Simple Console Modifications

[+dhe]

What's your favorite simple console modification?

 

The ones that come immediately to my head are:

1) drill holes in the cartridge slot to allow more air to circulate over the power supply.

2) a diode so the alpha lock doesn't hose joysticks.

3) there was a mod, changing a resistor to improve video, I later read that was bogus.

4) I saw a mod done by Gary Bowser, it was a diode on the console where none existed, he said it helped eliminate shorts.

5) if still there, remove the felt over the cartridge port, or maybe change the felt.

6) replacing the cartridge port with gold connectors, if you can find them...

 

I'd like to put together a PDF that would be like a fun week of one hour projects to enhance your 4a console.

[Tornadoboy]

Here's a bunch of really cool mods:

 

http://www.mainbyte.com/ti99/upgrades.asp

[Omega-TI]

12 minutes ago, Tornadoboy said:

Here's a bunch of really cool mods:

 

http://www.mainbyte.com/ti99/upgrades.asp

Yes, this site has inspired many people over the years.  It's got some really cool projects, like the one I converted to a PDF from his website (shown below).

I even made a blog entry due to his sites influence...

 

PEB Disassembly & Fan Project.pdf

[+dhe]

One more I thought of:

 7 - put an inline rocker switch from ac to the transformer,

        that will keep the transformer from being powered, when the console is off.

        also, replacing an inline switch on the transformer is much easier then replacing a console power switch.

 

I was thinking about 4, Gary had diodes tacked on to the back of the 2 or 4 prong power cord coming in to the back of the console.

   Any EE types can give me the scoop on what parts to use, where to put them and the bennies?

 

Does anyone know if you can still get gold plated replacements for the cartridge port? I think last time I placed an order, I ended up getting units that had the correct pins, but rather than the backs sitting against the cartridge board, you had to solder pins in the correct spacing....

 

Thanks,

Dan

 

[Ed in SoDak]

1) I place a 2.5-inch 12v computer fan on top of the vent slots behind the cartridge port. Not noisy at all when I power it from an old 3v DC wallwart and the console runs much cooler with zero lockups after hours of running. Before that, I had plenty of lockups. That happened often enough I had dual TI-PEB setups running the same program that could take over in short order.

 

Why, you ask? I was using my TI to time color darkroom processing.  Unknown amounts of time lost while rebooting to get back to timing meant failed prints. After I added a console cooling fan, I was able to "retire" the second system from work duties and could instead play a game or write programs on it while the "work TI" minded the clock. The prints were in daylight light-tight drums rotating on a motor, so other than draining and refilling between steps, I often had nothing to do for 10 or more minutes. It was a great home business till everything photographic went digital.

-Ed

[+dhe]

I use a back light keyboard on my PC. Maybe I could either repaint the top of the keys with glow in the dark, or lay some led strips down an attach to power?

[+FALCOR4]

A bit more involved perhaps than what you're looking for but, replacing the linear regulators in the older console power boards with direct replacement switching regulators.  Cuts down a lot on heat.  Of course, you'd probably want to replace the caps as well.

[+dhe]

Do you have plans for that mod sounds like one I would like to do.

[Mehridian Sanders]

On my first TI, I had to remove the power board completely, as I didn't have the original power supply. I used an old ATX 1 power supply and made 2 custom Molex form factor power connections to connect it.

That left a lot more room available inside. I did have 2 led strips breathe/glow blue on the bottom grill and the upper grill from the inside.

I almost had a Knightrider-esque boot cycle planned. Would have a 11-LED running fader go back and forth, and it would play the KITT woosh-woosh once when powered on/g3 reset.
http://

Dumped it when I got the second 99/4a, 'cause it came with the power supply. More projects came and it fell by the wayside. If I didn't toss the board, I'll see if I can get it working.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Mehridian Sanders]

1) I place a 2.5-inch 12v computer fan on top of the vent slots behind the cartridge port. Not noisy at all when I power it from an old 3v DC wallwart and the console runs much cooler with zero lockups after hours of running. Before that, I had plenty of lockups. That happened often enough I had dual TI-PEB setups running the same program that could take over in short order.

 

Why, you ask? I was using my TI to time color darkroom processing.  Unknown amounts of time lost while rebooting to get back to timing meant failed prints. After I added a console cooling fan, I was able to "retire" the second system from work duties and could instead play a game or write programs on it while the "work TI" minded the clock. The prints were in daylight light-tight drums rotating on a motor, so other than draining and refilling between steps, I often had nothing to do for 10 or more minutes. It was a great home business till everything photographic went digital.

