DOUBLEDOWN Custom ColecoVision Controllers

[doubledown]

Well I've got about a hundred disc knobs, and controller cords, but not really many spare joystick shafts.  I've probably got a few laying around, but every once in a while when rebuilding a controller, I need spare parts due to damage, so I like to keep those bits around.  There are plenty of controllers on ebay for spares obviously.  

[SHaMROCK 73]

46 minutes ago, doubledown said:

Well I've got about a hundred disc knobs, and controller cords, but not really many spare joystick shafts.  I've probably got a few laying around, but every once in a while when rebuilding a controller, I need spare parts due to damage, so I like to keep those bits around.  There are plenty of controllers on ebay for spares obviously.  

OK, no problem.  Thank anyway...

[doubledown]

Just as one last reminder, the themed Coleco hand controllers and Spectravideo SV-103 controllers that I have available are still accepting offers untill 10:05 PM eastern time tonight:

 

POST

 

As of now these all 6 of these are 1 of a kind customs, and possibly/probably won't be made again due to dye availability.  Only the Carnival controller and Buck Rogers SV-103 use standard colors of dye which would allow for easy (low order number) reproductions.  

 

[doubledown]

Unveiling the inevitable...Super Action Edition Super Arcade Controller:

 

 

If you feel like I've made a mistake, perhaps you'd prefer this:

 

 

But allow me to educate the uneducated (those whom don't read instruction manuals).  Here are the 14 instances mentioning the colors of the SAC buttons from the 7 games that made use of them (please note my highlighted sections):

 

 

 

The fact is only Super Action Football (U.S. Football) calls the 2nd SAC button red, its referred to as orange in every other game, and there is no mention of colors in the actual manual for the SACs.  I will grant that the actual "orange" SAC button is a very red-shade orange, or a lightly orange-shade red, so the 2nd picture, the red button variant, actually looks closer, but is kind of wrong.  Regardless, of opinion or semantics, when I offer this edition for sale I will allow the buyer to select if they want the textually correct "orange edition", or the more visually correct "red edition."

 

Enjoy!

 

[doubledown]

Unveiling the Limited Edition (only 2 will be made) - #2495 Display Edition - VVG Joystick Controller:

 

 

Based on the ColecoVision kiosk:

 

 

Theme features:

 

* White outlined ColecoVision logo marquee

* "The Arcade Quality Video Game System" tag line text

* CPO features ColecoVision Console/Donkey Kong instructions and artwork (re-created from the original which I use to possess)

* Red ball-top joystick w/chrome shaft

* Red "left" button (concave)

* Green "right button (concave)

* 12 button keypad overlay modeled after the original

 

As there are only 2 known, near complete, ColecoVision kiosk displays, this edition will be limited to a quantity of 2, and I am keeping this one as my joystick controller.  

 

[jben]

can you fix my Colecovision?

[doubledown]

Unveiling...the Zaxxon Edition - VVG Grip Controller

 

 

 

 

 

 

So wanting to make a Zaxxon edition joystick controller I needed some kind of pistol grip joystick.  I looked at a couple of options for adding a pistol grip to a new Seimitsu or Sanwa joystick, but all of those joysticks can spin which means the pistol grip will rotate out of proper orientation.  As I was searching ebay for some other controllers I came across the Sega Saturn Twin Stick controller, which I happen to own one of.  

 

 

So I found it, tore it apart, and realized I could make it work.  I removed the 2nd joystick, added 2 buttons and a 12 button keypad, then painted the housing and grip black like the Zaxxon arcade cabinet.  I left the joystick's finger activated trigger button intact as a alternate Fire button, like the Zaxxon arcade cabinet, but I deleted the thumb button's functionality.  So we have a Zaxxon themed pistol grip 8-way joystick, with 2 buttons (plus alternate left fire button wired to trigger), and a 12 button keypad, compatible with most ColecoVision games.  

 

Enjoy.

