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Bobby Nelson

New to Colecovision, what mods would you say are necessary?

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Hi all!

 

Growing up I don't know if I even encountered anyone with a Colecovision and as an adult, though I have known of its existence, I've never given it much thought.

 

 Well all of that changed a few months ago when I won a local auction for a Colecovision console. It looked a little dirty and though it came with the original power brick I haven't even attempted to fire it up because I've read up on how delicate these can be and I decided that before I put power on it I want to at least go through it and replace the electrolytic capacitors and make sure the power switch is in good repair.

 

  Having said that, since I'll be inside of the console what are the other mods that the Coleco-collective would say are the must-dos? I've already purchased the "Col-USB" power supply to power it. I've considered doing the no-delay bios mod. I've considered the 5v ram mod but am wondering if the Super game module (or the forthcoming SGM2) need the 12 volt supply?

 

  Also what about the controllers? I've heard of "cord straightening" and replacing the little disk with a ball tip etc.

 

  So there you have it. What are the mods/repairs/etc that I should definitely do before I fire this thing up to ensure it's going to work like a charm?

 

 Thanks in advance for your collective-coleco wisdom!

 

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OH I should add I already plan on doing the composite video mod, and even though you've all seen one before I figured I'd add a pic of my Colecovision. I believe the sticker on the bottom says it was made in Canada. (Is that normal?)

2FA65717-2A86-4238-AF1E-B469A5805117.jpeg

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Welcome!  I've seen you post a few different places and it looks like you're off to a great start!  I recapped mine and did the composite mod, but didn't do the 5v memory mod.  Not sure about SGM or SGM2 requirements!  As for controllers, I have a pair of controllers that doubledown built which have straight cords (replaced with straight...not straightened) and ball tops.  In my opinion, having a properly cleaned and adjusted controller with the ball top makes a HUGE difference in feel.  The biggest issue I always had growing up was that the side buttons didn't seem very responsive at all.  My Coleco playing experience was at my Uncle's house, who took meticulous care of his system, so i'm fairly certain it felt this way out of the box.  That shows me that it's probably the lubrication of the buttons that made the biggest difference.  

 

Hope this helps a little!

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if you have OSSC then get the RGB mod from

https://mobiusstriptechnologies.com

 

and a arcade controller

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if you have OSSC then get the RGB mod from
https://mobiusstriptechnologies.com
 
and a arcade controller
I don't think Mobius has them in stock anymore, unfortunately. If you have the composit mod, you can use the retrotink 2x along with the ossc, though. Looks pretty good in my setup.

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12 hours ago, mingus said:
21 hours ago, grips03 said:
if you have OSSC then get the RGB mod from
https://mobiusstriptechnologies.com
 
and a arcade controller

I don't think Mobius has them in stock anymore, unfortunately. If you have the composit mod, you can use the retrotink 2x along with the ossc, though. Looks pretty good in my setup.

He's working on a new revision to the boards. So I doubt he will restock the old ones any time soon.

 

But he's been doing that for quite a while now. And the last time I even saw him mention the revision was back in Oct. 

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How could he do better than Citrus3000psi NTSC or PAL boards ?

The integration is perfect, and the implementation simple, clean and based on the Ti reference design.

For the record all is there:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/WhLjVooT

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ogorMaoU

with the bonus:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/0hrYbjDu

 

I'm waiting an original SCART model and will try to find time to look how they did the RGB conversion and perhaps find why OSSC hate the original RGB  implementation (will try to guess as I don't have an OSSC yet).

