2600 heavy sixer - tool for RF adjustment?

[TapperP]

Hey all,

 

I just received a heavy sixer. It's in nice shape, and I get a good RF picture but the sound is just pure static fuzz. Not even any game sounds detectable under the static.

 

From what I read, I need to adjust the RF pot in the little metal box on the lower right. I do see a hole on either side, but no tool I tried seems to take.

 

I have seen references to an allen wrench, but again nothing I have fits. I have also seen reference to a "Ramsey RF tool" but since RadioShack of old is no more, could not find any specific info.

 

Can anyone please tell me exactly what tool I need to adjust the RF? Thanks.

[ChildOfCv]

The audio adjustment is the red tower outside of the box.  Does it look like it has a complete ferrite core inside with a hex head?

 

Also, if you're getting no sound at all, it could be that the transistor near that red tower is dead.

 

Anyway, you can buy a set of plastic RF alignment tools on Amazon.

Edited July 6, 2020 by ChildOfCv

[TapperP]

Here are photos of the inside of this 2600.

 

 

Is this the hole? It kinda looks dark orange.

 

Or this one? I saw video of someone adjusting here for RF.

[ChildOfCv]

The one that looks dark orange

[TapperP]

OK, I don't think I have the right tools to do it. I will have to do some shopping.

 

I found some info that I need a 0.075 hex tool, plastic or fiber glass only.

 

EDIT: this kit has a 0.078 hex tool, closest I can find.

 

 

Edited July 6, 2020 by TapperP

[TapperP]

The kit arrived, but these plastic tools are worthless. The 2mm one that seems to fit can't generate enough torque to actually turn anything, plus the design of this 2600 inside is such that the cartridge overhangs where the dark orange hole is.

 

I'm a total novice with all this, so I really need some help here guys. I know nothing about repairing electronics.

 

I'm thinking a 2mm *metal* allen wrench might be able to turn the "ferrite core" thing, but I would have to order one. Plus people say not to use metal, but I've seen videos using metal so... I'm kinda lost and confused.

 

UPDATE: here is a short video demonstrating the sound problem. There are no game sounds heard, only constant static fuzz noise.

UPDATE 2: the video doesn't seem to be showing an image but the sound is playing. The image is a decent RF picture though, only the sound is bad.

Edited July 8, 2020 by TapperP
add video

[ChildOfCv]

1 hour ago, TapperP said:

The kit arrived, but these plastic tools are worthless. The 2mm one that seems to fit can't generate enough torque to actually turn anything, plus the design of this 2600 inside is such that the cartridge overhangs where the dark orange hole is.

 

I'm a total novice with all this, so I really need some help here guys. I know nothing about repairing electronics.

 

I'm thinking a 2mm *metal* allen wrench might be able to turn the "ferrite core" thing, but I would have to order one. Plus people say not to use metal, but I've seen videos using metal so... I'm kinda lost and confused.

The problem with metal tools is that they change the properties of the coil while they are near it so you can't trust the setting while the tool is making the adjustment, and the ferrite slug that you're trying to adjust is quite brittle and crumbly, so a metal tool risks destroying it.

 

What do you mean that you can't generate enough torque?  The slug should turn smoothly.  If it doesn't, then the chances are that some neanderthal with a stone hammer got to it before you did.

 

And since you're attempting to adjust the sound to the picture, you don't need a cartridge in.  Just turn it on and turn the screw until the static stops.

Edited July 8, 2020 by ChildOfCv

[+DrVenkman]

My suggestion at this point is to remove the main RF shield and take a look at the board itself. 2600's are pretty simple all things considered. You might see some physical damage on the board like a the base of the RF coil being broken off the board or something. Under the shield, the main board should look like this:

 

 

[TapperP]

Thank you both. I will work on it more later.

 

Is the "ferrite slug" the round dark orange part or the smaller hole below it? What I mean is - which part should I be trying to turn?

Edited July 8, 2020 by TapperP

[ChildOfCv]

1 hour ago, TapperP said:

Thank you both. I will work on it more later.

 

Is the "ferrite slug" the round dark orange part or the smaller hole below it? What I mean is - which part should I be trying to turn?

The slug is like a set screw that turns within the plastic piece.  It moves up and down as you turn it.  It's a dark grey color and has a hex shaped hole in the middle for the tool.

[+DrVenkman]

Beware though - as mentioned above, the core is fragile and will either crack or break wires internally if you force it or turn it too far.

 

Now that said, there are other things that might be wrong up to and including damage to the console TIA chip or the RF modulator, where audio and video are combined into a single RF signal to send to the TV. So if you adjust the RF coil without any obvious effect, chances are that it’s not the actual problem.

[TapperP]

Would an AV mod completely bypass this issue? I'm thinking of having that done anyway.

