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3D Modelling and Printing. Mostly on Topic.


Mr Robot

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Tinkercad is easy to get started with, but some things can be difficult.

 

I'd love to hear some of the techniques you are using.

 

 

One thing I haven't figured out is how to bevel the edge of something that is not straight. Say you want the top of a thing to have a edge that runs front to back with a curve rather than a straight line. I can create the curved plane, but I cannot figure out how to bevel the top of that so it is not a harsh 90-degree corner.

 

I'm sure there are tutorials out there. Perhaps I will do some investigation.

 

These look really awedome, by the way.

 

I have been wondering for a while now if we could recreate all of the plastic bits of all of the Atari things using 3-d printing.

 

Someone has posted a 1050 face plate. I haven't printed it, but it looks pretty close to the original. How cool would it be to be able to print an entire 1050 enclosure?

 

-Todd

 

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5 minutes ago, toddtmw said:

One thing I haven't figured out is how to bevel the edge of something that is not straight. Say you want the top of a thing to have a edge that runs front to back with a curve rather than a straight line. I can create the curved plane, but I cannot figure out how to bevel the top of that so it is not a harsh 90-degree corner.

 

That was the hard bit. 

 

I used alternate workplanes to draw against odd angles and used fillets to remove the edges, there was an unbelievable amount of fiddling to get that right!

 

I still haven't worked out how to do an outside curve on a three way meeting of corners. Look at this point on the 810

1586748265_Screenshot2019-07-19at11_23_50.jpg.32df86883b8fe4ac851371494c634764.jpg

There is a sharp line there where it should be rounded, I have no idea how to correct that in TinkerCad, I think it might be too complex, I feel it has something to do with getting a cone at just the right angle but it's beyond me currently. Luckily at the scale these are going to print it won't matter

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On 7/17/2019 at 9:43 AM, Mr Robot said:

I'll be putting the STL's on my website. I haven't decided if I'm going to offer prints as well, I currently don't have a 3D printer so I have no experience of the process... yet!

 

Well, hopefully it will all just "work" fo you. It has been my experience that often things that look good on the screen run into trouble in the real world. Even just printing one of each of these will likely take a week and that's assuming nothing needs to be tweaked.

 

Like I said, I hope I'm wrong and they all fit together perfecly on the first try.

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  1. Close but no cigar.

 

The bottom sheared off the front panel during print, probably need a solid infill for that little part, it'll make it stronger. The silver strip doesn't fit properly, and the bottom door is a bit tight.  I need to redesign the front bits mating surfaces and give the door a little room, and maybe make it a bit thicker. 

I can't test fit my sdrive, the cable is wired out the wrong side, it looks about right, the pegs on the bottom door fit perfectly and the SDM slides in to the hole, I just cant push it all the way with the cable there, I have more bits on order from afar which I shall use to make a new sdrive and test fit before I print again. 

 

IMG_1955.jpeg

IMG_1956.jpeg

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Everything is just a bit too tight. The UNO wont slide in because there isnt enough space in the USB/Power holes, the screen doesn't go in when plugged into the uno because they stuck the lcd panel on slightly twisted, the stylus doesn't quite slide into the storage hole etc etc etc 

 

The changes were thankfully pretty minor to make, except for the front panel and silver name panel parts which I had to completely redo to avoid some supports, when the printer finishes printing my new GBS8220 case I shall be having another test print. 

 

Yes that is a crack in my shiny new screen, I broke it during the filing/refitting stage ? 

IMG_1964.jpeg

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So. I’m glad it’s not just me that has these issues. I measure with calipers to a tenth of millimeter and then when I print it, it’s just not what I expected. 

 

I end up with boxes of failed prints before I get one that is what I want. 

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The shrink rate is anywhere from 2 to 8 percent depending on what the material is and if you use stabilizing fill to hold the shape...pla vs abs respectively.

 

some suppliers have blends so once you know the rate for each mark it on your material chart.

Edited by _The Doctor__
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This is all PLA so minimal shrinkage, I did print in draft so the tolerances are a bit looser too. The problem is this is my first time doing this, I didn't leave any room at all, there was literally no room for error. From the looks of it after filing, sanding, scraping etc, I need very little, maybe .1 of a mm all around. 

 

I've adjusted my negative space model so it should all have a little play now. 

 

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Test print #2

Stylus still doesn't fit, made the hole bigger again.

I forgot the supports on the front and drive close bar, it all sagged a bit there. Added supports.

Everything else fits great, I've added a little more room just to allow for Chinese manufacturing, if my screen is wonky, yours may be too!

 

I've been fighting with slicer profiles, I've tried CreAwesomeMod, Magic, Disney etc. none of them are as good as the defaults so I gave up with all that and went back to the build in settings... with a couple of 'secret sauce' tweaks by me.

 

Print time for the 1050 is a little over 10 hours

 

It's looking pretty good. Time to order coloured PLA!

IMG_1968.thumb.jpeg.0e6cf26a0e99b7c7f2bcacc9d17f33b8.jpeg

IMG_1970.thumb.jpeg.b97a4031f933788b81c4bfa3ce03d5c1.jpeg

IMG_1969.thumb.jpeg.178273e975c2c94b14df0db0cea9cbf7.jpeg

IMG_1971.thumb.jpeg.c7a7b0790b34c1e606f4835de49e0b8d.jpeg

 

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Cool, just picked up one of those myself.  I've been practicing with the SDM cases from your site, and getting really good results.  I actually found that printing them at a 45 degree angle gave better results on my printer, and a bit faster too!  Looking forward to trying out some of your new models.

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I'm definitely getting some interesting patterns in the print.

 

This is the bed side

IMG_1972.thumb.jpeg.fb99f294d0198c4391b3d7862f93e8af.jpeg

 

and this is the top

 

IMG_1974.thumb.jpeg.61ef4fd0455b40acb7ffb9a1fe01d9b4.jpeg

 

When I am happy with the model, I'll try one at 45 and see how it comes out. I've been trying to avoid all the wasted pla from the supports.

 

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16 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:

 

When I am happy with the model, I'll try one at 45 and see how it comes out. I've been trying to avoid all the wasted pla from the supports.

 

Interestingly the supports still generate relative to the bed, not the object. in CURA at least, so they are angled relative to the straight lines in the object when printing @ 45'.  No really long supports this way.  I find them easier to remove.  Although you can achieve similar results by changing the support type I still like the zig-zag.

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