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DOUBLEDOWN Custom ColecoVision Controllers


doubledown

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While not "new", I was asked to make a left joystick version of the Lady Bug Edition: VVG Joystick Controller that I had previously made (which was a right joystick layout)...so here's that one:

 

JjDNkY.png

 

Then I realized that I never added my Tutankham Edition - VVG Experience Controller here to this thread, so here's that little beauty:

 

9iJHIB.png

 

Also a few months back I made a couple of 7800 controllers, and just so that they're all in one place, here are those:

 

7800 WICO Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller (w/ WICO leaf-switch joystick, and 4-piece arcade leaf-switch push-buttons)

 

s9Y8ib.png

 

Commando Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller (w/ Coin Controls leaf-switch joystick, and 4-piece arcade leaf-switch push-buttons)

 

yOydqy.png

 

Then I also worked out a way to have 1 controller offer both 2600 2-button, and 7800 2-button wiring compatibility (swappable at the the press of a push-button switch); so I added that to my previously made CX2600 2-Button (Ball) - VVG Joystick Controller:

 

2YRcYP.png

 

I'm also looking into making a fully compatible ColecoVision controller (joystick, keypad, & 2 or 4 buttons), with a similar couple of push-button switches that will offer ColecoVision and Atari 2600 & 7800 2-button control schemes.  The first switch will change the button wiring between Coleco & Atari, then a 2nd button for the Atari side...which will allow you to swap between 2600 or 7800 2-button wiring.  I'm still working on this one.  

 

And finally, to round up this weekend's activities, I made 1 more each, of my Vanguard Edition and Mouse Trap Edition - VVG Experience Controllers...so now there's 2 of each of these in the wild now. 

 

As always...enjoy, and more to come!

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On 11/21/2020 at 3:26 PM, doubledown said:

 

In addition to the joystick Up for JUMP, the joystick Down is used for DUCK...so that would be another button.  

 

Yes, but when you DUCK, you stop moving completely. So really no need to change that and best to leave this as is.

 

However, jumping could be made a lot easier to accomplish by using the firebuttons, say left fire for regular jump and right fire for a super (double) jump.

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When you duck (by pulling back/down on the joystick), SMURF does stop walking...if using a 4 way joystick, or if/when using an 8-way joystick, you completely relieve the actuator from one of the side (right or left) switches.  So if you're holding right to walk right, then pull the joystick down to the lower right corner to Duck...you will continue to walk to the right.  You have to move the joystick to the down/center position (if an 8-way) to actually duck.  The joystick being pressed up to jump is similar.  You have to completely come off of either side switch when walking, to actually jump.  So if buttons were wired to work as jump and duck, you would have to know/remember to let go of the joystick so that you would actually jump or duck when you pressed either of these buttons, or wire each button with a 2nd switch to break the Right & Left joystick switch commons, so that the Jump and Duck buttons would win out in the instant of a tie.  Additionally as the super jump is actually program based (not solely input based), in that it sees a jump input, then something along the lines of seeing this same jump input again after the first short jump is complete, but within a certain amount of time after, is what allows the super jump.  Without active electronics, including a smaller timer circuit (or some such similar), I'm not sure that you could have a "dedicated" super jump button.  Of course this whole point is moot, if someone could "easily" re-program the game to work with this concept...using buttons, versus on the joystick.  Unfortunately, game programming is not my bailiwick.

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8 hours ago, NIAD said:

However, jumping could be made a lot easier to accomplish by using the fire buttons, say left fire for regular jump and right fire for a super (double) jump.

That would make Smurf like Pitfall without any challenging obstacles. In other words, a cake walk. Be careful what you wish for!  :P

 

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2 hours ago, Pixelboy said:

That would make Smurf like Pitfall without any challenging obstacles. In other words, a cake walk. Be careful what you wish for!  :P

 

Stop playing the game at skill level #1. Man up and play at skill level #4! ?

