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DOUBLEDOWN Custom ColecoVision Controllers

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3 hours ago, Pixelboy said:

I don't think that pic was Photoshopped. Koalas pick up and play with anything that you put in front of them, kinda like raccoons. But I'm sure it took a lot of tries to get the picture just right.  :) 

 

I'll have to find a koala to get a picture with my controller once I get it finished.  I'm sure the Toledo zoo has one I can likely borrow.

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Ok, so lets talk Tutankham!  I'll admit, I've never played a dedicated Tutankham cabinet, and honestly before a few months ago, I don't even know how much of the ColecoVision port I ever played.  It wasn't a game I had any history/memory of, so it just stayed off of my radar.  But as there was some discussion about it here once I stated making larger custom controllers, I decided to look into it.  The arcade cabinet used (1) 4-way WICO stick to move Archie (...the archaeologist...how adorable), (1) horizontal 2-way WICO stick to fire your laser gun (left or right), and (1) leaf-switch button for the flash bomb.  As this control-scheme wasn't possible with the ColecoVision Hand Controller, it was programmed using the 8-way Control Stick to move Archie, the Left & Right fire buttons for directional firing, and both buttons pressed simultaneously for the flash bomb.  There are 2 problems with this.  1) Archie doesn't respond to diagonals...so if you are moving say right, then you press up to make the next turn, but are unknowingly pressing the stick diagonally (say up/right), he won't make the turn.  2) When quickly switching between firing left, to firing right you can inadvertently set off a flash bomb when not intending to.  They could have programmed a keypad button to be the flash bomb button, but I don't feel the keypad buttons are quickly found during gameplay (and apparently Parker Bros. felt the same way), or they could have programmed it for the SACs (with their 4 available buttons), but I understand why they didn't.  The Intellivision version uses the 3 unique buttons found on the INTV's hand controllers, but lets face it the INTV's gameplay is a bit slow, and obviously graphically inferior to the ColecoVision version.  

 

So that brings us to now, and my quest to right the wrongs of the past, and make a proper controller for the ColecoVision port of Tutankham.  Plus it gives me an excuse to finally create a twin-stick controller for the ColecoVision, which still to this day, does not have ports of Robotron: 2084, or Space Dungeon...for some crazy reason!  Now this controller could be made with any joysticks capable of 4-way & 2-way operations, but I really want to make this controller, at least the first one (which will be mine), with the proper WICO joysticks.  The good news is, modern WICOs are being reproduced, the bad news is, they're only available as 8-ways and 4-ways...no 2-ways.  Obviously you can simply use a 4-way for the 2-way, but the stick would still be able to physically move up and down (although it wouldn't do anything extra)...which is wrong!  I've been on the lookout for a while now for an original 2-way, and on my recent treasure hunt, I found one:

 

ptSwkT.jpg

 

Even though the lower base has mounting locations for all 4 leaf-switches, you only install the necessary 2, but the key is the oval-shaped restriction holes in the top and bottom of the base, which limits its movements to only horizontal or vertical, depending on its mounting orientation.  So now that I have this, I'll need to get a modern 4-way WICO, and the necessary push-buttons, and I'll be able to create a perfectly "arcade accurate" Tutankham Edition - VVG Experieince Controller.  

 

That leads us to the wiring issues with the 2-way laser gun joystick, and the flash bomb push-button.  On the arcade PCB, this is done as 3 separate inputs, but on the ColecoVision port it's obviously accomplished with only 2.  There's no problem wiring the joystick, as it has 2 separate switches, just like the 2 separate left & right hand controller fire buttons.  But the push-button for the flash bomb only has 1 set of contacts, which if wired directly would cause you to detonate a flash bomb every time you attempt to fire with the 2-way joystick (and cause other issues due to the different commons).  My options were to attempt to modify the push-button so that I could install 2 switches on it (for wiring separation), or figure out a creative wiring solution.  My initial wiring attempt included the addition of a few diodes, which at first glance seemed to work, but then I noticed that, as it was, the laser gun firing would win out in the event of a tie.  Meaning that if you were still manipulating the firing joystick when you attempted to press the flash bomb button, no bomb would detonate, you would simply continue to fire.  So I tried again, added a few more diodes...and voila, exactly the way I wanted it.  Complete wiring separation of the inputs, which maintains complete functionality, and now the flash-bomb button wins out in the event of a tie with the firing joystick...huzzah!  

