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Arcadia 2001 RGB Mod


the_crayon_king

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Don't listen to past me (oh what a fool he was). The (RF) output is possibly inverted when using pullups but not the outputs that are going to the RGB mod. I re-re-made the mod and added S-Video, YPbPr, and Composite Video. I added a resistor divider and a cap for audio out as well but I don't know what audio might need specifically.

 

The link is still the same:

https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/arcadia-2001-rgb

 

Replacing the power reg should be done if there is any significant drift from 5V. There is a buffer here that should set the outputs near 0V for 0 and near 5V for 1 (assuming your input VCC is 5V). Anyway, at 5V 6.04k into 1k should give 714mv. If you need 700mv or 5V is too high (over 5V) just use different values for that section.

 

I added a big fat yellow line to indicate the portion of the circuit not needed if you only want RGB output. Everything is labeled on the board and I can provide a BOM if needed.

 

I predict very low demand for such a circuit so I don't feel like putting much more work into this (but I will change the 0603 resistor pads to the 'correct' size at some point). I will order a small batch but that is about it. I will go so far as to say this will probably work.

 

Keep in mind "YPbPr" here is specifically for old CRTs; I highly doubt it will work on anything else.

Edited by the_crayon_king
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31 minutes ago, the_crayon_king said:

I predict very low demand for such a circuit so I don't feel like putting much more work into this (but I will change the 0603 resistor pads to the 'correct' size at some point). I will order a small batch but that is about it. I will go so far as to say this will probably work.

I'd love to get a couple if you do a batch. I might pick up an extra Arcadia as a guinea pig unit. 

 

Much thanks for all the hard work and research you've put into this! 

Edited by robbievgb
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  • 1 month later...

YPbPR

 

So I got this to work again thus verifying the design posted here works:

https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/arcadia-2001-rgb

 

There is a bit of shimmer or jitter. The jitter is around the edges of the pixels and its why the image doesn't look sharp. This issue is almost certainly related to the clock not the kit. I messed with my clock a while back and I assume that is a part of the issue.

 

So the update is that the kit posted above is partially validated. I need to go back and see what the clock is doing.

 

In the future I think I much rather manufacture another version I have of this kit. It is CPLD based., which seems like overkill but that kit works on 6 consoles. You would lose S-Video and composite but there are many other benefits such as ease of manufacture, YPbPr and RGB, palette selection, sync on green, and it shouldn't be effected by voltages that are near but not exactly 5V (AFAIK). I have already used/tested the CPLD version and the results are more or less the same.

 

I am waiting for more parts to begin making a decent amount of the CPLD version;

I will still continue to validate this design in the mean time.

 

@robbievgb if you need s-video or composite I can still make this other kit; but I would much rather make the CPLD kit since it is what I will be producing en mass.

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[mention=43215]robbievgb[/mention] if you need s-video or composite I can still make this other kit; but I would much rather make the CPLD kit since it is what I will be producing en mass.


Oooooo a CPLD you say? I'm in! S-video and composite were simply a bonus as far as I'm concerned. RGB is where it's at for me really.

What other consoles this would work with? I'm guessing some of the others from the Signetics family of compatibles?



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26 minutes ago, robbievgb said:


 

 


Oooooo a CPLD you say? I'm in! S-video and composite were simply a bonus as far as I'm concerned. RGB is where it's at for me really.

What other consoles this would work with? I'm guessing some of the others from the Signetics family of compatibles?


 

Intellivision, Fairchild Channel F, Magnavox O2, Arcadia 2001, Mattel Aquarius, Game gear. Maybe some others and yea all the clone consoles can be made to work (I assume) but I don't have any to try with.

 

I did a direct capture of YPbPr with a datapath capture card:

https://i.imgur.com/yXGvCKa.png

https://i.imgur.com/fcCGAIr.png

https://imgur.com/6Y1vNvc

I just needed this to have a point of comparison with the CPLD version.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The kit would stay the same but the code changes. I have tested the Arcadia 2001, Intellivision, and Mattel Aquarious so I can only confirm those work. I will eventually test the rest but each console requires alot of time to validate.