[TPR]

Oh man, that Zaxxon one is great!

[doubledown]

1 hour ago, TPR said:

Oh man, that Zaxxon one is great!

Thanks, it really is.  The more I look at it, the more I like it. 

[retroillucid]

On 8/31/2019 at 12:56 PM, doubledown said:

Unveiling the Limited Edition (only 2 will be made) - #2495 Display Edition - VVG Joystick Controller:

 

 

Based on the ColecoVision kiosk:

 

 

Theme features:

 

* White outlined ColecoVision logo marquee

* "The Arcade Quality Video Game System" tag line text

* CPO features ColecoVision Console/Donkey Kong instructions and artwork (re-created from the original which I use to possess)

* Red ball-top joystick w/chrome shaft

* Red "left" button (concave)

* Green "right button (concave)

* 12 button keypad overlay modeled after the original

 

As there are only 2 known, near complete, ColecoVision kiosk displays, this edition will be limited to a quantity of 2, and I am keeping this one as my joystick controller.  

 

Love this one!

Did you scanned some parts of the POP Kiosk?
Would love to have scans of it

[doubledown]

I have scans of the CPO and the assembly instruction manual.  The posters and doors were too big for me to scan, and as I was never going to "rebuild" a clone I never looked into having them scanned. 

[retroillucid]

19 hours ago, doubledown said:

I have scans of the CPO and the assembly instruction manual.  The posters and doors were too big for me to scan, and as I was never going to "rebuild" a clone I never looked into having them scanned. 

I would be interested in archiving those if don't mind sending them to me

[doubledown]

With the blessing of J-F, and the use of the CollectorVision Phoenix artwork files, I present you with...

 

the CollectorVision Phoenix Edition - VVG Joystick Controller

 

 

Featuring:

 

Seimitsu LS-32 black ball-knob joystick controller (8-way / 4-way / 2-way configurable)

(2) Dark Gray Sanwa OBSFS "Silent" pushbuttons

Eladdin CV I/O board w/Keypad

and additionally, the controller's original "Start" button was dyed dark gray, and is wired as a duplicate * keypad key, for restarting ColecoVision games, after your game has ended

 

Enjoy!

[doubledown]

I've started an official pre-order / purchase thread for my new ColecoVision Joystick & Grip controllers previously unveiled in this thread:

 

LINK

 

 

[KTRA]

On 9/6/2019 at 6:50 PM, doubledown said:

With the blessing of J-F, and the use of the CollectorVision Phoenix artwork files, I present you with...

 

the CollectorVision Phoenix Edition - VVG Joystick Controller

 

 

Featuring:

 

Seimitsu LS-32 black ball-knob joystick controller (8-way / 4-way / 2-way configurable)

(2) Dark Gray Sanwa OBSFS "Silent" pushbuttons

Eladdin CV I/O board w/Keypad

and additionally, the controller's original "Start" button was dyed dark gray, and is wired as a duplicate * keypad key, for restarting ColecoVision games, after your game has ended

 

Enjoy!

This is my first time in this forum thing. How do I get one of these controllers?

[doubledown]

1 hour ago, KTRA said:

This is my first time in this forum thing. How do I get one of these controllers?

Welcome.  I've started a pre-order/purchase thread for the available models & and editions of these controllers:

 

HERE

 

Read through the details in the first post, then if you're interested post a reply in that thread.

[doubledown]

FYI...if anybody is interested in a 2 player VVG Joystick Controller for their ColecoVision here is the donor we need (and I would love to make it):

 

 

Its the Sega Saturn HSS-0130, but unfortunately the least expensive one on ebay is about $425.00 USD for just the donor.  A few have mentioned the idea of me making a dual themed controller with DK/DKJ or PM/MPM, this is the size of controller I'd need for it.  This isn't a project I'm jumping into right now, but just know the possibility is there.  Would probably end up costing about $750 or so when all said in done...feel free to ponder the idea, and the possibilities!

