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Atari Portable Project


selgus

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43 minutes ago, pseudografx said:

Since I like doing useless things, I also tried a bit of an XE design for the UI.

obrazek.thumb.png.5886f5d818355a905a99d5e40416970a.png

 

Nice! Though I can't use anything like this for the BIOS. The screens are designed in a very specific way, to make use of a custom character set, using a bare minimum number of cells, DLIs to change the icon background colors at the right scanlines (the icons have been changed to have 7 instead of 6 now), and P/M Graphics to do the actual icons, in double size mode, and to draw the non-ANTIC mode 2 text colors.

 

I do like the style, just doesn't fit into the ROM memory constraints I devoted to doing the display functionality.

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10 hours ago, selgus said:

Nice! Though I can't use anything like this for the BIOS. The screens are designed in a very specific way, to make use of a custom character set, using a bare minimum number of cells, DLIs to change the icon background colors at the right scanlines (the icons have been changed to have 7 instead of 6 now), and P/M Graphics to do the actual icons, in double size mode, and to draw the non-ANTIC mode 2 text colors.

 

I do like the style, just doesn't fit into the ROM memory constraints I devoted to doing the display functionality.

Oh, I see, I did not bear any size constraints in mind for that design. Though from technical standpoint, it should be feasible.

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On 6/1/2021 at 6:29 PM, pseudografx said:

Oh, I see, I did not bear any size constraints in mind for that design. Though from technical standpoint, it should be feasible.

Oh sure, if I wanted to spend the ROM space to reproduce that "look", technically I could.. it is just ROM space is at a premium and I've taken great pains to claw back space from the original XEGS ROM image, to add functionality.

 

I did take influence from your original paint-over of my title on the UI, and revisited my title character set, using the image I created for my PCB, redrawing the cells. By doing so, I was able to remove 6 cells (48-bytes), so it was a win. Thanks for the nudge. :)

 

atari-bios-menu-config-v2.png.1ea65c847180e54943e997f1f3cf97e2.png

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On 5/12/2020 at 12:24 AM, rockdoc2010 said:

I broke one of these out by hand and it is a direct replacement for an atari joystick with all the same numbers across the screen when under test. might be good for your application

 

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9032

Douglas

here is the boards but i dont have the schematic and as you can see the second stick is not attached and it appears as though my wiring is wrong for the second stick but the first stick works great

IMG_0347.jpg

IMG_0346.jpg

IMG_0345.jpg

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On 6/7/2021 at 8:05 PM, rockdoc2010 said:

here is the boards but i dont have the schematic and as you can see the second stick is not attached and it appears as though my wiring is wrong for the second stick but the first stick works great

Those joysticks use two potentiometers, so you are using it as an analog stick? My built-in joystick is a digital input, though I could create a circuit to convert the variable resistor values into digital outputs for the joystick registers.

 

Interesting, but my solution works fine and is more representative of the original hardware.

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This is the 67xep's BIOS UI. The cursor keys and joystick 1 allow navigation through the menus, and once selected, options can be modified or executed.

 

The built-in Disk Directory menu is something I wrote to allow FAT32 partitions on the CompactFlash card to be utilized to set drive contents (via ATR files, which are supported) and launching executables.

 

I also wrote a built-in mini-monitor, with memory views, disassembly and breakpoint support.

 

There is also a status line at the bottom of the display, that will show basic help and output, when appropriate for the current menu. It also doubles as a command line (if you press ESC) where you can type commands and jump right to that menu item.

 

atari-bios-menu-sheet.thumb.png.bc7a4d88fb5a9588e57682136f4e6118.png

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20 hours ago, ivop said:

This how did it once in an experiment:

Okay, fair enough. I've built up a PCB that can interchange with my current joystick, that extends the connector by one more pin (adding +5V), and once I get the board back, I'll test it in my portable. Thanks!

 

atari67xePortable-joystick-r3.thumb.png.bab2524f5ced2032c208788b6e5f85a7.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
44 minutes ago, rockdoc2010 said:

I am still misunderstanding why you think this is a digital stick? The one I got from Sparkfun broke out to every correct output for every direction pressed.?

A "Mouse" is digital a joystick is analog resistance values.?

 

It's not a digital stick, it's an analog stick that is being treated as a digital stick, via the resistors.

