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DOUBLEDOWN Custom ColecoVision Controllers


doubledown

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1 hour ago, ColecoKing said:

Oh, I was more interested in those red joystick models I saw on earlier pages.

You would have to be a little more specific.  I've made so many different ones at this point...they all kind of blur together.  Normally when I post a new model, I name it as something like my Donkey Kong Edition - VVG Joystick Controller, or Coleco Edition - VVG Signature Controller, or some such similar.  As long as it's not one of the #2495 Display Edition - Joystick Controllers or Enhanced Controllers, or Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controller (all 3 of which, were limited editions), it should be available to offer...but again I would need to know which one you're talking about.  

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2 hours ago, ColecoKing said:

I think it was the Pacman one but I'll double check.

This is my Pac-Man Edition - VVG Joystick Controller:

 

dsT5on.png

 

If it's the one you were thinking of, then you threw me off with your comment of it being red...granted it has a red ball knob, but with the overall housing yellow...I would have never thought you were talking about this one.  But again, if so...it can be made available...at approximately $275 plus shipping.  Again more details will be in my upcoming interest thread in the marketplace by this weekend.  

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2 hours ago, ColecoKing said:

No my bad, it was one of the controllers that still looked similar to a regular CV controller but had the red arcade knob.

Like these:

 

dualsideby35ev4.jpg

 

Yes...these are Coleco "Hand Controllers."  These specific Pac-Man & Ms. Pac-Man editions were made years ago...as a 1 time build with only 14 pairs (and 1 single Pac-Man controller) made at that time...and no more will be produced.  As as I previously mentioned, I won't be building any "Hand Controllers"...in this upcoming build period...or possibly ever.  

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Ok so what will you be making with the upcoming built?
Sounds like he will have a marketplace thread coming this weekend which will probably show specifics, but I'd really encourage you to read the whole thread from the top anyway. In addition to info on why some can and some can't be made again, it's a great look into how these controllers evolved and what goes into them. A lot of them were originally commission pieces (I have the Q*Bert prototype), so if there's something you don't see it doesn't hurt to ask!

But basically the thread will show you why some can't be made anymore ...limited editions, dye no longer available or they're just too much work. I think some of the hand controllers actually tick all three of those boxes!

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I've posted an "interest check" topic in the Marketplace forums: 

 

HERE

 

...for anybody interested in buying any of my custom controllers.  Please read through that topic, and post any interest or questions there, regarding any of the controllers that I've built...and am currently offering.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

After a bit of pondering about what controller(s) I would make first, using my new custom designed/manufactured ColecoVision controller PCBs...I figured I'd just start simple, with 2 universal/staple designs.  So unveiling my:

 

Coleco Black 4B (BAT) - VVG Enhanced Controller:

 

LAEcfh.png

 

** Hammond Mfg. 14” x 8” aluminum enclosure – braced, stiffened, and weighted

 

** iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way, black, bat-knob joystick, w/ Cherry micro-switches – modified (molded shaft shoulder cut 0.281” shorter, which lowers the overall height of the shaft/knob for superior ergonomics when installed in a thin metal panel)

 

** iL PSL-L, concave push-buttons (2), dark gray, & (2), black, w/ Cherry micro-switches (premium 40g)

 

** VVG ColecoVision Controller PCB w/ 12-button keypad, w/ C&K key-switch buttons w/ square caps, (10) grey, (2) black, w/ button legends

 

** ColecoVision console-inspired front face-plate artwork

 

** Custom-made 10’ cable, w/ rear-mounted cord cleats

 

...and of course, my:

 

Super Action (BAT) - VVG Enhanced Controller:

 

g0V9Y2.png

 

** Hammond Mfg. 14” x 8” aluminum enclosure – braced, stiffened, and weighted

 

** iL EuroJoystick 2, 8-way, red, bat-knob joystick, w/ Cherry micro-switches – modified (molded shaft shoulder cut 0.281” shorter, which lowers the overall height of the shaft/knob for superior ergonomics when installed in a thin metal panel)

 

** iL PSL-L, concave push-buttons (1 ea.), yellow, red, purple, & blue, w/ Cherry micro-switches (premium 40g)

 

** VVG ColecoVision Controller PCB w/ 12-button keypad, w/ C&K key-switch buttons w/ square caps, (12) black, w/ button legends

 

** ColecoVision console-inspired front face-plate artwork

 

** Custom-made 10’ cable, w/ rear-mounted cord cleats

 

Of course these same models can and will be made/offered with iL's replacement threaded shafts, w/ ball-knobs (versus bat knobs), which is actually my personal preference for early 80's video games; but I'm currently waiting on the shipment of the premium ball knobs that I ordered for them, and I'll post pictures of those as assembled, once they have arrived...hopefully sometime this next week.    