 

I also still need to determine how to wire the P1/P2 start buttons.  I can either wire them directly to keypad buttons #3 & #6 (which gives you 3 Archies per game, as was the default setting on the arcade cabinet), or wire it through a 3-way / 2-pole rotary switch to allow for all 3 of the game menu selection options.  When play testing the game, it doesn't seem any harder or easier depending on the selection, simply the difference in the number of lives you start with (the manual also makes no mention of any difficulty difference).  So we'll see, I'll probably install the selection switch, as I've already done it on other controllers, and I already have it figured out.  

 

So again, current state of the world, blah, blah, blah, I'm not sure how soon it'll be before I'll be able to get this one done, but it's in the hopper.  

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Pull up a stool, and let's talk Tapper...Root Beer Tapper!  A couple people have already contacted me about this one so I wanted to post the info regarding this project here in 1 place.  So below is a "found" picture of the basic goal:

 

Sl9gGF.jpg

 

Looks pretty simple, (1) 4-way red ball-knob joystick centered in the control panel, and (2) duplicate/ambidextrous 1-way tap-handled joysticks...what could be simpler.  Complexity is not the issue unfortunately, hardware rarity is.  So recently I started looking into the original hardware to determine exactly what was originally installed, and how available said components are.  What I found is that the 4-way joystick is simply a standard Bally/Midway 4-way joystick (as used in Pac-Man, Ms. Pac-Man and other Bally/Midway games of the day), and the tapper joysticks were the standard Bally/Midway 2-way Galaga joysticks, with the special Tapper molded tap-handle shafts.  Surprisingly, none of this hardware is currently being reproduced, so for the ultimate in authenticity, vintage hardware would be required.  Then I started looking at current pricing for said hardware, and it basically looks something like this:

 

(1) 4-Way joystick - $50 - $75 depending on condition, may need some amount of restoration work, and/or replacement parts

(2) 2-Way joysticks - $60 - $100 each, depending on condition, may need some amount of restoration work, and /or replacement parts

(2) Tap handle shafts - $100 - $150 each, depending on condition

 

So that puts the joysticks' cost alone, potentially around $500...which is simply just too damn pricey...even in my opinion.  Which means comprises will have to be made and modern hardware will have to be used, fortunately I had unknowingly already started on this.  

 

Recently I started working with a modern American joystick to create a sustainable Galaga-esque simulate, which will look, and more importantly feel, more like the originals than anything else currently available on the market.  This was all being done for a Galaga project that I'm working on, and then when I found out that the Tapper 1-way joysticks were just Galaga joysticks with different shafts/handles, that moved the Root Beer Tapper project closer to the forefront.  With all that said, there's still more work to do with the joystick modifications, more parts to order, test and modify, so it will definitely be a while before this one is ready/available...but that's where this project stands for those that are interested.  About the only other info I can provide at the moment, is that all 3 joysticks will indeed be leaf-switch joysticks, like the originals, tap handles of "similar size and shape" of the originals will be installed on the 1-ways, and a red-ball knob will be installed on the 4-way.  Other than that, obviously the artwork is already done, and I'll also install a 4-position / 2-pole rotary switch for game selection wired to the P1/P2 start buttons, and a push-button switch wired to the keypad's * button to access the game's menu after your game has ended, will also be installed.  I'll post updates regarding this project once I have more info...so stay tuned.  