 

EDIT:

So I have my datapath settings where I need them so now it looks extra good:

GEE5M0h.png

 

Edited by the_crayon_king
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have two versions of this mod a CPLD and a non-CPLD version.

One uses an analog conversion of RGB into YPbPr the other uses a manual conversion in code.

The point being that visually these two mods installed in two different consoles look more or less the same.

 

There are sharper edges on the CPLD version but I think this is an issue what that specific console.

These mods are installed in two different Arcadias.

I may try to match the RF colors for the alternate palette. If someone has approximate RF RGB values let me know.

This also confirms that adding pullups to the RGB lines DOES NOT invert colors output from RF.

9ZVzhve.jpg

 

RF Below:

vLNtreD.jpg

 

 

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Ok it won't let me edit; so here are direct captures. Keep in mind that the CPLD version is a bit darker than the final version will be (I used a 560 ohm resistor instead of a 530). I made another palette based of the Intellivision palette. Just sticking everything to 255 is kind of boring.

 

There appears to be some noise present on the output of the CPLD version (I see it on blue). I do not know if that is some sort of aberration from the datapath capture or something related to the CPLD triggering so many states (24+) on every clock cycle. I will research through an o-scope and see if I can figure anything out. Besides minor tinkering I am more or less done with this.

 

B6OTamv.png

 

uyA5lI6.png

 

xag6Eys.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

Interesting. Is the idea that the circuit is the same for all the systems you mentioned you just have a different "core" flashed to the cpld? 

 

That being said would the pallette be swappable by programming or by could it be swapped externally (say with a button or switch)? 

 

Sorry if these are dumb questions, just curious and excited no matter what your answers! 

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11 hours ago, robbievgb said:

Interesting. Is the idea that the circuit is the same for all the systems you mentioned you just have a different "core" flashed to the cpld? 

 

That being said would the pallette be swappable by programming or by could it be swapped externally (say with a button or switch)? 

 

Sorry if these are dumb questions, just curious and excited no matter what your answers! 

Yes the "core" and in this case the use of 3 10k pullup resistors is the only difference between all of these kits.

 

So there are jumpers to hard set an option or through holes to wire toggle switches.

Options are:

RGB (on by default); toggled or jumpered for YPbPr

Sync on Green (off by default); toggled or jumpered on.

Palette (option one on by default); second palette toggled or jumpered on.

 

That much is the same for all of these boards

 

The design and code of this is done and I will be putting them together any day now. Just waiting on one single part.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/19/2019 at 8:59 AM, emerson said:

I got this working a few weeks ago. My design uses the same circuit as my intellivision rgb mod, just had to rewrite the truth table in the GAL22V10. I have some blank circuit boards sitting on my desk waiting to be assembled. I'll post some pics when I get them built.

 

Edit: Your truth table matches mine except I didn't consider "1xxx" for white. Blanking is logic "1"

 

About that line that's ORed across RGB, the chip is a 74ls86 which is XOR. In my console the hardware doesn't match the schematic in the service manual. C0 from the 2637 isn't connected to the RGB XOR gates. Instead, the flag signal from the 2650A is buffered through one of the XOR gates then connected to the RGB gates. Again, this is just my console which had been opened previously.

 

Also, the color code signals from the 2637 appear to be open collector as I measured only 1vpp signals at the inputs of the 74ls86. Somehow it's operating outside of the ttl standards. On top of that, the 74ls86 is driving a 4069 and you're not supposed to drive CMOS logic with TTL. I placed 1k pullups on the color code signals and intend to replace the 74ls86 with 74hct86 when I install the mod. Hope this helps.

Is it available yet?

 

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On 12/27/2020 at 9:04 PM, the_crayon_king said:

I am not sure about Emerson's design.

Mine has been done for some time I had just been waiting for parts to arrive.

Anyway, those parts are finally here and I will start putting these together very soon.

When it comes can you message me and let me know? And I can send it to you and you can mod if for me?Also do you know of anyone modding apf mp1000/m1000?

 

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On 12/30/2020 at 4:22 PM, Brice T said:

When it comes can you message me and let me know? And I can send it to you and you can mod if for me?Also do you know of anyone modding apf mp1000/m1000?