 

Anywho, per a Coleco employee that I talked to years ago, the thought with the JOY UP to jump was to make it easier for young kids to play. Little did they know that there would be more OLD kids playing the game.

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1 hour ago, doubledown said:

It's already a cake walk for anybody selecting skill 1, wherein there are no enemies to evade...but nobody other than a very small child would select this skill level...right!?!

Well, if you just want to test that your Smurf cart still works, you're probably just going to pick skill level 1, right?  ? 

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1 hour ago, NIAD said:

Anywho, per a Coleco employee that I talked to years ago, the thought with the JOY UP to jump was to make it easier for young kids to play. 

I had this exact thought when thinking about SMURF last night, that it would be easier for kids to not have to manipulate the buttons. 

 

I have no children (thank all that is good and holy), but I have friends and relatives who do (suckers); and I'm often befuddled when watching their small children attempt to manipulate some sort of game controller, or R/C car controller.  As their hands are so small, they can't reach and manipulate all the controls with their tiny/worthless little digits without re-gripping the controller...like real full sized humans can.  Its both sad and hilarious at the same time!

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I've been working on this joystick project, on and off for a while now...and have finally gotten around to dedicating the time needed to get past my biggest fundamental and physical hurdle, the switches and their actuation:

 

ZJwwCd.png

 

On the left, is a "bone-stock" base, from an iL EuroJoystick 2, with round restrictors, an 8-way square actuator, and Cherry micro-switches.  Hands down my joystick of choice when I'm selecting a modern, mass produced joystick for a controller build.  The 2 biggest problems I have with this joystick, and why I don't think its perfect (especially for vintage games), is that its only sold with a molded bat knob lever, and its only available with pin actuated micro-switches.  Fortunately, iL already offers 2 different length, threaded replacement shafts/levers, that allow for the use of screw on ball knobs...which solves 1 problem.  So I've taken it upon myself to remedy the 2nd problem...the switches. 

 

On the right, is my modified joystick base, that I'm calling my VVG iLeaf Stick.  Using Rollie leaf-switches, that were originally created/designed to offer a leaf-switch solution for modern micro-switch push-buttons from iL and HAPP, I've modified them (and the iL joystick base), to allow me to replace the Cherry micro-switches...with that oh-so-silent goodness, that can only be achieved with a leaf-switch.  I machined a custom round actuator to replace the factory square one, which hits/actuates the switches more evenly than the original, and now I'm playing around with different spring tensions.  In addition to the different springs (for different tensions, for different lengths of shafts), I'm also looking into modifying the 2 different available shafts to create a couple of other specific lengths I'm looking for...which can & will mimic the size/look/height/ of some famous arcade sticks of yesteryear.  

 

More to come.

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  • 2 weeks later...

In my never-ending quest for unique joysticks, and then of course, the inevitable and unique controller projects that I build with them, I have acquired a few of these vintage beauties:

 

lAFc2D.png

 

I've got a mix of these 38mm molded ball-knob sticks, from the early to mid 80s, made by both HAPP and Coin Controls, in both their micro-switch and leaf-switch variants.  In their "factory" form, they are intended to be used in a "thick" wood control panel.  But, I have figured out how to cut the molded shaft shoulder shorter, and then cut a new matching E-clip groove, so that these can be installed into the "thin" aluminum Hammond enclosures that I use...without them being ridiculously tall and un-ergonomic.  I currently have plans for 1 each of the black (leaf-switch), red (micro-switch), and blue (micro-switch) variants that I have, but for the life of me, I can't think of any good idea, theme, or concept for the white one.  

 

So I'm offering a bounty of 1 Schrute Buck to anybody who can propose an idea, or theme, or game tie-in, wherein a white joystick would be a brilliant idea.  Note I've already used a white ball-knob joystick for the SMURF: RIGC controller, so that one's out...as it's already been done.  I await your brilliance & inspiration, and thanks in advance! 

