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Incognito - Now's your chance!


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1 hour ago, Jeffrey Worley said:

I don't know why either, but, mine all work and this is how I wired them:

 

 

 

Thanks Jeff!  I guess the LED must be doing something to enable the circuit to completely work.    I assume this didn't work without the LED?   is that switch a button, or an actual switch - like you flip it one way, and it swaps, flip it back and nothing happens?  

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1 hour ago, Xebec said:

Thanks Jeff!  I guess the LED must be doing something to enable the circuit to completely work.    I assume this didn't work without the LED?   is that switch a button, or an actual switch - like you flip it one way, and it swaps, flip it back and nothing happens?  

The button is a bog standard arduino switch, suitable for making up a keyboard or keypad.  Just a low voltage SPST normally open momentary.

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1 hour ago, Xebec said:

  I guess the LED must be doing something to enable the circuit to completely work. 

It may in Jeff’s circuit/layout, but it is absolutely unnecessary in the “standard” header wiring setup. There are three pins on that header of the Incognito - two active (positive) pins, separated by a ground that’s used in common in my (and the most common) wiring. One of the two pins goes high during HDD activity, driving the LED. The other stays high until grounded by the momentary-contact ATR swap button. When that pin goes low, the swap occurs. Easy peasy.

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4 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

It may in Jeff’s circuit/layout, but it is absolutely unnecessary in the “standard” header wiring setup. There are three pins on that header of the Incognito - two active (positive) pins, separated by a ground that’s used in common in my (and the most common) wiring. One of the two pins goes high during HDD activity, driving the LED. The other stays high until grounded by the momentary-contact ATR swap button. When that pin goes low, the swap occurs. Easy peasy.

I thought something along these same lines, in fact, trying  to make the circuit from memory, more than once, I've created things that did not work, even though they should, like a three-wire version that connects ping 1 to pin 2 through the spst (NO) switch.  That one should work but doesn't.  I moved from that to connecting the other side of the SPST NO switch to the shield, thinking that sharing the ground with the LED anode was the problem.  That didn't work.  Then I probably made some mistake or other, or just through diddling the available 16 combinations of the four contacts (mine had four before I deleted pin 1) and discovered that, weirdly, grounding the ground pin on the header (earthing pin 2) accomplished the .atr swap I was looking for.  I have never run across a schematic of the header, only the videos on You-tube.  I wanted something easier and less likely to cause trouble as a seller of four of the machines to folks all over the planet.  The provided way looks beautiful and I love it for that and its inventiveness, but I was afraid it might jam or flake on me and cause a return from Holland or California or Oklahoma.  For three of the four I shipped, only the LED worked.  For the fourth, I finally made this discovery and enabled the switch.  I will happily replace the switches on the  other three, if the clients would like one.  Making this little board costs next to nothing, anyone can install it in a matter of minutes with no expertise at all, and it can be unplugged just as easily. All of these things were important to me as I did not know who would be operating the machines, their level of technical savvy and/or courage, and I was providing all the parts removed in modification along with the machines for some theoretical future when they might be un-upgraded and returned to their pre-capture state to be re-released as stock 800's.

 

Best,

 

Jeff

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Still need to fix the sizing of the lines a tad, and obviously need to do something about the color, then figure out a disconnect method so I can pull it out easy.

Otherwise I would say not bad at all.  Waiting on my SCCC before I full on open it back up and put that inside, I may wire it up though just to have it working, since that should be really easy to do it quick and dirty.

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On 5/12/2020 at 6:30 PM, Xebec said:

ATR Swap question time - for testing purposes, I've got a wire connected to pin 3 of P6, and have tried tapping it / touching it to the ground point exposed on the 800 board that connects to power board pin 22, but the swap doesn't work.

 

I've also touching to the ground ring right on the power board right next to the main 22 pin connector and no luck either.  (Circled both below)

 

Why would a quick tap of wire from P6 pin 3 to these ground points not work to activate an ATR swap? 

AtariGND.jpg

EDIT/Update: Working now - It didn't work because ATR Swap button was DISABLED In the BIOS.   Duh me ! :).  (Thanks Jeff for the nudge !) 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/27/2020 at 2:23 PM, Faicuai said:

Well, why don't we let everyone choose based on their preference?

 

External hole:

D5AE2D46-2B75-4C31-9B79-C66527DB41A5.jpeg.c37734ed6a647cc97cc44c67e153ace3.jpeg

 

 

Internal drilling:

02577CBA-00AB-4699-908C-265C7881246C.thumb.jpeg.b795538fb28aa95529f389485cf91c54.jpeg

 

I am sure there's a taste for everyone...

I am just quoting this because...

Now here is my little holder, just need to figure out where I am going to route the wiring and see about making it detachable!but as it is sized right now, I should be able to take the lid off without moving this.  I may need to shrink it a little more, but not much. 

20200523_150337.jpg

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  • 7 months later...
On 10/29/2019 at 1:38 AM, shoestring said:

Scrolled through the last few pages of this thread so I'm wondering if this a known issue or is this a first ? ( notice the vertical bar in the bios menu, photo and vid attached ).

 

It doesn't appear to be reproduced in the side loader menu..  very strange.

 

 

incognito.thumb.png.939623ba910ae8736716b32c296c664b.png

 

 

Untitled.mpg 5.02 MB · 14 downloads

Finally got closure on this weird problem. My PVM died which kinda delayed some other projects I was working on, so I converted the machine to PAL so I could use it on my 1048s which is PAL also.

 

After doing the conversion, the above problem got a lot worse, in certain games too ( especially Dropzone &  Bosconian )

 

The only thing I haven't tried was another 6502. So I swapped the Synertek 6502B for a spare Sally. Good thing the SCCC card lets you use both. Problem gone, who'd have thought ?

 

 

Edited by shoestring
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