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newtmonkey

General upscaler thread

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Cute 2X Mini ... for what I had to do it could have been a better option for me but given I bought a 2X-M ...

 

I just realized I really have no vintage consoles (anything pre Dreamcast) with Component cables and neither I want to buy such cables (they are not exactly cheap) but I do have Scart cables for a bunch of them (SMS, Genesis, Saturn, AES, NGCD, Jaguar and can easily find it even for PS2 but no need as I do have component cables for it, unfortunately my GC has no digital-out but SVideo works great on it).

 

In light of so many Scart enabled consoles I was torn between the RetroTink-2X Scart and a cheaper RetroTink RGB2Comp so I went for the second given I already have a RetroTink-2X-Multi (and the latest firmware enables pseudo-444 on 480p as well as pass-thru 720p and somewhat a 1080i ["ish" https://www.retrotink.com/post/retrotink-2x-pro-multiformat-firmware-page ] to really cover all component cable consoles I have from PS2, to XBOX to Wii).

With a little bit of luck I may be able to sit the RGB2Comp just in front of the 2X-M, from the pictures it appears the connectors are reversed on purpose  (meaning RLYPbPr on 2X-M match PrPbYLR on RGB2Comp) and if the holes line up I can just use cheap male RCA couplers and "mate" the 2 RetroTink in an unholy orgy of retrogoodness, at worst instead I need a 5 RCA cable between the 2 ... we shall see.

 

36c4ce_c559910818774e0fbaa249a36e57c91e~36c4ce_db9419b643a14b19818dd27011846f36~

 

 

 

I am not sure it was the right choice yet, at 30US$ more the RetroTink-2X Scart seems a solid solution for Scart enabled consoles, at the same time if it works I may get the best of both worlds and save me 30US$.

 

 

I find it hard to understand why the RetroTink-2X Pro or 2X-M don't have direct support for Scart .... component cables for old consoles are actually much rarer than Scart due to EU that mandated it over there! Anyways .... at 200US$ total for 2X-M + RGB2Comp it ain't exactly cheap!!!

 

 

Wrt to the 2X-mini it may work wonders for the plug-n-play novelties of yesteryears that were composite through and through ... if one likes them that is, I have a small collection around (about 7 or 8 of them total) and they do work fine on the 2X-M, but at basically half the price the 2X-mini seems to be the perfect choice for most composite/SVideo consoles (the site does call out Genesis and some PSOne as having non-std composite and can make the RetroTink-2X take a hike with them so caveat emptor).

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I mentioned uploading these quite a while ago but got sidetracked with work... but here are some off-screen screenshots taken of the Sega Saturn upscaled to 720p through the Framemeister, connected to a 4K TV.  The Saturn is connected to the Framemeister using an SCART RGB cable.

 

The Framemeister is basically set to the default values for everything, with some tweaks in the color settings.

 

ASL.jpg

Assault Suit Leynos 2.  This is a bit of a 2D tour-de-force with tons of sprites scaling in and out all over the place (though not in this screenshot sadly!).

 

TSS.jpg

Twinkle Star Sprites.  This shot is a bit dark because I took it during the day.  I was just going through my collection game by game and liked the title screen here in particular.  One thing the Saturn has over the Playstation is nice solid colors; this is because the majority of PSX games use hardware dithering (even 2D games for some reason), which is especially noticeable on flat screens (or even when using RGB on a CRT!).

 

CB.jpg

Cotton Boomerang.  This shot is also a bit dark because I took it during the day.  Very fun hori shooter with some fantastic 2D art.

 

Note that the aspect ratio is slightly wide in my photos because of how I had to crop the images.  Also, the images are overall sort of saturated just due to taking photos off the screen.

 

The Framemeister really works wonders with consoles that support RGB natively.  One great thing about it is how easy it is to use, as the default settings are (mostly) fine for the most typical use scenario (240p games).  The only settings that one really needs to pay attention to are "IMAGE_MODE" (480i="NATURAL", 240P="PICTURE") and "AUTO_SCALER" (480i="VIDEO", 240P="GAME").

 

One very nice feature of the Framemeister is how it "just works" when it comes to scaling—you never have to worry about issues caused by uneven scaling.  This means you can either tweak the image to be pixel perfect (with black borders on all edges), or can just use the default settings and let the Framemeister fill the display with no messy scaling artifacts.  It even has an option that automatically stretches the image horizontally ("SCREEN_SET" - NORMAL2) for an aspect ratio much closer to that which you would see on a CRT.

 

The only setting that is somewhat annoying is "A/D_SET".  I've found that the automatic setting hardly ever works right at all (it typically sets it WAY TOO HIGH).  Setting A/D too low will result in a "weak" washed out image, while too high of a setting will oversaturate the image and crush color detail.  The only way to set it reliably is to bring up a calibration pattern.  This pattern can luckily be found in the 240p test suite that's available for many (but not all) consoles.  The Saturn, sadly, does not have a port of the test suite, but this was one of the few consoles in my experience where the auto A/D setting seems to have worked decently enough.

