Gunstar Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) @tmpI'll calibrate the e-steps, thanks, but yes, I have been making sure that the nozzle diameter (0.4mm) does match the setting in the slicer, as well as 1.75mm filament size. But I'll double-check that I didn't forget that on the cart holder settings this time (this was never checked in my first print out of the tool tray though, it was after it that I started learning the slicer settings instead of just loading an STL, and then sending the gcode to the printer) Thanks for the tip! Below are the current basic and advanced settings in the Creality Slicer that I'm printing with. Please let me know if anything is obviously "out of whack" or needs tweaking in these settings. Edited March 16, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Gunstar said: shock/sound absorbing feet for the printer base These can make things worse, get a paving slab and maybe some rubber washing machine insulators. 1 hour ago, Gunstar said: I then looked at the slicer settings and realized it was set for only 20% fill rate. I want printed models that last and feel as solid as injection moldings, so I make sure that all my model printings are set at 100% fill now, which is much, much better and sturdier. set your infill to a 3d pattern (they are stronger) like gyroid (my fave) and only about 20%. Set the Shell->Wall Thickness to 1.2mm or even 2mm, you will get much sturdier prints without wasting all that filament and time. 1 hour ago, Gunstar said: I set this cartridge stand printing for an extruder temp of 205, and bed temp of 60, 100% fill rate and 50% print speed to attempt a better quality print than 100% print speed Adjust print speeds in your slicer not octoprint or the printer display, just messing with print speed and flow rate on the display will not help you dial in the print quality. 205 and 60 is OK (I mostly use 210-220 and 60) ABS is harder to print and really need an enclosure or really hot room to do well, you will get bad warping if the environment isn't hot enough, ABS shrinks as it cools, thats not good in the middle of a print, causes it to peel off the print bed. It's impossible for me to see what is causing your issues while you are abusing your print settings so much, reset the cura settings to the defaults, select standard quality 0.4/0.2 set the print speed to 50mm/s (I think that's default) and make the changes to your wall thickness and infill pattern I suggested above. Print a benchy and we can go from there. http://www.3dbenchy.com/download/ Are you still using the stock extruder? I wonder if that has cracked under the pressure yet! Edited March 16, 2021 by Mr Robot Added Photo 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 39 minutes ago, tmp said: looks like you're badly underextruding, calibrate your e-steps, check whether your nozzle diameter (0.4mm?) matches the setting in the slicer New Avatar, what are you teasing there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: Are you still using the stock extruder? I wonder if that has cracked under the pressure yet! Still?!? I've only had the printer for just over a month! I've done a total of 5 print jobs so far. Are you referring to something by the nozzle or the filament feed by the y-axis screw? The filament feeder where you squeeze to open and insert the filament is perfectly fine still, but I've only ever touched it when I first installed the filament spool and fed the filament in when I first set it up, I'm still on my first spool of filament, otherwise it's been untouched except for installing a knob on top. If it's constantly under stress there, it's been performing like a champ so far; no cracks. Edited March 16, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 1 minute ago, Gunstar said: Are you referring to something by the nozzle or the filament feed by the y-axis screw? The filament feeder where squeeze to open and insert the filament is perfectly fine still, but I've only ever touched it when I first installed the filament spool and fed the filament in when I first set it up, otherwise it's been untouched except for installing a knob on top. The extruder is the thing by the Z axis lead screw (X is left/right, Y is back/front, Z is up/down) that you squeeze and push the filament through. I updated my post with a pic of how they break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_in_NC Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 I didn't have a problem with my Ender 3 stock extruder - printed about 10 rolls of filament with it until the Bowden tube (the tube that feeds the filament into the head) loosened and I covered the inside of the head with PET fiber 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 36 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: The extruder is the thing by the Z axis lead screw (X is left/right, Y is back/front, Z is up/down) that you squeeze and push the filament through. I updated my post with a pic of how they break Oh, I guess I must keep mixing them up , because I'm used too and currently learning/using CAD programs I use on the Atari 8-bit and Z-axis is used for depth in both Super 3D Plotter 2 and ChromaCAD, toward and away from the screen (back/front) and Y is vertically oriented. I thought that was the standard for 3 dimensional thinking for pretty much everything that deals with X,Y,Z axis (are modern CAD programs used for making model for 3D printing done like 3D printer too? With Z axis up/down?). This (as pictured below) is the way I was taught to perceive and understand 3 dimensions for traditional art too, and the way I've thought of 3 dimensions my entire life. I've even read stuff on aerodynamics and flight physics and mechanics regarding pitch and yaw, etc. (though it's been years now so I might be wrong about it), and I thought I remembered it being the same too. I guess that's why I keep getting confused when I'm reading other's talking or reading about X, Y and Z axis with 3D printing; it's very un-natural for me to think of 3 dimensional directions like is done with 3D printing. And I don't really see any logical reason for the Z-axis on a printer to be up/down instead of in-out either... Edited March 16, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 In your picture, where the eye is looking is above the printer looking down onto the print bed. Think of the print bed as your piece of paper or screen then the axis make sense. