Atari VCS left Joystick port issue

[Evanlor]

Hello Everyone,

I am brand - new to fixing electronics, specifically Atari VCS boards.  I’ve had some success and some abject failures, so I thought I’d as the community before ruining another one. 
 

I have a 2600 VCS where the left joystick port does not register an “up” signal from the controller.  For example, no thrust in Asteroids. 
 

The solder joints look OK, but before I reflow or even replace the part, if the joints ARE ok, what else could this be?   Any recommendations of the order in which I should try things to repair the issue? 
 

Thanks everyone!

Evan

[+Stephen Moss]

First, if you have not already come across them you might want to check out the console and controller schematics available here.

Second, the most likely problem is with the controller itself, i.e. a broken pad, pin or wire in the cable, if it is not a controller issue then the problem will be with the 6532 RIOT chip.

Third, if you have another controller try that, if Up works it it probably the controller, otherwise it it probably the RIOT, if you do not have a second controller select a two player version and see if all direction controls work, if Up is still not working then it could still be the RIOT but is probably the controller.

Fourth, as I recall someone posted the official 2600 field service manual, try using the search facility (top right corner) as that might help, also the issue of controller directions not work has come up many times, do a search for that as well, the problem solving method for one direction (i.e. Left) is the same as the others (Up, Down & Right) so even if the post mentions a different direction it should still be useful in helping you track down the fault, you just need to transpose any relevant controller and RIOT pin numbers mentioned to those appropriate for the left controller Up. 

Fifth, if you do not have access to a multi-meter or logic probe for measuring pin voltages you will need one as it is difficult to come to a definitive answer without being able to perform those checks. 

 

Edited June 23, 2020 by Stephen Moss

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[Evanlor]

21 hours ago, Stephen Moss said:

First, if you have not already come across them you might want to check out the console and controller schematics available here.

Second, the most likely problem is with the controller itself, i.e. a broken pad, pin or wire in the cable, if it is not a controller issue then the problem will be with the 6532 RIOT chip.

Third, if you have another controller try that, if Up works it it probably the controller, otherwise it it probably the RIOT, if you do not have a second controller select a two player version and see if all direction controls work, if Up is still not working then it could still be the RIOT but is probably the controller.

Fourth, as I recall someone posted the official 2600 field service manual, try using the search facility (top right corner) as that might help, also the issue of controller directions not work has come up many times, do a search for that as well, the problem solving method for one direction (i.e. Left) is the same as the others (Up, Down & Right) so even if the post mentions a different direction it should still be useful in helping you track down the fault, you just need to transpose any relevant controller and RIOT pin numbers mentioned to those appropriate for the left controller Up. 

Fifth, if you do not have access to a multi-meter or logic probe for measuring pin voltages you will need one as it is difficult to come to a definitive answer without being able to perform those checks. 

 

WOW, this is FANTASTIC - thank you!  I may have a spare RIOT chip, so I'll start by replacing it.  I did check the other controller port and it works perfectly, and I did use a working joystick on both ports and the problem persisted with the left joystick port, so it is not the actual joystick that is the problem.  I'll search the forums per your suggestions.

 

I don't have a logic probe but do have a multi-meter that I HATE as its numbers just jump all over the place.  I think its mostly for larger electrical work.  Can you recommend a brand/model for both of those?  Again, thank you for all of the help.  

Evan

[+Stephen Moss]

I cannot imagine there are many multi-meter out there that would not work, you just need one that is 3 and a half digits that measure resistance and DC Voltage, 20V is a typical range value, so if you have it set to that you should get a fairly stable reading unless the voltage is fluctuating a lot or your meter has a low, 2000 count is typical and I would not get one lower and that, 4000 count will give better resolution but cost more. After that is just a matter of what features you want and what your budget is as all should to DC Current, DC Voltage and resistance which is pretty much all you need from something like the 2600.

Capactiance might occasionally be useful, frequency less so as on a 2600 it can only be used to check the clock oscillator is working to specs, you won't need True RMS.

I recently purchased a AstroAI DM6000AR for uses at home which seems to be OK so far although has much more features that you will need and the autoshut off is a little annoying as it appears to shut off after 15 minutes regardless of activity (maybe I have a duff one) but is a third of the price of a similar one I have at work.

 

There are lots of options for logic probes, you could build your own from the instructions here, alternatively there are plenty of diagrams on line such as this, although for 5 volts change the resistors to 330 Ohm, you could even simply it by removing IC and connecting the probe to the directly to the point between the two resistors although if you did that Green would indicate High and Red would indicate low. Mount you circuit on a small piece or prototyping/strip board so that you can hold the assembled circuit and probe points of the circuit with it.

Alternatively the Laser 5263, Logic Tester LP1 and the Bilinli 5V 3.3V Logic Tester Pen all of which are available from Amazon UK should work, Amazon.COM equivalents are this, this and this. Yu may be able to find some cheaper ones somewhere like ebay, and the 5V 3.3V pen it looks like you will need to buy some small test hook to go on the end of the power leads

[Evanlor]

5 hours ago, Stephen Moss said:

I cannot imagine there are many multi-meter out there that would not work, you just need one that is 3 and a half digits that measure resistance and DC Voltage, 20V is a typical range value, so if you have it set to that you should get a fairly stable reading unless the voltage is fluctuating a lot or your meter has a low, 2000 count is typical and I would not get one lower and that, 4000 count will give better resolution but cost more. After that is just a matter of what features you want and what your budget is as all should to DC Current, DC Voltage and resistance which is pretty much all you need from something like the 2600.

Capactiance might occasionally be useful, frequency less so as on a 2600 it can only be used to check the clock oscillator is working to specs, you won't need True RMS.

I recently purchased a AstroAI DM6000AR for uses at home which seems to be OK so far although has much more features that you will need and the autoshut off is a little annoying as it appears to shut off after 15 minutes regardless of activity (maybe I have a duff one) but is a third of the price of a similar one I have at work.

 

There are lots of options for logic probes, you could build your own from the instructions here, alternatively there are plenty of diagrams on line such as this, although for 5 volts change the resistors to 330 Ohm, you could even simply it by removing IC and connecting the probe to the directly to the point between the two resistors although if you did that Green would indicate High and Red would indicate low. Mount you circuit on a small piece or prototyping/strip board so that you can hold the assembled circuit and probe points of the circuit with it.

Alternatively the Laser 5263, Logic Tester LP1 and the Bilinli 5V 3.3V Logic Tester Pen all of which are available from Amazon UK should work, Amazon.COM equivalents are this, this and this. Yu may be able to find some cheaper ones somewhere like ebay, and the 5V 3.3V pen it looks like you will need to buy some small test hook to go on the end of the power leads

Brilliant - thank you again!

I've really enjoyed learning small electronics, and the Atari is kind of a perfect way for a beginner such as myself to do so.

Again, thank you very very much.

Evan