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first time mcwill install issue I think I was a bone head


tijuanamidas

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Post some close up pics of where you soldered all the wiring too as some of us here that have a done a few of these, might be able to see something you've missed. Always good to have a second or more set of eyes.

 

 

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2 things that I can see given this is a single ASIC board:

 

One is that you don't need the white Csync wire unless you are using the VGA you don't wire up the Csync. The instructions really don't make this that clear but if you read it carefully you will note it says !!! If you DON'T want to install the VGA connector, you can leave the BACKLIGHT wire! Otherwise solder 1 wire from BACKLIGHT of the GG mod to PIN2 of the thumbwheel and 1 wire from CSync of the GG mod to T2 of the GG PCB.

 

The part that says "Otherwise..." means you are using the VGA connector in which case you wire in the backlight wire and the CSync wire. So again, that isn't needed. You can also remove that orange wire you have attached off the backlight pad on the McWill since again these two wires are only if you are using the VGA. 

 

Second thing I noticed...

 

Where is the wire you have off FB1 actually going? Because that should be connected to Clk_32mhz point off the McWill PCB.

 

I looked and it does appear you have the wiring from the LCD section wired up to the McWill correctly. 

 

Few notes to make things easier. Capacitor 1 to the lower left of the cartridge port is a filtering cap for the power. As such, you can grab your +5 off the + lead pad from that cap. Much closer and easier to solder to vs the LCD +5 pin on the opposite side of the board. As for the ground, well all of the solder anchor points you use to hold the screen in place? Yeah...those are part of the main ground plane and you can use any of them for your ground.

 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...

I realize this is a few months old now, but I've been doing a lot of these recently. It couldn't hurt to make sure the wires soldered to the LCD connector aren't bridging with any of their adjacent pads. Pad 9 looks like it might possibly connect with one of its adjacent pads, checking all 6 of the pads (using a multimeter set to resistance with a terminal on both pads is an easy way to check, it shouldn't be 0 unless they're bridged) with their adjacent pads wouldn't hurt. I also had one GG which required swapping out the xtal/oscillator in order to work, but that system had issues to begin with.

Do you get sound from an inserted game? That'd at least let you know if the GG is doing anything. If it's just the display then check connectivity between the McWill board and all of the pads they're soldered to on the mainboard to make sure they're good. Presumably you've also recapped the board, those definitely aren't the original caps. You might want to make sure all the new caps are good too if you have access to an ESR and/or LC meter.

Edited by nyandeyanen
clarification
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