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19 minutes ago, doubledown said:

So I'm offering a bounty of 1 Schrute Buck to anybody who can propose an idea, or theme, or game tie-in, wherein a white joystick would be a brilliant idea.  Note I've already used a white ball-knob joystick for the SMURF: RIGC controller, so that one's out...as it's already been done.  I await your brilliance & inspiration, and thanks in advance!

Antarctic Adventure?

 

Oil's Well?

 

:) 

 

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@Pixelboy...may I present you with 1 Schrute Buck:

 

3B6vhR.jpg

 

...for Antarctic Adventure.  The "white" snow tie-in/theme...perfect.  I honestly don't think I would have come up with that one, probably because I almost never play this game for some reason...but yes.  And, as there is no arcade version of this game which I would have to mimic, I would have full artistic license with this one.  Well done sir!

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Please note that the actual cash value of One Schrute Buck is 1/100 of $0.01 USD.  You should check with your currency broker to determine it's value in Canadian Dollars (I'm not sure of the current exchange rate), and also, be sure to check with your financial representation to determine any potential tax liability from this windfall.  It may bump you up into a higher tax bracket!

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21 hours ago, doubledown said:

Please note that the actual cash value of One Schrute Buck is 1/100 of $0.01 USD.  You should check with your currency broker to determine it's value in Canadian Dollars (I'm not sure of the current exchange rate), and also, be sure to check with your financial representation to determine any potential tax liability from this windfall.  It may bump you up into a higher tax bracket!

1/100 of $0.01 USD.....that's like $100,000 CDN right now

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On 12/23/2020 at 9:47 AM, zaphro72 said:

1/100 of $0.01 USD.....that's like $100,000 CDN right now

Ah, so you guys are headed down the same path as Venezuela? Don't worry, it won't take the President Non-Erect and his merry band of misfits long to send the U.S. down that same path as it correlates to the CCR... and I'm not talking about Creedence Clearwater Revival.

 

See ya in a little less than a month. ?

 

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Well here we are...almost at the end of 2020...and I was hoping to show off a couple of new controllers that I've been working on before the year's end.  But alas, with the current state of the parcel shipping services, I believe I will be denied...unless some miracle happens today or tomorrow, and my parts show up.  So in the mean time, I'll just patiently wait, and ponder more new and amazing ideas.  

 

In other news...we got a new "toy" at work last week:

 

2EK8hU.png

 

I will admit, that I personally don't much go in for 3D printed items.  I think the technology is neat, and cool, but it will never replace molded, and/or machined parts.  They of course have a strength limitation when compared to their molded counterparts, then there is also the major difference in finish and appearance when compared to their molded counterparts.  And I will be the first to tell you that I won't be making any custom controller housings or enclosures with this printer...but I do think however, that I will be able to make use of some 3D printed parts internally, inside some of my controllers (little fiddly mounting bits and the likes). 

 

After I got the printer set up, I had to test print something...so I found a 2600 Paddle knob (-esque) model online, and printed one to check it out:

 

60Go5j.png

 

Other than its obvious 3D printed look, like being able to discern the individual layers, (wherein every 3D printed part looks like an engineering sample vs. a finished part)...it came out pretty well.  So I'm sure I'll be able to make some good use of it, here in the near future.  

 

Let's see, what else...we also got a new/updated controller w/software for our CNC mill, plus a bunch of new tooling for it. All of this will allow me to do a few new things that I couldn't before, as well as speed up my production/operational time on the machine...so win/win for me!

 

Then one last note...for the ColecoVision fans...I do have a new, really "unique-ish" controller design that I'm working on.  So I had this idea for a controller, that doesn't really appeal to me, but I believe others will be interested in it, and it fills a gap in the current marketplace.  I had ordered an enclosure that I've never used before, and I started working on the layout and features...when I had a sudden/crazy inspiration, for a way to make it 100% better than originally planned.  For the new feature, I had to design a new PCB (which is now done, and on order), and I still have to order the buttons for this one...but I think when people see it, it's going to blow their "tiny" little minds.

 

So happy holidays to my fans and friends, and hopefully 2021 will be better year for all of us!