 

The Arcadia 2001 board works and all the parts are in etc. The board can be made to work on the derivatives of the Arcadia but I need to purchase each variation and test them manually. I am sure I can make it work but I would rather not do exploratory modding on someone else's console.
 

There is an extra line on the PPU that could be used to expand color outputs. The Arcadia doesn't use this but I do not know about the others. I also don't know if the PPU of the derivative consoles uses the same exact PPU and also need pullup resistors.

 

 

I really do not want to work on a console like this that I do not personally own. Consoles like the Fairchild, Arcadia, and Astrocade kind of seem like the break when looking at them funny and I do not want to be liable for damages in the event something goes wrong. They are expensive and I typically cover anything I do. However, I can't cover a 150$+ console that likes to burn up sporadically.

 

To be clear I doubt completely that the RGB mod kit can do any damage when properly installed but the impression would be that I or the board broke something when it is just that the darn thing fried of its own accord. Those inductors in the Arcadia are a prime example of what I am talking about.

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18 hours ago, the_crayon_king said:

The Arcadia 2001 board works and all the parts are in etc. The board can be made to work on the derivatives of the Arcadia but I need to purchase each variation and test them manually. I am sure I can make it work but I would rather not do exploratory modding on someone else's console.
 

There is an extra line on the PPU that could be used to expand color outputs. The Arcadia doesn't use this but I do not know about the others. I also don't know if the PPU of the derivative consoles uses the same exact PPU and also need pullup resistors.

 

 

I really do not want to work on a console like this that I do not personally own. Consoles like the Fairchild, Arcadia, and Astrocade kind of seem like the break when looking at them funny and I do not want to be liable for damages in the event something goes wrong. They are expensive and I typically cover anything I do. However, I can't cover a 150$+ console that likes to burn up sporadically.

 

To be clear I doubt completely that the RGB mod kit can do any damage when properly installed but the impression would be that I or the board broke something when it is just that the darn thing fried of its own accord. Those inductors in the Arcadia are a prime example of what I am talking about.

I currently don't have either but I want to get one to add to my rgb setup, how much would the mod cost if I sent it to you? And would the japan bandi version work?

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  • 2 months later...

Whoops, I got too distracted by the Intellivision mod.

 

This information is only relevant to the CPLD mod:

 

6iCoym0.jpg -- (rgb, sync, 5v, sound)

DOS81yL.jpg -- top (blank)

vDrxCWD.jpg -- back (clk and ground)

 

 

The connection to the CPLD kit:

https://i.imgur.com/JFypjJD.png

 

I still don't want to install these. There are a pain to install and other modders could do a better job.

If you want to try to install the CPLD version just PM me or something and I'll make an invoice for one of the kits. If you can't get it to work then just break the kit and I'll refund. These consoles are too expensive for me to validate against alot of different ones myself.

 

I fixed the non-CPLD version which should just socket in. Then the only things you have to find are audio, blank, and sync. By "fixed" I just mean I loaded an old version since the one I had posted I broke for some reason. People can order/populate those without involving me (I don't have any immediate plans to make any). I don't know if audio needed something specifically I just put a basic resistor divider and capacitor there but if you jump C4 and R10 that should give you audio. Or just take audio from the spot shown in the pictures above. Ill add any other info to the page for that kit on the easyeda url.

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  • 7 months later...

Here's a partially modded console, I've been working on the last day.

It's a Bandai model, owned by a UK forum member, who sent it to me along with Crayon King's mod.

Board is the same as an Emerson model.

 

Parts for the RGB cable haven't arrived yet, but I connected it temporarily using component luma/sync connection.

Worked first time, but obviously black and white.

 

Using a Dremel to cut the pads, I repurposed the existing channel select switch as the palette switch, only need one wire as the ground is already connected at the switch end.  Can't test this until the RGB cable is done, but should work fine.

 

Recapped the electrolytic while it was apart, the 10uf on the reset line was well out of spec.

Noticed some ceramics had a white powder on them, like they had been damp in the past, so those got changed too.

 

 

P1070200.JPG

P1070201.JPG

P1070202.JPG

P1070207.JPG

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Done.  Of course I forgot to remove the solder blob on the component pads, and had to take the top shield off again.