[doubledown]

So I know it's been 17 days since I unveiled my last controller...sorry for the delay...but I think it was worth the wait.  

 

I proudly unveil the Mouse Trap Edition - VVG Experience Controller:

 

 

And before anybody asks...of course the buttons light up!

 

 

So it was a labor of love (and money) to provide a proper way to play Mouse Trap as it was intended.  Yes it's possible with the hand controllers and their keypad, but it's no substitute for the arcade experience.  

 

So built into my 20" aluminum enclosure its slightly scaled down from the original, but still awe inspiring and magnificent. 

 

It features:

 

*Seimitsu LS-32 joystick with blue ball knob (4-way)

* 1 Red, 1 Yellow, and 1 Blue large square Happ illuminated pushbuttons (with LED replacement bulbs)

* 1 Green (with silk screened dog logo) large round Happ illuminated pushbutton (with LED replacement bulb)

* 2 Silver volcano P1/P2 player start buttons (with LED bulbs)

* 1 Built-in battery compartment (upper left corner, left of the Mouse Trap marquee).  The pull out tray accepts (4) AA batteries and runs best at 5VDC, so either 1 dummy cell and 3 dry cells (4.5VDC), or 4 rechargeable AA batteries (4.8VDC).  The power switch for the LEDs is the first button to the right of the upper Mouse Trap marquee, and features a flip cover to prevent accidental turn on/turn off.  I did a lifespan test this past weekend, and 3 Alkalines lasted about 13.5 hours before the voltage dropped below 3.5 VDC (where the LEDs get noticeably dim), and 8.5 hours for the NiMh rechargeables.  And keep in mind the illumination has nothing to do with the function of the controller, so it can be used with the lights on or off.

* Selector switch (upper right corner) for selecting Skill Level.  The 4 position, double pole rotary switch is wired in line with the PCB and the P1/P2 buttons.  So if you select Skill 1 on the rotary switch, it connects the P1 button to keypad 1, and the P2 button to keypad 5, and so on through 2, 3, & 4.  So if you select Skill 2 on the rotary switch, and press the P1 button, it is the same as pressing 2 on the keypad for a 1 player, skill 2 game.  I did this as something different that I wanted to try, as I didn't want to have to install a keypad, which would take away from the arcade aesthetics.    

* Menu button is the momentary button (with flip cover) in the upper right area between the power switch and the selector switch.  It is wired to the # keypad key to return you to the menu after your game is over, at which point you can select your desired skill level via the rotary switch, then press your desired P1/P2 start button to start your next game.

* CPO artwork duplicates the actual arcade artwork, including the arcade game's instructional text, directly above the joystick area.  

* Additionally I painted the vertical sides of the enclosure white like the original arcade game, but obviously from this angle and the white background its impossible to see.  

 

Take it all in...and enjoy!

[+sixersfan105]

Dude your controllers/joysticks are incredible! I don't own one yet but just stating the obvious based on this thread and others. Hopefully in time I will pick one up. Keep up the stellar work!

[doubledown]

Thank you.  It's nice to see it finally assembled.  I've been working with it/on it, for the last 3 or 4 weeks, with artwork design and layout, component selection, and waiting for parts to come in to see if they would work, then ordering and waiting for replacements if not.  It came out beautifully, even better than I had envisioned.  As there are no "fire" buttons wired, (the red/yellow/blue/green buttons are wired to 1,2,3,5) It'll work for Mouse Trap, and any game that doesn't require "fire" buttons, like Frogger, Pac-Man, Q*bert and the likes.  But that's fine with me, my Arcade Experience line of controllers are designed to provide the "arcade experience" for that 1 game, if they happen to work for others...bonus I guess.  This is now officially the most expensive controller I've ever made, cost-wise, and I love everything about it.  It will be right at home here with my Defender Edition Arcade Experience Controller, and any other editions I come up with in the future.  

