No drill 7800 UAV mod.

[chopperthedog]

Finally added a 7800 to the collection last week, was just waiting for the right CL deal. Ordered a UAV after seeing how rough the RF signal is. I've done many mods to other consoles, but the case on the 7800 really is a bugger. Knowing how brittle the plastic is and also would never be happy with jack placement, I just didn't have the heart to take a drill to this thing.

 

Had a 9v battery enclosure hanging out in the parts bin and got the idea to use that as a jack box for the unit. Held on with some VHB tape, wires route through added hole in 9v box that lines up with the 2/3 switch opening. Header pins used for vid connections on UAV and audio line is soldered, easy to fish wires back out should any future repairs be needed.

 

Someone that is savvy in the 3d print world could do a slim line box that would stick to the molding of the cable wrap on botton and have all jacks in one row. I'm just an idea guy, but really happy with the results, it's easy to hook up when needed and no drilling. 

 

The video quality is stunning with the UAV.

 

 

good day.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

Very cool idea. Actually another AA member has come up with a no cut 3D printed option. But it can only be used on cases with the expansion port currently and uses a different port setup for AV out so you have to create a cable for it to use.

 

The 7800 and 5200 by far have some of the most brittle plastic I've worked with. I use forstner bits to put the holes into the lower back part of the shell where the RF cord was to be wrapped around. I'm all for a not cut option as that reduces the work required as well!

 

BTW...how do you have your UAV actually affixed? Because I tend to keep it away from that section due to the heat of the Maria and CPU. If you don't need or plan to reuse the RF shielding, then I believe you could mount the UAV to the side or top of the RF modulator.

 

Speaking of which, you kept the RF in place, but due to how you did the audio, you will no longer have audio through the RF so be aware of that. I really need to update my guide for this, but I now add an additional 18k and 8k resistors off the south legs of R6 and R5 and then tie those resistors together to run to the audio. This way, the audio remains intact on the RF.

[chopperthedog]

Strip of double sided tape under header/pot and small piece just under the power input of UAV so the rest of board is floating above chip. Should be fine. Thought about top of RF thingy, but I did put shield back.

 

Yeah, knew I was killing the audio to RF, no biggie at all. Last and final time the RF was connected was for the PP screen shot. :p Your guide was great though.

 

 

good day.

[Bratwurst]

That looks real good, I really like the repurposed use of a battery box. Always avoid drilling or cutting original console plastic when I can help it.

[+mksmith]

Nicely done ?I've yet to finish my uav install but I was going to remove the RF modulator and feed the s-video cable right out there. I thought I could probably look to cable tie it down using the solder holes from the modulator. I ran out of solder wick and haven't got back to it as yet.

[Lendorien]

That mod looks really nice. Definitely a better option to cutting into your brittle console.

 

I have the Longhorn AV mod on mine. I did drill holes in mine, though in my case, I used Forstner bits which are a bit better option for cutting holes in plastic than regular drill bits due to how they work.