 

Alternately of course, other brands of joysticks and push-buttons, like those made by Seimitsu and Sanwa (and others) can be substituted for the iL components if that is someone's preference...I simply prefer the iL components myself.  

 

5J39x5.png

 

Pictured above are 2 of my new PCBs, with several of the colors of square caps (below), that are available for the C&K key-switch push-buttons, that I'm using for the keypad...which can be used for other designs/themes.  The manufacturer also lists yellow and green caps as available on their cut sheet for the buttons, but I couldn't find any vendors that had them in stock...so I'll have to look into those a little bit more.  Enjoy!

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1 hour ago, NIAD said:

Have you ever considering installing a CV system in one of these cases? Actually a Phoenix system would probably be easier due to it's size and the fact that it has built-in SGM and F18a support.

So you'd have a long wire going from your lap to the TV, and another long wire going to the wall socket? I guess that would be workable, especially with a wall socket close to the couch.  :)

 

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Wouldn't be better to have the buttons and stick neared the front border?  

 

I suppose you designed like that in order to put your hand on the front.    But if you look at arcade cabinets from the 80's it is not like that.  

 

I personally find more comfortable to have buttons and joystick to a distance from the border like below.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSouB_SNrIxEnX0BVpAey4

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10 hours ago, NIAD said:

Have you ever considering installing a CV system in one of these cases? Actually a Phoenix system would probably be easier due to it's size and the fact that it has built-in SGM and F18a support.

 

9 hours ago, Pixelboy said:

So you'd have a long wire going from your lap to the TV, and another long wire going to the wall socket? I guess that would be workable, especially with a wall socket close to the couch.  :)

 

 

Anything's possible.  Are you thinking it's the console in the enclosure, plus the joystick...or simply a console transplant?  If its a combo unit (console/controller) in one package, then as Luc mentions you'd have an A/V cable to the TV and a power connection coming out of the enclosure.  Which if at a desk right in front of the monitor, cables could be short/manageable, but if across a living room...they could get pretty long.  Plus if a combo unit, a larger enclosure would be required...assuming you'd want to keep a cartridge slot.

 

4 hours ago, youki said:

Wouldn't be better to have the buttons and stick neared the front border?  

 

I suppose you designed like that in order to put your hand on the front.    But if you look at arcade cabinets from the 80's it is not like that.  

 

I personally find more comfortable to have buttons and joystick to a distance from the border like below.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSouB_SNrIxEnX0BVpAey4

 

It all comes down to personal preference with regards to ergonomics...and in my case no.  When standing at an arcade cabinet (assuming you're a full sized adult human), your upper arms and forearms are both very "downward" (gravity is doing the work here), and when you manipulate the controls, you don't really need to, nor can you really rest your palms on the control panel; partially due to the fact that your wrists can't bend backwards comfortably more than about 45-55 degrees...so the controls were very frontward on the panels.  But when you're playing with a joystick controller on a table, or your lap in front of you, your upper arms are still downward, but now your forearms are more horizontal, and usually, slightly upward a bit from horizontal.  Because of this...most people find it exhausting/tiring to hold their forearms and hands unsupported in the air for long periods of time, when the controls are very forward, providing no support for your palms.  If someone preferred, the controls can be moved more towards the player...but the physical depth of the controls, with reference to the depth of the enclosure has to be considered in such matters.  I have a HORI Real Arcade Pro V Hyabusa for my Nintendo Switch...and I never use it, due to the controls being too forward, towards the player...providing no palm/wrist support.  It's fine, if I set it on my workbench and stand at it (like an arcade cabinet) in the basement...but in my lap, up in the video game room, when sitting...I find it annoyingly uncomfortable for any duration of time.  So is just a preference thing...like ball-knob or bat-knob...leaf-switches or micro-switches...and all the other options.  

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16 hours ago, Pixelboy said:

So you'd have a long wire going from your lap to the TV, and another long wire going to the wall socket? I guess that would be workable, especially with a wall socket close to the couch.  :)

 

Considering the size of the controller enclosure, I personally would have it set on my desk in front on the TV or on a coffee table in front of another TV. Definitely wouldn’t have it resting on my lap as I tried that with the CollectorVision Arcade Controller and it was not comfortable.

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1 minute ago, NIAD said:

Considering the size of the controller enclosure, I personally would have it set on my desk in front on the TV or on a coffee table in front of another TV. Definitely wouldn’t have it resting on my lap as I tried that with the CollectorVision Arcade Controller and it was not comfortable.