I can see why you don't want to do mods for people on this console, such a pain with the shielding and no removable connectors to the switch board in the top.

 

Only got one game to test with so not sure if the offset lines near the ship are normal for this, or a problem.  Seen similar on some VCS titles.

Connected using RGB SCART, sync has 560 ohm resistor, brings level down to approx. 300mV,  connected only one audio line at the console end, and connected L+R in the SCART head, had to add a 15k resistor too, it was so LOUD!!

 

BVM picture connected using component with the same SCART cable I made.

 

Running from a 9V adapter as only the modulator was using 12V, even then managed to show something on my UK TV with manual tuning.  Easier on the regulator.

 

I think Geoff will be happy with your mod, he's never seen any video from it at all.

 

 

P1070222.JPG

P1070224.JPG

P1070217.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/30/2021 at 9:21 AM, marauder666 said:

I can see why you don't want to do mods for people on this console, such a pain with the shielding and no removable connectors to the switch board in the top.

Doing it once was an experience. Much more than that might burn me out. Model 1 Intellivisions are similar in the annoyance factor. Personally I blame the FCC. 

 

Anyway, it looks good to me. 

 

There may be a better spot to take the audio. I just poked around till I found an audio line;

It may be more usable if tapped by the RF output.

 

Also thanks for touching base. I have sent a few of these out into the wild but had never heard back as to their functionality. 

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  • 1 month later...

I took advantage of my time off from work over the holidays and I FINALLY got my Emerson Arcadia 2001 RGB modified with "Baked Potato".  It looks fantastic on my TV through the OSSC.  Great work designing these boards, man!  Fantastic!

 

If I ever figure out a good sound filter to clean up the background noise for the Intellivision Model II that I also completed with your "Baked Potato" board this week I suppose it would work with this as well.  It's not terrible, but it would be nice to clean up that background hum a bit.

 

Now...  on to the Bally Astrocade, the Fairchild Channel F, the 3DO, the APF MP 1000, the Coleco Telstar Combat, the Coleco Telstar Arcade, an original Pong, the original Magnavox Odyssey, the RCA Studio II, etc.!  Got ideas about getting your RGB board to work on any of those consoles?  The Bally Astrocade or Fairchild Channel F would be first ones on my list.  I'd be happy to experiment.  Just let me know.

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2 hours ago, KylJoy said:

Got ideas about getting your RGB board to work on any of those consoles? 

There really SHOULD be a 60hz sound filter board out there in the wild. I could try a few things but I would need to spend a lot of time trying different solutions (I am not a sound guy I am barely a video guy). 

It would be nice to have something like that; although I would probably never make audio a part of a RGB kit (unless absolutely necessary).  

 

 

Making RGB would need a different board/CPLD for all of those AFAIK. 

 

Fairchild and APF MP 1000 would need the bits accessed from the RAM (AFAIK). This means the kits would be wildly more complicated than anything else I have done so far. 

 

Bally Astrocade could use a mod like the TMS-RGB kit to get RGB. I think I may be able to design a kit like the TMS-RGB but in a different (better?) way. I would prefer to access the digital data and do it that way but I don't have enough knowledge to do it that way atm (it would be like the Fairchild to do it that way). 

 

Making a board/code for the 3DO shouldn't be too hard. Coming up with a clean way of interfacing with the 3DOs ppu would be the hard part. 

I could design a board/code to fix sync fairly quickly. RGB is already in a 8:8:8 format so you just have to feed it to a DAC (ADV7125). 

 

You don't even need anything complicated for B/W pong (also probably the OG Magnavox). It has Luma and sync combined to make RF. If your video is black and white then Luma only has 2 values white 700mv or black 0mv. You could get "RGB" out of a B/W pong console with a few resistors and a THS7374. Just tap Luma and divide it until it is 0.7V p-p then send it to three of the legs of the THS7374. That will be your RGB. For Sync just divide it until it is between 0.3V-1V p-p.

 

I do have a docket of consoles and how to (possibly) mod them which is what I just dug through for that info. 

 

Edited by the_crayon_king
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  • 1 year later...

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