transplanted into a DMG designed style shell lens and button scheme I slapped together.  


GBC was scuffed horribly lens too and the speaker was fried. All replaced and the shell is translucent sapphire. 



The personal project was another hosed GBC from early this year I had already cleaned restored and put into a translucent charcoal shell. I added the fresh off the line handheld legend drop in backlight LCD and it’s stunning.  Also meets the power sipping Benvenn one and costs less also with no solder tip snip needed either. 



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Not really a repair per say, I did replace a wonky Sega Saturn modchip I got off of RacketBoy years ago with the phantom one, and I wish I had done it sooner. Before I had to mess around with how the modchip was seated for half an hour, if I was lucky, to get a game to start. Now it just works every time, and I can screw the case together whenever I find the screws. I hadn't soldered in awhile but it was a dead simple job. I need to get some projects to work on my skills. I thought about getting an AM/FM radio kit since it's something I'd actually use.

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Replaced my HTC 10's battery. Not as much hard, as it is tedious by all the cables needing unplugged. The big part is getting the screen off without breaking the lcd. I ended up scratching the lcd as the cards I used to cut the adhesive went between the lcd and glass. Also somehow goofed the contact button LEDs. Got the replacement board with those buggers, and I'll be ordering the new screen tomorrow. The battery is holding up, so I can consider that a victory.

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Finally got around to opening my WICO Command Control joystick up and solving the issue it was having moving to the left (required more throw compared with the right direction).  Just a simple matter of bending the corresponding leaf switch a bit inward, and now it works like a charm.


Not really repairs but...

- Went in and updated the FW for my MIST FPGA, installed some of the newer cores that have come out since I bought the thing (specifically, some amazing Megadrive, SMS, and PC Engine cores, as well as a new Atari ST core that's cycle accurate).  I also finally got around to setting up my USB gamepad just right for each core.

- Redid my PSP GO PSX game profile on my Framemeister.  The Firebrand X profile is fine, but he only offers a 1080p profile which means the scanlines look slightly off and the game window has larger borders on all sides.  I set up a new 720p profile so it would fill up more of the screen, optimized the picture for my TV, and got the scanlines looking just right.


As a side note, the PSP GO was ridiculed back in the day, but now it's awesome.  It can be synced with a PS3 controller for PSX-accurate controls (all four shoulder buttons), supports component video out to a TV, and with how easy custom firmware is to install on it, it's now basically the ultimate mini PSX system—at this point far more compatible than the PSIO, for instance.

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I fixed a disabled vintage mod!


I have been owning a 3DO for the past 5 years. There was something on it that intrigued me, but I never got around to fully examine it. Until recently.




You don't see anything strange? I guess it's normal. But that PCB on the right shouldn't be there at all.


After examining it and a bit of testing, it turns out that this board is a S-video to RGB SCART converter.


The PCB has writing in French. Clearly it's a mod that was done back in the day. It's confirmed by the fact this console is an US model - why would you go though the trouble and extra cash to get an US model when you have the PAL model readily available?


Answer : someone wanted to play games in 60 htz but had a TV who wouldn't display NTSC colors, only black and white (a common occurence in Europe until the mid-90's).


For some reason, someone later got ride of this, cutting the cable short. Why?

I decided to try the mod. Maybe it was poor and resulted in a picture so bad it wasn't useable?

Well, turns out, it's alright! In fact, it's really good! Probably because the 3DO S-video is really good to begin with.


So I grabbed a COM extention cord, soldered a SCART plug on one end, and got myself a SCART to COM cable. I really dislike hardwired cords, and that one would have been a bit under 2 metres long ( 7 ft long!).

Then I soldered the smaller end into the console.




Sure it's not a neatly fixed connector on the console body, but that's good enough for my tastes.


Then as an extra precaution, I added 75 ohms resistor to where the old cable was connected :



(RGB and Sync cables)

It didn't changed much on the resulting picture, but I prefer to know that my cables are neatly 75 ohms as the standard orders.




Welp, I borked that picture, but the ending result is great! I'm pretty sure most people wouldn't be able to say it's not "true" RGB.

Edited by CatPix
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