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Recommendations for paddle pot?


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I'm thinking about building a homebrew controller setup for my Atari 8-bits, and I want to put paddles on it as well.  I know that the Atari paddle controllers are 1 Mohm, but does anyone have any recommendations on which pots to get?  Since it's going into a homebrew enclosure, it doesn't need to match the physical dimensions of the original paddle controller pots.

Looking on AliExpress, I can find lots of different 1 Mohm linear pots.  I assume that I would want ones that are not too stiff, yet don't spin too easily either.  Is there a torque spec that I should look at?

 

Suggestions?

 
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I'd always hoped for a combination stick/paddle/driving controller... all in one... possibly with switch to choose what's what... now that they are implementing extra buttons, like booster stick on 2600, and other such extra button schema... that would be awesome to include as well :)

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2 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:

I'd always hoped for a combination stick/paddle/driving controller... all in one... possibly with switch to choose what's what... now that they are implementing extra buttons, like booster stick on 2600, and other such extra button schema... that would be awesome to include as well :)

There's always this odd monstrosity, I've yet to click the buy button, anybody try it?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-Premium-Gamepad-not-machine-specific/dp/B08227NQ3Z/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=hyperkin+atari+controller&qid=1588717790&sr=8-1

 

image.thumb.png.573b10ab9d43e25b654dd7f1af7f90cd.png

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You used to be able to go to Radio Shack for 1 Meg pots.  Well, that's gone now.  Any of the electronics parts stores have them (Jameco, etc.).   Usually, those there is a min order.  Of course Brad @ Best Electronics has sourced a new supply of exact-fit-spec'd pots.  Of course there is a min $50 (or so) purchase requirement.  I would trust Brad's new pots.  Just remember, keep the order short and to the point.

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I've read that some people like to use lower POT values since most games don't use the full range (or is it that Pokey doesn't use the full range?).  This gives them more control/precision since it would take a greater rotation to give the same change in resistance.

 

I saw these "double pots" on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000103174858.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7b1876a2c1WUvq&algo_pvid=a8cf9ae7-9378-4938-879d-aaa9cfe518c2&algo_expid=a8cf9ae7-9378-4938-879d-aaa9cfe518c2-15&btsid=0be3764315887904443725673e48e3&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

I was thinking that I could use one of these with a switch to connect the two pots together in parallel.  That way, I could have a 0-1Mohm standard pot, or connect them to get a 0-500KOhm range.  Maybe add a bias resistor in series to move it up a bit, say 250K to get 250K-750K?  Or a bias pot to dial it in?  Or, dial it in with a pot, then use the value determined with a discrete resistor?

 

Anyway, what do you think?

 

 

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I purchase pots for my old TV Games (Pong type consoles), when I'm refurbishing the controllers.  I treat pots as a consumable item so I keep a few on hand.  If cared for they last for many years.

 

I'll add that the spec I'm looking for is B1M (aka 1MB), so its linear (B) and rated at 1mega ohms (1M), as mentioned.

 

I have also used lower rated pots at 500 Kilo ohms for a larger spread of movement for precision, however I should add that it then means more hand movement is required (and wrist movement is limited), so see if it works for you on a comfort basis.  You gain some precision but lose a little speed in reaction.

 

I'll also add that you'll see pots for sale have other measurements in their spec which is very important, you'll see two images below one is 16mm and the other 24mm.  This is for the shaft length and you need this to mate with the knob you plan, so plan your measurements.  There are also two types of connectors for the attaching knobs as per the images attached, so please also note the shaft diameter (6mm is the most common I use) so you can match the knob.  I hope anyone looking for a replacement Atari compatible pot will see they want a 24mm shaft and are able to identify the connector correctly as below.

 

When buying cheap grade pots I find they can have sticky movement much like an old pot, oil helps to get them working smooth.  Also there may be protruding lugs, you can drill a hole to accomodate, or file them off.

16mm.jpg

24mm.jpg

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Thanks for the info.

Since I'm building my own setup and not replacing the pots in the Atari paddles, I don't need to keep the same shaft.  Which reminds me, "That Shaft is a bad mother...."?

 

My general idea is to basically make an arcade control panel that has a Left & Right joystick, a pair of paddles, a pair of driving controllers, and some number of buttons.  There would have to be some switches to toggle between the joysticks & driving controllers, and to switch the fire buttons between the joysticks (trigger) and the paddles (left & right stick).  Or maybe separate paddle buttons, which would be useful for discrete Left & Right buttons?  Maybe have all four directions as discrete buttons?

 

I'm thinking the joysticks on the left & right of the panel, with two buttons each (one to the upper left & one to the upper right of stick, switchable between being mirrored and being second button - Actually, thinking more about it, maybe two buttons on each side since it would be awkward to hit the secondary button on the other side of the stick, and I want to make the joysticks righty/lefty agnostic), and the pair of paddles inboard of the joysticks, and then maybe the four stick direction buttons in the center (which would put the paddle triggers just inside the paddle knobs).  There would be two joystick cables coming out, with the first cable running everything except for the second joystick & it's buttons.  I'm not sure where to put the driving controllers.  Maybe below the joysticks?  Maybe rig them to the joysticks themselves?

 

Anyway, this is what I am thinking about going with for the paddles, which would have a switch to flip between 1Mohm and 500Kohm.  If my idea of running these dual pots in parallel doesn't work, I can just hook them up as a single pot.

Hd717c281ecf84046958dbdbc0f68daefW.jpg

2

 

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That's one big super massive table top controller you're planning.

 

I had briefly considered a dual 1M ohm and 500K ohm set up, seeing as you'll have a switch to select, then you can simplify, instead your switch selects a fixed (750K ohm) resistor in parrallel across the connectors on a 1M ohm pot to give you a 428K ohm maximum resistance value (500K ohm appx).  Another option is to replace the fixed resistor with with another pot (750K ohm) which can be placed out of the way like on the back (of your super massive table top controller) to act as a trimmer pot so you can adjust for the degree of movement you desire.  The figures I've given are examples, and I would expect you to check with your own calculations to confirm your requirements if you decided on this option.

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On 5/5/2020 at 2:55 PM, _The Doctor__ said:

I'd always hoped for a combination stick/paddle/driving controller... all in one... possibly with switch to choose what's what... now that they are implementing extra buttons, like booster stick on 2600, and other such extra button schema... that would be awesome to include as well :)

The "Kitchen Sink" board here https://atari8bit.net/multifire-3-button-atari-joysticks/ will allow you make one of those, just add controls and a box ;) , it has space for 3 independent fire buttons (one of them switchable between up and fire3), 2 flippers, 1 joystick, 2 paddles, 1 driving controller and switches to enable/disable them all... per joystick port.

 

 

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On 5/7/2020 at 11:52 AM, StickJock said:

Thanks for the info.

Since I'm building my own setup and not replacing the pots in the Atari paddles, I don't need to keep the same shaft.  Which reminds me, "That Shaft is a bad mother...."?

 

If you need a more accurate knob this might help https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21854

and If you are using a different shaft, the knob from this might be a better choice but it might need some editing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3824311

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