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PEB switch missing-need pic


FALCOR4

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Does someone have a picture showing how the PEB switch is wired for an older push button PEB?  This PEB was given to me some 33 years ago in pieces and with no switch.  I'm doing a refresh on it (caps, fan, cleaning) to put it back into service.  Also, any clever ideas for a switch replacement?  Thanks!

Old PEB wiring.jpg

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  • 3 years later...

I found a switch on Ebay that seems to be a close fit to the original snap switch that is in the older PEBs.  It still has the duplicate contacts on the opposite side of the switch and an end cap that would need to be carefully removed.  From the information that @jedimatt42 sent me (thanks!), the original TI switch also had contacts on the opposite side but they were clipped and covered by a plastic shim.  Truth in lending, I haven't tried to install it yet but it does look like it might work. 

 

E-42153 SNAP SWITCH ISSUE M-284 686064495947 | eBay

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  • 2 months later...
On 4/26/2023 at 2:10 PM, FALCOR4 said:

I found a switch on Ebay that seems to be a close fit to the original snap switch that is in the older PEBs.  It still has the duplicate contacts on the opposite side of the switch and an end cap that would need to be carefully removed.  From the information that @jedimatt42 sent me (thanks!), the original TI switch also had contacts on the opposite side but they were clipped and covered by a plastic shim.  Truth in lending, I haven't tried to install it yet but it does look like it might work. 

 

E-42153 SNAP SWITCH ISSUE M-284 686064495947 | eBay

Have you managed to try fitting this as yet please? Am thinking of ordering a couple

 

Many thanks

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9 minutes ago, Atari2600PAL said:

Have you managed to try fitting this as yet please? Am thinking of ordering a couple

 

Many thanks

I haven't yet.  Been busy working on the house. I'll dig it out and take a better look at it this week.  Please keep in mind that I also don't have the bracket to mount it, it was all missing when I was given the PEB years ago. So, probably the best I can do is a crude fit check and to make sure that the switch operates in the same manner as the old switch (ON/OFF part).

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21 minutes ago, FALCOR4 said:

I haven't yet.  Been busy working on the house. I'll dig it out and take a better look at it this week.  Please keep in mind that I also don't have the bracket to mount it, it was all missing when I was given the PEB years ago. So, probably the best I can do is a crude fit check and to make sure that the switch operates in the same manner as the old switch (ON/OFF part).

Forgot about that. The more I look at images I took inside my PEB I'm not convinced the switch will fit on the existing bracket.

 

Am going to try a Kenwood amplifier power switch as it seems to be a pretty good match from the pictures I've seen, won't know for sure until it arrives though

 

Thanks 

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21 hours ago, Atari2600PAL said:

Don't know if these pictures might help you with your project, but thought I may as well post them

 

 

Yes, those are very helpful, thank you for posting them.  To close the loop, here are a couple more pics of the switch I currently have.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.45de4d7955d3db49a1c304da1337f41a.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.c8d529451697e9a3c9950b03fe1dba97.jpeg

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7 minutes ago, FALCOR4 said:

Yes, those are very helpful, thank you for posting them.  To close the loop, here are a couple more pics of the switch I currently have.

 

If the one I have coming isn't at least 240v rated I'll get one of those I think and see how I get on. Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have received the switch. It shows as 250v which seems ok and has the same part E-42153 on it (but I don't know if this is all there is to it)

 

Biggest issue seems to be that it has terminals on both sides, which won't work well with the switch mount plate in the PEB

 

Not sure how to test the switch to see if the terminals are all connected the same as the one in the PEB as I don't know what wire is what. This is going to be fun, not.

 

image.jpeg.286a857cf13439ebe43a33c23cb0631c.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.02a9dbe9628fb080cf08a9ea3de562c6.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.2e7ebd22965802bcf0b443b513be46b7.jpeg

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5 minutes ago, FALCOR4 said:

@jedimatt42 told me that the TI switch also had terminals on both sides but they were snipped off on one side and covered with a piece of plastic, IIRC.

From your picture, I'd say the black terminal are ground terminals, grounded to the encasement. If so you probably clip those, file down the nubs, and apply tape or liquid rubber to seal it. But I could be wrong too.

 

I thought I had made a mistake once, but I was mistaken......;)

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12 hours ago, RickyDean said:

From your picture, I'd say the black terminal are ground terminals, grounded to the encasement. If so you probably clip those, file down the nubs, and apply tape or liquid rubber to seal it. But I could be wrong too.

 

I thought I had made a mistake once, but I was mistaken......;)

Not sure at the moment. The metal rod part of the switch is on the black terminal side and on the original switch the rod is on the side used

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Just checked the switch with a continuity meter

 

Each black / silver (on opposite side) pair are always continuous so I guess I can use either side

 

It also shows each of the terminals nearest the label end gets continuity with the equivalent side terminal in the 2nd row when the switch is on and breaks continuity when off

 

So I think I just need to look at the cabling to the existing switch to confirm which terminal should go where. Or even easier would be to just test the old switch when I take it out I guess

 

Hopefully get time to fit it at the weekend sometime 

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None of the switch terminals are to ground. This is opening (off) and closing (on) (when in the pushed in position) the 2 AC leads from the actual rear power plug. White has continuity to white only when closed, red has continuity to red only when closed. 

 

White connects from the power socket, through the switch, and into the transformer. If I recall correctly, red connects from the power socket, through the switch, through the external fuse socket, and then into the transformer. The switch never closes white and red to each other. 

 

Ground is connected from the power jack 3rd prong to the chassis. It never touches the switch. 

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11 minutes ago, jedimatt42 said:

None of the switch terminals are to ground. This is opening (off) and closing (on) (when in the pushed in position) the 2 AC leads from the actual rear power plug. White has continuity to white only when closed, red has continuity to red only when closed. 

 

White connects from the power socket, through the switch, and into the transformer. If I recall correctly, red connects from the power socket, through the switch, through the external fuse socket, and then into the transformer. The switch never closes white and red to each other. 

 

Ground is connected from the power jack 3rd prong to the chassis. It never touches the switch. 

Many thanks @jedimatt42, sounds like it should be straightforward enough even for me then!

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I've found time this evening to strip down the PEB ready to sort this weekend

 

The replacement switch seems to be a perfect a fit thankfully

 

I'll have to solder (and sleeve) the leads onto the new switch though so am using the black terminals (the original also seems to of been using them, difficult to be 100% sure as the terminals disintegrated getting the leads off)

 

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