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Polish.Gasoline

Intellivision 1 controller inards cord

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Hi there,

I am trying to get a controller to work properly.  I cut the cord and attempted to solder the wires on to the connector and being inexperienced I didn't do a very good job.  Any way to fix this problem any easier?

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Are you trying to solder the wires directly to the connector on the main board?

 

Why cut the cable, what was wrong with it?

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It was yanked too far on  the cord coming from the controller so I redid the wires.

 

I actually see what I did and all I need is an actually piece of the controller if anyone has one and I'll redo the soldering.  I just was in a rush and that wasn't a good thing.

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Is the problem on the controller end of the cable or the console end.  Either way you might not need any soldering to repair it if wires have been pulled out of place.  What model intellivision?  What piece do you need and what happened to it?

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Posted (edited)

I just need where the wires touch the metal part inside the controller to function.  I tried pressing them in and then i soldered them in a hurry and made a mess.  It's been over heated and it's trash.  I am 100% sure it is the controller that isn't making the connection since the wires were frayed at that end.  When the controller is held and tilted it disconnects.  I can see if it is pulled it would be the console but its when it is stretched and bent.  It's the brown one with a gold sticker.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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Posted (edited)

I see.  That would be the plastic "cable connector block" with the metal leaf contacts inside the controller.  Normally the connector block simply comes apart and the wires are pressed inside to make contact with the leaf springs.  I imagine someone would have to pull one from a broken controller.

Edited by mr_me

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Found someone that can send me a couple of those leaf switches on facebook.  Facebook is actually useful for a change.  To anyone looking for parts for an intellivision go to facebook.

  • Haha 1

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Posted (edited)

Ok.  I took apart the intellivision and cleaned it.  Now none of the controllers are really functioning.  All I want to do is remedy.  I had put in a new leaf connector and it isn't working either.  How do you suggest I test out and fix the problem?

I'm an avid learner lol.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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Posted (edited)

Did you replace the connector block in one controller or both controllers?  If it's one controller, open the intellivision and unplug that controller (note the orientation of the plug so you don't put it in backwards).  Test to see if the other controller works by itself.

 

While the controller you repaired is disconnected, use a multimeter to check continuity of each wire from the metal leaf inside the controller to the plug at the end of the cable.

 

The intellivision controller has 15 buttons and 16 directions.  Do any of those functions work?

Edited by mr_me

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Make sure the connectors are properly plugged into the Intellivision... meaning the connector from the end of the cord to the connector on the board.  It's very easy to miss a pin on these... or plug them in upside down.

 

I've done this before.

 

If the leaf switches are properly wired, you can take a Fluke meter (or any volt meter that has a continuity tester) and test the continuity between the pin on the end and the leaf switch.  I don't know the pin outs, but I'm sure you can find it by asking, or possibly if it's in the service manual.

 

I have to just ask... why did you suspect the leaf switch?  other than rust, or one of the leaf contacts snapping off (very rare), these things are normally bullet proof.  I've been fixing Intellivisions for 20 years and ever had to replace one.  You'll get a broken wire in the cord before a leaf switch will break.  Also... I'd rather replace the whole cord as a solid unit, than try to wire the leaf switch.  You can do it, but you need a plastic blade press tool, and really good glasses.  A plastic blade press is the tool you use to wire in RJ45 blocks.  A punch down tool would mangle the hell out of the block.

 

Just saying...

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Do you have the LTO Flash cart?  If you do, maybe someone can post the MTE201 rom.  It has the test pattern for the controllers which is a big help when testing wiring.  You can visually see the inputs. 

 

But like Mr_me and I have posted, a continuity tester should do the trick as well.

 

You really need to know if those switches are making contact or not before you do anything else. 

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Posted (edited)

I've rewired the connector blocks on a couple of controllers.  Didn't use any special tools.  It's a good idea to check continuity when doing this.

Edited by mr_me

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Posted (edited)

The problem with the block was I broke it myself.  I'd rather not explain.

 

 

The reason why the other controller isn't working is because I opened it.  Green is at the bottom, blue, yellow, black tan, grey , pink, white and brown at the top.  I'm pretty sure it is right.

 

Anyways I'll work on this on monday.  Take care.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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Posted (edited)

I don't think it's possible to put the connector block in the controller backwards.  Inside the console, it's a common mistake.

 

Opening the controller shouldn't break anything.  There's a pad over the plastic matrix and connector block to make sure there's enough pressure.  It doesn't work if not closed properly.  And make sure you didn't lose the white washer between the sheets under the disc.  If you cleaned it make sure it's fully dry before plugging it in.

Edited by mr_me

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11 hours ago, mr_me said:

I've rewired the connector blocks on a couple of controllers.  Didn't use any special tools.  It's a good idea to check continuity when doing this.

I've never had to change one.  Was it hard to do?  I've done a ton of other stuff, replaced board components and all.  I've never seen one of these broken.  What was the symptom and what lead you to change it?  I usually clean it well with metal polish and a dremel.

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1 hour ago, IMBerzerk said:

I've never had to change one.  Was it hard to do?  I've done a ton of other stuff, replaced board components and all.  I've never seen one of these broken.  What was the symptom and what lead you to change it?  I usually clean it well with metal polish and a dremel.

In my case I had a bad cable on a Sears controller.  I replaced the cable with a genesis extension cable and reused the connector block.  I just used my fingers but a special tool would make it easier if you had lots to do.  You just have to be carefull the wires don't move once you set them; that's why testing continuity is a good idea.

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Ok. It was for the wire, not the block.  I've run into that as well, but I had a spare cable from another unit, so it was plug and chug.  Good to know though, and I'll keep that in mind about the Genesis cable.  Thanks for the tips.  😁

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Posted (edited)

Hi, I fixed the controller that wasn't supposed to be the problem.

Now I'm trying to fix the other I replaced.  Continuity through the board to the controller is good.  The block is the right order.  Here's my problem.

 

I got it to work after clamping it a little harder with pliers but it still has problems.  There might be a delay in the press or it may not register after a certain point.  It works when it's like this not screwed in.  When it is screwed in, it doesn't even register.  I cleaned the back of the connection on the plastic and it was surprisingly quite dirty but that didn't fix the problem. 

 

Any suggestions?

 

Edit: I had ended up making it work some how.  Thanks everyone.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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Posted (edited)

Afaik.  I bent the pins upward further than i had previously to fix it and rearranging the overlay a lot.  After all that I found it actually worked better with it screwed in after a lot of hassle.

 

I need an opinion.   How abouts would you suggest I take the rf shield off? I orginally was going to clean the board with rubbing alcohol since I had found the reset went working due to spilt soda on the console.  There's contact with the switch now but I'm just afraid of corrosion in the future.  I heard a butane torch would do it.  I'm just looking for advice.

 

Thanks so much guys.

Edited by Polish.Gasoline

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It's soldered together so a good soldering iron should soften it where you can pull it apart.

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