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seastalker

Best and SAFE way to remove a cartridge slot from a motherboard?

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Sometimes, cleaning just isn't enough. You can try to re-tension the cartridge slot pins, but sometimes you just have to try replacing the whole pin connector.  I've seen how to do an original NES front loader.  I can even de-solder the pins on other systems, but to get the pin header off the board after the pins are free-floating post desolder, there are still those left and right holes that screws usually go through. I got one off a dead Genesis model 2, but to put it on a 32x for example is no easy feat.  I don't want to hurt 32x traces by jamming a flat heat under the plastic (nor create invisible broken traces from cracks in the fragile pcb). Is there a tool or method to get those "rivets"  out safely?  A video link is best if available. I had one a year ago but can no longer find it.  Thank you!

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I have never disassembled a 32X so I can’t be sure exactly what kind of “rivet” you’re referring to, but it is common practice to drill out real press-fit rivets on lots of hardware. Mount the board securely and then use a drill bit smaller than the rivet or connector you’re trying remove. Drill through the center, and you can usually just grab the remaining “ring” of the original rivet, squeeze and pull it out.

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Thanks as always DrVenkman, but these aren't rivets and I unintentionally used a misleading word. These aren't like drilling a model M keyboard for a bolt mod, if that isn't an analogy for a niche audience.  The pictures below show a Genesis Model 2 after desoldering and using a flat head to pry up the connector on the topside.  The Plastic pegs on the underside 'unlock' to free up the topside pin connector. Those pegs can slide down but don't fall out, nor do they by pulling. I could force them but might break them as well as would need them to apply a new pin connector.  Being a dead board, I don't mind just using it for parts. I was more liberal with the flathead, but though I did not see visible trace damage, I don't want to risk it on the 32x, which has the same pin connector, but uses the extra metal shielding in the last picture.

 

Anyone know a good tool to free up the 32x pin connector without damaging the board?

plastic peg2 - Copy.JPG

plastic pegs - Copy.JPG

genesis 2 topside - Copy.JPG

32x shield cover and Genesis 2 cartridge slot - Copy.JPG

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I'm confused - what needs to be cut?  The plastic pegs?  If so, do new replacement pin headers come with pegs?  I had assumed a new one would fit over and secure with those two pegs.  If I wasn't clear, those pegs are what is left-over after I removed the pin header on the Genesis model 2.  I can push them in or pull them as far as they will go out, and they look ready to fit a replacement header. I can live with just soldering pins and using screws without the pegs, especially when the 32x has that metal plate with four extra stabilizers.

 

Do you mean cut out the pegs to remove the 32x pin header without damaging the traces on the board?

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2 hours ago, seastalker said:

Do you mean cut out the pegs to remove the 32x pin header without damaging the traces on the board?

Yes, that is what I meant, but I'm not right there looking at it, so I could be missing something.

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18 hours ago, seastalker said:

Thanks as always DrVenkman, but these aren't rivets

plastic peg2 - Copy.JPG

Yes they are rivets.

 

They're used in Game Gears too. I've had to undo a few of those to pull the cart slots from Game Gear systems (secret project) but you don't drill them out because they usually just spin in place. You have to get a fine edged flush cutter you don't care about and work on the side that's holding the connector plastic. You compress the cutting edge under the edge of the rivet lip until you're able to remove the overhang and the rest of can then be pulled or pushed out.

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Actually, your suggestion inspired me to come up with my own remedy.  I stared at the thing, tried pushing the peg with a screwdriver, and thought I needed something smaller. Then it hit me! Soldering iron tip. If it is on, the heat might even inspire the metal a bit.  I pushed the hot solder pen from topside with a little downward pressure, and it worked like a charm! I'm not reusing the pin connector so even the little melted plastic on the connectors support holes aren't a problem- this helps to not damage your board with screwdrivers or other means of force. I highly suggest trying this method, especially starting with project and junk boards.

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