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How to open a PHA 2037 without destoying the Board


Sid1968

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Hi Mates,

i want to change the electrolytic capacitors in my PHA 2037.

The PHA 2037 is a Modulator that connects the TI-99/4A EU PAL Version

to a Monitor/TV via SCART.

 

 

IMG_20190909_153653135.jpg

 

 

But how do i get the board out of the metallcase without damaging it???

 

At first i took of the solder of the contacts at the left bottom and the right top.

Is the metall lug that is movable up and down after desoldering part of the case or the board?

 

Everything sits bombproof, so i would have to use force to get the board out of it... but...i dont want to damage the board.

 

So i ask you... Is there an elegant way to get the board out of the PHA 2037?

 

 

Kind Regards

Sid1968

Edited by Sid1968
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2 hours ago, Sid1968 said:

Hi Mates,

i want to change the electrolytic capacitors in my PHA 2037.

The PHA 2037 is a Modulator that connects the TI-99/4A EU PAL Version

to a Monitor/TV via SCART.

 

 

IMG_20190909_153653135.jpg

 

 

But how do i get the board out of the metallcase without damaging it???

 

At first i took of the solder of the contacts at the left bottom and the right top.

Is the metall lug that is movable up and down after desoldering part of the case or the board?

 

Everything sits bombproof, so i would have to use force to get the board out of it... but...i dont want to damage the board.

 

So i ask you... Is there an elegant way to get the board out of the PHA 2037?

 

 

Kind Regards

Sid1968

Sid1968, it looks like all you need to do is remove blobs of solder at the point I have circled in my attached photo (vacuum sucker, desoldering braid). Then ease the black cord from their slots and maybe take a angle scribe or a plastic  tool like used to open a Iphone or something and then ease the board out. Seems like it would work from your photo.

Modulator.jpg

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1 hour ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

I prefer to do things the MANLY way!
Blowtorch from the outside.
Try not to burn fingers too much plucking at board and pulling on caps that will be replaced anyway.

♂️:cool:

Not manly enough.  You need to work on the whole enclosure from within an oven.  It will melt all of the solder and you can just pull and replace the components at will.  Easy.  If you're still a pansy, then wear an asbestos suit.

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Thank you Mates, for your good advices. Here you see the recaped PHA 2037. Since the picture where a little pale i turned the rotary potentiometer a little to the left. But look yourself.. isnt it a really good picture quality on my LCD-TV now? ?

 

 

IMG_20190912_132424292.jpg

IMG_20190912_132514458.jpg

Edited by Sid1968
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46 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said:

It's actually quite good!  I've NEVER seen an image that clear using one of the RF converters on this side of the pond, in fact rarely even with straight composite input. :thumbsup:

No composit input. Its an EU PAL TI-99/4A. Its YPbPr over 6-PIN DIN Input and SCART RGB Output with the PHA 2037.

I recapped (new electrolytic capacitors) my TI-99/4A yesterday too, so maybe thats another reason for a better image quality.

 

 

IMG_20190912_135618490.jpg

Edited by Sid1968
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Folks,

 

as you can see on the screenshots above the picture quality with the PHA 2037 SCART-Modulator is indeed good, but if you look twice its delayed leftwards.

I have this delay on both of my LCD-TVs with both of my TI-99/4A, so that i guess its a problem with the PHA 2037. Until now i have not found a solution. Any ideas?

 

Cheers

Sid

 

Edited by Sid1968
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Computers do the timing by clock ticks, not by potentiometer.  Does your TV have any options related to overscan?  It's probably chopping off the left side because most things shown on a TV are from video sources, and they expect to have the edges trimmed.  The TI probably expects to be seen by a monitor that doesn't have that hangup.

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Interposing a SCART TO HDMI - Converter between the PHA 2037 and the LCD-Monitor brought the solution.

 

 

IMG_20191005_121852930.jpg

 

 

Look at this... no more picturedelay. Yippee! ?

The Picture has a higher color saturation as on the screenshot above,

since i turned the rotary potentiometer in the PHA 2037 more to the left again.

IMG_20191005_121420602.jpg

 

Kind Regards from Germany

Sid

 

Edited by Sid1968
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Dont know exactly what you mean.

Choosing 50Hz on the Converter (1920x1080@50Hz) leads to a delay to the right. Choosing 60Hz on the Converter  (1280 x 1024@60 Hz) leads to success.

 

Or do you ask if games have stuttering / lags? No they dont.

Edited by Sid1968
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I was meaning that often times, these analog to digital converters impose a few milliseconds of delay while it does its processing between the source and its generated output.  If yours is a good highspeed one, with no discernible delay, fantastic-- just be wary that not all such converters are so fast.

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I had that one in my "retrowarehouse". E.g. VIC-20 needs another converter to go to LCD. Converters are in the Commodorecommunity normal. But its right that there are good and bad ones. This one is a cheap SCART TO HDMI Converter that i never used, because it doesnt lead to acceptable results on Commodore Machines. There the pictures had vertical stripes. As you can see on the TI-99/4A it works great...

 

To be honest, i never had a converter that produced inputdelays in a noticeable manner. Bad ones mostly produced that vertical stripes. I can only speak of my experiences with converters on Commodore Computers.

 

 

?

Edited by Sid1968
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