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So it would seem that there are those, who fancy an “arcade-ish” type joystick controller for their game play enjoyment; but who would prefer said controller be small, and/or cute…rather than full-sized, and/or ergonomic and comfortable.  Perhaps their reasoning is that they have very little storage room for their video game hobby.  Perhaps they would like to frequently travel with said controller.  Perhaps they just like complain about things on the internet.  Or perhaps they simply want a very small controller, for the very small hands and laps, of their very small children…that they’re trying to get interested in vintage gaming.  Whatever the reason…it makes no difference; everybody of course, has their own needs and wants, and is entitled to their own opinions.  Now, I can tell you, that I personally, don’t really fancy a small “arcade-ish” controller for my game play enjoyment, but, I did come up with an idea for one. 

 

Let me preface this reveal/announcement with my opinion, that most of the small “arcade-ish” type joystick controllers I’ve seen, as built by others, by my opinion, seem to fall a little bit short in the fit and finish department, their layout and ergonomics (the little bit that applies with “arcade-ish” controllers this small), and also usually the overall robustness of the controller (again, my personal opinion, your mileage may vary).  Most of these small controllers are usually built into small plastic molded or 3D printed enclosures, wood cigar or craft boxes, or even cardboard boxes…or some type of plastic storage container.  Again, I’m not saying that there is anything wrong with any of these, but it got me to thinking…what if a person of discerning taste, and disposable income, was interested in a high-quality small “arcade-ish” controller for themselves…where do they turn?  Well, wonder no more, as I’ve taken it upon myself to create a controller for those who are looking for this very thing; a small “arcade-ish” controller populated with quality brand-name components, that looks and feels like a commercially available finished product, and one that has been built to take the foreseeable and inevitable abuse, that every game controller is eventually subject to…and to endure that punishment!

 

So a controller this small will obviously have to sacrifice some of the comfort and ergonomics found in its larger siblings, and due to its extremely small physical size, there is also the question as to what features & options can physically be installed into it.  To start out, I selected the smallest enclosure that Hammond Mfg. offers, in their family of black powder-coated aluminum, 10 degree sloped-topped housings (and the only size that I haven’t made use of thus far).  The enclosure itself measures 6.5” wide, by 5.5” deep (front to back), and with its sloped/angled control panel top, is approximately 1.5” tall in the front, which increases to 2.5” tall at the rear.  To some this may sound like a big enclosure, but to me…it’s not…it’s quite the opposite.  For comparison, the other 3 sizes from this lineup that I regularly use are, 20” wide x 11.25 deep, 17” wide x 11.25” deep, and 14” wide by 8.25” deep…so this new one is definitely a Mini enclosure.  Due to its small size, there is no way to employ, a built-in, standard 12 button keypad…whilst simultaneously installing full-sized, and true, arcade controls…so this is my original idea/concept:

 

ColecoVision Edition – VVG Mini Controller

 

TmUy9P.png

 

Built into the “littlest housing that could” from Hammond Mfg., this controller features:

 

**Seimitsu LS-32 Joystick, w/ 35mm black ball knob (smaller/larger ball knobs, and even bat knobs are also available) – configurable with an 8-way square, 8-way round, 8-way octagon, 4-way clover, 2-way vertical, or 2-way horizontal restrictor gate

 

****Note: For cosmetics, comfort, and proper function, the joystick was drop mounted 1/16” so that its dust washer could be installed below the control panel. 

 

**Seimitsu PS-15 30mm push-buttons (2), Light Ash

 

**Cable #1, 8’ w/ male plug - for connection to console

 

**Cable #2, 3’ w/ female receptacle - for connection from Hand Controller (or similar) for keypad functionality

 

**ColecoVision inspired artwork

 

One would think that with an enclosure this small, the normal bracing, stiffening, and strengthening modifications that I perform on these types of enclosures, surely wouldn’t be necessary…but in my opinion…they still absolutely are.  So the very few, factory,#6 assembly fasteners are disposed of, and increased to #8-32, proper machine screws; and two steel angle braces are installed to solidify the enclosure into an incredibly strong, and robust little housing…whilst adding almost half a pound of much needed weight…especially necessary on a controller this small…for table-top game play stability.   

