Best Display for Atari 5200 w/UAV Mod?

[mlordi]

I would like to buy a dedicated display (tv/monitor) for the Atari 5200. Is there a preferred/best route to go? 

[+DrVenkman]

Any good CRT with composite. Bonus if it has S-video. Most consumer TV's had from until around the mid-Aughts. I have two Toshibas from 2002/2003 that both look great through my UAV-modded systems. Although I can use S-video, I actually prefer composite for my game systems - it's a lot sharper and cleaner than the RF I used as a kid but still has a bit of blending and artifacting that you lose with S-video. 

 

Of course, CRT snobs will demand you go out and spend $150 on a Sony PVM or some stupid thing, but for a game console, and when CRTs are literally given away for free all over the place, that's just dumb in my opinion. Take that $150 and buy some spare consoles or games you don't have. 

[mlordi]

Interesting point about the composite vs S-video. 

I think I'll look into something with both and see what I prefer.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Are there any 5200 games that use artifacting? After playing Fractalus through composite and then on my s-video setup, I cannot go back to anything but s-video at this point on my 5200. So sharp and clean I just love it!

 

[+DrVenkman]

20 hours ago, -^Cro§Bow^- said:

Are there any 5200 games that use artifacting? After playing Fractalus through composite and then on my s-video setup, I cannot go back to anything but s-video at this point on my 5200. So sharp and clean I just love it!

 

Yeah, I guess not in the classical sense of old A8 Gr.8 games and the green/purple colors and moire patterns you’d get on RF and composite you could create with careful pixel placement. I was sloppy in my terminology then - more like “pixel smear” or glow or whatever you want to call it. To me, games of that era just don’t right if they’re TOO sharp. I need to see some fuzziness - not much, mind you! - but just a bit, in order to really get the nostalgia going for me.

That said, I still need to UAV-mod my own 5200. I’ve seen too many confusing stories about how to actually accomplish it (can you remove the 4050 or do you need to piggy-back? Etc.) plus I also need to do the power mod. Got the parts for that but haven’t actually done it.

[jaybird3rd]

21 hours ago, -^Cro§Bow^- said:

Are there any 5200 games that use artifacting? After playing Fractalus through composite and then on my s-video setup, I cannot go back to anything but s-video at this point on my 5200. So sharp and clean I just love it!

The first one that comes to mind is Choplifter!, and I think a few of the prototypes as well (A.E., Micro-gammon, Miniature Golf, etc).  I'm sure there are 400/800 conversions which use artifacting also.

 

On 7/19/2019 at 5:39 PM, DrVenkman said:

Any good CRT with composite. Bonus if it has S-video. Most consumer TV's had from until around the mid-Aughts. I have two Toshibas from 2002/2003 that both look great through my UAV-modded systems. Although I can use S-video, I actually prefer composite for my game systems - it's a lot sharper and cleaner than the RF I used as a kid but still has a bit of blending and artifacting that you lose with S-video.

I agree: a CRT display with composite is a nice middle-of-the-road option.  I also agree that there's no need to go for an expensive display; if you can find an inexpensive CRT TV locally, and if it works and doesn't stink of cigarette smoke, by all means scoop it up and avoid the cost and headache of having a CRT shipped to you.

 

(If you do decide to order a CRT, you might consider a professional-grade monitor instead of a TV.  I haven't tried it with the 5200 yet, but the CRT that I use the most these days is the JVC TM-A13SU: it supports two composite inputs—although you'll need to use BNC to RCA adapters—and it's just about the perfect size for classic games.  Depending on where you are, you can find one on eBay for under $80 shipped if you keep your eyes open.)

[+-^CrossBow^-]

5 hours ago, DrVenkman said:

That said, I still need to UAV-mod my own 5200. I’ve seen too many confusing stories about how to actually accomplish it (can you remove the 4050 or do you need to piggy-back? Etc.) plus I also need to do the power mod. Got the parts for that but haven’t actually done it.

I always use the 4050 still and piggy back it on top of the UAV like I did in my 5200 UAV installation video. I'm still not sure how Bryan got his to work without the 4050 because everyone else I've spoke with that has done UAVs in 5200s has stated they still needed the 4050 in circuit and it is a sure fire way to make sure that it will work.