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Bought a new soldering station about 2 weeks ago and I can't say enough great things about it! I have always been using Weller irons, but this one has made my soldering experiences more enjoyable:

 

weller.thumb.png.24750c3f271dc5be292431a4760b66fa.png

 

It has two channels that can be controlled independently, so I have a desoldering tweezers, along with the micro-soldering iron that came with this set. I also bought a beefier iron when I need to apply a lot of heat. The WPT 90 iron is extremely light and heats up almost instantaneously. The drawback, it is not a cheap station, but for how much soldering I do, I feel it was worth it. I don't know how long lasting this model is, but my previous Wellers have really been work horses.

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Finally got some 3D printed thumbstick ATARI joystick caps for the analog-to-digital sticks done.. also created a harness so I can use them as a normal joystick on any ATARI (or as the second joystick). Now with this slight derailment behind me, back to the portable enclosure build..

 

thumbstick-full.thumb.jpg.007e622a9932455fcb5804b870134ec1.jpg

 

EDIT: @Mr Robot asked what material I used on the thumbstick cap, and it is currently Nylon 12 and pretty solid, so not flexible. I am going to try a print with TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) and see how that works too. I just don't want to get too distracted on the cap, so I can concentrate on the enclosure. :)  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Test print of the sliding display enclosure.. need to round off some of the edges, and have to adjust some of the tolerances for the LCD holders/indents.. but proof of concept seems to be a success.

 

 display-parts.thumb.jpg.a96e48a9c1de8030f4dae2942bba2429.jpg

 

display-case.thumb.jpg.93db3a811feac426133750403fd100d5.jpg

 

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More enclosure 3D modeling work.. first, made some revisions of the LCD Display module, which will slide up and down on the main case.

 

Next, finished modeling most of the enclosure.. still have one set of walls left to do, but want to do test prints of these other parts and install my motherboard, to check on all the openings/clearances..

 

First, the bottom layer (all these layers have screw posts/braces, to attach them together), which holds the lipo battery and then the motherboard on top of that:

 

bottom.thumb.png.5fac0c43858ad8332bf4fd8b83ea3c1f.png

 

Next, is the middle layer, which the keyboard installs onto, along with the thumb-stick PCB/joystick:

 

middle.thumb.png.ae952a73028cc9538cf3947d58bf3d23.png

 

Lastly, the top layer, which has rails and locking clips for the sliding display, the thumb-stick and fire button openings, along with attachments for the fire button PCB and the speaker:

 

top.thumb.png.941a1487aea3461bf782546f7838eaa0.png

 

These are much larger prints, so it will take a bit of time to get them completed, so I can assemble and test them all together. Progress!

 

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Still waiting on some of the test prints, but got the bottom prototype print, and was able to install the motherboard PCB, so could figure out some final dimensions/fittings..

 

case-bottom.thumb.jpg.37174b276a4c709227d0130817f6045c.jpg

 

Reworked the port openings (had also forgotten to model the LCD cable channel), some rounding off edges, mounting screw sizes, redesigned the joystick thumb-stick PCB, so it could also be mounted in the upper section of the case (as opposed to how it mounted on the middle, keyboard layer). While redesigning the joystick PCB, made it so it could take both, digital tactile switches and the PS2-style analog thumb-stick.. just depends on how you populate the PCB.

 

When I can check the test prints for the other two sections, I think I will be able to print up the final case design..

 

case.thumb.png.0a94792bf98d69646cc6ee908f1bb898.png

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35 minutes ago, Mathy said:

Speaker?  As in MONO?  Why not make it stereo while you're at it?

Hi Mathy,

 

As in a second POKEY, to make it stereo? Don't really have the PCB space to do so, plus not really what I was going for with this project.

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Hello Selgus

 

26 minutes ago, selgus said:

As in a second POKEY, to make it stereo? Don't really have the PCB space to do so, plus not really what I was going for with this project.

 

PokeyMax is no bigger than one Pokey and IIRC the Pokey-Upgrade Candle is working on isn't either.  Maybe you could make the case "stereo ready" (reserve some space for a second speaker) or maybe even supply "two speaker mono sound" (using only one Pokey), so people who want to upgrade to stereo, can do so easily.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy

 

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30 minutes ago, Mathy said:

HPokeyMax is no bigger than one Pokey and IIRC the Pokey-Upgrade Candle is working on isn't either.  Maybe you could make the case "stereo ready" (reserve some space for a second speaker) or maybe even supply "two speaker mono sound" (using only one Pokey), so people who want to upgrade to stereo, can do so easily.

I gave it a go, to see what I could do to add a second speaker to the left-side upper section too.. the thumb-stick overlaps. So I attempted to move the thumb-stick up until I could mount both the speaker and stick, my that moves the thumb-stick too high on the case, and seems like it would be awkward to use while playing games. It was a good idea, but just doesn't fit with the form-factor I have currently.

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