Mehridian Sanders Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 About 4 years ago I spent $120 on materials and built my own aluminium forge. I smelted about 40lbs of Monster cans and Budweiser cans (not my beer of choice but anyway). I was truly sad that there was nothing I could do with them here in California. They won't let you recycle them unless there is a stamp on it that says "Recyclable in CA" I got right up to the point of actually casting sheets of aluminium, when the local PD told me to stop it. If I can dig up the lil' aluminium muffins (guess what I used for an Ingot Mold) do you want them? It might be worth the trip to Kansas. Failing that, I will see how a total layman could replicate those measurements with sheet metal. So bandsaws, missing fingers, and duct tape project coming soon! (I am actually really excited about this project, and want to see it to fruition, and wish I could contribute more) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Dont be too excited just yet... In addition to dimensional data, one would need tools. Since none of us have a breakpress or hydroblock press, that means manual forming jig(s) for hand-forming. After making models and prints, I have to design tooling. My mind is already hard at work thinking about manufacturing processes for these, but tool design is voodoo. It's ghetto as hell, but I am considering how an automotive hydraulic floor jack and some wooden forms (with plastic nylon printed faces) could be employed to become a ghetto makeshift breakpress. More thinking needs to be done though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 As a side note to this, could a PseudoPEB be an extension of the sidecar? Maybe a topic for a new thread, but seems that a lot of the PEB is a extension of the sidecar.. Using the sidecar connection and connector form factor, could make the project easier. I'm rookie though so take this with a grain(or pound) of salt. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 One idea I have been toying with, is a "PEBestal" Basically, a little pedestal that sits underneath the 99/4A, which connects to the sidecar bus on the side with a little wall, and which has a compartment inside under the 99 that has room for a single PEB card, and has various other useful thinks integrated (Speech, 32k, etc). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 SO-- Helo has been busy giving me more data to work with, and since I had today off, I have been busy modeling my little brains out. Not complete-- Many features are still missing! However, it is starting to look a bit like a PEB. The plastic front bit is not quite true-to-life. The back is just flat. (The real thing has all these little material-saving wells and such inside) I needed it for fitting, so I made the front look pretty and all. Where the main frame component makes that "reduction", the resulting flat pattern has a very odd looking profile... That "Swept" cutout area is necessary to produce the "cleanly met seam" that comes to be after forming: You might be wondering what the round hole is there for-- That is bend relief allowance in the corner, and is there to prevent fatigue in the metal during forming, since I lack a super-duper fancy hydraulic forming press. The original part has a much more ... difficult... to manufacture corner there. This one will be more friendly to some random jerk (like me) to form manually. The dimensions are identical otherwise, just not as cosmetically pleasing. I am drawing attention to it because I am not sure exactly how to define that on the print. In the aviation industry, I would just say "Make a 1:1 mylar print, and have them lay the part on top." but that isn't really an option in our little community. It is logically the result of computing the intersection line of if those two bends continued through each other when folded, then mapped to where they would be in the unfolded view. (my software has some nifty features for doing that, so I dont have to do fancy scary trig functions.) If this feature is not cut precisely, the corner will not close cleanly. I am open to suggestions... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 12 minutes ago, wierd_w said: I am open to suggestions... I'd leave a cutout on the right-hand side metal backing behind the face place, in case someone wanted to mount some new tech like an I2C display for a TIPI, a temperature display or and HxC device. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 One idea I have been toying with, is a "PEBestal" Basically, a little pedestal that sits underneath the 99/4A, which connects to the sidecar bus on the side with a little wall, and which has a compartment inside under the 99 that has room for a single PEB card, and has various other useful thinks integrated (Speech, 32k, etc). I think I could show a basic theory mockup by tonight of the PEBestal. I have just the thing in mind Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 21 minutes ago, --- Ω --- said: I'd leave a cutout on the right-hand side metal backing behind the face place, in case someone wanted to mount some new tech like an I2C display for a TIPI, a temperature display or and HxC device. Revisions to the original design (other than for purely fabrication-friendly reasons, as stated) are not the purpose of this exercise, but can be produced quickly and easily once the work is completed. The purpose for this exercise is so that such new devices can be designed quickly and easily, as suitable digital reference information (and paper print versions as well) will be available to guide product design. Putting a knockout on would require modification to the PEB's front plastic plate as well. I would also need dimensions for the desired i2C display, so that an appropriate fitting and mounting arrangement could be implemented. Right now, I am focused on getting this thing modeled as accurately as possible. Producing "RepliPEBs" with fancy new features becomes plausible AFTER reverse-engineering the original. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 1 hour ago, wierd_w said: Right now, I am focused on getting this thing modeled as accurately as possible. Producing "RepliPEBs" with fancy new features becomes plausible AFTER reverse-engineering the original. A completely understandable position on the design aspect. My thought was simply a universal sized cutout behind the faceplate. I figured it would be up to the individual user to make modifications/alterations (if any) to the front panel itself. This would eliminate the need for any future design changes on your part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 So, I won Globeron's PEB auction. (as the only bidder. That's kinda sad. I am tempted to send the man some bills in the mail to cover the international shipping) Last night, I spent a little time contemplating how to section up the front plastic bezel of the PEB so that a 3D printed replica could be produced. I have decided that I can do it in 7 sections, and still have a somewhat pleasing cosmetic result. My printer has an 8" bed, and the width of the PEB front cover is ~7 inches, which theoretically should work out OK. (Again, my ghetto chinese clone of the Prusia A3 is a bit janky.) This is still in the theoretical stage, as I have not printed anything yet, and am still doing the modeling to make this happen, but here's the thought-concept for the "Fingered socket" I intend to use to lock the pieces together. Looks like I need to move the socket over a little bit, because that is too close to the edge. (Only noticed now that I made the section view...) The idea is for some little "finger" tabs with hook tabs on the ends will collide with the angle of the inside of the socket, and get bent over, and lodge behind the hook on the inside of the socket. Thus, the parts will stick together permanently. There will be 2 layers, which overlap, so that the seams in the printed parts are reinforced. The idea is to supplement with a strong slow-set flexible adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted November 30, 2019 Author Share Posted November 30, 2019 I now have 4 of the 7 components of the front bezel modeled with all the little fingered sockets in place. Next are the backing parts, with the fingers. Initial slicing through Cura shows that my printer should be able to print them with a 5mm wide brim, just barely. The longest running part with the slicer settings I provided is ~2 days print time.. So, printing the front bezel looks like an approximately 2 week long ordeal. It will also use an insane amount of material. Regardless, I intend to start doing a print test. By the time that shiny new PEB arrives in the mail, I want to have a prototype RepliPEB bezel ready for test fitting. If it fits, I will release the print models. If not, I will do necessary revisions, test print AGAIN, and repeat until I get it to fit properly. The material I will use is black PETG. It prints about the same as the PLA, but is higher temperature. I don't have enough of my preferred material for something like this (nylon) on hand. We'll see how well it works. I have the weekend off (YAY), so I will continue with the sheet metal parts after I finish the remaining 3 parts of the plastic front. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted December 2, 2019 Share Posted December 2, 2019 BUTTONS!! WE NEED BUTTONS!! ... just a thought really but the caffiene has settled in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 The petg did not want to cooperate. Had to settle with PLA. That said, heres the first set. These are the front side that have female sockets on the back. I still need to do the fingered back panels and glue them all together. When Globerons peb arrives i can verify screw hole placement and fitting. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Looks wonderful.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 How does that stuff hold up to acetone or sandpaper? I figure getting the bumps out and getting it real smooth before applying silver spray paint might be nice. After that, make replica decals with waterslide paper on an inkjet printer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 (edited) PLA resists every solvent known to mankind just about. Its weakness is heat. (It deforms on contact with hot water. No shittin.) It sands well. These were set with a high layer thickness as a prototype stage. Proof products will print at the previously cited "2 days to print per section" duration, and will have a much finer height, and additional top layers. I am wanting to verify my CAD data at this stage, and or-- work out any bugs with the assembly. I am unsure about the PETG. The PETG did not want to adhere to my build plate, even with PVA glue painted on. Most frustrating. Nylon sticks no problems, as does the PLA. For a part that fills the whole build area, good adhesion is not something I can compromise on. My preferred material for something like this (Durable surface that needs to accept threaded screws in the back) is nylon. Nylon resists all solvents, but degrades on exposure to strong acids. Sands like shit. (leaves "shreds" on the surface). For Nylon finish proof parts, I would use something like featherfill, sand that, then paint. Edited December 3, 2019 by wierd_w 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 (edited) I have been giving some thought to the power supply issue. Here's the thoughts so far-- There are "Universal Laptop Cords" (ahem) that supply ~19v at quite a few amps, DC. That would be nearly PERFECT for using DC-DC regulators to derive the voltages needed for the PEB. Take for instance, this rather inexpensive one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/iGo-90W-Universal-Laptop-Charger/23703025 It has a keyed DC plug, which is *supposed* to accept little nibs for the various devices out there. If instead, there was a receptacle for just that plug, it would provide a nice, regulated 19V DC, keyed so you can't bodge it. From there, an internal DC-DC converter setup can derive the needed rails, which could be fabbed on some perfboard. If not that supply, then one similar to it, since laptop chargers tend to all output ~19V. I just need to spec one that is ubiquitous, cheap, and outputs reliable 19V at sufficient wattage. ALTERNATIVELY-- Internal PSU, that uses a 24V LED driver as the base, followed by said DC-DC converters. Such as this badboy. https://www.amazon.com/ABI-Supply-Outdoor-Rainproof-Weatherproof/dp/B01IU8QBCO?