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chad5200

Flashback 9 paddle hardware modification question

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I have done this "Hardware Mod to Support Standard Paddles on Atari Flashback 9 and 9 Gold" on my Flashback 9:

https://armchairarcade.com/perspectives/2019/10/15/hardware-mod-to-support-standard-paddles-on-atari-flashback-9-and-9-gold/

 

However, upon testing, my Player 3 is not working.  The others are fine.

 

Since this is a major pain due to the extremely small size of the resistors, I'd love to be able to focus on the exact resistor I should be looking at to fix.

 

Can anyone (Bill?) provide details as to which of the four resistors I should focus on?  Would be great to get an updated picture that includes which resistor belongs to which Paddle Number.

 

Thanks!

 

 

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On 10/31/2019 at 9:43 AM, chad5200 said:

Can anyone (Bill?) provide details as to which of the four resistors I should focus on?  Would be great to get an updated picture that includes which resistor belongs to which Paddle Number.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Send me an email to [email protected] and I can send you some info. It would help if you could send a photo of your board in the email as well, if possible.

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For the record... Bill relayed a message for me to redo R105 and R106.  I did this and now all four of my paddles are fully working!

 

Thanks Bill!

 

(Everyone, please note, these are NOT easy resistors to replace.  They are literally the size of a grain of pepper.  Proceed with caution.)

 

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Do you know the value of the four resisters you removed? We know that 510kOhms are spec'ed to replace them, but a (possibly) easier mod would be to add another resistor in parallel; i.e. on top of the existing ones. We know:

1/510kOhms = 1/r + 1/R where r is the existing resistance and R is the one we'd need to double up with it. If we have a little more information, it would make for a simpler mod.

 

DoctorMike

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I don’t think adding a resistor on top would be easier. Remember, these are extremely small surface mount resistors. They are literally the size of a grain of pepper.

You have to use a microscope or a powerful magnifying glass while soldering these.

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On 11/14/2019 at 12:30 AM, chad5200 said:

I don’t think adding a resistor on top would be easier. Remember, these are extremely small surface mount resistors. They are literally the size of a grain of pepper.

You have to use a microscope or a powerful magnifying glass while soldering these.

Agree with all of this, except that removing a smc resistor and replacing it is surely harder than adding one on top. I'm happy to experiment, but needed to know what the resistor in place was; guess I'll just have to crack the thing open and look.

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My resistors arrived from Mouser yesterday.  I ordered 2 different brands just for good measure and put the panasonic in the Gold model and Bourns in the standard 9 model.

 

They are definitely even smaller than I expected.  I have very good eyesight, but they're small enough that I wouldn't attempt to do it without a magnifying glass. 

 

My first round (on the Gold model) went really smooth.  I just used a fine tip soldering iron to remove the original resistors and had no trouble putting on the new ones.  The whole thing only took a few minutes.

 

The second round (on the standard 9) did not go so well.  Although I used the same technique as before, those things just did NOT want to play nice.  It took several attempts and then 2 of the solder pads lifted off, leaving nearly nothing to solder to.  I then spent nearly 30 minutes trying to get the 2 troublesome resistors to stay in position and line up to the nearly microscopic sliver of plating at the edge of were the solder pads used to be.  Eventually I got it to work (all 4 players), but good grief.  I don't know how long that one will last.  A few good temperature changes might flex the board enough to render players 1 and 3 inop, but I hope it will hold.

 

If you want to do this, I recommend either removing them with a hot air station.  I should have done that, but after the first round went so well, I didn't expect any trouble on the second.

 

All that being said, I think there is probably a better resistor value we should use anyway.  These 510KOhm resistors use the entire range of the paddle and seem to even be a little shy of going all the way to the left.  It's not that big of a problem with Warlords or Circus Atari, but Kaboom is definitely harder to play when you have to rotate the knob all the way to the stop in both directions.  Super Breakout is also harder to play this way and Street Racer doesn't go all the way to the left side of the road.  Also, the emulator doesn't know what to do with paddle games it doesn't know.  So, the Kaboom Deluxe hack by Darrel or the Drive homebrew don't work with paddles.

 

IMG_1149_sm.thumb.jpg.0f2ef418a4377f1e5b92c6f33dc34804.jpg

IMG_1148_sm.thumb.jpg.ed77965fa0c6de0dc9ef4a42175f7790.jpg

 

A pic of the one that went well.  They're kinda hard to see in the picture because the Panasonic brand has a beige dot in the middle, making it blend in a bit with the solder in the pic:

IMG_1147_sm.thumb.jpg.ee20a6b1e0dd3c2c91faf331fb47dd79.jpg

 

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On 12/7/2019 at 8:49 AM, KevinMos3 said:

All that being said, I think there is probably a better resistor value we should use anyway.  These 510KOhm resistors use the entire range of the paddle and seem to even be a little shy of going all the way to the left.

 

Would it be better to go with 400KOhm or 600KOhm then? You can order SMDs with pretty much any resistance value from digikey.com

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On 12/18/2019 at 9:09 AM, ft55555 said:

Would it be better to go with 400KOhm or 600KOhm then? You can order SMDs with pretty much any resistance value from digikey.com

Hi.

 

I just did this mod today, using 510k resistors.  It does indeed stop shy on the left edge.  Gah!

 

Anyway, as this is a difficult process (I think I invented several new swears), I would suggest going with 430k or even 390k.

 

After measuring the resistors taken out, which are 5.1k, it appears that the engineers went with a straight scaling for the replacement: 5.1k are designed to work with 10k pots in the paddles, therefore they are suggesting 510k for the standard 1M pots.  This doesn’t quite work, so drop that resistance from 510k — judging by where the ‘left’ (high resistance) position runs out, my estimate is drop to 430k.  [Series is 510k, 470k, 430k, 390k ...  470k may do it, but go for 430k I reckon.]

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16 hours ago, boggis the cat said:

Hi.

 

I just did this mod today, using 510k resistors.  It does indeed stop shy on the left edge.  Gah!

 

Anyway, as this is a difficult process (I think I invented several new swears), I would suggest going with 430k or even 390k.

 

After measuring the resistors taken out, which are 5.1k, it appears that the engineers went with a straight scaling for the replacement: 5.1k are designed to work with 10k pots in the paddles, therefore they are suggesting 510k for the standard 1M pots.  This doesn’t quite work, so drop that resistance from 510k — judging by where the ‘left’ (high resistance) position runs out, my estimate is drop to 430k.  [Series is 510k, 470k, 430k, 390k ...  470k may do it, but go for 430k I reckon.]

Heh. I bought some of these resistors (can't remember what resistance), but after seeing how small they were, I scrapped the idea altogether. 

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