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Atari Jaguar Repair Help Needed


Cheese007

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I have a Jaguar that was the victim of an NES power supply and the resulting explosion was so violent it stuck the IC to the board, damaging the PCB when it was removed. My question is if this is at all repairable? I've attached a pic where you can see where part of the PCB came up with the IC in the top left. I have the parts handy, just not the skills or equipment to do a proper repair. Only paid $10 for the unit so won't be out a whole lot if it's toast, but willing to spend a fair bit to get it up and running

20200523_200109.jpg

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Its repairable (if the damage to the board does not mean the pads are gone that is):

 

 

 

I still find it amazing how many people just plug in power supplies because they "fit" without checking polarity. Not a dig on you so don't take it that way, but I can't tell you how many things I have had to repair because people think if it fits its going to work.

 

Edited by eightbit
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3 minutes ago, eightbit said:

I still find it amazing how many people just plug in power supplies because they "fit" without checking polarity. Not a dig on you so don't take it that way, but I can't tell you how many things I have had to repair because people think if it fits its going to work.

 

Oh none taken. I wasn't the one who blew it up lol. The pads themselves are not in anything resembling good shape but there's ways around that if one is willing to scrape back some of the silkscreen. My concern is the little metal bit on the top left that's come off the board

Edited by Cheese007
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Yeah, that is very bad. I don;t think that chip just "blew off" of the board. I think someone was in there without soldering skills and removed it very poorly. It looks like that lifted "piece of metal" is a cluster of pads that were fused together from some extremely high heat. I honestly don;t know if that can be fixed at all...

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In the case of what has been shown here, it should be possible to get a small breakout type board of the right pin count to install a new U38 regulator to it and then that breakout board would have normal vias on it to run wires from the board to the next component in line the original traces attached to. Could do the same on the actual PCB as well, but you would have more room to work using a breakout board to mount the chip to.

 

Additionally, the two Caps near that chip will also likely have to be replaced as well. And don't be shocked after that is done, that you find you might not have any audio or it is very very low. That is because REG1 (power regulator for the audio section) is downstream of U38 and usually burns out as well. Although that regulator can be bypassed easily and +5 sourced from other places on the board to get the audio section back up.

 

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This is like the happiest ending to a story ever. On a related note- how difficult is it to learn how to do this type of repair? I have dozens of old machines and have no idea how to fix anything if one of them goes. 

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15 hours ago, Kal said:

This is like the happiest ending to a story ever. On a related note- how difficult is it to learn how to do this type of repair? I have dozens of old machines and have no idea how to fix anything if one of them goes. 

Its not terribly difficult. If you are willing to learn. Just start out with some cheap scrap electronics. Best advise dont cheap out on your tools. Dont go crazy buying the absolute best because you wont get a return on investments but also dont buy the cheapest. Start with a good reviewed variable heat setting solder station. Get good flux and good solder. Kester is my go to Flux and Solder brands. A good starter soldering station you can find regularly for about $20 is the Stahl. I have one that has over 5000 hours on it and used on all types of projects. I mainly use it for training or when i'm doing a job that I cant access on my work bench. Its not my main soldering station but its one that I can recommend from experience. Once you get the to ropes with everything then you can step up. The biggest mistake I see newbies doing is not properly caring for their tips. Learn to keep your tip clean and treat it like queen and you should have zero issues for a very long time. 

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On 5/25/2020 at 10:44 AM, Kal said:

On a related note- how difficult is it to learn how to do this type of repair?

Building on oakcitycomics reply, I have not looked but I'm sure there are plenty of videos around on soldering and desolating so you may want to watch a few of each before you start. Although surface mount devices like those used in the Jaguar are not always easy without the right equipment even for experienced solders/solderers.

 

When looking to repair something there are a few things you have to consider before you begin...

1) How likely is it you can get it operating again?

2) Is it cost effective to do so?

3) Can the damaged component(s) be replaced in their original position or is the PCB so badly damaged that they need to be sited elsewhere and wired to? 

