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Speech syn for beige TI-99/4a

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5 hours ago, twoodland said:

Drool... Nice!!! Looks great!  

 

 

Thanks, but it'll look even more nice when he sends those two sidecars!

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A little science experiment using weird_w's files from earlier in this thread and a few small mods.  Don't laugh.  Still some clean up to do.  The top is modified using a mesh modifier (looks like vents) and a TI "coin" added.  Thanks weird_w!

Tipi-Speech-3D 03.jpg

Tipi-Speech-3D 01.jpg

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Print speed a little high?

 

What color are you going to fill the letters with?  (You can get titanium dioxide white pigment powder, which would make 2 part epoxy opaque white. Then you could fill the letters and shape profile lines with that, and it would stand out bright.  Alternatively, you could fill with aluminium powder, then polish the surface afterward to get a metalic fill.)

Edited by wierd_w

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2 minutes ago, wierd_w said:

Print speed a little high?

 

What color are you going to fill the letters with?  (You can get titanium dioxide white pigment powder, which would make 2 part epoxy opaque white. Then you could fill the letters and shape profile lines with that, and it would stand out bright.  Alternatively, you could fill with aluminium powder, then polish the surface afterward to get a metalic fill.)

They look a lot better in person.  This is Hatchbox black PLA that is super glossy and doesn't photograph well.  They were printed at .2 layer height and faster than it probably deserves.  Tried a few different settings but the area around the letters is always a little rough and Speech Synthesizer isn't as deep as the TIPI one.  But I still like them.

 

Have to look into that color fill idea.  Thanks.

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The lettering was made kinda deep to be backfilled in that manner.  Use crystal clear 2 part epoxy, and some kind of opaque pigment powder.  Dob the recess full, allow to cure, then sand it flush.

 

 

Also, since I have invested tremendous amounts of time with sanding (and experiments with sanding)-- Really, don't sand with anything rougher than 400 grit to start, then work through 600, 1000, 2000, and then 3000 grit papers.  You will get something that rivals injection mold plastic, in terms of shine.

 

Edited by wierd_w
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In case anyone who doesn't know 3d printing reads this thread, and to clear up my comments, these are awesome designs by weird_w.  My pictures above were two I made with my printer on lower resolution to save time ('cause I'm impatient).  To do these right you need 2-3 DAYS with detailed reolution.  I printed them in 6-9 HOURS (for the top portions).  I will probably try the more detailed print of the TIPI version eventually.  I did go a little crazy and add vents and logos as part of the experiment.  Those are just me trying weird settings to see how they looked.  FYI the door works!  Which is pretty cool.

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1 hour ago, grayin99 said:

In case anyone who doesn't know 3d printing reads this thread, and to clear up my comments, these are awesome designs by weird_w. 

 

Agreed they look pretty good for a 3D print once they are all sanded up and shiny.  Sadly I was unable to use the TIPI case due to an unanticipated PCB interference issue.  Maybe when I feel better I'll put the Dremel to good use.

 

2074283945_BeigeSpeech.thumb.JPG.0be52d47ae80368aa7c35efb53504f5b.JPG

 

 

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3 minutes ago, HOME AUTOMATION said:

I have legs! I can walk!:lol:

Yeah, I had to use two sets of feet to raise it high enough.  Honestly though that's not really an issue for me.  This is a way better match than having a black and silver one plugged into the side.

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I performed a little Dremel action this evening and took the bottom back end down to the lattice to make room for the IC chip on the bottom part.  I also had to make a small notch in the left hand side back of the bottom and remove a little bit of plastic from around the post.  I then added some tape to insulate the post so it would not come into contact with the IC chip.

 

I will be getting some black feet for the bottom of the cases, but I'll set them back about an inch from the front so they are not visible.  On the whole I'm pleased to see these hit the community.  After a few kinks are worked out I think people are going to love them!  I know I'm happy with these trial units.

 

666137032_SSTIPI-32K.thumb.jpg.6e4aa5798dbe7fb1ef3d297342bc2d80.jpg

 

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Let me know what kind of rubber stripping you get. 

 

As-is, it looks like I need to consider moving the back post back a good 2mm in addition to the thick notch I took out of it, for the TIPI+32K car.  That chip really is very inconveniently placed.

 

(And you really need a bigger display Omega. you are gonna get myopia looking at that tiny little thing.)

Edited by wierd_w

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4 minutes ago, wierd_w said:

Let me know what kind of rubber stripping you get. 

 

As-is, it looks like I need to consider moving the back post back a good 2mm in addition to the thick notch I took out of it, for the TIPI+32K car.  That chip really is very inconveniently placed.

 

Will do on the stripping!  Yes, both top and bottom IC chips were a little problematic, but it's still a work in progress, so that is to be expected.  Great work though and in the end they both went together.  I've had fun tonight, although I have to admit I got a little side tracked playing Road Hunter there for a bit.

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I am glad you are happy with them;  I tend to be too critical of my own work, especially when I do a project for somebody else. (Own worst critic, et al.) I insist on as close to perfection as is possible when the work is for somebody else. (For my own needs, as long as it holds the hardware I am happy. Duct tape and bailing wire is fine. :))

 

If you can, give me a guestimate on how deep you made the recess for that chip.

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If I were to guesstimate, I'd say about 4mm and I also removed the post on the right hand side (that was not being used for anything) and took out all of that shelf except for about 3mm next to the port.

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That little cutout you made for the RPI will come in really handy!  In the next day or two I'll open everything back up and disconnect the power lead from the TIPI and start using a wall-wart, that way I will not have to "HALT" the TIPI everytime I'm done using the computer to turn it off.

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It may need to be widened;  Not sure if it will fit all arbitrary USB cables.  If you make adjustments, let me know.

 

Also, I take it you had no real issues fitting the speech+shield?  I was able to fit the hardware I had on hand when doing the design, so I presume it just dropped right in?  (Having hardware to test fitting with resolves nearly all of these kinds of snags.)

Edited by wierd_w

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7 minutes ago, wierd_w said:

It may need to be widened;  Not sure if it will fit all arbitrary USB cables.  If you make adjustments, let me know.

 

Also, I take it you had no real issues fitting the speech+shield?  I was able to fit the hardware I had on hand when doing the design, so I presume it just dropped right in?  (Having hardware to test fitting with resolves nearly all of these kinds of snags.)

 

I removed the shielding on the Speech Synthesizer.

As for widening the hole, I'll let you know, considering how thick the wall is, it might be necessary.

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I have a bad habit of over-engineering things, but then again, I like things to stand up to (ab)use.  Thin walls tend to not favor such things, especially with 3D prints.  There's plenty of meat there to take some hits.

 

Port cover?  Should be doable...

Edited by wierd_w
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38 minutes ago, wierd_w said:

(And you really need a bigger display Omega. you are gonna get myopia looking at that tiny little thing.)

 

Yeah, this is a temporary measure, but until then....

 

1104388306_GOTITCOVERED.thumb.JPG.0549756a135d26c8ddbc8c72442be08a.JPG    😉

 

 

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I got some stick-on rubber feet (bumpers) for the side cars today...

 

BUMPERS.thumb.JPG.a7406cff0ecd4c3d3485d115669bb8cc.JPG  These were under $4.00 at Home Depot

 

When you update the final design, I would recommend putting four 1 inch flat square mounting spots on the bottom, because...

 

 

ATTACHED.thumb.JPG.0a277b5f4f218155fbf0ad732c35a3d5.JPG ... where I had to mount then does not give full adhesion.

 

Still, it looks better now than with the feet showing.

 

BETTER.thumb.JPG.ad29db2189607543e717e2102ed8ebe9.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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