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Mega STE/TT LED replacements!

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11 hours ago, tjlazer said:

So wait you cut off the LEDs on the Ultra Satan?  Why not just leave them on?  It's not visible when the cover is installed.

 

Right, they are not when the cover is closed, but as Remo said, you have to remove the 2 bottom LEDs to install a jumper

block at J8 so that you can plug in Leech's awesome nuclear powered LED replacements. I'm assuming that no signal goes

to J8 otherwise.

 

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I've been following this thread with interest as my mste power and hdd led rusted off. The metal bracket is fine though. I've been looking for the required spec of the replacement LED and the only thing that seems consistent is that it is 3mm. Colour and voltage all seem a little confused: is the hdd meant to be yellow or green and is the led driven by 3v, or doesn't it matter?

 

I might put an ultrasatan internally, and was considering using a bi-colour led to get activity for both slots... not figured out what circuit is needed on the US to not drive both... but fitting a dual-colour / 2-wire led now (e.g. this one) might give me yellow for now but option of using the other colour later.

 

Anyone else tried this?

 

Steve.

 

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On 5/20/2020 at 12:22 PM, Beeka said:

I've been following this thread with interest as my mste power and hdd led rusted off. The metal bracket is fine though. I've been looking for the required spec of the replacement LED and the only thing that seems consistent is that it is 3mm. Colour and voltage all seem a little confused: is the hdd meant to be yellow or green and is the led driven by 3v, or doesn't it matter?

 

I might put an ultrasatan internally, and was considering using a bi-colour led to get activity for both slots... not figured out what circuit is needed on the US to not drive both... but fitting a dual-colour / 2-wire led now (e.g. this one) might give me yellow for now but option of using the other colour later.

 

Anyone else tried this?

 

Steve.

 

From what I can tell, the original LED is more like 2mm, as it is smaller than the 3mm ones I have been making.  Also I think I could have included a resistor to lower the brightness as well. 

Not sure how you would fit a dual color LED though, would be interesting to see that!

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On a remotely related note, I recently got a Checkmate 1500 case for my Amiga A500+ with Vampire board.

The 44 pin IDE to CF adapter didn't have any easy way to hook up the LED for the hard drive to the front of the case. 

So I grabbed a 44/40 pin adapter that I had previously ordered but hadn't used yet.  Desoldered the activity LED, soldered in a pin header.  Made a cable with double ended dupont connectors to hook it all up, and it worked flawlessly.

So still putting all this equipment to use!

Next project is the 800 and incognito LED/ATR switch.  :)

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All three LED’s in my MSTE are replaced and they’re equally bright AF 😂
 

Don’t mind them bright and that’s how they’re staying. Officially done with this project. 

A69C7AD7-25B3-46E6-B02A-AAB0F52FBCF9.jpeg

E983A0DE-CF3D-44B8-B142-BE84B6376771.jpeg

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37 minutes ago, swatcop said:

All three LED’s in my MSTE are replaced and they’re equally bright AF 😂
 

Don’t mind them bright and that’s how they’re staying. Officially done with this project. 

A69C7AD7-25B3-46E6-B02A-AAB0F52FBCF9.jpeg

E983A0DE-CF3D-44B8-B142-BE84B6376771.jpeg

Very nice!  I still don't have any Goteks with the knob on them.

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24 minutes ago, leech said:

Very nice!  I still don't have any Goteks with the knob on them.

None for mine either.  If a smaller solution was available I'd think about it, I have no desire for something that looks in scale like turning a 1960s Soviet nuclear reactor control knob.  :D

 

 

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2 minutes ago, remowilliams said:

None for mine either.  If a smaller solution was available I'd think about it, I have no desire for something that looks in scale like turning a 1960s Soviet nuclear reactor control knob.  :D

 

 

I hear ya, but after using one I’ve added them to all of my Gotek drives. The difference in use is night & day compared to those stupid little buttons. There are less obtrusive knobs available and you can even 3d print smaller versions. 
 

There is also a mod for a BlackBerry roller selector that’s very low profile, but I’ve not yet tried one. 

4B4027DE-D0AC-4B00-B82F-4875C995D367.jpeg

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9 hours ago, swatcop said:

I hear ya, but after using one I’ve added them to all of my Gotek drives. The difference in use is night & day compared to those stupid little buttons. There are less obtrusive knobs available and you can even 3d print smaller versions. 
 

There is also a mod for a BlackBerry roller selector that’s very low profile, but I’ve not yet tried one. 

4B4027DE-D0AC-4B00-B82F-4875C995D367.jpeg

I guess the last question is... to do the 'speaker' mod or not?  On the one hand (especially for the Amiga with its constant click) it is nice to have a silent floppy drive.  But on the other hand it is nice to get an audible as well as visual indication that something is still loading.

