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ApolloBoy

Gotek not responsive in 1040STF

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My Gotek finally arrived and I just installed it in my 1040STF, but it seems to be completely unresponsive. The Gotek is plugged in correctly, I have the jumpers set to S0 and M0, but it refuses to load the autoboot file and just goes straight to the desktop. The floppy drive isn't even an option, it's as if it was never plugged in to begin with. The original floppy drive had a similar problem and also wouldn't stop spinning. 

 

Is there something I'm missing here or is there something faulty in my ST?

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I'm not sure it would cause a problem, but I don't believe the M0 jumper is needed. My Gotek only has one jumper installed, on S0, and it works fine in my STE and STM. I know it sounds silly, but let's start with the idiot stuff. Like snarkdluG said, the floppy cable needs to be flipped. Also, you went through the process of installing the FlashFloppy or HxC firmware, correct? Do you have another machine you can check it out on?

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The M0 jumper is not needed. Not only that, it causes problems with floppy drive detection in my experience (floppy's a: and b: mirrored). Do you have Flash Floppy installed on this? If so, do you see "F-F" on the LED screen (if that is the screen you are using)?

 

Also, you mentioned having the AUTOBOOT.HFE file in the root of the USB. Also make sure you have the HXCSDFE.CFG in there too.

Edited by eightbit

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The floppy ribbon cable need to be plugged into the Gotek with pin 1 (the red or speckled side of the floppy ribbon cable) pointing to the direction of the floppy power connector to be clear. Saying "upside down" may not be the case. For example, my housing holds the gotek board itself upside down, making the cable connection in my STe right side up :)

 

 

image.png

Edited by eightbit

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The mount that I got is made so that the Gotek board is upside down, which means that the floppy cable doesn’t need to be twisted. I’ve also tried removing the M0 jumper but that did nothing. The Gotek was pre-flashed with the FlashFloppy firmware and I have the AUTOBOOT.HFE and CFG files at the root of my USB drive. The Gotek does read the autoboot file like it’s supposed to at power on, but the track indicator never progresses and it just idles.

 

I’m now starting to wonder if maybe the WD1772 is indeed faulty. Something in the power supply blew up under a previous owner (it was repaired by someone else thank goodness) and I’m wondering if maybe that took out the floppy controller with it. I’m going to replace the PSU board with a PicoPSU soon so I won’t have to worry about any other mishaps.

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44 minutes ago, eightbit said:

 

...For example, my housing holds the gotek board itself upside down, making the cable connection in my STe right side up :)

 

Well, your pcb is upside down now so it still flipped... 😉 

 

I also got some of those 3D printed holders and they are great. But I don't think you can get a gotek with that holder already assembled? So he probably don't have that. 

 

EDIT: I stand corrected. He did! 😃

Edited by snarkdluG

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In light of everything it is probably the floppy controller sadly. But, before you jump to that conclusion I would check the floppy cable itself as one last ditch effort. Maybe check continuity of the pins. I know most of these are soldered to the board (Thanks Atari) so swapping the cable out is not as easy as it should be.

 

As for PSU replacements, the best I think is the STPSU:

 

https://centuriontech.eu/

 

It is a modern drop in replacement. Mine is on pre-order and is supposed to ship this week. 

Edited by eightbit

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21 minutes ago, ApolloBoy said:

The Gotek was pre-flashed with the FlashFloppy firmware and I have the AUTOBOOT.HFE and CFG files at the root of my USB drive. The Gotek does read the autoboot file like it’s supposed to at power on, but the track indicator never progresses and it just idles.

If comes that far I think it has something to do with the USB stick/the autoboot files. Perhaps the firmware and the files on the usb stick is of different version? It should work since you got it pre flashed.

 

EDIT: Since the PSU blew up anything could be wrong I guess

Edited by snarkdluG

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1 hour ago, eightbit said:

In light of everything it is probably the floppy controller sadly. But, before you jump to that conclusion I would check the floppy cable itself as one last ditch effort. Maybe check continuity of the pins. I know most of these are soldered to the board (Thanks Atari) so swapping the cable out is not as easy as it should be.

 

As for PSU replacements, the best I think is the STPSU:

 

https://centuriontech.eu/

 

It is a modern drop in replacement. Mine is on pre-order and is supposed to ship this week. 

I think these "remade" PSUs are far overrated. I'm sure they're great, don't get me wrong, but they're expensive and not really needed.

