Jaguar cartridge slot cover .STL?

[Machine]

1 hour ago, amiman99 said:

OK, I think I'm done, what do you think?

 

 

Anyway you can make it look like old cardboard?

Seriously, looks great!!!

[Gummy Bear]

22 minutes ago, amiman99 said:

OK, I think I'm done, what do you think?

 

Not as nice as mine, obviously, but looks very nice ?

[amiman99]

2 minutes ago, Machine said:

 

Anyway you can make it look like old cardboard?

Seriously, looks great!!!

Actually, I can. I have wood filament and it does look like cardboard, ha ha ha...

[RREDDWARFF]

Just now, amiman99 said:

Actually, I can. I have wood filament and it does look like cardboard, ha ha ha...

Ok, that would be freaking hilarious. 

[amiman99]

Ok, here is the printed version.

 

and printable files.

 

It was a nice weekend project.

 

jaguar-slot-cover.zip

[+Sargon]

Looks great!  How easy is it to get ahold of the cover to remove it from the slot?

[amiman99]

2 hours ago, Sargon said:

Looks great!  How easy is it to get ahold of the cover to remove it from the slot?

The cover is not deep set, it's pretty easy. There is a lip around it, so it does not fall in.

[Knuxie]

Amazing work, my friend!!!

[TheCoolDave]

Very cool.... Was trying to justify the cost of a 3-D printer... after the last few days, I think I can see the value in having one.... 

[Machine]

1 hour ago, TheCoolDave said:

Very cool.... Was trying to justify the cost of a 3-D printer... after the last few days, I think I can see the value in having one.... 

 

We use to use ours all the time. It is a little Monoprice one, cost less than $200. I was surprised at the quality of the printing, very good.

My son used it to sell those fidget spinners before they became a craze. He would come home with $20-$40 every day for severaal weeks. Paid off the printer in a few weeks.

Unfortunately, the fidget spinnners faded out after a few months and he lost his little side business.

 

If I found a cheap(or free) program to design things, I might use it more. I probably should look into that....

[amiman99]

2 hours ago, Machine said:

 

If I found a cheap(or free) program to design things, I might use it more. I probably should look into that....

Try https://www.tinkercad.com/ by Autocad it's free, that's what I'm using for simple stuff. For more complex shapes and more pro look, I use FreeCAD.

[Machine]

1 hour ago, amiman99 said:

Try https://www.tinkercad.com/ by Autocad it's free, that's what I'm using for simple stuff. For more complex shapes and more pro look, I use FreeCAD.

 

Thanks! Never messed with any of them, hopefully I can figure it out.

[amiman99]

1 hour ago, Machine said:

 

Thanks! Never messed with any of them, hopefully I can figure it out.

Tinkercad it's easy, you use primitives to create your objects. It also have some shape generators that are used to create different shapes.

When your project is done, then you can export it to STL or OBJ file and are ready to print.

You can also import objects in to Tinkercad and and add or remove parts from it.

 

Another program you can use is Meshmixer, good for fixing broken objects, and organic modeling.

[+Stephen Moss]

9 hours ago, Machine said:

If I found a cheap(or free) program to design things, I might use it more. I probably should look into that....

At work I have used Designspark mechanical which is free, its has its quirks but is pretty good particularly if you prefer to take a more engineering approach to your design (entering H, W & L values for precision) over dragging although you can do both.

[Greg2600]

I just got a Jag slot cover from @amiman99, and he made some tweaks.  It fits perfectly and doesn't fall out!

 

[amiman99]

Here is the updated version, the legs are longer so it stays put better.

 

jaguar-slot-tall4.stl

[KevinMos3]

On 7/26/2020 at 9:11 PM, amiman99 said:

Here is the updated version...

Thank you for that.  Here's a print I did of it.  Can you make a solid out of the "Jaguar" cutout for an additional .stl file?  I'd like to do a print with a proper inlay.  For this one, I just poured paint into the recesses and sanded off the excess.

 

[amiman99]

9 hours ago, KevinMos3 said:

Thank you for that.  Here's a print I did of it.  Can you make a solid out of the "Jaguar" cutout for an additional .stl file?  I'd like to do a print with a proper inlay.  For this one, I just poured paint into the recesses and sanded off the excess.

 

 

That looks nice!

I have one tip for printing, if you think that the logo is too deep, try to position the print at -1mm on the Z axis or more.