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While I'm here stuck at the house, I've been going through some boxes, pulling out and playing some games I haven't played in years, and I decided to dig out one of my Roller Controllers.  I can't even imagine how long it's been since I've had a Roller Controller hooked up, but after playing with it for a little bit, I decided to take it apart and clean the bearings as they weren't as smooth as they should be.  But while I had it apart I was looking at everything and think I've come up with a way to improve the mechanical portion, and transplant everything into a larger aluminum Hammond enclosure which would allow for arcade quality/sized buttons, and better ergonomics.  Additionally it will be possible to create a single-axis "Spinner" or "Paddle-esque" Rotary type controller for those games that it would be accurate for.  So lets look at, and discuss the ColecoVision "Roller Controller" games, and a few others that fit into the mix.  Please note that I am fully aware that in Joytick Mode, the Roller Controller is basically compatible with almost all games, but that's not the sort of generalized info I'm interested in here.  Feel free to chime in with any missing/incorrect info:

 

Centipede

-Arcade - Trak-ball & 1 button

-CV - Can use the Roller Controller in "Joystick" mode

---Note, matches the arcade counterpart, albeit only in the "Joystick" digital-pulse mode, not truly analog like the original

 

Omega Race

-Arcade - Rotary control & 2 buttons

-CV - Can use the Roller Controller in "Joystick" mode

---Note, as this game only uses a single axis of the Roller Controller (x-axis, for ship rotation), it is better suited for a Rotary type controller, and thus would also properly match the arcade counterpart

 

Slither

-Arcade - Trak-ball & 2 buttons

-CV - Required use of the Roller Controller in "Roller" mode

---Note, the only game in the CV library to use the true "Roller" mode, and match the controls of it's arcade counterpart

 

Star Trek: Strategic Operations Simulator

-Arcade - Rotary control & 4 buttons

-CV - Can use the Roller Controller in "Joystick" mode

---Note, as this game only benefits from a single axis of the Roller Controller (x-axis, for ship rotation), it is better suited for a Rotary type controller, and thus would also properly match the arcade counterpart

 

Victory

-Arcade - Rotary control & 4 buttons

-CV - Required use of the Roller Controller in "Roller" mode

---Note, as this game only uses a single axis of the Roller Controller (x-axis, for ship rotation), it is better suited for a Rotary type controller, and thus would also properly match the arcade counterpart

 

War Games

-no Arcade counterpart

-CV - Can use the Roller Controller in "Joystick" mode

---Note, could make for a cool project for a large sized VVG Enhanced Controller due to the large number of buttons & keypad buttons required.  Obviously it would be labeled the WOPR!

 

Additionally I drew up the CPO for Centipede last night, the image below is a low resolution digital sample.  The artwork may need to move a bit upward in the Y-axis, but I won't know that for sure until I can get the new housing, the necessary mounting hardware, and take some final measurements:

 

8icj0K.jpg

 

But with this new discovery/concept, it really opens up the door for a few truly radical Arcade Experience Controllers to add to my collection/portfolio!

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I agree.  I would also need to come up with something as a way to add a bit of cosmetic flair to match the aesthetics from the WPOR in the movie, somehow into my controller.  Like this:

 

6lKgeD.png

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52 minutes ago, doubledown said:

I agree.  I would also need to come up with something as a way to add a bit of cosmetic flair to match the aesthetics from the WPOR in the movie, somehow into my controller.  Like this:

 

6lKgeD.png

Wonderful idea.  :)

 

The game experience would be enhanced if the controller had a trackball instead of a joystick, but I realize that would add a lot of complexity to the controller. In any case, having big (Mouse-Trap-like) buttons for the US regions, and small buttons for the defense units would make the controller look cool, and give the game a weird arcade feel which it never actually had.

 

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I have lots of ideas for this one, all of which can just add to its cost of course.  I like the "idea" of the Roller Controller control scheme, but in practice I don't like its in-game control.  I have a perfectly working Roller Controller, but in WarGames, as it is only making use of the digital mode, I don't find it's movement of the targeting cross hairs smooth at all.  It works perfectly fine in Centipede (also in digital mode, but obviously not as good as a true trak-ball mode), but when I try it with WarGames...like I said, it seems a bit jerky, and you can easily overshoot your target area, or stop short.  I personally find finer and more predictable control can be had with a joystick...for me at least.  With that being said, I could see using a pistol grip joystick with at least 1 trigger, plus possibly a thumb button.  Perhaps pulling the ASCII joystick out of one of these:

 

rxqLyD.jpg

 

I would assign the index finger activated trigger, as the Left Side Button, which Activates/Fires the current defense chosen.  Normally the Right Side Button (which in this case could be the thumb button) is programmed to select between available Interceptor Jets, but the # keypad key does this as well, so that could either be kept the same, or wired as something else...perhaps keypad 8, which displays the overall U.S. Strategic Map.  

