Ultimate 1M 600XL Installation

[_The Doctor__]

generally when searching for sockets and ids you can put the terms low, profile, no strain, etc in your query... for the ids you might  choose, profile, no strain, low, and look at the dimensions... some vendors have differing terminology in regard to machine pin or collet, same goes for profile or height... so it can come down to reading the dimensions of the offered product

https://www.arieselec.com/products/data/12011-dip-collet-socket.htm

https://www.arieselec.com/products/data/10018-low-profile-zif-test-socket.htm

low profile idc and ids generally have a Z height of 1 mm less than standard... and of course no strain relief either.

pretty dry stuff, it can get boring looking at dimension specs

Edited August 29, 2019 by _The Doctor__

[Faicuai]

2 hours ago, jc13 said:

I was just working on this today and this is my planned location (RF modulator spot).  I pulled an older U1MB from my 800xl that had right angle headers and swapped the smaller connector (at the back) with two rows of vertical pin headers (with the plastic bit underneath and the pin height adjusted so the connector made contact properly.  As others mentioned, removing the strain relief on the connector was also required.  I need to figure out another support standoff or two, but it looks like this might fit completely under the RF shield.  Also, I'll likely have to modify the headers for the HLT/Reset, etc. lines since the supplied wires will stand too tall.

 

For your consideration:

 

Ultimate's architecture is of the "field/user-serviceable" type. If you get bricked while flashing, you can pull-out the 512K flash-rom chip (top-side) and re-flash externally. If you need to upload new .JED file on CPLD / Xilinx, you can do that as well, right from the JTAG programming-connector (10-pins, top-side). If the battery dies, well, a bit more disassembly required, but replaceable (bottom-side). 

 

HOWEVER, if you fit the board under the shields, you will have to ALSO remove them whenever any of the above needs to be performed. These shields need to be properly affixed back on their place, either by screws+bolts (my 800XLs), or by flexible flaps (I have seen those, and I would kill them if I could). This would make the disassembly process a royal annoyance, in general. About 11-12 screws, disconnection of keyboard, complete removal of MoBo from the case and final shield-disassembly...  without mentioning that, in the case of a CPLD update, you will need to power-up the MoBo all naked, so you get the right Vref level on Ultimate / Xilinx... and then put everything back in, in reverse...

 

Therefore, you may consider installing it in a way that shields (still present) would not interfere with such maintenance tasks (unless, of course, you don't mind any of the above). Also remember that you still have to attach the ROM-socket ribbon (it is wider/thicker), which now has to travel a longer distance from the board-location you are studying.

 

Some food for thought. YMMV, though.

[jc13]

On 8/28/2019 at 9:22 PM, Faicuai said:

For your consideration:

 

Ultimate's architecture is of the "field/user-serviceable" type. If you get bricked while flashing, you can pull-out the 512K flash-rom chip (top-side) and re-flash externally. If you need to upload new .JED file on CPLD / Xilinx, you can do that as well, right from the JTAG programming-connector (10-pins, top-side). If the battery dies, well, a bit more disassembly required, but replaceable (bottom-side). 

 

HOWEVER, if you fit the board under the shields, you will have to ALSO remove them whenever any of the above needs to be performed. These shields need to be properly affixed back on their place, either by screws+bolts (my 800XLs), or by flexible flaps (I have seen those, and I would kill them if I could). This would make the disassembly process a royal annoyance, in general. About 11-12 screws, disconnection of keyboard, complete removal of MoBo from the case and final shield-disassembly...  without mentioning that, in the case of a CPLD update, you will need to power-up the MoBo all naked, so you get the right Vref level on Ultimate / Xilinx... and then put everything back in, in reverse...

 

Therefore, you may consider installing it in a way that shields (still present) would not interfere with such maintenance tasks (unless, of course, you don't mind any of the above). Also remember that you still have to attach the ROM-socket ribbon (it is wider/thicker), which now has to travel a longer distance from the board-location you are studying.

 

Some food for thought. YMMV, though.

Thanks for the feedback on this - all valid points.  Not sure if all 600XLs are like mine, but it really wasn't too bad removing the shields - the top/bottom shields were held together with the bent over tabs you mentioned and maybe 4-5 screws holding it together and to the bottom case.  At any rate, I already had it in my head that I wanted to try to get the shields back on and it actually worked out pretty well.    The main issues were getting the vertical headers for the MMU cable low enough, having the older U1MB with the right angle headers so I didn't have to desolder too much, and replacing the vertical header with the HALT/RESET, etc. signals to a right angle header and flipping it to the underside of the board.  As you mentioned, I needed a longer cable for the ROM adapter, but it all went back together pretty easily.