-Ed

I am big on harvesting from current tech and repurposing for old.

 

An easy way to do this would be to take a laptop cooling station, open it up, take the fans and whatever cheap circuit is in there. Then mount it inside the TI. Make a hole for the switch and/or usb(micro sometimes). I can usually find a station at Goodwill or some 2nd hand store for $2-$5.

 

I use these a lot for my sons projects in his costumes. Blue/Red LED, propylene glycol, shielded heating agent, couple of fans. BAM! Blue/Red exhaust from blaster or backpack.

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

[Mehridian Sanders]

Fast and dirty mockup

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[+FALCOR4]

11 hours ago, dhe said:

Do you have plans for that mod sounds like one I would like to do.

Here's what I ordered from Digikey, also in a 5V version.  I'm sure they are available from other sources as well:

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/murata-power-solutions-inc/OKI-78SR-12-1.0-W36-C/811-3293-ND/6817698

 

[Mehridian Sanders]

and I see what you mean about the heat . mines only been on an hour or so ....  and the case is very warm over the power supply... gonna install a couple of fans. Thanks for that!

[gpaJeb]

I remember back that there was a mod for the

TI keyboard that added a FCTN key on the left

by the A key. I made that to mine. Can't remember

How I did it.

[Mehridian Sanders]

Following up on the internal fan. I would recommend doing a project like this.

 

https://www.electroschematics.com/temperature-controlled-fan/

 

I might tweak some values to make it work with a 5volt 1amp fan. h

[Omega-TI]

Ever put one of << THESE >> in your P-Box?  They are cheap as hell and simply plug in.

 

 

 

[Mehridian Sanders]

Here is something I ran across today taking apart an old wireless mouse card. 

 

https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Cypress PDFs/CY7C63722,23,43.pdf

 

this may work for PS/2 and USB keyboard/mouse support. 

granted it is obsolete now but ... I may fool around with it see what shakes loose.

 

[globeron]

On 1/2/2020 at 12:26 AM, Mehridian Sanders said:

On my first TI, I had to remove the power board completely, as I didn't have the original power supply. I used an old ATX 1 power supply and made 2 custom Molex form factor power connections to connect it.

That left a lot more room available inside. I did have 2 led strips breathe/glow blue on the bottom grill and the upper grill from the inside.

I almost had a Knightrider-esque boot cycle planned. Would have a 11-LED running fader go back and forth, and it would play the KITT woosh-woosh once when powered on/g3 reset.
http://

 

Dumped it when I got the second 99/4a, 'cause it came with the power supply. More projects came and it fell by the wayside. If I didn't toss the board, I'll see if I can get it working.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

 

 

 

 

 

(it is not powered from the inside, used the TiPi USB interface (not in the picture) to power up the LED strip

 

 

[Mehridian Sanders]

 
(it is not powered from the inside, used the TiPi USB interface (not in the picture) to power up the LED strip

Yeah... that's pretty.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[apersson850]

The best internal modification I've done to my console is adding 64 K 16-bit wide RAM. But you can't honestly call that a simple modification.

[+FALCOR4]

On 1/10/2020 at 8:14 AM, apersson850 said:

The best internal modification I've done to my console is adding 64 K 16-bit wide RAM. But you can't honestly call that a simple modification.

I've seen a couple different ways to do that, which one did you do?  Any pics?

[dgrissom]

On 12/31/2019 at 9:48 AM, dhe said:

What's your favorite simple console modification?

 

The ones that come immediately to my head are:

1) drill holes in the cartridge slot to allow more air to circulate over the power supply.

2) a diode so the alpha lock doesn't hose joysticks.

3) there was a mod, changing a resistor to improve video, I later read that was bogus.

4) I saw a mod done by Gary Bowser, it was a diode on the console where none existed, he said it helped eliminate shorts.

5) if still there, remove the felt over the cartridge port, or maybe change the felt.

6) replacing the cartridge port with gold connectors, if you can find them...

 

I'd like to put together a PDF that would be like a fun week of one hour projects to enhance your 4a console.

OK, my biggest "pet peeve" with the black and chrome console is its power switch. It looks good, however, it binds when you turn the machine off and on.  In my case, using it loosens the aluminum trim over time when your other fingers use the edge of the console for leverage.  IMO, the beige console's switch is much better /more ergonomic.  

 

This may have been addressed in previous posts and information over the years? 

 

This is my quick solution!   (I plan on dressing it up with a smaller bolt and nice aluminum sleeve in the future.)