Edited by newtmonkey
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Next up, some Dreamcast shots.  The DC supports both 480i/480p and 240p and the image quality over RGB is pretty much perfect for both.

Again, these are taken directly off the screen of a 4K TV using a cellphone camera, so they don't 100% represent how everything looks in person.  However, you can get an idea of how nicely the FM handles both 240p and 480i (especially with the DC which offers truly excellent image quality).

 

The settings for the following shots are:

[480i] SCART RGB -> Framemeister 1080p

[240p] SCART RGB -> Framemeister 720p

 

So why am I sticking with 480i?  First, I don't have a DC VGA box that works.  Second, the FM is notoriously poor at handling 480p, but notoriously good at deinterlacing 480i.

 

SA.jpg

Sonic Adventure

(I like how scanlines look in 480i games, but I understand most people prefer them turned off, since scanlines really aren't that noticeable on a real CRT at 480i.)

 

You generally want to upscale 480i/480p sources to 1080p to get a nice integer scale with black borders around the image (i.e. 960p).  With the FM, you want to set the "SCREEN_SET" setting to "SMARTx2" to ensure the image is scaled correctly (as detailed here: http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=Dreamcast).

 

Now some 240p games:

LB.jpg

Last Blade

 

GB.jpg

Gunbird 2

 

Configuring the FM for 240p on the DC is simple; like usual, just use the default settings and ensure that "IMAGE_MODE" is set to "PICTURE" and "AUTO_SCALER" is set to "GAME".  You can set "SCREEN_SET" to "NORMAL2" (as in the photos above) if you prefer a proper CRT-like aspect ratio (like me) over a pixel-perfect scale.  Whether you scale 240p to 1080p or 720p is a personal preference, but 720p ensures that scanlines will look correct and imo provides a more "CRT-like" look.  On a 4K TV, it also provides a full-screen image as it's integer scaling all the way from the console to the TV (240->720->2160).

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Received my RGB2COMP from RetroTink and the RCA females line up perfectly, so ordered 5 RCA M-M coupler for 6US$ to "mate" it with the 2X-M and "add" Scart support to it ... but yeah at a combined price of 200US$ is not cheap.

 

Hopefully it works out well.

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So I got Akumajou Dracula X for the Saturn today and my monitor HATES the interlaced menu + OSSC combination so much that it refuses to display the menu at all. This is not a problem with the interlaced main menu in Thunder Force V, which displays just fine through the OSSC (although it does display in 16:9, which is obviously not correct, but it's just the main menu, so it's not a problem, really), so it seems it's something to do with Dracula X's menu. I'll either have to play this game on my CRT, never open the menu, or maybe pass the signal through the OSSC and into the Framemeister. How annoying.

Edited by Steven Pendleton

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If you have an Xbox One, passing the signal through that might help as I am sure the Framemeister will probably introduce some lag (though I can't seem to find any solid numbers when it is just passing though a digital signal).

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They mated:

 

RetroTink-Mating.thumb.jpg.0657916479e667bec30173be2451511a.jpg

 

Scart goes in, HDMI comes out, the bottom of the 2 plastic enclosures are perfectly aligned, they thought this one through!!!

I ordered an Amiga Scart cable for my CD32, let's see how this turns out.

My other consoles + Scart cables are a little harder to reach due to covid wfh arrangements, they were in tupperware that now forms the "legs" of my "desk" (5 per side) .... I really want 2020 to end.

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I finally tried my Japanese PS3 today, and I am happy to say that it runs absolutely silently and is in excellent condition, so I really don't have a need for my Japanese PS2 anymore at all since I can play my Japanese PS2 games on the Japanese PS3 with its wonderful deinterlacing. I'm not getting rid of the Framemeister, as it's generally extremely useful, especially since it's the only way I can use my MSX2+ and Dreamcast on my monitor at this time.

 

Still, I am somewhat curious about the current best option for interlaced games, as it's still useful information to have.

Edited by Steven Pendleton
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FYI, in snooping around the shmups forum, it appears the OSSC Pro may well weigh in at $500 USD.  🤢🤢

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Does anyone have any decent custom scanline setting suggestions for the OSSC? I haven't been able to find something that is satisfying. Although I usually use 3x, any multiplication is fine except for 5x since that mode doesn't work on my monitor.

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I haven't posted in here for a while, but I am having an annoying issue with my RetroTink 2X Pro. For some reason, my Sega Genesises (Genesii?) are not outputting sound through the 2X Pro via composite A/V cables. I have tried my Model 1, Model 2 by itself, and my Model 2 with the Sega CD attached. I have tried different cables as well, but to no avail. Other consoles, like my NES via component, work fine. I also updated the firmware, but that didn't help. Not sure what else to do here. 

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