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10 hours ago, leech said:

I guess the last question is... to do the 'speaker' mod or not?  On the one hand (especially for the Amiga with its constant click) it is nice to have a silent floppy drive.  But on the other hand it is nice to get an audible as well as visual indication that something is still loading.

I added the piezo to the one in my MegaSTE since I was in there already.  It's neat having the audio feedback and you can control it via the settings menu.

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13 minutes ago, remowilliams said:

I added the piezo to the one in my MegaSTE since I was in there already.  It's neat having the audio feedback and you can control it via the settings menu.

Yeah, I was thinking of adding it into all of mine.  I would rather the option there, and using NoClick on the Amiga than not have the sound feedback.  It is the one thing that weirded me out about the move from the HxC, which sound great.

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I have added piezo speakers to most of mine now.  Definitely need to install "no-click" software on the Amiga...  Its handy as stated earlier to hear that the computer hasn't crashed and is still doing something.  Initially felt it was a bit gimmicky, but ended up liking them installed a lot more than I thought I would.

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58 minutes ago, videofx said:

any still available ? My LED and wires are all rusted and useless 

Yeah, I have a ton left.  Or can always print / make more.  I need to head to the post office sometime soonish anyhow so I can ship my 800 off to FJC so he can make my modding not suck.  😛

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37 minutes ago, videofx said:

Great How much and since all my wires and LED is gone how do I install?

 

Thanks!

Are you looking at Hard drive light plus power light?  The power LED holder is basically a replica of the original one.  I just package it with the grommet and LED+wire+dupont connector, so you literally just hook it up to the old leads (paying attention to pin one being the red wire) and then screw the plastic mount up and push the LED through the grommit hole.

 

The HDD one is basically the same, just clean off the rust and maybe file / cut it down a bit and slide the plastic bit over.

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On 5/21/2020 at 11:54 AM, swatcop said:

All three LED’s in my MSTE are replaced and they’re equally bright AF 😂
 

Don’t mind them bright and that’s how they’re staying. Officially done with this project. 

A69C7AD7-25B3-46E6-B02A-AAB0F52FBCF9.jpeg

E983A0DE-CF3D-44B8-B142-BE84B6376771.jpeg

 

This holder is GREAT!

Where can I purchase one for my MSTE??

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Here is a photo of my missing LED, can you please tell me what I need to fix it? How much with shipping in USA? How can I clean the rust and where do I connect the wires?

 

Thanks!

 

 

IMG_4658.jpg

Edited by videofx

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2 hours ago, videofx said:

Here is a photo of my missing LED, can you please tell me what I need to fix it? How much with shipping in USA? How can I clean the rust and where do I connect the wires?

 

Thanks!

 

 

IMG_4658.jpg

Shipping of course depends on weight, but last one was like 4 dollars.  Where you connect them depends on your hard drive model.  You'd have to poke around the manual and look at the pin headers.  Happen to know what hard drive model you have?

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4 hours ago, KLund1 said:

This holder is GREAT!

Where can I purchase one for my MSTE??

Link to the .STL that you can print yourself if you have a 3D printer. 

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19 minutes ago, leech said:

Shipping of course depends on weight, but last one was like 4 dollars.  Where you connect them depends on your hard drive model.  You'd have to poke around the manual and look at the pin headers.  Happen to know what hard drive model you have?

Sure I know :)   

 

Quantum Fireball 1280S TM12S012 REV 04-D 50 PIN SCSI

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7 minutes ago, videofx said:

Sure I know :)   

 

Quantum Fireball 1280S TM12S012 REV 04-D 50 PIN SCSI

https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/hard-drives-hdd/quantum/FIREBALL-1280S-1281MB-3-5-SL-SCSI2-3-SE.html

 LED Connector (J2)
 ------------------
 The LED connector my be used to connect an external LED for the pur-
 pose of monitoring drive activity. A 220-ohm resistor is connected in
 series from the +LED pin to +5 volts. The -LED pin is connected to a
 switching transistor on the drive that turns on and lights the LED
 when the disk is performing a read or write operation. When no read
 or write operation is taking place, the transistor turns off and the
 LED is extinguished.

  +---------------------+--------------------------------+
  |     J2  Pins        | Mating Connectir Type and Part |
  |Pin Number| Function | Number (or equivalent)         |
  +----------+----------+--------------------------------+
  |    1     |   -LED   |    Two-position housing:       |
  +----------+----------+    Molex P/N 51021-0200        |
  |    2     |   +LED   |    Loose-piece contacts:       |
  |          |          |    Molex P/N 50058-8100        |
  +----------+----------+--------------------------------+

 

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On 5/30/2020 at 7:17 PM, leech said:

Shipping of course depends on weight, but last one was like 4 dollars. Where you connect them depends on your hard drive model. You'd have to poke around the manual and look at the pin headers. Happen to know what hard drive model you have?

Get some Naval Jelly or other rust remover and clean that up first.

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