 

 

[mutterminder]

I tried to find a good picture of some good connection points for my U1MB and I was unable to locate them anywhere.  Eventually I gave up and just decided to figure it out for myself.  As a public service to anyone in the future who is seeking the same information, I am posting here pictures of my installation.   I found some good vias on the motherboard to make the required connections for the U1MB.  As a reminder to anyone undertaking this mod, the 600XL must first be upgraded to 64K. The first picture shows all of the connection points on the PCB including the required modifications for 64K. (The 64K mod is the blue bus wire.)  The second picture also show the connections on the U1MB in case your wires are not the same color.

 

[flashjazzcat]

There are lots of vias near the PBI connector for everything aside from HLT.

[mutterminder]

If I install another one of these, I may try that location.  The issue was that I don't have as much time for this sort of thing as I might like, so I was looking for quick "do it like this" instructions.  Lotharek's  website gives enough information to figure out where to make the connections, but there are no clear pictures of a 600XL.  Nor could I find any on the Atari Age forums.  I'm not saying there aren't any here, just that I couldn't find them.  All the things considered, the U1MB upgrade is pretty painless relative to some other mods.  This most time consuming one that I have ever done on a 600XL is the Super Video 2.1 mod.  I was pretty happy with the results, but with UAV now available,  I doubt that I will undertake another Super Video 2.1 mod.

 

 

[JGRAHAM2]

I finally got everything to fit! 64k upgrade, UAV, and U1M

 

[Level42]

Looking at this I actually can’t remember how I did it. I did use Jon’s video as a guide though.

 

ill have a look tomorrow...

[Irata 008]

Can anyone provide advice (and web-links) to right angle pin headers which are suitable for the U1MB being installed in an Atari 600XL please. my U1MB has straight pin headers & will definitely not fit in my 600XL case - with or without the case!

 

My plan is to install the U1MB above the PBI connector using the 3d printed mount which avoids the need to drill the 600XL circuit board - albeit I have a strong suspicion it is not going to work there due to the location of the keyboard ribbon cable connector - so may need to remove the RF box and install it there instead... 

 

I have found this one on Aliexpress for the 10x2 header - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009332666.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.71d75d30327t01&algo_pvid=bf03d123-4a60-4b3b-8814-6e998ffd13da&algo_expid=bf03d123-4a60-4b3b-8814-6e998ffd13da-4&btsid=0bb0624716216576842612800eed36&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 

 

I wonder if that will work? or if there is a better option available?

 

I was going to buy this one for the 15x2 header - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32699004242.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.75f3292blxBn8X&algo_pvid=b89b8d2f-7d65-4fd8-a472-39137a0d56e5&algo_expid=b89b8d2f-7d65-4fd8-a472-39137a0d56e5-4&btsid=0bb0624316216577312767035e6cf4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 

 

... but Aliexpress says that one is no longer available.

 

I also wondered about this breakable double header strip 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33043163402.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.32797816NGsWz3&algo_pvid=e4177ebc-9d7b-4b64-999e-a8164f3e80bf&algo_expid=e4177ebc-9d7b-4b64-999e-a8164f3e80bf-3&btsid=0bb0622c16219917515176612e46f9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

I am based in New Zealand so China is good for cheap shipping, but I am happy to purchase elsewhere if that means obtaining the best correct parts.

 

Also, out of interest, does any U1MB situation require straight header pins?  It seems odd that Lotharek uses straight pins and not bent. Even his webpage for U1MB pictures one with bent header pins.

 

Cheers.

[BillC]

10 minutes ago, Irata 008 said:

Can anyone provide advice (and web-links) to right angle pin headers which are suitable for the U1MB being installed in an Atari 600XL please. my U1MB has straight pin headers & will definitely not fit in my 600XL case - with or without the case!

 

My plan is to install the U1MB above the PBI connector using the 3d printed mount which avoids the need to drill the 600XL circuit board - albeit I have a strong suspicion it is not going to work there due to the location of the keyboard ribbon cable connector - so may need to remove the RF box and install it there instead... 

 

I have found this one on Aliexpress for the 10x2 header - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009332666.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.71d75d30327t01&algo_pvid=bf03d123-4a60-4b3b-8814-6e998ffd13da&algo_expid=bf03d123-4a60-4b3b-8814-6e998ffd13da-4&btsid=0bb0624716216576842612800eed36&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 

 

I wonder if that will work? or if there is a better option available?