 

I always assumed to use some sort of legit arcade buttons for the "keypad" buttons for this controller, but I never considered the larger/illuminated Mouse Trap style buttons.  Of course they're more expensive, require power to illuminate (equals more cost), but it would make it a helluva lot flashier!  Plus those style of buttons are made in 2 different sizes of squares, made as rectangular, and made as round...so definitely multiple possible options to use a different style for the (6) Defense Sector map buttons, and the (3) Defense buttons.  

 

With all this in mind, plus countless other possibilities I haven't mentioned or thought of, I'm completely open to anybody's ideas for control-scheme options and/or hardware on this one...as there is no arcade cabinet counterpart which has to be imitated...so the sky is the limit.  Let's hear some ideas.

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So in other new controller news...I came across, and purchased, some new hardware finds on the Arcade Forums and Ebay today.  

 

Controller the first, an original Taito Space Invaders Cocktail table, populated control panel:

 

z4SpJ4.png

 

So I've already made the Midway version of a Space Invaders Cocktail controller with their original 2-way lever controller, but now I can make the Taito version...which uses their authentic 2-way joystick.  To my understanding, Taito used this same 2-way joystick in all of their Upright, Cabaret, and Cocktail Space Invaders cabinets.  While the Midway released versions, used 2 separate buttons in their Upright and Cabaret cabinets, and the 2-way lever control on their Cocktail tables.  

 

Controller the second, (2) original Gorf Cocktail table, populated control panels:

 

gFVCCa.png

 

While the Upright and Cabaret cabinets of Gorf, used their optically-read, pistol-grip joystick, the Cocktail table used this 8-way Bally/Midway joystick.  Basically this is the same joystick that's used in the Pac-Man series of games, (along with a load of others), but in an 8-way configuration...versus the 4-ways used in Pac-Man and the likes.  This is the arcade accurate joystick for the ColecoVision ports of Bosconian, Bump 'n Jump, and/or Gorf (cocktail). 

 

I've already ear-marked one of these joysticks for a Gaplus/Galaga 3 controller for either the PS1/PS2 or Wii.  Gaplus/Galaga 3 was the only game in the vintage Galaxian franchise of games, which allowed ship movement in all 8 directions using one of these exact joysticks, (like that in Gorf)...versus the side-to-side only movement found in Galaxian, Galaga, and Galaga '88.  

 

So taking a vote, who would like to see which of the following ports get a custom themed, arcade accurate controller made:

 

Bosconian

Bump 'n Jump

Gorf (Cocktail)

 

Post your vote!

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On 4/22/2020 at 7:56 PM, Pixelboy said:

Wonderful idea.  :)

 

The game experience would be enhanced if the controller had a trackball instead of a joystick, but I realize that would add a lot of complexity to the controller. In any case, having big (Mouse-Trap-like) buttons for the US regions, and small buttons for the defense units would make the controller look cool, and give the game a weird arcade feel which it never actually had.

 

I like this idea a lot! A controller with the random light patterns, like the inside of the LIS Jupiter 2...I like the blocks of 16 lights.... would be really fun!

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Well I can think of 2 different ideas for the physical location for the incorporation of the WOPR lights on a WarGames controller:

 

1) Use a tall flat-top enclosure, which can provide a large flat front face for the WOPR lights, like the enclosure I used for my Gauntlet controllers:

 

bmuQlJ.png

 

Normally I only choose this type of enclosure (versus the angled/sloped topped enclosures) when the controls require the extra mounting depth, but again in this instance, the front face could be used for the lights.

 

2) The other idea would be to use 2 enclosures fastened together, whereas the rear enclosure is stood up on it's rear face, and the top of this rear enclosure is fastened to the rear of the lower front enclosure, and facing the player...think of a kitchen counter with a back splash type concept.  This option yields more surface area for the WOPR lights, has more visibility for the player when playing, but obviously costs more...as 2 enclosures have to be purchased.  

 

Then I can think of 3 ways to simulate, install, and/or wire the WOPR lights.