 

I'll make one cover with out the logo.

 

[amiman99]

Here you go, no logo slot cover.

jaguar-slot-tall-no-logo.stl

[KevinMos3]

Thanks.  I was referring to just the "Jaguar" cutout though -- turning that into a solid and having only the logo as an stl file.  That way I can print the "Jaguar" logo in red PLA, then use Z-hop when printing the gray, so the red logo will be inlayed with the cover.

Edited July 29, 2020 by KevinMos3

[amiman99]

So, Jaguar Logo.

OK, here it is.

 

Can you show us how you do that? Maybe a Youtube link?

Thanks

 

jaguar-logo.stl

Edited July 29, 2020 by amiman99

[mmbe]

How much does the cover weigh in grams? The reason I ask is that my local library does 3D printing and they charge by the gram - about 20 cents per gram.

[amiman99]

3 hours ago, mmbe said:

How much does the cover weigh in grams? The reason I ask is that my local library does 3D printing and they charge by the gram - about 20 cents per gram.

Software says it's 14g, my scale says 13g. About 1hr print time. Print at .2mm or .3mm layer height.

Good price.

 

[KevinMos3]

On 7/29/2020 at 9:15 AM, amiman99 said:

Can you show us how you do that? Maybe a Youtube link?

 

Thanks for the logo.  Unfortunately, there are a couple of things keeping it from playing nice with what I'd like to do.  I can explain it pretty easily because it's pretty simple to do as long as it's set up correctly.

 

Pretty much any 3D printer can do it.  I know the settings in Cura, but I'm not familiar with other software.

 

- In Tinkercad or whatever you use, you first need to make a solid out of whatever you have for your inlay areas (you've already done this part, except the logo is taller than the depth of the main file... easily corrected for in Cura though).

- You must also line them up perfectly in Tinkercad so that they can be lined up perfectly in Cura.

- Ideally, the height/depth of your inlay should be about 0.4mm.  That gives you 2 layers at 0.2mm layer height and is easy to work with.  You can go more, but if too tall you can have trouble like I did.

- Open both .stl files in Cura and make sure they are positioned correctly, overlaying each other.

- Delete the main .stl so that only the lettering/inlay is left.

- Print as you normally would, but leave the lettering/inlay on the bed.

- Re-open or undelete the main .stl file in Cura and delete the lettering/inlay model.

- Scroll down the Cura settings until you see "Enable Z hop when retracting".  Enable that and set the "Z hop height" to a little more than the height of your lettering/inlay print.  In this example, we wanted the inlay 0.4mm, so we'd set the Z hop height to 0.5 or so.  You may need to enable view of the Z hop height setting in Cura, as it doesn't show up as default.

- Print the main .stl file.  Profit.  Instead of the nozzle moving straight when it goes over an area where it's not extruding, it will lift up (the Z hop height) so it will pass over the previously printed inlay and print around it.

 

Here's where I went wrong with this attempt:

I tried to line up the Jaguar logo with the main model in Cura, but wasn't able to get it quite perfect since it hadn't been aligned in Tinkercad or whatever was used to make the file.

The logo inlay depth on the slot cover was 5 layers if I printed at 0.2mm layer height totalling 1.0mm deep.  So, I vertically shrunk the Jaguar logo to this height to match and set Z hop to 1.1mm to give enough clearance.

However, this inlay may have been a bit too tall and the angled edge of the nozzle might have nudged the perimeter of the previous print just enough to break parts free from their adhesion to the bed.  I was having trouble getting any adhesion of anything last night, which didn't help matters.  It might have gone better if my adhesion was better, but I do think the letters are just a bit too tall and they needed to be lined up perfectly in the design program before trying to line them up in Cura.  These 3 things combined spelled failure for me (not perfectly aligned in design program, poor bed adhesion, inlay possibly too tall).

 

This is obviously not going as intended.  You can see most of the letters are pushed out of position as it continues to fill in the surrounding area.  But, hopefully you can see how it "should" work if set up correctly.

 

I stopped the print, but you can see the general idea below.

Edited July 30, 2020 by KevinMos3

[amiman99]

@KevinMos3 I will try this method

 

I created the models in Tinkercad, but I'm not sure if I can align the models and save their coordinates at the same time. Let me try it.

I'm using Cura also to print.