 

I was going to buy this one for the 15x2 header - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32699004242.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.75f3292blxBn8X&algo_pvid=b89b8d2f-7d65-4fd8-a472-39137a0d56e5&algo_expid=b89b8d2f-7d65-4fd8-a472-39137a0d56e5-4&btsid=0bb0624316216577312767035e6cf4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 

 

... but Aliexpress says that one is no longer available.

 

I also wondered about this breakable double header strip 

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33043163402.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.32797816NGsWz3&algo_pvid=e4177ebc-9d7b-4b64-999e-a8164f3e80bf&algo_expid=e4177ebc-9d7b-4b64-999e-a8164f3e80bf-3&btsid=0bb0622c16219917515176612e46f9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

I am based in New Zealand so China is good for cheap shipping, but I am happy to purchase elsewhere if that means obtaining the best correct parts.

 

Also, out of interest, does any U1MB situation require straight header pins?  It seems odd that Lotharek uses straight pins and not bent. Even his webpage for U1MB pictures one with bent header pins.

 

Cheers.

Mytek's 1088XEL and 1088XLD require straight headers, the U1MB plugs directly into sockets on the motherboard. I believe Santos new 130XE/576XE PCB does this as well.

[Mazzspeed]

1 hour ago, Irata 008 said:

Can anyone provide advice (and web-links) to right angle pin headers which are suitable for the U1MB being installed in an Atari 600XL please. my U1MB has straight pin headers & will definitely not fit in my 600XL case - with or without the case!

It will fit if you mount the U1MB over the PBI slot, cut the nylon risers down to 10mm, and remove the stress relief clips off the ribbon connectors. I don't really plan on pulling my 600XL apart just to show images of the install, but based on the photo below you can see where I removed the stress relief clips off the large ribbon cable connector - Removing these clips won't affect reliability at all unless you plan on hanging your 600XL from the ribbon cable somehow...

 

As for the RF shield, I put it in a safe place nowhere near my 600XL (in other words, I didn't refit it). All they do is trap heat anyway.

 

You could remove the RF modulator and mount U1MB there, but clearance is more of an issue in the North/South mounting of the U1MB as you're closer to the center of the keyboard and if you want a Sophia 2 further down the track there's nowhere to mount the DVI daughterboard.

 

Edited May 26, 2021 by Mazzspeed

[+mytek]

Here's where I put it in my 600XL based on one of @flashjazzcat's installation videos.

 

 

But I did have to remove the strain relief clips on the ribbon connectors to get just a bit more clearance underneath the keyboard. And yes the standoffs did need to be cut down in length (I did it by trial and error, so don't have an exact height). However I was able to leave both ribbon cable assemblies at their stock lengths as supplied by Lotharek, just took some creative folding to make it all fit neatly.

 

[Mazzspeed]

3 hours ago, mytek said:

Here's where I put it in my 600XL based on one of @flashjazzcat's installation videos.

 

 

But I did have to remove the strain relief clips on the ribbon connectors to get just a bit more clearance underneath the keyboard. And yes the standoffs did need to be cut down in length (I did it by trial and error, so don't have an exact height). However I was able to leave both ribbon cable assemblies at their stock lengths as supplied by Lotharek, just took some creative folding to make it all fit neatly.

 

That's pretty much identical to my install. It's a really tight fit, and the Mylar ribbon cable to the keyboard will have to flex at an odd angle upon reassembly - But it's entirely possible.

[+mytek]

1 hour ago, Mazzspeed said:

That's pretty much identical to my install. It's a really tight fit, and the Mylar ribbon cable to the keyboard will have to flex at an odd angle upon reassembly - But it's entirely possible.

With the orientation of the U1MB on my install, the keyboard ribbon has a straight shot. Although drilling the mounting holes is much more tricky, since they are at the edge of the PCB.

 

Check out Jon's video to see what I mean...

 

 

[Mazzspeed]

44 minutes ago, mytek said:

With the orientation of the U1MB on my install, the keyboard ribbon has a straight shot. Although drilling the mounting holes is much more tricky, since they are at the edge of the PCB.

 

Check out Jon's video to see what I mean...

 

 

I think it all depends on the keyboard.

 

My 600XL has the mechanical variant, different to the one in FJC's video above, the fold in the Mylar gets sandwiched between the U1MB and the bottom of the keyboard. It's no real problem, but if you aren't aware of it and take care on reassembly of your 600XL, the keyboard connector gets pushed back and hits the underside of the console keys, pushing them up at weird angles.

 

EDIT: I also used Jon's video regarding my install, an excellent video.

Edited May 26, 2021 by Mazzspeed

[mdivancic]

There is a 3D printable part that can be used to mount the U1M with out drilling the motherboard. See attached thread and scroll toward the bottom for the 600XL mount. Available on Thingiverse as well.