 

A) Draw the WOPR lights, then print and laminate them and apply like I do with all of my other artwork.  Obviously this would be the least flashy...but would take a lot less time, and cost the least.

 

B) Actually install the WOPR lights, and only wire a single pattern (like a static image) of a few lights to be illuminated.  Would be moderately flashy, would take more time for machining, a little extra wiring, and would cost a bit more depending on the lights chosen.

 

C) Actually install the WOPR lights, and individually wire them to a programmable logic controller, which could/would allow them to blink and flash in a pre-programmed pattern like in the actual movie.  This would be amazingly flashy, same machining time involved as option B, a ton of wiring required, and would be the most expensive option possible.  And for complete programmable control, I would need a controller with something like 144 digital outputs.  Additionally I would need to find/spec a controller for this, and figure out how to program it.  I have programming experience with Allen-Bradley PLCs, but that would be a bit overkill for something like this.  I assume something like an Arduino could be used...assuming an Arduino is capable of this many outputs.  

 

Anybody here have Arduino experience/expertise who can chime in about this option C?

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So I whipped up a rudimentary WarGames control panel layout drawing, to check hardware component sizing & spacing...

 

QFVBGQ.png

 

So the above layout would include a pistol-grip joystick with 2 buttons (trigger & thumb) for the cross-hair control, then (7) HAPP 2" square illuminated buttons in the center for the map buttons, then (3) 2" rectangular buttons for the defense selection buttons.  My idea for the narrower rectangular buttons allows for the player to rest 3 fingers, on these 3 buttons simultaneously for quicker selections.  They would all definitely fit in the 20" Hammond enclosure.  Any thoughts, questions, comments?

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6 hours ago, doubledown said:

So the above layout would include a pistol-grip joystick with 2 buttons (trigger & thumb) for the cross-hair control, then (7) HAPP 2" square illuminated buttons in the center for the map buttons, then (3) 2" rectangular buttons for the defense selection buttons.  My idea for the narrower rectangular buttons allows for the player to rest 3 fingers, on these 3 buttons simultaneously for quicker selections.  They would all definitely fit in the 20" Hammond enclosure.  Any thoughts, questions, comments?

How do you select the skill level with this?  :)

 

Also, if you're going to put the joystick that far to the left, the enclosure will need to have some added weight to it, for stability.

 

Edited by Pixelboy

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5 hours ago, Pixelboy said:

How do you select the skill level with this?  :)

 

Also, if you're going to put the joystick that far to the left, the enclosure will need to have some added weight to it, for stability.

 

This drawing was simply a sizing test to see if this quantity of these large Mouse Trap style buttons would fit, but as A-F represent keypad buttons 1-6, and the Blue button is keypad button 8...that already accounts for 7 of the 8 skill levels. But as the idea of this is to create a super flashy WarGames controller, I could see installing an 8-position rotary switch wired through some kind of switch as a dedicated P1 start button, like what would have been in an arcade.  Possibly a key-switch (or two), or a big flip covered toggle switch like we see in the movies when missile launching is involved. 

 

This is my standard joystick "left" location for both the 17" & 20" enclosures I've used.  I would of course add my steel braces (for strength and a big of weight), if I used the angled/sloped topped enclosures.  

 

1 hour ago, zaphro72 said:

@doubledown How is your Spy Hunter Controller coming along?

It still needs to get painted. Now that the weather is finally getting warmer, hopefully it will happen soon. Our stay at home order is currently in effect until 5/1, sometime time after that, assuming it doesn't get extended.  

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Geez, I don't know how I missed this thread! Unfortunately, I wasn't around much last year, since I was working 6-7 days a week, but I've been a huge fan of DoubleDowns's work, ever since seeing it for the first time, back in 2013 or so. Anyways, I'd love a DoubleDown made controller (probably a regular CV controller - maybe DK or Pac-Man, etc), if any are still available. I'll definitely keep an eye out! Good to see you back! 😎

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Howdy all...I hope everyone is still healthy and staying safe.  I'm still "working from home", probably through the end of this week.  So while I don't yet have any new finished controllers to show off, I did get some hardware in recently:

 

MgauHr.jpg

 

From left to right:

 

1) Original Taito published Space Invaders / Space Invaders Pt. II, cocktail table, 2-way joystick.  Taito opted for a more traditional 2-way "joystick" for their versions of Space Invaders cocktail tables, versus the rotating levers that Midway produced.  This will get used for a "Taito" Space Invaders themed custom controller.  

