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Sid1968

How to open a PHA 2037 without destoying the Board

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Hi Mates,

i want to change the electrolytic capacitors in my PHA 2037.

The PHA 2037 is a Modulator that connects the TI-99/4A EU PAL Version

to a Monitor/TV via SCART.

 

 

IMG_20190909_153653135.jpg

 

 

But how do i get the board out of the metallcase without damaging it???

 

At first i took of the solder of the contacts at the left bottom and the right top.

Is the metall lug that is movable up and down after desoldering part of the case or the board?

 

Everything sits bombproof, so i would have to use force to get the board out of it... but...i dont want to damage the board.

 

So i ask you... Is there an elegant way to get the board out of the PHA 2037?

 

 

Kind Regards

Sid1968

Edited by Sid1968

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2 hours ago, Sid1968 said:

Hi Mates,

i want to change the electrolytic capacitors in my PHA 2037.

The PHA 2037 is a Modulator that connects the TI-99/4A EU PAL Version

to a Monitor/TV via SCART.

 

 

IMG_20190909_153653135.jpg

 

 

But how do i get the board out of the metallcase without damaging it???

 

At first i took of the solder of the contacts at the left bottom and the right top.

Is the metall lug that is movable up and down after desoldering part of the case or the board?

 

Everything sits bombproof, so i would have to use force to get the board out of it... but...i dont want to damage the board.

 

So i ask you... Is there an elegant way to get the board out of the PHA 2037?

 

 

Kind Regards

Sid1968

Sid1968, it looks like all you need to do is remove blobs of solder at the point I have circled in my attached photo (vacuum sucker, desoldering braid). Then ease the black cord from their slots and maybe take a angle scribe or a plastic  tool like used to open a Iphone or something and then ease the board out. Seems like it would work from your photo.

Modulator.jpg

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Flux, wick, and a little more heat than normal to deal with the metal box that will be acting as a heat-sink.  Once those two points that Stargunner pointed out are desoldered, it looks like the board should lift out.

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I prefer to do things the MANLY way!
Blowtorch from the outside.
Try not to burn fingers too much plucking at board and pulling on caps that will be replaced anyway.

♂️:cool:

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1 hour ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

I prefer to do things the MANLY way!
Blowtorch from the outside.
Try not to burn fingers too much plucking at board and pulling on caps that will be replaced anyway.

♂️:cool:

Not manly enough.  You need to work on the whole enclosure from within an oven.  It will melt all of the solder and you can just pull and replace the components at will.  Easy.  If you're still a pansy, then wear an asbestos suit.

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While I do possess a rack of fine asbestos apparel...

 

For small jobs like this, I find an everyday kilt and careful placement of the work item between the knees, will more than suffice.:grin:

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Thank you Mates, for your good advices. Here you see the recaped PHA 2037. Since the picture where a little pale i turned the rotary potentiometer a little to the left. But look yourself.. isnt it a really good picture quality on my LCD-TV now? 🙂

 

 

IMG_20190912_132424292.jpg

IMG_20190912_132514458.jpg

Edited by Sid1968
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28 minutes ago, Sid1968 said:

But look yourself.. isn't it a really good picture quality on my LCD-TV now? 🙂

 

IMG_20190912_132514458.jpg

It's actually quite good!  I've NEVER seen an image that clear using one of the RF converters on this side of the pond, in fact rarely even with straight composite input. :thumbsup:

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46 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said:

It's actually quite good!  I've NEVER seen an image that clear using one of the RF converters on this side of the pond, in fact rarely even with straight composite input. :thumbsup:

No composit input. Its an EU PAL TI-99/4A. Its YPbPr over 6-PIN DIN Input and SCART RGB Output with the PHA 2037.

I recapped (new electrolytic capacitors) my TI-99/4A yesterday too, so maybe thats another reason for a better image quality.

 

 

IMG_20190912_135618490.jpg

Edited by Sid1968
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45 minutes ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

Sure does!

 

No pic. from when it was still wimpy?

:-D

The colors where so pale, that is was nearly black and white.

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