Mr Robot Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 On 1/11/2021 at 4:16 PM, skr said: If you pick "Gyroid" as your infill pattern you'll get stronger prints. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+skr Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Mr Robot said: If you pick "Gyroid" as your infill pattern you'll get stronger prints. Thanks, I´ll try that. Was a little bit afraid of testing all those patterns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+skr Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Ok, now I really have to go to bed and leave you with this, which I think is not meant to be like this, isn´t it? The left side is showing the Letters correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 I didn't like the way the Atari logo was squashed so I imported them to change that but the right logo on all the models didn't import correctly so I just remade everything. I've redone the extra 3mm width version and done double width 8cart versions as well. Logos on the left/right/neither/both sides for each model. Did I forget to flip the logos! Oops! I’ll fix that EDIT: Now with logos round the right way on both ends! Wide Cart Stand - Double Width - Logo Left.stl Wide Cart Stand - Double Width - Logo Left+Right.stl Wide Cart Stand - Double Width - Logo Right.stl Wide Cart Stand - Double Width - No Logo.stl Wide Cart Stand - Logo Left.stl Wide Cart Stand - Logo Left+Right.stl Wide Cart Stand - Logo Right.stl Wide Cart Stand - No Logo.stl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+skr Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Mr Robot said: Did I forget to flip the logos! Oops! I’ll fix that You just forgot to flip the "R" for a nice M.U.L.E.-reference. EDIT: Now with logos round the right way on both ends! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Finally got around to trying one of these and this is how it came out, really impressed. No issues, photo went a bit fuzzy due to lighting, looks better in reality. Used eryone filament, 203c , 60c bed temp. Took a whole day but worked straight out of the box. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) Nice job! I haven't printed much of anything on mine yet. Proper leveling of the bed and Y axis arm have not been achieved yet. The Y axis arm has been corrected from "factory partial assembly and testing", and I can seem to level all four corners of the bed, but once the printer goes to center to start printing something, the nozzle, in areas, starts touching and even slightly "gouging" the bed mat, nothing serious enough to ruin it. I haven't had time or felt like bothering again yet after spending hours on it. I even raised the Y axis switch from recommended position, so the nozzle wouldn't go down as far and then started to raise and level the bed to compensate (something shown in Youtube videos when adding a glass bed plate to compensate for thickness), but the last test it started hitting bed again. Edited February 2, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+skr Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 You guys keep my printer busy. Still need two or three more. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 I ended up going with a Creality CR6-SE, the auto leveling is a dream. I started off with an Anycubic Mega S and that worked great at first but deteriorated rapidly, so crossing fingers with this one. The CR6-SE had a rough start but it looks like they fixed the issues that plagued the kickstarter launch models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 4 hours ago, Gunstar said: Nice job! I haven't printed much of anything on mine yet. Proper leveling of the bed and Y axis arm have not been achieved yet. The Y axis arm has been corrected from "factory partial assembly and testing", and I can seem to level all four corners of the bed, but once the printer goes to center to start printing something, the nozzle, in areas, starts touching and even slightly "gouging" the bed mat, nothing serious enough to ruin it. I haven't had time or felt like bothering again yet after spending hours on it. I even raised the Y axis switch from recommended position, so the nozzle wouldn't go down as far and then started to raise and level the bed to compensate (something shown in Youtube videos when adding a glass bed plate to compensate for thickness), but the last test it started hitting bed again. I finally have mine back together and printing. Still needs a rewire but it's working. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 3 hours ago, skr said: You guys keep my printer busy. Still need two or three more. What your Bomb Jake is doing is the reason I made mine angled the way I did. Upright like that is good for display, the angled version sits nicely next to an atari during an evening of gameplay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+skr Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 6 hours ago, Mr Robot said: What your Bomb Jake is doing is the reason I made mine angled the way I did. Upright like that is good for display, the angled version sits nicely next to an atari during an evening of gameplay. That´s exactly why I meanwhile printed four of yours. When occupied with four carts, they´re even stackable. But the non-angled ones are comsuming less place and might come to good use when we finally can have meetings and presentations again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 15 hours ago, svenski said: I ended up going with a Creality CR6-SE, the auto leveling is a dream. I started off with an Anycubic Mega S and that worked great at first but deteriorated rapidly, so crossing fingers with this one. The CR6-SE had a rough start but it looks like they fixed the issues that plagued the kickstarter launch models. I'll get auto leveling eventually, but once I get it right the first time manually, I don't expect a big issue with it going forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 7 hours ago, Gunstar said: I'll get auto leveling eventually, but once I get it right the first time manually, I don't expect a big issue with it going forward. You'll get there and then you won't look back - just make sure you post some photos of cartridge holders! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 I'm getting ready to print one of the revised cartridge stands that Mr Robot has kindly updated but I wanted to try this first, and it came out perfect. I did randomly try and print a train... that didn't end well... so decided to do something smaller to get my confidence back. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 (edited) Hello guys 15 hours ago, svenski said: Hmm, maybe somebody can combine this idea with the cartridge holder, resulting in a cartridge holder that will hold 8 to 12 carts, that will fold open to make it a cartridge stand and will fold shut to turn it into something that looks like a smal suitcase. Would be ideal for taking some cartridges with you when traveling to meetings... Sincerely Mathy Edited February 7, 2021 by Mathy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivop Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 On 2/3/2021 at 2:47 PM, Gunstar said: I'll get auto leveling eventually, but once I get it right the first time manually, I don't expect a big issue with it going forward. Releveling has to be done every time, unless you print on a removable print surface, like glass with clips on the side. Because if you print on a so-called good bonding printbed. Well, it sticks so good, it takes a lot of force to get it of the printbed, and your leveling is ruined. Up to the time you cannot get it of at all, and have to detach the whole printbed. After that, you'll start printing on glass with a glue spray or glue stick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, ivop said: Releveling has to be done every time, unless you print on a removable print surface, like glass with clips on the side. Because if you print on a so-called good bonding printbed. Well, it sticks so good, it takes a lot of force to get it of the printbed, and your leveling is ruined. Up to the time you cannot get it of at all, and have to detach the whole printbed. After that, you'll start printing on glass with a glue spray or glue stick Well, I do happen to have a removable and flexible surface with clips that is made to flex for easy removal (though only use will tell just how good it actually works), though I do understand and agree with you otherwise. I didn't even know people would use 3D printers without a removable surface; mine came with the flex surface and clips stock, and it's a knock-off brand of Creality's Ender3 Pro (though it seems to be a damn good knock-off and very well made: Saint Smart brand). But I'm sure once I have time to get back to it and properly leveled, I'll be making plenty of upgrade parts and buying others too. In fact, I do intend to buy the self-leveling upgrade (and other upgrades I can't print) for it now that the U.S. Congress has passed another $1400 stimulus bill that all us tax-paying Americans should be seeing in about a month or so. After all, it's intended to be a national stimulus and what better way to help the economy than buying more crap we don't need! (I'll make sure I buy American where ever possible) Edited February 8, 2021 by Gunstar 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenski Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 Gunstar, from the photos you seem to have a pimped up Ender3 Pro, so we expect to see some pimped up Atari prints from you! I'm still experimenting with mine, adding text and logos - and need to use up the blue PLA which has been fantastic so far. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 22 minutes ago, svenski said: Gunstar, from the photos you seem to have a pimped up Ender3 Pro, so we expect to see some pimped up Atari prints from you! I'm still experimenting with mine, adding text and logos - and need to use up the blue PLA which has been fantastic so far. I like the recessed look! It allows stuff not to snag as well... very nice use of negative space! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted February 14, 2021 Share Posted February 14, 2021 I like that 5¼ inch disk box, very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Well, I finally got around to finishing leveling my printer bed and the Y axis arm and am currently printing my very first object. It is just a test puppy figurine that came on the SD card with the printer. If successful I'll start printing Atari stuff soon, but first a few upgrades for the printer. So far the printout is about a half-centimeter high and it is looking good so far... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) My first printing seems to be going very well. This is about 6 hours into it and it looks about 3/4 finished. Edited February 21, 2021 by Gunstar 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) So, after a couple of months of owning my Ender3, I've got the basics down of using a slicer and setting the printer up right. I've mostly printed upgrades for the printer so far, including fan guard/vents for the CPU and PSU, a filament feed knob for the extruder, shock/sound absorbing feet for the printer base, a tool tray and guides for the filament. I'm currently printing my first model that is not a printer upgrade, which, of course, in keeping with the thread, a double-wide cartridge holder. Though my intention is to use it as an Atari cassette holder. My first printing beyond the test dog figurine that was on the SD card that came with the printer, was the tool tray for the Ender3. Which turned out o.k., but I just used the default settings of the slicer/STL file without looking, and it turned out the quality and consistency of a disposable carton you might by blue berries in at the grocer! I then looked at the slicer settings and realized it was set for only 20% fill rate. I want printed models that last and feel as solid as injection moldings, so I make sure that all my model printings are set at 100% fill now, which is much, much better and sturdier. Though I think I either still need to tweak setting for my particular printer for better printing, or switch to another filament like ABS, as I'm still not 100% satisfied of the "feel" and print quality I'm getting. I'm also having an issue with side-wall layers coming loose from the interior fill (as pictured below with tool-tray printout). When I noticed it happening on the cartridge stand, I started sitting there and applying slight pressure to the side wall that was currently being printed on for a couple of layers and this allowed the side-wall "layer" or "skin" to get re-attached, and I did this several times throughout the printing cycle. But it left obvious "water line" marks at different heights where I pressured those layers during printing, but at least the side-walls are attached better than they would have been. Is this a print-structure setting issue? Or a proper heat level issue? Maybe a print speed issue? Or maybe it's just the PLA plastic and I might find I prefer ABS instead? I'm only choosing between these two filaments for now, as they are the only plastic types that my Ender3 has pre-heat controls for on the menu system, so I'm not sure how other types of plastic filament might work with it or not. The cartridge stand is salvageable and will be fine, as I'll finish it with some wood-putty or J.B. Weld or something for areas of the model with "holidays" (as it's called in the painting business in patches of missing paint or too thin a coating) before I lightly sand and paint it. I set this cartridge stand printing for an extruder temp of 205, and bed temp of 60, 100% fill rate and 50% print speed to attempt a better quality print than 100% print speed (which hasn't seemed to make much difference in the print quality), but one MUST be willing to have patience, as the print time, so far, with 81% complete, is 3 days 23.52 hours so far! Edited March 16, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmp Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 looks like you're badly underextruding, calibrate your e-steps, check whether your nozzle diameter (0.4mm?) matches the setting in the slicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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