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 Sadly, it is only 82% energy efficient, and thus "Illegal" by CA's new standards. Finding a suitable DC supply might be tricky. Not sure how efficient this one is, but it looks potentially useful too. https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-220VAC-Switching-Supply-Converter/dp/B00OLYAGSC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_7 Has fancy voltage output adjustment pot. Edited December 3, 2019 by wierd_w 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted December 3, 2019 Share Posted December 3, 2019 Remember the law only applies to the power supplies built after a certain date. So buy some "Vintage" supplies.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 I have been giving some thought to the power supply issue. Here's the thoughts so far-- There are "Universal Laptop Cords" (ahem) that supply ~19v at quite a few amps, DC. That would be nearly PERFECT for using DC-DC regulators to derive the voltages needed for the PEB. Take for instance, this rather inexpensive one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/iGo-90W-Universal-Laptop-Charger/23703025 It has a keyed DC plug, which is *supposed* to accept little nibs for the various devices out there. If instead, there was a receptacle for just that plug, it would provide a nice, regulated 19V DC, keyed so you can't bodge it. From there, an internal DC-DC converter setup can derive the needed rails, which could be fabbed on some perfboard. If not that supply, then one similar to it, since laptop chargers tend to all output ~19V. I just need to spec one that is ubiquitous, cheap, and outputs reliable 19V at sufficient wattage. ALTERNATIVELY-- Internal PSU, that uses a 24V LED driver as the base, followed by said DC-DC converters. Such as this badboy. https://www.amazon.com/ABI-Supply-Outdoor-Rainproof-Weatherproof/dp/B01IU8QBCO?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 Sadly, it is only 82% energy efficient, and thus "Illegal" by CA's new standards. Finding a suitable DC supply might be tricky. [emoji20] Not sure how efficient this one is, but it looks potentially useful too. https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-220VAC-Switching-Supply-Converter/dp/B00OLYAGSC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_7 Has fancy voltage output adjustment pot. Would an ATX1 power supply do? If so I can send you one or more. I adapted my first TI power lines into a Molex socket (not the standard pinout) for ease of use.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted December 8, 2019 Author Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) Not enough benefit, extra complexity in the system, more to fail. The LED driver is slimmer, probably more efficient. Leaves more room in the bay for the necessary voltage regulation circuitry to provide the oddball voltages the PEB uses. Each PEB card is specc'd to have its own voltage regulators, and thus need GREATER than +12v, +5V, and pals. IIRC, it's +8V +16V and -16V supplied by the PEB. One thing I have been considering is implementing "Automotive type" bladed fuses for the voltage rails to each slot. That way if a card creeps out of the socket and shorts, or some other mishap happens, it will burn that fuse on that rail, to that slot-- restricting the damage. Edited December 8, 2019 by wierd_w 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 Not enough benefit, extra complexity in the system, more to fail. The LED driver is slimmer, probably more efficient. Leaves more room in the bay for the necessary voltage regulation circuitry to provide the oddball voltages the PEB uses. Each PEB card is specc'd to have its own voltage regulators, and thus need GREATER than +12v, +5V, and pals. IIRC, it's +8V +16V and -16V supplied by the PEB.All right, well if you run into a missing component lemme know. I just found a few more. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omega-TI Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Is this project still going or has it concluded? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mehridian Sanders Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Is this project still going or has it concluded?Well ... I may have a PEB coming soon. I may actually be able to contribute to this!!Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierd_w Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 Still going; Now that I have a PEB to measure, I can do it myself Admittedly though, I just get real sad every time I see that things all bent like that. I really need to get/make some kit to straighten it. I think I will use Aluminum instead of steel for any replications; Easier to bend by hand. That steel is unyielding with anything but a hydraulic press. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 30 minutes ago, wierd_w said: I think I will use Aluminum instead of steel for any replications; Easier to bend by hand. That steel is unyielding with anything but a hydraulic press. Also much lighter. Less of a workout moving an aluminum one around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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