Atari computer case damage and repair recommendations

[atariry]

Just starting this thread to try to collect information on how best to repair damage to the computers case. I used google to search this site to see if a thread already existed, but nothing obvious appeared. Please advise if such a thread already exists. I am aware of the "tips/tricks" pinned thread, not sure if that should be used. Didn't want to steal a different thread where this started to be discussed.

 

Post pictures of your damaged Atari, or repaired Atari, with details of which products you might have used.

 

regards...

--atariry

[atariry]

This Atari 800 cost £89 (found on Ebay UK) in Sep 2018. Was very poorly packaged, with only a single layer of bubble wrap. Appears to have been dropped on the corner by the courier.

 

I used a solvent type glue (in the UK called UHU) often used to build plastic aeroplane models (Airfix - anyone?). NOTE: it melts the plastic. So I used tape on the outside to hold the broken off parts in place and used the glue on the inside of the case only. I then tried to find some fine filler, however the model shop didn't have anything suitable and what they sold me was way too fine. I used the filler to try to fill the (micro) cracks. I then used model paint to try to further cover the filler. The model shop didn't have the right colour of paint and sold me various colours to mix. You can see I made a really bad job of it ?. I have to admit that I put it to one side and it still needs to be finished off. I really need to figure out how to mix the paint to get a good colour match.

 

[Gunstar]

It looks pretty good to me, if unfinished. The only thing I think you did wrong with the filler on the outside (paint aside, you have to find paint that matches, and if not perfect, then the entire case needs to be repainted with it) is not matching the texture. I'm unfamiliar with the filler you used, so I don't know what consistency it starts with and how fast it dries, etc.

 

My favorite stuff to use for projects like this, is J.B. Weld. You can apply the stuff, wait a time (I'd have to look at the tube(s) again as to how fast it dries, and there are quick dry versions and slow dry versions) and when it's firmed up, yet still pliable, I would have used the bottom part of the case and pressed against the still pliable J.B. Weld, to imprint the proper texture on the filler. Sort of like those old vinyl chair patch kits that came with vinyl texture pads that you would press on the repair. I use J.B. Weld to both "patch" the pieces together on the inside (no glue on the edges at all, it keeps the cracks visible because it keeps the pieces from totally meshing together since glue is in-between). The taping bit was the right direction though and if you can find some matching paint, that should still look pretty good once the entire case is painted. Unless you managed to get a perfect match, I never have found a perfect match for any paints I use, just really close and then paint the entire case.

 

On my 1200XL PBI mod, I cut the PBI part off of a 600XL I use for salvage, and below are pictures of what I did. I used some copper trace-repair that has adhesive on the back to stick to circuit boards, matched up the piece to the area I cut out of the back of the 1200XL case (all done with precise measurements using a caliper) and applied the trace repair to both the outside and inside of the case to hold the pieces together while I applied J.B. Weld to the inner side of the case. The "tape" on the outside is later removed, the "tape" on the inside stays, with J.B. Weld applied liberally over top. After it dried, I removed the "tape" from the outside (tape on the inside gives added strength-also why I went with copper trace repair as the copper is stronger than real tape) a touch more J.B. Weld on the outside for "filler," then took a scrap of the plastic case I cut off the 1200XL and used it to imprint the texture on the outside of the 1200XL while it was still pliable, then after a full day to cure (I prefer using the slow dry J.B. Weld because it gives you more time to correct errors) I repainted the entire case.

 

I had an 800XL that I re-painted at the same time, as it was badly yellowed and I don't do retro-bright because eventually it yellows again anyway, so it was painted at the same time. Paint to very closely match the original (new) color of XL's I use it Rust-Oleum's types as pictured below (I use a matte clear-coat after the satin paints). I would have used this same process to fix your 800 case, though a different color paint obviously. I didn't use the Dark Walnut on the XL computers, they don't discolor and I didn't have brown parts of the case that were broken, but this is the best match for XL brown, which I did use to paint my new Atari workstation are shown in this thread: 

Sorry it's only thumb-nail pictures, I posted these on Atari Sector originally, and I can't find the originals, if I do, I'll post them, but in the original thread, the thumb-nails there, for some reason, no longer expand to full-size, so all I could do was copy and paste the thumb-nail images. here is a link, but you have to join the forum and the thumb-nails don't expand anyway, anymore, so it's only good for more detailed explanation, but not larger images. http://atari.boards.net/thread/947/phoenix-rising-1200xl-pbi-mod?page=3

 

The paints are Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra cover paint & primer, Satin. White is Heirloom White, brown is Dark Walnut. Clear coat was matte.

