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Making myself my own Christmas present


Mehridian Sanders

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As I recall, the Hunt the Wumpus cartridge contains several regionalisations inside it.  This was mentioned on a youtube video I saw for xload, since the program only initiates the first entry in a multi-program cartridge image. (which in the case of hunt the wumpus, is the german localization.)

 

Sorry to year about your keyboard though.

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Well I bought the second 99/4a in case something happened to the first. Which, it seems it did. If anyone is any good at fixing mechanical keyboards, I would be most appreciative. I also have this coming.. just in case. I found it when looking for oddities.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/264567937931

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18 hours ago, Mehridian Sanders said:

And I think I messed up my keyboard by adding the joystick alpha lock fix

. U . I . O . P .
Enter
Shift

Dont work now.... drat.

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keyboards are very simple things.. you should be able to troubleshoot with a meter..  if you want to send it to me lmk always need parts

 

Greg

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keyboards are very simple things.. you should be able to troubleshoot with a meter..  if you want to send it to me lmk always need parts
 
Greg
Well after removing the joystick fix lead U I O P started working again. Enter, R- Shift, and Spacebar are still not working. The Stackpole feels nice just that the keys fall out if the keyboard is inverted. Yeah I think I will send you the Futaba. For parts only, I think one of the pads came off.

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ok the pads were coming away from the Alpha Lock trace and the pin 6 trace in general. Running a trace connection from Pin 6 to AL, should fix that issue. gonna be rerunning a lot of traces rom the looks of it ... also gonna redo the connection from the keyboard to the wires for a nice neat header.

 

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so wait a second ... since I now have headers on this ... is it possible to split the keyboards function .. add a 10 key pad through USB and use the TI keyboard while in the keyboard with another PC? like make it dual purposed?  Using a teensy 2.0 should be able to use the keyboard while the TI is off for the PC? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

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On 12/26/2019 at 3:12 PM, mizapf said:

Check this. The columns are supplied with GND level one after another, and the INT lines are sensed by the keyboard scan. So if OIUYP fail, it is likely that pin 1 of the keyboard connector is bad.

 

 

ok checked my points from pin 1 to enter and U. I. O. P. all are showing a signal of about 1 ohm

so the signal is still there

this is of course after the header addition. I am using the end point of the header to check the traces to make sure signal gets all the way through.

On 12/26/2019 at 12:02 PM, arcadeshopper said:

 

keyboards are very simple things.. you should be able to troubleshoot with a meter..  if you want to send it to me lmk always need parts

 

Greg

 

 

Thanks Greg, you were right they are very simple creatures. I guess I should have a bit more faith in my abilities. Either that or just not go bananasandwich when something new rears its head

 

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While you're trying to repair it, don't forget the leaf switches exposed by popping a keycap off. If the traces, soldering and wiring look good but it's still a bit flaky, pop the offending caps off and spray a small shot of contact cleaner in there then work it a bit. My last balky keyboard had failed solder on a few switches, discovered when the cleaner didn't help.

-Ed

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Thanks, I will remember this. Unfortunately, I can't use it. The keycaps (which look very Cherry MX like) only show the pole :( i'd have to de-solder the switch. I tested the keyboard out though. And it will work but my headers come right into contact with the connector. So I get to redo that lol.02233291a8fca7d5a01cc3d7e88ca2b3.jpg

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That style is more tedious. See those two tabs either side of the post? Push them inwards and the white plastic part then lifts off. Don't recall the innards, so expect maybe a spring or other fly-away parts. Or not! :) I do recall needing three hands or six fingers to get it out! Oh, another possible gotcha. The switch terminals may have to be desoldered and cleared since that's part of the switch! It's been awhile since I've had to do that, so my memory of it is a bit cloudy with a chance of a clearing trend.

 

What I've done for an easy fix, having lots of spares laying around, was to swap in a better snap-in switch from a donor board. In a pinch, you could swap a heavily used switch with another on the same keyboard that's used less often.

-Ed

Edited by Ed in SoDak
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