 

I used a Mean Well RPD-60A from Digi-Key when I converted my U.K. 1040STE to a U.S. version. It was a very easy install. It required a little modification to the mounting plate as it was a much smaller unit than the original, and it was also less than $20! If you're interested in trying it, you'd also need three of the connectors I linked to. Mine works great!

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/RPD-60A/1866-4008-ND/7706011

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2154828-2/A107461-ND/3929751

 

Here's a link to another thread here on AtariAge to the first person I'm aware of using it.

 

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/288709-adopting-two-520-ste-machines/

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It's certainly an option, but I am not sure about being "far overrated". I wanted a drop in replacement without any modification at all that looks like it was "meant to be there". Functionality and aesthetics are equally important to me. The drop in replacement I linked may be $65, but damn does it look nice when installed. One may argue that you rarely ever see the inside of the computer, but for the times that I do I like it to look great...and for the times that I do not I know in my mind that it looks great in there...haha.

 

Yeah, I am a little crazy but in a good way ;)

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34 minutes ago, eightbit said:

It's certainly an option, but I am not sure about being "far overrated". I wanted a drop in replacement without any modification at all that looks like it was "meant to be there". Functionality and aesthetics are equally important to me. The drop in replacement I linked may be $65, but damn does it look nice when installed. One may argue that you rarely ever see the inside of the computer, but for the times that I do I like it to look great...and for the times that I do not I know in my mind that it looks great in there...haha.

 

Yeah, I am a little crazy but in a good way ;)

 

I'm not quite as obsessive about things I'll rarely, if ever, see once I get my computer going well, and there's nothing I hate more than wasting my money needlessly. We all have our pet peeves and hangups though. Good luck.

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I've decided to actually try replacing the YM2149 as I'm beginning to suspect this might be a drive select problem and I was able to find a spare for dirt cheap on eBay. Failing that, I sent an email to Brad at Best Electronics for a spare WD1772 just in case it winds up being the FDC after all. 

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Quick update, I swapped out the YM2149 for a known good one and it was not at fault. I didn't really think it would fix the problem but at least I've definitively ruled something out.

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Any success with that issue? I have Atari 1024STf and I have the same problem - no icons after boot, floppy or gotek are not doing anything. Power, cable, all inductors and 7406 seems to be fine, no idea how to test WD1772.

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I’ve just ordered a replacement WD1772 so I’ll give that a try once it arrives. If that doesn’t work, then there’s probably a chance the DMA chip is shot.

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On 2/12/2020 at 7:20 PM, bfollowell said:

I think these "remade" PSUs are far overrated. I'm sure they're great, don't get me wrong, but they're expensive and not really needed.

 

I used a Mean Well RPD-60A from Digi-Key when I converted my U.K. 1040STE to a U.S. version. It was a very easy install. It required a little modification to the mounting plate as it was a much smaller unit than the original, and it was also less than $20! If you're interested in trying it, you'd also need three of the connectors I linked to. Mine works great!

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/RPD-60A/1866-4008-ND/7706011

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/2154828-2/A107461-ND/3929751

 

Here's a link to another thread here on AtariAge to the first person I'm aware of using it.

 

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/288709-adopting-two-520-ste-machines/

Interestingly the Mean Well PSU above is available in the UK too :


https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/embedded-switch-mode-power-supplies-smps/6447203/

 

For my Falcon I use an spare an oldish ATX power supply mounted externally with embedded on/off switch, imo the PSU is the most important thing when using retro computers, steady voltages and power means you are more than half way there to having your stuff last even longer...

 

 

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The new floppy controller chip finally arrived! Just finished installing it and well, the results speak for themselves. Time to load up my USB drive with floppy images!

IMG_0944.jpg

Edited by ApolloBoy

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3 hours ago, ApolloBoy said:

The new floppy controller chip finally arrived

This may solve my issue. Can you let us know where you sourced the floppy chip? The only vendor I see on eBay is in Prague, so that might be a bit of a journey in these trying times. 

 

It seems the 177x series of floppy controllers have the same pinouts, with the 1772 differing in the use of a motor-on signal on pin 20. If the Gotek isn't even using the MO signal, can (I wonder) a more readily sourced 1773 IC be used instead?

Edited by towmater

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1 hour ago, towmater said:

This may solve my issue. Can you let us know where you sourced the floppy chip? The only vendor I see on eBay is in Prague, so that might be a bit of a journey in these trying times. 

That's probably the same seller who I bought mine from. It took quite a while to get here (it shipped on March 11th and didn't get here until today), but considering the results it was worth the wait I think. I'm still surprised this fixed it to be honest, I was fully prepared to get a new DMA chip if this didn't work out.

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