Edited January 17, 2020 by Gunstar

[Gunstar]

All repairs, and modifications and upgrades I do, I post, with pictures and step-by-step explanations, and sometimes videos, on Atari Sector. I am a moderator there, so they get everything I do there first, most times only there. I have a BUNCH of thread/blogs there. Some I may move to my profile here, if not all, eventually, but it's a big job that I haven't had time to transfer yet.

Edited January 17, 2020 by Gunstar

[mimo]

You could look at the baking soda and superglue method. I haven't tried it yet but it looks to add strength to damage repairs. 

[adam1977]

+1 on JB Weld, it's brilliant 

[Mclaneinc]

Great new thread...

[Gunstar]

4 hours ago, mimo said:

You could look at the baking soda and superglue method. I haven't tried it yet but it looks to add strength to damage repairs. 

I may look into it, but super glue dries spectacularly quickly, so I don't see how one would have time to mix, if that's how it's done. But I see no reason to try something like that when I have a tried and true method with J.B Weld. Just like in the video @Mclaneinc posted in the other 800 thread, where the guy heated up metal and melted plastic for similar results; to me it's asking for trouble unless you are very careful, and why should I when I can do what he did, but hold the metal with J.B Weld which gives time to fix mistakes? With melting the plastic, you have one chance, screw it up and it's game-over or a hell of a lot more repair work. And I know J.B Weld adds incredible strength, stronger than the original plastic. I highly doubt super glue and baking soda can be better than J.B Weld for jobs like this. There may be certain circumstances where it's better, so I'll look into it and see what it has to offer over my method, if anything. I'm more interested in how someone came up with the idea or found out baking soda and super glue work well together! Outside of a professional chemist, who knows chemical bonds, it seems like a shot in the dark that happened to work to me.

 

On a side note, @Mclaneinc , maybe you could have @Albert move that post with video over here to this thread? And maybe the one or two direct replies to your post too...

Edited January 17, 2020 by Gunstar

[Mclaneinc]

An extreme 800XL from Retro recipes and a mate of his...

 

 

Posted again as its a shared video and is no drain on AA.

 

Super glue depending on the quality won't always work on certain plastics, not sure why, maybe a coating or just the quality of the glue. Also super glue is extremely brittle, any real twisting or pushing a piece and it can just snap off easily. I must have a look for a better version of the glue rather than the poundshop versions I normally pick up. Tried repairing and an old Interceptor and UFO from the old TV show U.F.O. and the pieces just would not take, however it did fix my 800 space bar...(must sand it down more and polish it...)

 

EDIT: Seems Krazy Glue - Maximum Bond is the best out there for plastics and I just  ordered it for 5.35 from the states with free postage...Will let you know how well it works..

Edited January 17, 2020 by Mclaneinc
adding and spelling (as always)

[Gunstar]

Yes, when it comes to super glues, Krazy Glue is the best, or Loctite brand, which has a better dispenser bottle that doesn't get all clogged up and no screw-on lid. . Krazy glue uses a tack-like cap which helps, but still not as good as Loctite dispensers. I still use it for very small areas that J.B. Weld is too cumbersome to use.

 

I was able to get the original pictures from Atari Sector, so everyone can see full-size and zoom in. I'm not sure why it wasn't working yesterday, but I just couldn't see what could possibly have happened, since the images are stored off-site from Atari Sector (which has limited capacity), so I tried again and this time they loaded up! I tried to put them in order, but apparently this site swaps them around any damn way it pleases, unless you attach them one at a time! I'm not going to bother...

Edited January 17, 2020 by Gunstar

[andymanone]

Also interesting is the restoration of a "Bell and Howell" (Apple II +) case

(in which a large hole had previously been cut).

 

The 8-Bit Guy - Bell and Howell (Apple II+) Restoration

 

( For the impatient: The main part starts at 4:19  ?  -> Jump in.... )

 

Gtx.,

andY