[doubledown]

So I've received the same 2 questions from a few different members over the last couple of days regarding my Defender & Mouse Trap Edition - VVG Experience Controllers so I thought I post these here, so that everybody is in the know.  

 

1) How big are they? - The aluminum enclosures used are 20.00" wide, 11.25" deep, and 4.00" high at the back edge with a 10 degree slope.  So for a visual comparison here's this:

 

 

Remember these are "Experience Controllers", purposefully built to closely replicate the experience of their corresponding arcade games.  That being said, while they are heavy enough to be nice and stable on a desk, they are also light enough to be played with in your lap.  I played 20 minutes of Mouse Trap with this one in my lap last night with my feet up on the desk.

 

2) How much do they cost?  As of now these controller models/editions are not for sale.  And by that I mean two things, a) these two specific controllers are not for sale as I built them for myself, and b), my plate is currently full with the VVG Joystick Controller builds, and a few other custom controller designs that I'm working on.  With that being said, once the the pre-ordered controllers get built and shipped, and I finish the few other designs I've got in my mind, I'll have to sit down and add up their individual costs to come up with some pricing.  Thanks again for looking, all of the interest, and the inquiries, and I'll continue to post new controller designs here as they become finalized.  Stay tuned!

[Ramses]

On 9/26/2019 at 10:13 PM, doubledown said:

So I've received the same 2 questions from a few different members over the last couple of days regarding my Defender & Mouse Trap Edition - VVG Experience Controllers so I thought I post these here, so that everybody is in the know.  

 

1) How big are they? - The aluminum enclosures used are 20.00" wide, 11.25" deep, and 4.00" high at the back edge with a 10 degree slope.  So for a visual comparison here's this:

 

 

Remember these are "Experience Controllers", purposefully built to closely replicate the experience of their corresponding arcade games.  That being said, while they are heavy enough to be nice and stable on a desk, they are also light enough to be played with in your lap.  I played 20 minutes of Mouse Trap with this one in my lap last night with my feet up on the desk.

 

2) How much do they cost?  As of now these controller models/editions are not for sale.  And by that I mean two things, a) these two specific controllers are not for sale as I built them for myself, and b), my plate is currently full with the VVG Joystick Controller builds, and a few other custom controller designs that I'm working on.  With that being said, once the the pre-ordered controllers get built and shipped, and I finish the few other designs I've got in my mind, I'll have to sit down and add up their individual costs to come up with some pricing.  Thanks again for looking, all of the interest, and the inquiries, and I'll continue to post new controller designs here as they become finalized.  Stay tuned!

 

Loving these! I'm currently working on some usb controllers for mame (4/8 way servostick controller, trackball controller, and a spinner controller), but mine aren't going to be as nice as yours. I have a hard time finding decent enclosures. Project boxes tend to be too small and boxy and diy controller cases tend to be made for fighting games (short buttons) while I prefer clicky happ style buttons so I need something that has depth.

Edited September 28, 2019 by Ramses

[doubledown]

9 hours ago, Ramses said:

 

Loving these! I'm currently working on some usb controllers for mame (4/8 way servostick controller, trackball controller, and a spinner controller), but mine aren't going to be as nice as yours. I have a hard time finding decent enclosures. Project boxes tend to be too small and boxy and diy controller cases tend to be made for fighting games (short buttons) while I prefer clicky happ style buttons so I need something that has depth.

 

Thanks.  I completely understand your dilemma with "finding an enclosure", I've dealt with it for years.  Most are aesthetically ugly, or too small in one dimension, that's probably why most people build an enclosure out of wood.  I can offer 2 bits of info/help for you.  

 

1) Ultimarc GoldLeaf buttons.  They look like old school concave top buttons, but with an internal leaf switch they only require about 1.3" mounting depth.  Granted they are not micro switch buttons and they don't "click", but that's my preference anyway.  You get the look and feel (including longer throw) of 80's game push buttons, without the hassle of external leaf switch maintenance.  If you have to have the micro switch style, like Happ or similar, then you're going to need more depth for your enclosure.