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Any "necessary" modifications are subject to the user.  Over the years I've pretty much done it all, Composite, S-Video, Component, XGA, analog & digital audio outputs, "Intro Skip" BIOS, replacement On/Off & Reset switches, Pause button...and currently I'm running a mostly stock ADAM with it's native composite video, and a custom-built power supply (printer replacement).  More than anything else you want a console that works reliably, doesn't give graphical glitches, and doesn't overheat.  If you want to play the modern fancy games you'll need an SGM if/when available, and probably most importantly, you'll want a good controller.  If you find the stock hand controllers or SACs comfortable for long-term play, just get one refurbished/cleaned up, and you'll be all set...otherwise step up to something custom like an arcade-stick or the likes.  I'd recommend against bothering with any controller that doesn't have a built in keypad, too much hassle with wye cables, and/or 2nd controller...my 2 cents.

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2 hours ago, emmanuelf said:

How could he do better than Citrus3000psi NTSC or PAL boards ?

The integration is perfect, and the implementation simple, clean and based on the Ti reference design.

For the record all is there:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/WhLjVooT

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ogorMaoU

with the bonus:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/0hrYbjDu

 

I'm waiting an original SCART model and will try to find time to look how they did the RGB conversion and perhaps find why OSSC hate the original RGB  implementation (will try to guess as I don't have an OSSC yet).

After reverse engineering the PAL version, I'd first say to fix R25 to be 680 ohms not 680K, but otherwise you can probably use it for either case.  Why use separate versions when one works for either standard?

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My ColecoVision is 100% original although certain mods are tempting like the pause switch, better audio/video output, etc.  I treat my CV very delicately & luckily have had no issues with it other than having to fix the #1 controller port because solder had loosened which is common due to wear & tear & pulling on controller connections.  To avoid this I highly recommend using controller extension cables.  I've got things situated where I don't have to do anything but turn my CV on & off.  I use an AtariMax SD cart whenever possible so I don't have to swap carts in & out as often.  If your console works I suggest not moving it around once it's connected & to leave it in one place.  Straightening the controller cables is helpful but you can simply use extension cables for extra length.  This is better than moving the console closer and/or having the short cables pulling on the console.  Controller extension cables can always stay connected to your console controller ports & you can still use many different controllers without wear & tear on console controller ports which can break just from pushing cable into place over & over and/or cables yanking on console.  Swapping the controller disc for the ball tip helps very much as I can play longer & with less hand fatigue & it helps me control games better.  I do leave my power supply connected at both ends & I notice even when console is off the power supply is slightly warm.  I'm not sure if unplugging it when not in use would be a better habit or if it is better to leave it plugged in.  

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One more question: I'm thinking of doing the "no delay bios" mod but also saw someone selling a "dual bios" as they say some games aren't compatible with the no delay bios. Does anyone know which games don't work with the no delay bios? If the incompatible games are games I don't want anyway then I'll just go ahead as planned and save from doing the extra work.  🙂 

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One thing the original CV lacks is a light to indicate that the console is powered on. I would recommend a mod for this at least to avoid accidentally leaving the power on when not in use. Although the Super Game Module provides a light which takes care of this too. 

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On 1/31/2020 at 9:26 PM, Bobby Nelson said:

One more question: I'm thinking of doing the "no delay bios" mod but also saw someone selling a "dual bios" as they say some games aren't compatible with the no delay bios. Does anyone know which games don't work with the no delay bios? If the incompatible games are games I don't want anyway then I'll just go ahead as planned and save from doing the extra work.  🙂 

Sewer Sam is one I know doesn't work as I had one of the No Delay Bios chips in my CV and that game would lock up just as you try and start a game as I recall. Also the homebrew Risky Rick would never boot up on my CV with the No Delay Bios. I didn't test much further than that as I cut the jumper I had to put in place for the new chip and put the original bios back in the socket I installed.

 

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11 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Sewer Sam is one I know doesn't work as I had one of the No Delay Bios chips in my CV and that game would lock up just as you try and start a game as I recall. Also the homebrew Risky Rick would never boot up on my CV with the No Delay Bios. I didn't test much further than that as I cut the jumper I had to put in place for the new chip and put the original bios back in the socket I installed.

 

Thanks for that reply!!! Hey btw did you get the PM I sent you about the CV power switch?  🙂 

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