The CollectorVision arcade controller was a "LOT" taller than the sloped top enclosures I use (almost 4+")...thus a little hard to use in your lap comfortably.  As always, personal preference applies...blah, blah, blah.  The enclosures pictured above in post #436, are the small Hammond enclosures, at approximately 14" wide, x 8.25" front-to-back, and only 1.5" tall in the front, with a 10 degree slope up to the rear/back.  My personal preference is the next size up (medium-sized) at 17" wide, x 11.25" front-to-back, and the same 1.5" tall in the front, with the same 10 degree slope up to the rear back.  Again personal preference...blah, blah, blah!

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Much to my surprise, even though they were shipped via the USPS...my new ball knobs arrived a couple days earlier than expected...so without further ado:

 

Coleco Black 4B (BALL) - VVG Enhanced Controller:

ZHLjPL.png

 

** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (extended)  = same height as my modified iL factory Bat knob/handles

** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Midnight Slate

 

Super Action (BALL) - VVG Enhanced Controller:

ZnBDwA.png

 

** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (extended)  = same height as my modified iL factory Bat knob/handles

** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Arcade Red

 

Coleco Black 4B (BALL-Short) - VVG Enhanced Controller:

xJS0bJ.png

 

** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (standard)  = "short" height...more along the lines of the shorter Japanese sticks from Seimitsu and Sanwa

** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Midnight Slate

 

Super Action (BALL-Short) - VVG Enhanced Controller:

0tDWRY.png

 

** iL Threaded EuroJoystick Shaft (standard)  = "short" height...more along the lines of the shorter Japanese sticks from Seimitsu and Sanwa

** GGG Hand Candy 1-7/16" ball knob, Arcade Red

 

These controllers are the same specs of the controller variants from post #436, with the exception of the joystick shaft & ball knob changes.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
6 hours ago, doubledown said:

I had to order a big batch of parts here recently for some controllers I'm building...so I finally decided to order myself a set of these:

 

HwqqVn.jpg

 

One Schrute Buck for the first person who can properly identify them.

These are Burger Time arcade fire buttons ...the actual Burger Time arcade fire buttons from a vintage Burger Time arcade machine. They are pepper fire.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So here's something new:

 

noZeCo.png

 

What is it, well its a SMURF-tastic ColecoVision joystick controller of course...which I call my SMURF: RIGC Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller.

 

I was contacted about building a full-featured/universal, ColecoVision, SMURF "themed" controller, and this is what it's new owner and I came up with.  Obviously there is no arcade counterpart of SMURF: RIGC to model such a controller after; and controls-wise, SMURF: RIGC is pretty basic, as it only requires the use of the joystick during game-play, and select keypad buttons for 'pre' and 'post' game selections.  So with no controls or design limitations, and for maximum ColecoVision game compatibility, it was built with an 8-way joystick, (4) Super Action buttons, and a full 12-button keypad.  The hardware details are:

 

** Hammond 14" x 8.25" sloped-top, aluminum enclosure, (braced/stiffened/weighted) & painted a SMURF-y blue

 

** Seimitsu LS-32 joystick, 8-way, w/ round restrictor, with Sanwa LB-35 White ball knob, a SMURF-y blue shaft cover, and a Seimitsu White dustwasher (to mimic a "standing" SMURF)

 

** Sanwa OBSF-30 silent, 30mm push-buttons, (4) Light Blue bodies, w/ (4) White plungers

 

** VVG ColecoVision Controller PCB w/ Keypad, w/ C&K key-switches, w/ (10) White square caps & (2) Blue square caps, w/ black legends

 

** VVG 10' Controller cable, w/ rear-mount cord cleats for cable management

 

** Custom "SMURF: RIGC" themed CPO artwork, which I cannot take any credit for...as it's new owner is wholly responsible for, and did a SMURF-errific job with!

 

Enjoy!

 

"That's one small SMURF for SMURF, one giant SMURF for SMURF-kind" - SMURF Armstrong

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1 hour ago, NIAD said:

Great job as always!

 

Smurf is def a game that needs to be hacked to changed the jump function from Joystick Up to either/both fire buttons.

Thank you, and again, credit to the owner for the amazing artwork.  As I have no game programming skills, I've had the thought of making a unique control scheme controller, specifically for SMURF...just something else on the back burner simmering, while I figure out how I would execute it.  In addition to the joystick Up for JUMP, the joystick Down is used for DUCK...so that would be another button.  

 

8 minutes ago, zaphro72 said:

On the Phoenix you can use period on the NTT super data pad if you have one

You can, but just remember SMURF is a 4-way control game, so when you want to use the period button on the SFC NTT DATA controller to jump, you have to stop manipulating the D-pad.  

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