 

With no room for a standard keypad, I decided, that to account for the necessary keypad functions, I would install a short 2nd cable, that will allow the user to plug in a standard Hand Controller (or similar) to have easy access to the keypad buttons when necessary.  I understand that this is not an ideal situation for keypad-intensive games, but as this is intended to be a small controller alternative for those who are interested in a small, but high-quality “arcade-ish” type of controller, sacrifices had to be made.  Originally I considered simply installing a panel-mount DE-9 receptacle onto the rear of the housing, but with the extremely short length of the coiled cords of the original Hand Controllers, I figured that the 3’ external cable, would allow you to set the secondary controller off to the side of your person a bit, or perhaps even on a table next to you…or some such similar.  In essence, consider this a small ColecoVision 2 button arcade joystick controller, with a built in wye cable, wherein the secondary controller is actually near you…the user (and easy accessible), not near the console…and across the room.

 

Then I figured, that there may also be those who want a controller such as this, but have already accounted for their keypad functionality needs, by using a controller plugged into Port 2 of the console (for games that allow for this), or perhaps by using a Super Famicom NTT DATA control pad with their Phoenix, or the likes…so I’ll also offer this:

 

ColecoVision Basic Edition – VVG Mini Controller

 

FXSrlS.png

 

6R0mo0.png

 

This Basic edition, has all of the same features, elements, and options of the standard edition from above, with the exception of the 2nd cable.  Basically this is offered as a lower cost option, for those budget-minded enthusiasts, who again, already have a solution they’re comfortable with, for keypad functionality.

 

So there we have it, just over 1000 words to describe my latest, smallest, and most adorable custom arcade type ColecoVision controller to date…but wait…there’s more.  And surely, if you’ve read this far, maybe you’re willing to read a little further. 

 

The Standard Edition of this controller (the model with the 2 separate cables, as detailed/pictured 1st above) was my original idea for this project; again, as I was pretty sure that there was no way I was going to be able to install a standard 12 button keypad into this housing.  But before I got too far into the project’s layout and design, I had ordered, and waited to receive the enclosure that I would be using.  Even though I had a dimensional drawing of the enclosure from the manufacturer’s website…I really like to get these types of things physically into my hands, so that I can really get a feel for them…in real life.  I find that it’s too easy to zoom in on something on your computer screen, and make it appear much larger and/or roomier than it actually is.  With the new housing in hand, I started really playing around with the hardware and the layout.  Determining which components would work, which would not, and the likes.  I had set the enclosure down on my workbench to do a bit of computer work, when at some point thereafter, I noticed one of my VVG ColecoVision Controller PCBs w/ Keypad laying next to it that I had built up and just had laying there…for some reason or another.  So I got to comparing the enclosure and the PCB, and looking at a few different things/options, when I had a brainstorm.  I had already decided that there simply wasn’t enough room for a standard 12 button keypad…but it looked like, I could create and install a 12 button keypad, with a different, albeit still familiar (to true ColecoVision fans) layout.  So after some measurements, some digital layout work, and a couple hours to design a new custom PCB, I present you with this:

 

ColecoVision DX Edition – VVG Mini Controller

 

z1qngt.png

 

By reconfiguring the standard 3 (columns) x 4 (rows) 12-button keypad layout, to a 6 (columns) x 2 (rows) layout (Dina 2 in one  / TELEGAMES Personal Arcade format), I can fit a full 12 button keypad into the front face of this Mini controller enclosure…thus making it a full-featured, Mini ColecoVision arcade controller, the likes of which the world has never seen.  And, as this is the DX (deluxe) Edition, it of course features cord cleats on the rear of the enclosure, for cable management:

 

8Y5oN7.png

 

