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Happy 1050 ROM Dumps


TGB1718

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39 minutes ago, ijor said:

That is pretty common in original Happy drives. I had more than one original Happy with this symptom.

 

And to be honest, I'm not sure why this happens, never investigated the issue.  At the time I thought it could be that sometimes it "wakes up" at the wrong ROM bank. But now that we know the ROM well enough, it is ready to power up in either bank without problems. May be it only happens in older models with 6K ram chips, I'm not sure. It is certainly not an issue of old or corrupt rom.

Ok. Yeah I thought I remembered it doing this back in the 80’s. So strange. It has a mind of its own. Sometimes it’s working perfectly power cycle after power cycle.

Edited by sideburn
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I bought a new/old stock Happy board from B & C back in 2012 (expensive... like $150). Installed it and it wasn't working (can't remember the symptoms now, though). Reseated the Toshiba chip (maybe cleaned the contacts with contacts cleaner too) and it worked fine after that. Maybe your symptoms are different than mine were though...

 

1612584236_1050Happy.thumb.png.b3075e29607f6a5dd2fdbf41750c043e.png

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/4/2023 at 10:00 AM, MrFish said:

I bought a new/old stock Happy board from B & C back in 2012 (expensive... like $150). Installed it and it wasn't working (can't remember the symptoms now, though). Reseated the Toshiba chip (maybe cleaned the contacts with contacts cleaner too) and it worked fine after that. Maybe your symptoms are different than mine were though...

 

1612584236_1050Happy.thumb.png.b3075e29607f6a5dd2fdbf41750c043e.png

 

 

Thats a newer version with the single RAM Mine has 3 and I swapped them all out but no change.

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2 hours ago, sideburn said:

Thats a newer version with the single RAM Mine has 3 and I swapped them all out but no change.

Yeah, I saw yours had a different RAM chip configuration -- but same board revision. That's why I posted a picture of my board: so you could see there was a difference.

 

I would think less chips less potential for issues. Maybe check/reflow the solder points.

 

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28 minutes ago, MrFish said:

Yeah, I saw yours had a different RAM chip configuration -- but same board revision. That's why I posted a picture of my board: so you could see there was a difference.

 

I would think less chips less potential for issues. Maybe check/reflow the solder points.

 

It’s so weird. I’m just living with it. I just powered it on and it was dead. Turned it off. Wait 10 secs turn back on. Nothing. Do that about 5 times and it’s back in business. Other times it spins up on first power on. Totally random. Only thing I can think of is temperature but heat gun and freeze spray don’t seem to make a difference. And apparently this is common with the Happy 1050 and I think I remember it acting like this back in the 80s. 

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On 3/4/2023 at 1:00 PM, MrFish said:

I bought a new/old stock Happy board from B & C back in 2012 (expensive... like $150).

Now that I think about it again, I'm pretty sure it was $125, not $150. Still expensive, at that time (and even now), compared with something like an Atarimax Happy.

 

[Edit]

It looks like Atarimax Happy upgrades are even cheaper than they used to be (or at least not any more than they were in 2012): Atarimax Happy 1050

 

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2 hours ago, MrFish said:

Now that I think about it again, I'm pretty sure it was $125, not $150. Still expensive, at that time (and even now), compared with something like an Atarimax Happy.

 

[Edit]

It looks like Atarimax Happy upgrades are even cheaper than they used to be (or at least not any more than they were in 2012): Atarimax Happy 1050

 

For me it’s just a nostalgia thing. This is my original drive and happy upgrade I bought when I was a 16 year old software pirate 😂 today I only really use it for the extra speed and even then I really don’t need it since I have Unocarts and an SDrive-max. I use the 1050 to salvage my programs and stuff I wrote back in the day  off my old barely hanging on floppies. 

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2 hours ago, MrFish said:

I guess another thought would be to try it out in another 1050, if you have one.

[Not sure if someone else already suggested this; I haven't read the whole thread yet.]

 

Yes I could try that. Right now I’m playing with my eprom burner annyway and was hoping I could use the 1050 to test it out as well as troubleshoot the drives issue. I guess the ROM is a 2732x. As for the stock ROM I’m struggling to find out which rev of the ROM images to use to try that out as well. 

Edited by sideburn
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7 minutes ago, guus.assmann said:

Hello,

 

Sorry. you're so right. (And I'm getting rusty 😞  )

The original Eprom (or Rom) is only 4k x 8. And that's a 2732.

 

BR/

Guus

All good. I’m just as guilty for not noticing the pin count. And I’m even more rusty since I haven’t programmed an EPROM since 1990. I’ve ordered some 2732’s

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1 hour ago, sideburn said:

All good. I’m just as guilty for not noticing the pin count. And I’m even more rusty since I haven’t programmed an EPROM since 1990. I’ve ordered some 2732’s

I just found out that you can easily use a 2764 to replace a 2732 by duplicating the 4KB data into the upper bank. Then connect pins 1,2,26,27 & 28 together and orientate into the socket with pin 3 to pin 1 of the socket and the corresponding pin 26 to the socket pin 24 which is VCC 5V. All the other pins then line up with the correct signals. You do need enough room for the overhang but I just tried it successfully with a US Doubler.

 

image.thumb.png.de31447ed797611c38396d655543c523.png

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5 hours ago, TZJB said:

I just found out that you can easily use a 2764 to replace a 2732 by duplicating the 4KB data into the upper bank. Then connect pins 1,2,26,27 & 28 together and orientate into the socket with pin 3 to pin 1 of the socket and the corresponding pin 26 to the socket pin 24 which is VCC 5V. All the other pins then line up with the correct signals. You do need enough room for the overhang but I just tried it successfully with a US Doubler.

 

image.thumb.png.de31447ed797611c38396d655543c523.png

Wow. I would not know where to begin without some visuals. Did you edit then binary in an editor and did you have to change settings on the programmer?

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5 hours ago, TZJB said:

I just found out that you can easily use a 2764 to replace a 2732 by duplicating the 4KB data into the upper bank. Then connect pins 1,2,26,27 & 28 together and orientate into the socket with pin 3 to pin 1 of the socket and the corresponding pin 26 to the socket pin 24 which is VCC 5V. All the other pins then line up with the correct signals. You do need enough room for the overhang but I just tried it successfully with a US Doubler.

 

image.thumb.png.de31447ed797611c38396d655543c523.png

I've always liked this diagram that shows just how pin compatible all of the 27xxx EPROMs are: 

 

2532 Eprom Pinout

 

 

Edited by JR>
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11 hours ago, sideburn said:

Wow. I would not know where to begin without some visuals. Did you edit then binary in an editor and did you have to change settings on the programmer?

Yes you can just duplicate the first bank 0000-0FFF and copy it to the second 1000-1FFF which is what I did. I first tried it in the latest XGPRO v12.50 for a TL866II plus programmer. Just set the programmer for a 2764 and load the 4K file. Then load it again, but disable the clear buffer default option and load it from file start position 0000 to buffer start position 1000. Now you have a complete 8KB file.

 

Alternatively I successfully used HxD Hex Editor from https://mh-nexus.de/en/ and loaded the 2732 4KB image, then also loaded a 2764 8KB image in order to over-write it by copying the 4KB image and pasting into the 8K image twice!

 

Save the image and load into the programmer software.

Edited by TZJB
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