 

I do not know how oakcitycomics is intending to repair the Jag, maybe it looks worse than it is but if I were doing it I would certainly be entertaining -^CrossBow^-' option of using a SO to DIP/DIL adaptor PCB to mount the new regulator, attaching that somewhere and then wiring out from there.  

I am not sure how much of that damage was done by the original fault as opposed to your removal of the IC but from your description of a violent explosion I would probably start with bypassing the regulator and wiring in a regulated 5V supply to check the Jag still works. Hopefully, it will as most of the damage appears to be to the input side of the device but if it has extended beyond that it may  be terminal which is why I personally would check it was otherwise working first. 

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4 hours ago, Stephen Moss said:

Building on oakcitycomics reply, I have not looked but I'm sure there are plenty of videos around on soldering and desolating so you may want to watch a few of each before you start. Although surface mount devices like those used in the Jaguar are not always easy without the right equipment even for experienced solders/solderers.

 

When looking to repair something there are a few things you have to consider before you begin...

1) How likely is it you can get it operating again?

2) Is it cost effective to do so?

3) Can the damaged component(s) be replaced in their original position or is the PCB so badly damaged that they need to be sited elsewhere and wired to? 

 

I do not know how oakcitycomics is intending to repair the Jag, maybe it looks worse than it is but if I were doing it I would certainly be entertaining -^CrossBow^-' option of using a SO to DIP/DIL adaptor PCB to mount the new regulator, attaching that somewhere and then wiring out from there.  

I am not sure how much of that damage was done by the original fault as opposed to your removal of the IC but from your description of a violent explosion I would probably start with bypassing the regulator and wiring in a regulated 5V supply to check the Jag still works. Hopefully, it will as most of the damage appears to be to the input side of the device but if it has extended beyond that it may  be terminal which is why I personally would check it was otherwise working first. 

Yes going off the photos of U38 the new chip will have to  be installed off board. I've not put eyes on the actual board in person but from this photo its looking like several pin traces have been pulled off the board. I know some hobbyist like use super glue then place them back. Bad Bad idea. I cringe when I see people do that 

image.thumb.png.958938a63277b4d4315ca7f1cd66bac9.png

Edited by oakcitycomics
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On 5/26/2020 at 3:20 AM, Stephen Moss said:

I have not looked but I'm sure there are plenty of videos around on soldering and desolating so you may want to watch a few of each before you start.

Indeed.  I just ventured into this stuff myself, and I did a fair bit of searching around on youtube.  In the end, I found this 3-part series to be the most helpful:

 

 

I enjoy that blog in general as well.  Very positive and encouraging.  I ended up getting a Weller WE 1010 soldering iron myself, and though I have no reference, it seems solid.  The choice was between that and the Hakko FX-888d for me, and from what I've gathered, you can't really go wrong either way with those two for an iron in the ~$100 price range.

 

Also, as someone who's worked primarily in software, I find soldering stuff and working on simple hardware tasks immensely satisfying. Repairs and new creations more so, but even just working on some practice boards from Amazon is very relaxing in the same way I assume working on things like adult coloring books or painting miniatures is for others: It requires your full attention, but isn't mentally difficult, so it's somewhat meditative.  I've really enjoyed learning this stuff, and the Jaguar is a great setting to do it in.

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  • 1 month later...

 

On 5/26/2020 at 10:26 AM, oakcitycomics said:

Yes going off the photos of U38 the new chip will have to  be installed off board. I've not put eyes on the actual board in person but from this photo its looking like several pin traces have been pulled off the board. I know some hobbyist like use super glue then place them back. Bad Bad idea. I cringe when I see people do that 

image.thumb.png.958938a63277b4d4315ca7f1cd66bac9.png

Just a quick update on this. The traces here were in fact torn from the board all the way to the via. Several other traces for pin 1,2,3 were also complete destroyed. But happy to say, the board is repaired and on its way back to Cheese007

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