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Calling 3D Modelers


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Salutations all. I just got a 3D printer and am looking forward to using it with the community. If any 3D Modelers have something they want printed please send me your STL file and I will print it up and send to you. Shipping and filament cost only.

 

On top of that .. does anyone feel like taking a swing at a "Double Wide Speech Synth Case" for modelling? (To accommodate the TIPI/32k and Speech Synth?) I really don't have the time the learn 3d modelling as fast as I would like to.

 

Thank you kindly in advance.

 

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

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40 minutes ago, Mehridian Sanders said:

On a side note found my old 10" Acer Aspire One. Which will run the slicer program with 1g of DDR3. Might just run it right off that.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Congrats on the 3D printer purchase.  I also took the plunge and bought one a couple of months ago.  Which one did you get?

 

 

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On 7/30/2020 at 9:42 PM, Mehridian Sanders said:

I picked up the Creality Ender Pro 3 .. good price for a starter

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

Still a good choice.  I did find the Creality slicer program to be lacking some.  I ended up using Ultimaker Cura for all my prints so far.  

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Still a good choice.  I did find the Creality slicer program to be lacking some.  I ended up using Ultimaker Cura for all my prints so far.  
I opened the advanced menu in slicer, and thought I was reading Cyrillic. Gonna have to teach myself this 3d modelling hoodoo sometime lol


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I use Cura as well. 

 

One thing I kinda want to try some day, is to print some "channels" in the back of some copper-clad perfboard for making a clean wire-wrap style circuit card.

 

(Basically, components go on one side, wires on the other.  The side that gets the wires gets 3D printed on, to create "retention channels" to hold the wires in place, neat and tidy.)

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  • 3 months later...

I would like to start this with a fun pattern I found...  the 2020 Dumpster Fire...

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648427

 

But seriously, one of the patterns I've wanted to do for a while was this Archon set, which the link is currently down...

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:187973

 

Does anyone have this pattern saved?

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I recently did some plumbing repair, and was "very pleased" by how well PVC adhesive sticks pipe together.  For a solvent weld, it does an amazing job.

 

So, I wondered if you could PVC filament.

 

Turns out, YOU CAN.

 

 

I am seriously contemplating ordering some of the black, then doing some tests with PVC pipe glue.  It could make for interesting builds that are not easy to accomplish otherwise.

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13 hours ago, doctorclu said:

I would like to start this with a fun pattern I found...  the 2020 Dumpster Fire...

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648427

 

But seriously, one of the patterns I've wanted to do for a while was this Archon set, which the link is currently down...

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:187973

 

Does anyone have this pattern saved?

Go to the second tab--you can download each of the thing files individually from there. I just did that about five minutes ago. The zip with all of them in it seems to have issues. . .

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On 7/29/2020 at 2:56 PM, Mehridian Sanders said:

On top of that .. does anyone feel like taking a swing at a "Double Wide Speech Synth Case" for modelling? (To accommodate the TIPI/32k and Speech Synth?) I really don't have the time the learn 3d modelling as fast as I would like to.

Tinkercad is a very approachable way to get started in 3D design: https://www.tinkercad.com/

 

You add or subtract geometric shapes.  Definitely give it a try.

 

Somewhat more advanced is OpenSCAD, a parametric design tool.  It is somewhat like programming.  https://www.openscad.org/

 

Both of these are free to use.

 

At the other end of the spectrum, more powerful and difficult to learn, are the full-featured "professional" CAD programs.

Edited by BillG
Added link for OpenSCAD
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On 11/28/2020 at 10:11 PM, Ksarul said:

Go to the second tab--you can download each of the thing files individually from there. I just did that about five minutes ago. The zip with all of them in it seems to have issues. . .

 

That is so cool, thanks for the tip.  Hopefully will print them soon.

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  • 1 year later...

Just got a printer and am really having problems with supports - esp ones that are hidden...  Easy to remove external supports, but how are you guys removing internal supports?  For example, in this model:
 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2021930

 

There's a gap that needs cleared out in this picture:

image.png.b995aeecd803944e16e3f270eb34e7e3.png

 

Thanks for any help...  Youtube makes it easy to find some simple/obvious things, but not this.

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for troublesome supports, I will model a support I am "happier with" directly in the model, and leave a small air gap so that the support acts a little like a raft.  the amount of air gap depends on the layer height you intend to use. It should be between 2 and 3 layers of air gap.  This allows the plastic in the nozzle to still make contact with the surface, but it does not "spread" like a normal layer, and makes only very weak contact. It is sufficient to supply support for subsequent layers, which WILL stick together, but the weak contact with the support lets the support snap off/pop off.  I usually only bake-in supports like that, if there are features that I absolutely must not have material generated inside of-- deep holes, or living hinges, for example.

 

Some slicers will allow you to set this kind of air gap yourself with the autogenerated supports.  I think the latest version of Cura supports this, but it is an experimental (eg, hidden-- you have to turn it on manually) option.

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012612779-Support-settings

 

 

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, wierd_w said:

for troublesome supports, I will model a support I am "happier with" directly in the model, and leave a small air gap so that the support acts a little like a raft.  the amount of air gap depends on the layer height you intend to use. It should be between 2 and 3 layers of air gap.  This allows the plastic in the nozzle to still make contact with the surface, but it does not "spread" like a normal layer, and makes only very weak contact. It is sufficient to supply support for subsequent layers, which WILL stick together, but the weak contact with the support lets the support snap off/pop off.  I usually only bake-in supports like that, if there are features that I absolutely must not have material generated inside of-- deep holes, or living hinges, for example.

 

Some slicers will allow you to set this kind of air gap yourself with the autogenerated supports.  I think the latest version of Cura supports this, but it is an experimental (eg, hidden-- you have to turn it on manually) option.

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012612779-Support-settings

Thank you...  I've got a lot to learn here..  Not making my own stuff, yet...

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