 

2) Original WICO black bat (w/ thumb button), 8-way, leaf switch replacement joystick.  I don't know of any game that came from the factory with with this stick, but I know WICO sold/advertised them as a replacement option for any arcade game that had 1 button on the joystick, like Zaxxon, Gorf, Ninja Gaiden, and the likes.  It is the true arcade quality equivalent of the WICO Command Control joysticks sold for so many home consoles back in the day.  I don't have any definitive plans for this one yet, but I found it for sale for a decent price and couldn't pass it up...they're pretty rare, especially in this, the leaf-switch variant.

 

3) Original Atari logo, 4-way, micro-switch joystick.  This is a similar style/type of joystick used in Gauntlet and a variety of other Atari released arcade games back in the day, including Atari's published Galaga '88, which were mostly conversions of Dragon Spirit and Pac-Mania cabinets.  That's right, ATARI published Namco's Galaga '88, not Bally/Midway.  While the Gauntlet versions were 8-way, leaf-switch versions, this one will will be used in a Galaga '88 themed custom controller, so it will remain a 4-way (although only 2 directions are used), micro-switch variant.  

 

4) Original Bally/Midway, 8-way, leaf-switch joystick.  I got 2 of these when I bought a pair of original Gorf, cocktail cabinet, control panels.  More rare than I originally knew when I bought them, they were only ever used in Bosconian, Bump 'n Jump, Gaplus, Journey, and Gorf (cocktail).  They look nearly identical to their 4-way counterparts, but the upper steel plate has a square stamped/deformed restrictor hole, versus the 4-way's diamond shape hole, and a few of the plastic bits on the bottom are different.  One of these will be used for a Gaplus themed custom controller, the 2nd one...no specific plans yet for it.  

 

5) Original Bally/Midway, 4-way, leaf-switch joystick.  This is the original joystick found in so many Bally/Midway published classics like Pac-Man, Ms. Pac-Man, Tapper, Burgertime, Rally-X, Wizard of Wor...and heaps of others.  A guy over at the arcade forums had 1 complete and 1 partial of these he was selling at a good price, so I picked them up to finally get my hands on one.  I need to take some measurements off of this one for the the "sustainable reproduction" I'm trying to make, and after that, I'll probably make myself a proper Midway 4-way custom controller for something...not sure what yet.

 

6)...and lastly just for a little size/build comparison, a modern-day Seimitsu Japanese candy cabinet joystick.  

 

Hopefully if we go back into the office next week, I'll have some new controllers built up soon!

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Well, still working from home...but I got some more "new to me", hardware in:

 

SxMqHN.jpg

 

From left to right:

 

1) Original Galaxian, Japanese, Namco 2-way joystick.  This one will be used for a Galaxian "Japanese upright cabinet" themed experience controller.  I already have the artwork for this one finished, and it's ready to build once I order a few other parts, and can get back onto the CNC mill at work.

 

2 & 3) Orginal Galaxian/Galaga/Root Beer Tapper, North American, Bally/Midway 2-way joysticks.  I was just looking for 1 of these, but they came as a set for a good price, so I couldn't pass it up.  One of these will be used for a Galaga themed experience controller, and I've already taken the necessary measurements that I needed for my reproduction Root Beer Tapper, tap-handle controllers that I'll be making.  I also have the artwork for the Galaga controller finished, and it's ready to be built once I order a few other parts, and can get back onto the CNC mill at work.

 

4) Original Data East, DECO 4-way joystick.  So Data East developed/designed the game BurgerTime, and released it in their DECO cassette-based conversion cabinets.  But they also sold publishing rights to Bally/Midway, who also released it...in their more well known dedicated cabinets.  So I'll definitely be making an Burgertime, "Data East DECO style" experience controller, and if I'm up to it, maybe I'll make the Bally/Midway version too.  We'll have to wait and see on that one.  

