Sid1968 Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 (edited) Hi Mates, i want to change the electrolytic capacitors in my PHA 2037. The PHA 2037 is a Modulator that connects the TI-99/4A EU PAL Version to a Monitor/TV via SCART. But how do i get the board out of the metallcase without damaging it??? At first i took of the solder of the contacts at the left bottom and the right top. Is the metall lug that is movable up and down after desoldering part of the case or the board? Everything sits bombproof, so i would have to use force to get the board out of it... but...i dont want to damage the board. So i ask you... Is there an elegant way to get the board out of the PHA 2037? Kind Regards Sid1968 Edited September 9, 2019 by Sid1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyDean Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 2 hours ago, Sid1968 said: Hi Mates, i want to change the electrolytic capacitors in my PHA 2037. The PHA 2037 is a Modulator that connects the TI-99/4A EU PAL Version to a Monitor/TV via SCART. But how do i get the board out of the metallcase without damaging it??? At first i took of the solder of the contacts at the left bottom and the right top. Is the metall lug that is movable up and down after desoldering part of the case or the board? Everything sits bombproof, so i would have to use force to get the board out of it... but...i dont want to damage the board. So i ask you... Is there an elegant way to get the board out of the PHA 2037? Kind Regards Sid1968 Sid1968, it looks like all you need to do is remove blobs of solder at the point I have circled in my attached photo (vacuum sucker, desoldering braid). Then ease the black cord from their slots and maybe take a angle scribe or a plastic tool like used to open a Iphone or something and then ease the board out. Seems like it would work from your photo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew180 Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 Flux, wick, and a little more heat than normal to deal with the metal box that will be acting as a heat-sink. Once those two points that Stargunner pointed out are desoldered, it looks like the board should lift out. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOME AUTOMATION Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 I prefer to do things the MANLY way! Blowtorch from the outside. Try not to burn fingers too much plucking at board and pulling on caps that will be replaced anyway. ♂️ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted September 9, 2019 Share Posted September 9, 2019 1 hour ago, HOME AUTOMATION said: I prefer to do things the MANLY way! Blowtorch from the outside. Try not to burn fingers too much plucking at board and pulling on caps that will be replaced anyway. ♂️ Not manly enough. You need to work on the whole enclosure from within an oven. It will melt all of the solder and you can just pull and replace the components at will. Easy. If you're still a pansy, then wear an asbestos suit. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOME AUTOMATION Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 While I do possess a rack of fine asbestos apparel... For small jobs like this, I find an everyday kilt and careful placement of the work item between the knees, will more than suffice. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 (edited) Thank you Mates, for your good advices. Here you see the recaped PHA 2037. Since the picture where a little pale i turned the rotary potentiometer a little to the left. But look yourself.. isnt it a really good picture quality on my LCD-TV now? ? Edited September 12, 2019 by Sid1968 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOME AUTOMATION Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 Sure does! No pic. from when it was still wimpy? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted September 12, 2019 Share Posted September 12, 2019 28 minutes ago, Sid1968 said: But look yourself.. isn't it a really good picture quality on my LCD-TV now? ? It's actually quite good! I've NEVER seen an image that clear using one of the RF converters on this side of the pond, in fact rarely even with straight composite input. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 (edited) 46 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said: It's actually quite good! I've NEVER seen an image that clear using one of the RF converters on this side of the pond, in fact rarely even with straight composite input. No composit input. Its an EU PAL TI-99/4A. Its YPbPr over 6-PIN DIN Input and SCART RGB Output with the PHA 2037. I recapped (new electrolytic capacitors) my TI-99/4A yesterday too, so maybe thats another reason for a better image quality. Edited September 12, 2019 by Sid1968 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 45 minutes ago, HOME AUTOMATION said: Sure does! No pic. from when it was still wimpy? The colors where so pale, that is was nearly black and white. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) Hi Folks, as you can see on the screenshots above the picture quality with the PHA 2037 SCART-Modulator is indeed good, but if you look twice its delayed leftwards. I have this delay on both of my LCD-TVs with both of my TI-99/4A, so that i guess its a problem with the PHA 2037. Until now i have not found a solution. Any ideas? Cheers Sid Edited October 4, 2019 by Sid1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti99iuc Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 I think this is a problem using LCDs you should not see it using CRTs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) Ok, thank you. How do we fix this problem? I guess the solution would be a rotary-potentiometer to adjust the horizontal image position. But... i dont know where to set it on the mainboard... Edited October 4, 2019 by Sid1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChildOfCv Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Computers do the timing by clock ticks, not by potentiometer. Does your TV have any options related to overscan? It's probably chopping off the left side because most things shown on a TV are from video sources, and they expect to have the edges trimmed. The TI probably expects to be seen by a monitor that doesn't have that hangup. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) I can set the ratio. 16:9 or 4:3 what i use. My Monitor is a LG M2232D PZ. The manual can be found here: LG M2232D PZ Edited October 4, 2019 by Sid1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 (edited) Interposing a SCART TO HDMI - Converter between the PHA 2037 and the LCD-Monitor brought the solution. Look at this... no more picturedelay. Yippee! ? The Picture has a higher color saturation as on the screenshot above, since i turned the rotary potentiometer in the PHA 2037 more to the left again. Kind Regards from Germany Sid Edited October 5, 2019 by Sid1968 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 How much frame delay is there from the SCART->HDMI converter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 (edited) Dont know exactly what you mean. Choosing 50Hz on the Converter (1920x1080@50Hz) leads to a delay to the right. Choosing 60Hz on the Converter (1280 x 1024@60 Hz) leads to success. Or do you ask if games have stuttering / lags? No they dont. Edited October 5, 2019 by Sid1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 I was meaning that often times, these analog to digital converters impose a few milliseconds of delay while it does its processing between the source and its generated output. If yours is a good highspeed one, with no discernible delay, fantastic-- just be wary that not all such converters are so fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sid1968 Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 (edited) I had that one in my "retrowarehouse". E.g. VIC-20 needs another converter to go to LCD. Converters are in the Commodorecommunity normal. But its right that there are good and bad ones. This one is a cheap SCART TO HDMI Converter that i never used, because it doesnt lead to acceptable results on Commodore Machines. There the pictures had vertical stripes. As you can see on the TI-99/4A it works great... To be honest, i never had a converter that produced inputdelays in a noticeable manner. Bad ones mostly produced that vertical stripes. I can only speak of my experiences with converters on Commodore Computers. ? Edited October 5, 2019 by Sid1968 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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