 

2) Hammond Mfg - 1456 enclosures - LINK  These are the series I use for these Experience controllers, specifically the 1456WL1BKBK.  The only "issue" I have with these is how they assemble.  They are only fastened at the bottom, so with downward pressure the play surface can slightly bow down, and with no fasteners at the upright sides they can slightly flare out.  So I install steel angle pieces under the play surface at the outside edges that I fasten to the top and to the sides, which stops the bowing, and the side flaring, plus it adds a little more weight for stability.  If you look at the large pic above, you can see two screws (at each far edge) of the CPO, those are used to fasten this steel angle in place and provide the extra support.  The buttons I used in the Mouse Trap controller are Happ micro switch buttons, with a mounting depth of about 2.3".  The green dog button, is about as low as it can be on the CPO to not bottom out on the bottom panel.  With all that being said, as these are aluminum, you would have to be able to (and comfortable with, and have the proper tools for) machine a metal enclosure.  Fortunately I have access to a small machine shop worth of metal working tools at work, and do it all the time, so no biggie for me.  Others can be intimidated by the idea of working with metal, or just simply not have the proper tools.  

 

Good luck with your project.  

[Ramses]

6 hours ago, doubledown said:

 

Thanks.  I completely understand your dilemma with "finding an enclosure", I've dealt with it for years.  Most are aesthetically ugly, or too small in one dimension, that's probably why most people build an enclosure out of wood.  I can offer 2 bits of info/help for you.  

 

1) Ultimarc GoldLeaf buttons.  They look like old school concave top buttons, but with an internal leaf switch they only require about 1.3" mounting depth.  Granted they are not micro switch buttons and they don't "click", but that's my preference anyway.  You get the look and feel (including longer throw) of 80's game push buttons, without the hassle of external leaf switch maintenance.  If you have to have the micro switch style, like Happ or similar, then you're going to need more depth for your enclosure.

 

2) Hammond Mfg - 1456 enclosures - LINK  These are the series I use for these Experience controllers, specifically the 1456WL1BKBK.  The only "issue" I have with these is how they assemble.  They are only fastened at the bottom, so with downward pressure the play surface can slightly bow down, and with no fasteners at the upright sides they can slightly flare out.  So I install steel angle pieces under the play surface at the outside edges that I fasten to the top and to the sides, which stops the bowing, and the side flaring, plus it adds a little more weight for stability.  If you look at the large pic above, you can see two screws (at each far edge) of the CPO, those are used to fasten this steel angle in place and provide the extra support.  The buttons I used in the Mouse Trap controller are Happ micro switch buttons, with a mounting depth of about 2.3".  The green dog button, is about as low as it can be on the CPO to not bottom out on the bottom panel.  With all that being said, as these are aluminum, you would have to be able to (and comfortable with, and have the proper tools for) machine a metal enclosure.  Fortunately I have access to a small machine shop worth of metal working tools at work, and do it all the time, so no biggie for me.  Others can be intimidated by the idea of working with metal, or just simply not have the proper tools.  

  

 Good luck with your project.  

Thanks! I'll have to order a couple of the Ultimarc Goldleafs to see how I like them. I do like old school concave tops. They have quite a selection for those 1456 enclosures don't they - even ones with wood sides. I have a relative who has the tools for cutting metal, but I don't know the extent of what he can do. Not sure if he has a drill press. I'll have to check.

Edited September 28, 2019 by Ramses

[doubledown]

No problem, I think you'll really like the GoldLeafs if you like the old school style.  Technically most old school games had leaf switch buttons, but the external leaf style which required occasional fiddling and maintenance.   If you decide you want to go with the 1456 series and can't work the case yourself, especially for the larger holes like for the pushbuttons and joystick shaft clearance hole, we could probably work something out if you provided me the dimensions.