2SH8Lu.png

 

A surprising amount of work went into creating this new, tiny little controller.  In addition to the actual design work for the controller itself, I had to design a new PCB for the 6x2 keypad layout, and I had to modify my existing machining fixture that I built for my CNC mill, which I use for machining these enclosures…due to this enclosure’s incredibly small size.  Additionally, I also had to build a new “booster seat attachment” for said fixture, so that I can machine the front and rear faces of the housing, for the installation of the PCB w/ keypad buttons, and the cord cleats on the DX edition.  Now, I will never tell you that this is my most-est favorite-est controller of all time, (although it is growing on me), but I really do like the way it came out, and I can unequivocally say, that it feels like a solid little tank…with a joystick inside.  I’m not kidding, you could seriously bludgeon somebody to within an inch of their life with this controller…if that was your thing.  Feel free to throw this little baby across the room in a fit of rage whenever the game you’re playing is cheating…I’m pretty sure it’ll survive!  You just may want to pass out some helmets to your family and friends though, first, before you do so.

 

0Mjg7R.png

 

And just so that the ATARI fanboys don’t feel left out:

 

ATARI VCS Edition – VVG Mini Controller

 

85GVMg.png

 

ATARI 7800 Edition – VVG Mini Controller

 

sjw0ze.png

 

For the ATARI versions, I switched to Ultimarc GoldLeaf push-buttons (Orange), as I prefer concave plunger buttons myself, and they offer a more vintage look and feel.  I would have used them for the ColecoVision versions too…but sadly they’re not available in grey.  The selection for grey arcade pushbuttons is pretty limited, even more so when you consider the shallow mounting depth this enclosure offers. 

 

But wait, there’s even more.  For those who’d like a small controller like this to be truly travel-friendly, or for those with limited space, and/or storage concerns, I’ve come up with yet, even one more feature:

 

ColecoVision DX+ Edition - VVG Mini Controller

 

PXLke5.png

 

Installed onto the right side of the controller, is a color matched, black thermoplastic with grey rubber insert carry handle, which allows for easy and convenient transport, and provides the ability for this controller to be hung from a hook…for easy storage. And as a bonus, the side handle, also provides a little more pseudo control panel surface, to help support your right hand while manipulating the push-buttons.

 

And there we have it…or so it would seem.  Now again, a controller this small will never be my controller of choice (due to its small size, and general lack of overall ergonomics/comfort/support), but as I had to physically create one for photographic purposes, I figured I might as well make a special one just for me:

 

The Grey Special – VVG Mini Controller

 

6k1Lq9.png

 

The Grey Special, is my personal, ColecoVision DX+ Edition - VVG Mini Controller, customized to my liking, and built with my control/hardware preferences (as possible).  For the joystick, I removed the factory standard micro-switches, and installed new Cherry D43Y (86g) micro-switches, which firms up joystick feel quite a bit, as well as it knocks down the audible clicking noise, by about 50%...making it bit more pleasant to the human ear when it’s being manipulated.  Additionally, I removed the joystick’s factory main-gate and sub-gate, and installed the  8-way round gate option parts, as this is my preference for most vintage 8-way games, and for general, universal game-play.  Then lastly, as I very much prefer concave plunger push-buttons, especially those of the true and original, vintage arcade variety, I was able to source a NOS pair of light-grey arcade leaf-switch push-buttons, to be installed into this, my personal Mini Controller.  Note, The Grey Special is a 001/001 L.E., and will not be offered for sale, unlike the others.  Now that these Minis are finished, I can get back to BIGGER and better things!

 

So thanks for looking (and reading), and I await your kudos, your compliments, and of course your obligatory complaints (I have already been foretold of 7 of them, so bring 'em on)!  ?

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Not gonna lie, I think those look really friggin good!!  I like how you incorporated the keypad as well!!  Very nicely done!!  Let us know when you have a price point....I may be very inclinded to throw some cash your way.....just gotta make sure before I do I do something special for the wife so she won't care lol

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