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: In your picture, where the eye is looking is above the printer looking down onto the print bed I see, and now understand, but I don't see any logical reason why it's done this way. It seems pretty arbitrary to me for "them" to choose correct orientation in 3D space to be looking down on the printer from above. But it is what it is and I'll try and keep it in mind. Edited March 16, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 5 minutes ago, Gunstar said: I see, and now understand, but I don't see any logical reason why it's done this way. It seems pretty arbitrary to me. But it is what it is and I'll try and keep it in mind. The print bed is the piece of paper you are drafting on. x is along the bottom, y is up the side, z is in/out (the 3rd dimension) On a screen we can rotate arbitrarily or use a different projection to the ortho we used on paper at school but that added freedom does confuse things. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+CharlieChaplin Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 58 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: New Avatar, what are you teasing there? Hmmm, tmp's new avatar looks like some PBI device. PBI2SD or PBI2CF ? So one can load ATR images without U1MB and without SDX from the PBI ? If so, expect questions like - does it include XRAM, does it include Covox, does it include 65816, does it include UAV, does it include xyz ??? Whatever it is, tmp, please let us know in a new topic! Regarding cart. holders, I am currently using large 5,25" disk / CD boxes for them, but they are very large and heavy, so I decided to buy wooden boxes from IKEA instead: Moppe with 6 drawers. One drawer has enough space for 14 (2x7) A8 carts, so all six drawers have space for 6*14=84 carts. The only problem with these drawers is their height, meaning once inside, you cannot see the front labels (covers) of the A8 carts any longer unless you take them out. So you may require end labels (top labels) on the carts, so you know what's on them without having to take them out of the drawer. The 3D printed cart. holders look great and I will surely test print one of them (errrm, ask my friend if he will do it for me, since I do not have a 3D printer). But if you have a large collection of approx. 300 A8 carts you need quite many of them. That's why I bought the wooden IKEA boxes (for my whole cart. collection). Think I will only put my mostly used carts (AVG, Ultimate, etc.) into the 3D printed cart. holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 1 minute ago, CharlieChaplin said: Think I will only put my mostly used carts (AVG, Ultimate, etc.) into the 3D printed cart. holder. Yes I keep mine next to the Atari, it just keeps things tidy. The vertical ones are better for display like at a show or event. Drawers are the right solution for serious collection/hoarding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 (edited) 48 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: The print bed is the piece of paper you are drafting on. x is along the bottom, y is up the side, z is in/out (the 3rd dimension) On a screen we can rotate arbitrarily or use a different projection to the ortho we used on paper at school but that added freedom does confuse things. Using 2D drafting directions for something being made in 3D space is what is confusing to me, not added freedom of rotation. My mind is too used to thinking of X/Y as an invisible plane directly in front of me, not below me, and even when drafting I still think of it that way because I usually use my drafting desk tilted up or when painting canvas with an easel, and I still think of X and Y as left-right and up-down. But I'll get used to it, I understand now, and am an experienced drafter. And thank you for showing me why I was getting confused with dimensional axis for 3D printing. Edited March 16, 2021 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 (edited) My first Atari related 3D print is done. Not a great print, but not bad and quite serviceable. A bit of touch up and some paint and it will look great. So now I finally have a display for half my British cassette collection. The other half as well as any cartridges not in the two cart holders shown already have a home in vintage Flip-n-File cases, so for the time being, I have all I need. So it's time to move on to Atari hardware cases, and I need to make a cartridge case like the original SDX and Diamond GOS pass-thru carts as I just got a reproduction Diamond 3 cart board to replace the original I lost about 25 years ago. I don't suppose someone has already made a model and posted a STL for an SDX cartridge somewhere already? I think my next print will be a case for the Ralph David XL/XE eprom burner I purchased from Dropcheck a couple years back, as I think she has an STL for a case on her site. So I'm off to go look into that, reset some slicer settings and whatnot as @Mr Robot suggested. Double-wide cartridge (and tape) holder. Edited March 17, 2021 by Gunstar 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Those would be awesome in a translucent plastic with "chaser" leds running up the steps. Each level could be a different colour, and they would cycle upwards. I had some gorgeous translucent yellow ABS right before my 3D printer gave up the ghost. I got one semi decent print with it. Speaking of - sorry to do this. Anyone need some super cheap reels of ABS? They've been stored in their plastic bags with desiccant packs. I'm not getting a 3D printer anytime soon and I'd like to get rid of this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hommerfr Posted May 28, 2022 Share Posted May 28, 2022 On 1/5/2021 at 2:11 AM, Mr Robot said: I made this cart holder. works great but doesn’t show the carts off as well as the one above. bonjour ou peut on trouver ce modele merci d avance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+CharlieChaplin Posted May 28, 2022 Share Posted May 28, 2022 9 hours ago, hommerfr said: bonjour ou peut on trouver ce modele merci d avance translation of the above: Hello Where can we find this model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mimo Posted May 29, 2022 Share Posted May 29, 2022 (edited) 13 hours ago, CharlieChaplin said: translation of the above: Hello Where can we find this model? https://atari8bit.net/projects/3d-printing/atari-cart-storage/ Edit, don't think this is the one you are looking for, sorry Edited May 29, 2022 by mimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hommerfr Posted May 29, 2022 Share Posted May 29, 2022 11 minutes ago, mimo said: https://atari8bit.net/projects/3d-printing/atari-cart-storage/ Edit, don't think this is the one you are looking for, sorry the stl is not enable on this site anyone have it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lastic Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 Don't know if this has been shared on AA, I found this design, I don't have a 3D printer but it looks like a nice design also.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4159170 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beeblebrox Posted August 28, 2022 Share Posted August 28, 2022 @Lastic I have this one. Very nice design. 😘 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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