 

And lastly, I worked out a deal today for a very cool and rare joystick that I will use for a Frogger themed enhanced controller.  It's not the "arcade accurate" WICO, skinny/tall shaft joystick, but it's a joystick type/style that I really like, and in this particular case, I think will look a lot better than the original for the overall Frogger theme.  I got the artwork for this one finished up today and it looks awesome, but again...I'll need to order a few more parts, and get time on the CNC mill.  

 

I've got a lot of controllers builds stacking up in the back-log over here...hopefully I'll be able to get some work done on them sometime soon.  Stay safe and stay tuned!

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On 4/24/2020 at 12:11 PM, doubledown said:

But as the idea of this is to create a super flashy WarGames controller, I could see installing an 8-position rotary switch wired through some kind of switch as a dedicated P1 start button, like what would have been in an arcade.  Possibly a key-switch (or two), or a big flip covered toggle switch like we see in the movies when missile launching is involved. 

I love all of these ideas! WOPR inspired design would be sweet too. Another crazy idea: a digitized “Greetings Professor Falken” voice that plays when the game starts. 

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18 hours ago, joltguy said:

I love all of these ideas! WOPR inspired design would be sweet too. Another crazy idea: a digitized “Greetings Professor Falken” voice that plays when the game starts. 

good idea🤖

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19 hours ago, joltguy said:

I love all of these ideas! WOPR inspired design would be sweet too. Another crazy idea: a digitized “Greetings Professor Falken” voice that plays when the game starts. 

 

57 minutes ago, Mr. John ColecoVision said:

good idea🤖

This controller would end up costing more than the real WOPR!

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17 hours ago, doubledown said:

 

This controller would end up costing more than the real WOPR!

😁 Heheheh, maybe. But you could possibly(?) use one of those cheap pre-recorded sound chips from a Hallmark card to make it more cost effective. Sound quality wouldn't have to be top-notch as its emulating 1983 speech synthesis. Anyway, it's not really important it was just a random idea. I'm much more interested in what the controller will look like!

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I think it could end up as somewhere between very cool...to over to moon amazing...depending on how much time and money I threw at it.  The biggest problem is, while I love the idea of a super cool War Games controller...I have never really spent much time playing the game, and I didn't play it as a kid so I don't have those fond childhood memories of it.  Then add on top of that the fact that I've got about 12 other controllers ahead of it right now.  I'm sure I'll do something with it at some point...I just don't know how "soon" I'll be able to get to it.  

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3 hours ago, doubledown said:

I'm sure I'll do something with it at some point...I just don't know how "soon" I'll be able to get to it.  

No worries, if/when ever you get around to it I’ll be curious to see it!

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Well I'm finally back to work, which means I can finally get some time on the CNC mill, and I can finally get back to creating more world-class controllers.  With that being said...A Star Is Born!  Unveiling my Star Cursor Edition - VVG Enhanced Controller:

 

K4ChT9.png

 

Kffigw.png

 

And as a reminder...here's the original:

 

jv0J0c.png

 

Built into a Hammond 17" x 10" flat top enclosure (required due to the mounting depth of the joystick), this is my homage to the Australian-made Star Cursor MCA-201 home video game joystick, from back in the good old days.  The components used in the build are as follows:

 

*MCA Australia, Top Fire Joystick (arcade original), rebuilt with new Cherry micro-switches

*iL, PSL-L Concave Cherry micro-switch push-buttons, 1 red, 1 yellow

*Sanwa, OBSF-24KK, 24mm square key-switch push-buttons, 10 red, 2 yellow

*NKK, ON-OFF-ON paddle switch - The orientation of this switch determines how the joystick's top fire button is wired/connected...either as a duplicate Left Fire button, Off (disconnected), or as a duplicate Right Fire button.  

...and of course a brand new 10' controller cord, with cleats on the rear of the housing to wrap it all up nice and tidy.

 

Installing the square buttons is an absolute royal pain, but I do like the way they look.  I'm contemplating adding some artwork to the front face, as it looks a bit plain.  Fortunately that can be added any anytime now if I choose to.  Enjoy...and hopefully more new controllers to be unveiled soon!

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