[ChildOfCv]

If the problem is in the audio modulator, then yes.  If the problem is TIA outputting trash, then no.  But since the audio sounds like static, I'm guessing it's the modulator.

[TapperP]

So I opened it up and examined the motherboard. To my very non-expert eyes it looks very clean and nice, with nothing looking broken or leaking.

 

I tried turning the ferrite core again using the plastic tool, and visually confirmed that it is indeed rotating inside. There was no perceivable effect on the RF output, either sound or video.

 

At this point, I really just wanna play some old games. So, I'm considering buying an AV modded light sixer I found for $110 shipped, and switching the guts because I'm very nostalgiac about the heavy sixer case and I have one in beautiful condition.

 

From the research I've done I think that's the simplest and most cost effective solution for me, since I do want an AV mod at some point and from the research I've done AV mod service would cost me anywhere from $65 - $100 plus shipping costs back and forth.

 

Stupid idea, or reasonable considering my situation?

Edited July 9, 2020 by TapperP

[+DrVenkman]

Well if it were me I’d get my Heavy fixed. If you see the photo I posted above, you’ll see a silver capacitor just below - those are known to go bad and cause lost or distorted sound. If you have no electronics tools or knowledge, there are plenty of people around the world who can likely fix your problem.

 

Now, if you’re determined to replace the guts, bear in mind two things: first, even a stock Light Sixer might need to have your Heavy case modded to accommodate the channel select switch, which isn’t present on a Heavy. Second, if you buy an A/V modded Light Sixer, you will definitely need to both mod the Heavy case to accommodate the A/V jacks, but you’ll also likely need some soldering tools to desolder or otherwise cut the wires between the A/V jacks and the Light Sixer board, then transplant them into the Heavy. 

So in other words, it won’t be just a remove/replace job that only requires a screwdriver. 

[TapperP]

As always, I appreciate your advice. I won't do the system switch.

 

I'm also angry with the ebay seller who sold me this heavy sixer as "working great" and then ignored me when I asked about the sound not working. The case is in really nice condition. That's the only thing that has stopped me from sending it back.

 

Maybe someone around here can fix it...

 

Edited July 10, 2020 by TapperP

[hizzy]

1 hour ago, TapperP said:

As always, I appreciate your advice. I won't do the system switch.

 

I'm also angry with the ebay seller who sold me this heavy sixer as "working great" and then ignored me when I asked about the sound not working. The case is in really nice condition. That's the only thing that has stopped me from sending it back.

 

Maybe someone around here can fix it...

 

Are you in the States? If so, there are a few options.

[TapperP]

39 minutes ago, hizzy said:

Are you in the States? If so, there are a few options.

Yes, I'm in NC. I contacted electronicsentimentalities last week but did not get a reply, so not sure he is currently doing business.

[TapperP]

Conclusion reached: the seller I bought this one from on ebay has a return for refund policy with free return shipping, so it's going back. Meanwhile, I bought another heavy sixer from another seller on ebay that arrived today, and it is working perfectly and looks just as nice or better. So, I'm very happy about that. Thanks to everyone who tried to help me with this problem.

 

 

[hizzy]

I hope you post photos of the new sixer!

[TapperP]

4 hours ago, hizzy said:

I hope you post photos of the new sixer!

Sure, thanks for asking. 🙂 I love taking photos of vintage gaming stuff.

 

I thoroughly cleaned both of these systems, so I thought it would be interesting to show the condition of the PCB's. The "old" one with non-working sound seems to have been a victim of spilled soda or something. The "new" one is very clean.

 

 

Here is my new heavy sixer having a threesome with my 800 and 130XE. 😛

 

 

And here are a few shots of my new girl by herself, looking all shiny clean and pretty. Note: my wife fully endorses my hobby. 😃

 

 

 

[+wongojack]

On 7/9/2020 at 5:26 PM, TapperP said:

So I opened it up and examined the motherboard. To my very non-expert eyes it looks very clean and nice, with nothing looking broken or leaking.

 

I tried turning the ferrite core again using the plastic tool, and visually confirmed that it is indeed rotating inside. There was no perceivable effect on the RF output, either sound or video.

 

At this point, I really just wanna play some old games. So, I'm considering buying an AV modded light sixer I found for $110 shipped, and switching the guts because I'm very nostalgiac about the heavy sixer case and I have one in beautiful condition.

 

From the research I've done I think that's the simplest and most cost effective solution for me, since I do want an AV mod at some point and from the research I've done AV mod service would cost me anywhere from $65 - $100 plus shipping costs back and forth.

 

Stupid idea, or reasonable considering my situation?

Hey, I was just thinking that I would like to have one of those plastic tools to adjust the ferrite core.  Now that you've moved on to a new unit, if you would like to recoup what you paid for the tool, I'll send you a few $$ to put it in the mail to me.  PM if interested.